And, if there’s one thing I’ve learned, it is that sharp tools make all the difference. Indeed, getting into the habit of cleaning and sharpening pruning shears every few weeks is transformative (plus, it is what all the pro gardeners do on a regular basis).

There are plenty of sharpening tools out there, but the Okatsune sharpening stone for pruners, available via Amazon, is one that stands out – and the reviews prove it. So, before you bin your old loppers or secateurs, why not give them a second chance... you might be surprised by the result.

What are people saying about the Okatsune sharpening stone?

Many gardeners are impressed with the utility of this product. Several Amazon reviews highlight how effective this Okatsune sharpening stone is, working even on older, neglected essential pruning tools and rusty tools.

One five-star review in March 2025 stated that: 'The length makes it perfect for angular and corner usage.'

Another five-star review from July 2024 said: 'It's slender, so you can hold it in your hand and sharpen quickly; it feels moist and is easy to use even for beginners.'

Other reviews mention not only how simple this essential gardening tool is, but also how it can be used for a range of pruners, including loppers, shears, secateurs and scissors.

However, one three-star review, recorded in May 2025, commented that while it is effective, 'this whetstone is quite soft, so it wears out quickly.'

Some other reviews agreed, mentioning the softness of the stone, with indentations and marking visible, wondering how long it will last for.

So, while the reviews are overwhelmingly positive, it is important to consider that this sharpening stone might not last forever, suffering from wear and tear, gradually losing effectiveness as you sharpen your tools.

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How to use a sharpening stone

Using a sharpening stone is incredibly easy. To begin, it is crucial to learn how to clean pruning shears and secateurs, using soapy warm water. Then, dry thoroughly, using an old rag from the garden shed.

Holding the pruners steady, run the stone along the bevelled edge of the blade.

I always suggest following the curve and the angle of the blade, in a swooping motion, using smooth, even strokes, working from base to tip.

Depending on the state of your blades, five or so passes might do it. Although if you blades are in a poor quality, you might need to keep going for a minute or so.

Then, when you are happy, flip and lightly buff the flat side to remove any uneven bits or burrs.

A word of caution. Do not touch the sharpened blade. It will be incredible sharp, and can cause harm even with a light touch.

Finally, wipe clean with a damp rag. Then, I tend to dab a small amount of camellia oil, available from Amazon, lightly over the blades, to lubricate and protect steel blades from rusting.

So, whether you are pruning ninebark or pruning red twig dogwoods, or anything else for that matter, taking the time to sharpen your tools can really make this a far easier (and more enjoyable) experience.

For more garden maintenance information, see our guide on how to prevent pruning shears from rusting, and keep your tools in tip-top shape this year.

It opens up doors to cultivating watermelons in smaller urban spaces. While growing watermelons vertically requires planning and attention, it saves on space, helps keep plants healthy, and even potentially increases harvests.

If you want to grow watermelons in small vegetable gardens, we are here to help. I spoke to some experienced growers to reveal the tips and tricks you need to know to grow watermelons vertically successfully.

Can you grow watermelon vertically?

Yes, you can certainly grow watermelons vertically in small gardens, raised beds, or even large containers. It takes some degree of skill to grow crops in a vertical garden, but when you get it right, there are tangible benefits to doing so.

Not only does it save space, but the improved air circulation reduces the risk of fungal diseases, and increased exposure to the sun helps to ripen the fruits.

Finally, as the fruits are off the ground, there is a lower risk of pests nibbling them. So, when you pick a watermelon, the fruit is more likely to be blemish-free.

1. Pick a smaller variety

Watermelons are known as weighty fruits. While you can theoretically grow any type of watermelon vertically, you make life a lot easier for yourself by picking smaller varieties to do so with.

‘Smaller varieties like the ‘Sugar Baby’, ‘Golden Midget’, or ‘Mini Love’ are ideal for vertical growing since they are smaller and less heavy than larger varieties, which will become too heavy for a support structure,’ says experienced horticulturist Michael Clarke.

While commercial watermelon growers have the setup to grow larger varieties, smaller types are always simpler and more suited to grow vertically in home backyards.

Discover the range of watermelon seeds at Amazon

Discover the range of watermelon seeds at Walmart

Discover the range of watermelon seeds at Burpee

Discover the range of watermelon seeds at True Leaf Market

2. Use a sturdy structure

Creating a strong vertical trellis is integral to support the weight of the watermelons as they grow, again emphasising why smaller-fruiting varieties are more recommended.

A strong A-frame or vertical vegetable garden trellis can be made of wood or metal, and Michael Clarke advises making sure it can hold ‘at least 20–30 pounds per vine’.

‘Cattle panels or welded wire fencing can be good metal options because of their strength and ease of training vines,’ he says. ‘Make sure to anchor the structure securely, especially in windy areas.’

It is always recommended to have the climbing plant support in place when you plant watermelons, to avoid damaging the plants by installing it later.

A garden box planter with a trellis like this at Walmart offers a ready-made, sturdy setup for growing watermelons vertically, along with any other climbing plants.

3. Regularly train the vines

You need to tie in the vines regularly using soft ties such as garden twine, rope, or cloth strips. Tie them with a loose figure-of-eight loop, avoiding metal ties or tying too tightly, as this can damage the stems.

‘As your watermelon vines grow, you’ll need to tie the vines frequently,’ advises Lotte Berendsen, an expert from PlantIn app. ‘Take some time to evaluate your watermelon’s vines each day as it grows.

‘Watermelons are not natural climbers, so you’ll need to continue attaching the vines frequently. To make sure the plant continues to grow upward, tie the vines as they begin to grow away from the trellis.’

You can prune watermelon plants as they develop to train a selected number of main vines up the trellis, rather than taking the time and effort to tie in and train all stems that develop, as the trellis can get crowded.

4. Support fruits as they develop

Even smaller-fruiting types need the fruits to be supported on the trellis to prevent the vines from falling. Not protecting the fruits risks them dropping to the floor, but it can be quick and simple to protect them from this devastating sequence of events.

‘We recommend creating a sling, from old fabric or a net, to create support for the fruits,’ says Lotte Berendsen. ‘Attach the fabric or net with the fruit inside to the trellis, and allow the fruits to grow into the sling.’

You can use a range of materials to create a sling from, including old t-shirts, pantyhose, stretchy fabric or mesh produce bags.

They want to be put in place once the fruit weighs a few pounds and is around the size of a softball, allowing them to cradle and support the maturing watermelons as they ripen.

FAQs

How tall should a trellis be for watermelon?

A watermelon plant can put out vines that reach 8-10 feet, depending on the variety. However, as you should grow smaller varieties, then a trellis needs to be 6-8 feet tall to accommodate the plant’s stems. It needs to be tall enough for the vines and wide enough to tie at least two main vines up, which will tend to grow around two feet apart.

For the healthiest, thriving watermelons, always plant them in a spot with full sun, warm temperatures around 80°F and fertile, well-draining soil. And to keep them pest-free during the season, companion plant watermelons alongside alliums, aromatic herbs, or marigolds to deter common pests and attract beneficial predators to feed on unwanted visitors.

That's where the caveman cooling method comes into play. As our HVAC experts explain, keeping your home as 'cave-like' as possible, without opening windows, doors, and curtains, is the key to surviving the sunny summer.

Here, they share how to keep a home cool in a heatwave with this simple tip.

What is the caveman cooling method?

Josh Mitchell, HVAC technician and founder of Air Conditioner Lab, explains the caveman cooling method in a nutshell. He says, 'The caveman cooling method is about keeping your living space cool by sealing it off from heat, much like how a cave stays cool underground.

'It works by limiting sunlight, hot air, and any other sources of heat that might raise the temperature. This approach is useful when you don’t have air conditioning or are trying to save energy to cut energy bills.'

If you've ever researched how to cool down a living room, or home remedies to stay cool to counter reasons your home feels hot, you might have come across advice telling you to keep your home dark, with your windows closed.

Limiting exposure is exactly the ancient method early humans used to survive harsh and hot conditions with limited means, hence this hack's nickname: The caveman cooling method.

How to try the caveman cooling method

To use this more unusual method for staying cool at home, advises Josh, start early in the day before it gets hot.

'Close all windows and doors to trap the cooler night air inside,' he directs. 'Cover windows with blackout curtains [such as the bestselling Mainstays Solid Blackout Curtain Panel Pair available at Walmart] or thick blankets to block out sunlight.'

Alternatively, you can just shut your curtains, blinds, or shutters.

Then, adds Josh, turn off lights as much as possible, and heat-generating appliances like ovens or dryers.

'Use towels or weatherstripping to stop hot air from leaking in through gaps,' he continues. 'The goal is to create a still, dark space that neither absorbs nor lets in heat.'

Drawbacks of the caveman cooling method

Importantly, though, advises Josh, the caveman cooling method isn't without its flaws. Most crucially, improving ventilation is something to consider, especially when your home remains sealed for extended periods of time.

'While the caveman method is effective at keeping heat out, it also restricts the circulation of fresh air,' he explains, which is usually considered among what not to do in a heatwave. 'This can sometimes lead to stuffiness or, in humid environments, even moisture buildup if not managed.'

In turn, this may leave you struggling with signs of high home humidity and needing to reduce your home's humidity.

'I always recommend opening up your home in the evening or early morning when temperatures drop outside,' he continues. 'Even just for an hour or two, letting in cooler, fresher air can make a big difference in the overall comfort and air quality of your home.

'It's all about finding that balance between keeping cool and maintaining good ventilation.'

In general, though, Josh says he's seen the caveman cooling method help to lower indoor temperatures by a few degrees, which can make a huge difference when dealing with extreme heat at home.

'It’s not a replacement for AC, but it’s an effective short-term way to stay cooler, especially if you’re only using one room,' he adds.

What to shop

All prices were correct at the time of publication.

FAQs

What methods did early humans use to keep cool?

Even back as early as 2600 BC, humans are recorded as making DIY air conditioners, harnessing the benefits of evaporation to keep cool, hanging wet reed mats over doorways and windows to lower internal temperatures. Evaporation is the most effective method of cooling.

Meet our expert

Need to know how to keep upstairs cool in summer? Much like the caveman cooling method, experts recommend closing your curtains and shades, and sealing your home to prevent warm air entering.

Given that it's made from a blend of synthetic fibers, you could be forgiven for assuming these cleaning cloths may actually be toxic. However, professional cleaners are reassuring fans – this writer included – that the material is perfectly safe for your home, albeit slightly damaging for the planet.

Here, they reveal the exact effects of microfiber in your home and offer some plastic-free, non-toxic cleaning products you can try if you fancy a change.

Is microfiber safe?

The short answer is yes, these cloths are safe and considered non-toxic. In fact, microfiber cloths are the sustainable must-have, according to cleaners.

Dr. Chris DeArmitt, an internationally recognized expert in plastic materials and environmental science, explains, ‘Microfiber cloths are made of polyester, aka PET (polyethylene terephthalate). It is non-toxic.

'In fact, rats were given a diet of 5% PET for months with no effect whatsoever. PET is as safe as the most non-toxic substances, including clay from soil and cellulose, which is what plants and trees are made of.'

When used correctly to deep clean a home microfiber cloths do not shed these plastics, making them safe to use on a daily basis. The problem, however, arises when we wash the cloths.

Is microfiber bad for the environment?

Despite these cloths being non-toxic, washing microfiber cloths can release microplastics. While this is not immediately damaging to our health, they can have a cumulative effect on the environment, and the long-term effects are unknown.

As Dr. Li Li, associate professor at the University of Nevada, explains, ‘Synthetic textile fabrics are designed to be durable, so the synthetic microfibers, which we normally call “microplastics”, cannot be efficiently removed from the environment. Over time, they can even end up in us.

‘Several studies have confirmed that microplastics have been found in human tissues, including the brain. Of course, scientists are still debating whether the presence of microplastics in the human body really has something to do with human health, but we just do not want plastic to stay in our bodies when the science is not clear right now.

'If it turns out later that these microplastics do have harmful effects, it is not like we can go back and “undo” the exposure.’

Fortunately, there are several microfiber cloth mistakes you can avoid to minimize their impact and extend the lifespan.

Alicia Sokolowski, cleaning expert and founder of Aspen Clean, adds, ‘Besides choosing high-quality cloths made from natural fibers like organic cotton or unprocessed bamboo cloths [availible at Amazon], we recommend reducing overall microfiber shedding by washing cloths less frequently, using gentle cycles with cold water when doing laundry, avoiding fabric softeners or traditional chlorine bleaches.'

Opting for a gentle detergent, such as Tide Free & Gentle, from Target, can also help to prolong the lifespan of your cloths.

Alicia continues, ‘For cleaning, using reusable cotton towels or even natural sponges [such as cellulose sponges, available at Target] can also help minimize microplastic release if you want to try some alternative cleaning tricks to reduce plastic use at home.

'Ultimately, balancing effectiveness, durability, reusability, and reducing environmental impact is key to choosing the best cleaning tools for your home while keeping the planet in mind.’

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FAQs

What is OEKO-TEX microfiber?

OEKO-TEX Standard 100 microfiber is certified to be non-toxic, and indicates the absence of harmful chemicals such as azo dyes, formaldehyde, nickel, and other harsh compounds.

Are microfiber sheets non-toxic?

Many microfiber bed sheet sets are non-toxic; however, it is wise to opt for OEKO-TEX-certified microfiber sheets to ensure that they are free from potential harmful chemicals such as phthalates, formaldehyde, and flame retardants.

Meet the experts

Microfiber isn’t just safe, it is versatile, too, with several ways to use microfiber cloths beyond dusting, helping these common cleaning tools earn their keep.

Marjoram has deeply aromatic, grey-green leaves and beautiful, dainty, edible flowers. It's a stalwart aromatic herb used in Mediterranean cooking, and if you're looking for herb garden ideas, this deliciously scented herb comes highly recommended by those with a culinary pedigree. Gardeners love it too - it's impossibly long-flowering and since it is a perennial herb, it will crop year after year.

It's choc full of nectar, so always a flutter with bees and butterflies, and can be planted in any type of garden; city gardens, wildlife gardens, and even works marvellously as an indoor herb garden idea. Here is your guide on how to grow marjoram, one of the best plants for pollinators and culinarians, for that matter.

How to grow marjoram: an expert guide

There are three types of marjoram: sweet marjoram, pot marjoram, and wild marjoram. All are very straightforward to grow, but the most common and best marjoram variety for culinary creations is sweet marjoram.

If you're wondering how to grow marjoram in your garden, my recommendation is to buy it as a plant and grow it directly in the ground, whilst it can be sown from seed (more on that below) generally speaking, it is wonderfully simple to grow an inexpensive young plant directly in the garden.

In zones 9 and above, marjoram is a perennial and can be left in the ground. In chillier areas, marjoram is an annual and should be potted up at the end of the season and overwintered in a sunny window indoors.

You can put your marjoram plant back out in the garden in spring, but make sure the last frost as passed before you do.

How to grow marjoram from seed

'You can grow marjoram from seed, but the seeds are tiny and can take a while to germinate,' explains says gardening and preserving coach Robin Phelps.

'For new gardeners, I usually recommend buying a small plant from the nursery to get a head start. It’s less of a hassle, and you can start harvesting sooner. But if you’re patient, growing from seed is doable indoors or outdoors.'

If you would prefer to grow marjoram from seed, you can buy seeds, like these marjoram seeds from Amazon, and sow the seeds around eight weeks before the last frost, in early spring. Broadcast your seeds into the soil of your chosen pot, or use a seed tray, like this germination tray available at Amazon, which would offer the best results. Water thoroughly and place them in a sunny spot, and watch them sprout in a week or two.

Before planting your new young plants in the garden, plants need to be accustomed to outdoor conditions first, so move them to a sheltered place outside for a week before planting in the ground.

How to grow marjoram from cuttings and division

Growing marjoram from cuttings of an existing marjoram plant is refreshingly straightforward and faff free.

'Marjoram is very easy to propagate,' explains Robin. 'You can take softwood cuttings in spring or summer. Just snip a 3–4-inch stem, remove the lower leaves, and root it in water or a moist potting mix. I’ve also had success with simple division if the plant is large enough.'

How to grow marjoram indoors

Marjoram likes heat and light, and lots of it, as befits its origins in the sunny Mediterranean. As such, it is well adapted for indoor container gardening, particularly loving sunny windowsills and window boxes with southern exposure.

If your windowsills are a little too gloomy for marjoram to thrive, perhaps your kitchen windowsill is north-facing, then marjoram will not be forgiving. In which case, it is worth getting an LED light, like this grow light available at Amazon.

Because marjoram is a sun worshiper, and is used to dryer conditions, you want to be sure you get a potting mix with good drainage (they hate to be soggy!) A great recipe would be equal parts soil and perlite for increased drainage, like this perlite available at Amazon.

'Marjoram does well indoors in a sunny window, just don’t overwater,' warns Robin. 'Let the top inch of soil dry out before watering again. Planting Marjoram in a clay pot can help prevent soggy roots.'

How to grow marjoram in the garden

Select a sunny location with good drainage and dig a hole that is big enough for the entire root ball. Marjoram tends to trail, so give your plant plenty of space to spread out.

Once you have planted your marjoram, thoroughly water and apply a light mulch layer on top of the soil. You will not need to thoroughly water your marjoram again, watering lightly and infrequently is best.

' Marjoram is a beautiful plant to have in the garden: soft green foliage, small white or purple flowers, and it attracts pollinators. I love that it’s low-maintenance but delivers so much flavor and charm.' says Robin.

'My top tip is to give marjoram plenty of sun, which brings out its best flavor. Also, good drainage is critical. If your soil is heavy clay, grow it in a raised bed or pot. And don’t be afraid to harvest often. Like many herbs, marjoram thrives with regular cutting; it keeps the plant productive and encourages lots of tender new growth.'

How to harvest marjoram

Once your plants are around six inches tall, begin pinching the tips off to encourage dense, bushy growth. Once it starts its bushy growth, you should be able to harvest as and when you want.

'I like to harvest marjoram by snipping the top few inches of growth, just above a pair of leaves. This encourages the plant to branch out and become bushier. It’s a good idea to prune regularly. Not only does it keep the plant tidy, but it also prevents it from getting woody. If it starts to flower, pinch the buds to keep the leaves tender and flavorful.' explains Robin.

In the height of summer, your plant will produce delicate and oh-so pretty flower buds. It is best to harvest as much growth as possible when you see buds forming because the flavor is at its best at this point. When you harvest large amounts, you don't take any more than two-thirds of the plant off.

You may find that in the height of summer, you are harvesting an awful lot of marjoram. Remember, you can dry your herbs to preserve them for future use, or freeze them for use in the winter when your marjoram is a little lacklustre.

It is worth bearing in mind that marjoram is toxic to pets, so it's best kept out of reach of your furry friends.

FAQs

What is the difference between marjoram and oregano?

Marjoram and oregano are, in many ways, very similar herbs. However, although they are closely related, they are not the same species.

Oregano (Origanum vulgare) is a hardy perennial herb and can live outside all year long. Marjoram will not withstand any frost and, therefore, is often grown as an annual. It is best cut down to one inch from the ground, potted up, and brought indoors in winter.

Marjoram is a milder and sweeter alternative to spicier oregano. You can think of marjoram as the slightly sweeter cousin of oregano. Although the differences are subtle, their flowers are very different, and their aroma is decidedly unalike.

Does marjoram have issues with pests and diseases?

Happily, marjoram tends to have very few issues with any diseases or pests.

You may find your marjoram plant attracts some aphids, but these can be easily removed by hand. If this doesn't seem to be improving things, introduce or attract natural predators into your herb garden, such as ladybugs. There are several places you can buy ladybugs, or simply locate them in your yard and rehome them next to your marjoram.

The issue of root rot arises fairly often with marjoram, mostly caused by overwatering and poor drainage. Marjoram despises being moist for prolonged periods, so this is usually where gardeners run into trouble. You can inspect the marjoram's roots, and if you can see root rot, remove these affected roots with clean scissors. Repot, or replace in a spot with better-draining soil, and it should bounce back.

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It's worth giving marjoram a go in your garden; it's also one of the best herbs for a window box, as it will be a haven for pollinators and is naturally compact, so it will have no complaints living in a small space.

In particular, I find 'maybe' or 'relocate' piles just don't work for me, and if I'm going to make a decision, I have to make it swiftly.

For that reason, I've found the 3-box decluttering method to be one of the very best decluttering methods for me and my home. I gave it a go, and here, professional organizers explain why it works so well and share their tips on how to use it.

What is the 3-box Decluttering Method?

To explain the 3-Box Decluttering method, I spoke to Julie Witherell, owner and founder at Julie's Organizing Services.

She explains, 'The 3-Box Decluttering Method is all about keeping organizing simple and manageable. It works well for people who tend to get overwhelmed, overthink the process, or get easily distracted,' making it ideal for decluttering your home when you feel overwhelmed, and overcoming a decluttering roadblock.

'You start in one area and sort your items into one of three categories: Keep, Donate or Sell, or Trash.

'The term “box” simply refers to a designated space, whether that is an actual box, a bag, or a clearly marked area. It helps to prepare in advance with supplies on hand: an area for items to keep, a bag for soft donations, a box with light wrapping for breakable donations, and containers for recycling and trash.'

In general, she adds that this method keeps things clear, simple, and easy to follow.

How does the 3-box method differ from the 4-box method?

This method may well be reminding you of the 'four box' decluttering method, and you'd be correct; they're very similar. But, the difference here is that this method doesn't include the 'relocate' box, which, as Julie says, 'can often snowball into a big, undefined pile that creates more decisions later and can derail your progress.'

Devon Fegman-Herdman, professional organizer and founder of Declutter with Devon, agrees. She says, 'I prefer the 3-box system. I think that as you add categories, the decision-making can become overwhelming.

'If you are using the 3-box system, after you complete sorting all of your items, you have to go back to the "keep" pile anyway and begin to put items away. At that point, you are either taking the item to its home or deciding where it will live in your home.

'To me, the fourth box is unnecessary. Folks often struggle with decision-making already, and adding an extra option doesn't help.'

As overcoming decision fatigue is something I struggle with, the 3-box method seemed like the best option for me. Here's how it went.

I tried the 3-box decluttering method

In a bid to clear visual clutter in my bedroom and declutter my bedroom once and for all, I decided to start there. I struggle to declutter as a maximalist, but with the 3-box decluttering method, I definitely found it easier.

I moved around different areas of my space, sorting items into 'Keep,' 'Donate or sell,' and 'Trash,' as recommended by Julie.

Unsurprisingly, my trash pile was easiest, and very quickly, my bin was filled as I got rid of paper clutter and other random rubbish that was cluttering up my room.

Then, with only two options, either donating or selling or keeping, it was easy to sort through the rest of my stuff, decluttering books, shoes, and other accumulation pieces in desperate need of decluttering.

Importantly, I found the lack of a 'relocate' box so much easier. If items I wanted to keep were in the wrong place, I simply sorted them there and then, rather than letting a pile build up, which I know will sit around for weeks at a time before I eventually get round to actually tackling it.

This is what Julie recommends, explaining that you will naturally come across items that need to be relocated.

'It is better,' she says, 'to create a small, manageable pile of items that need to move to another area. Then, at the end of your session, take 15 minutes to return those items to their proper places without getting distracted.

'By handling relocation at the end in one focused step, you are more likely to complete the session without losing momentum or getting distracted. This makes it much easier to follow through and finish the job.'

My verdict

In my opinion, the 3-box decluttering method is a brilliant way to declutter and get organized. After all, it's high time we all ditched our maybe piles and actually made those decisions, rather than putting them off.

As Julie says, 'With fewer categories to manage, there is less decision fatigue, and less chance of getting stuck.' I completely agree with Julie.

If you're still struggling with making decisions, the 'ODT' decluttering method can help to avoid and overcome 'analysis paralysis,' or, as Devon suggests, still make your 'maybe' pile, but date it when you do.

'Then, if you haven't needed anything after a period of time, say six months, you can feel comfortable donating the box without relooking through it,' she explains.

This is similar to the Dot and Ditch decluttering method, and a brilliant way to stop holding onto items 'just in case.'

What to shop

Meet our experts

If you're not sure what to do with items you are decluttering, there are plenty of great, sustainable options in our expert-led guide.

In our mission to find the best vacuum for pet hair, we've spent more than 1,000+ hours testing 75 vacuum cleaners. As Homes & Gardens' home tech editor and resident vacuum expert, I've been testing the best models at a local pet shelter to see what works against pet hair mess once and for all.

Cats and dogs walk through the pet shelter I test at all day, along with employees and customers, resulting in the ideal vacuum test environment for pet hair and mess. Here's what I've learned about getting rid of it properly.

Tricks I've learned from 50+ hours testing vacuums at a pet shelter

I've spent more than 50 hours testing cordless, corded, canister, handheld and carpet vacuum cleaners at the lovely Bristol Animal Rescue Centre, during which, I've discovered exactly what the right pet hair vacuum is capable of and how to get the best out of these essential cleaning tools.

1. Vacuum slowly and often

One thing I've learned from vacuuming fur from carpets is to stop vacuuming in quick motions. Slowing down helps the vacuum pull up more hair as the spinning brushroll spends more time impacting the floor (my vacuum jargon buster further explains these terms).

A vacuum's brushroll can spin anywhere from 1,000 to 7,000+ revolutions per minute – and the longer it's in contact with your floor, the more it's agitating your carpets.

This is how the best vacuums for carpet work. Debris easily becomes trapped within the carpet fibers, so it's up to the brushroll's bristles to dig between them and dislodge any dirt or hair. Whenever I use these slow passes (as captured in my video above), more hair has been vacuumed compared to when I've done quicker passes.

I've also noticed that most vacuums work more effectively when pulling backwards rather than pushing forwards. I imagine this is because the roller is moving in an opposing direction to the floor, and therefore scraping away hair more forcefully. This varies from vacuum to vacuum, though.

And after vacuuming fur on everything from low-pile carpets to thick rugs, it's always the hairs that have been there longer that are the most difficult to clean. The entrance mat that rarely gets cleaned is consistently the trickiest for me to vacuum.

So, when thinking about how often you should vacuum if you have pets, consider how many times somebody might step or sit on the spot of hair. Every time someone does, the hair gets embedded further into the fabric, making it harder to remove.

2. You can't vacuum everything

Bristol Animal Rescue Centre has a mix of smooth floors, carpets, rugs, entrance mats, sofas and chairs – all of which get covered in pet hair every day. And even the most expensive, high-tech vacuum cleaners I've tested there can't vacuum everything.

Removing pet hair from fabric can be an arduous task, and one that can't always be handled by a vacuum cleaner alone. For the super stubborn hairs that won't budge, for example, those on a soft padded chair or a bumpy entrance mat – I often have to pull them out by hand or use a manual pet hair remover.

A classic lint roller usually does the trick, whether it's a sticky roller like the True & Tidy StickyPro XL at QVC, or a reusable one such as the best-selling Chom Chom Roller at Walmart.

Another fool-proof trick we've learned is to invest in one of the best robot vacuums for pet hair. After speaking with dozens of consumers and learning the ins and outs from the pet shelter staff, one of the biggest challenges is vacuuming often enough to avoid hair from building up.

A robot vacuum does that work for you, and from our extensive tests, we can confirm that using eufy robot vacuums is a game-changer for pet hair cleanup.

3. You do, in fact, need the right vacuum

Aside from the rotating brushroll, suction power is key when vacuuming pet hair. It's how the vacuum can yank such stubborn strands of fur that have stuck to the floor.

I always urge caution around budget vacuums offering strong pet hair pickup and anti-tangle brushrolls, as these cheap appliances don't have the high-performing motors required to actually pull hair from difficult surfaces, contributing to why pet hair is so hard to vacuum.

Almost every sub-$300 cordless vacuum I've tested has struggled to vacuum hair. These models are great for homes with hard floors such as tile and hardwood, but when it comes to rugs, carpets and furniture, you need something more robust. It's a key difference when comparing pet vacuums and regular vacuums.

More often than not, it's the best upright vacuums that vacuum pet hair most effectively. Their larger motors and lack of reliance on a rechargeable battery gives them more oomph.

But that's not to say you should write off cordless sticks completely; you just have to pay extra for the convenience. The best Dyson vacuums, most notably the Dyson V15 Detect, are some of the only cordless vacuums we've tested with suction that's as strong as a corded upright. And as they're much smaller and lighter, you'll find it easier to grab them whenever you spot fur building up.

Look for vacuums with suction power of 200 air watts or higher. Unfortunately, most brands don't list this information, so it's best to read thoroughly tested reviews, such as our guide to the best vacuum cleaners.

And make sure you're equipped with the best vacuum attachments for pet hair. It can be tricky cleaning fur from upholstery without them.

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These are three of our favorite pet hair vacuums with strong suction and agitating brushrolls that can clean fur from even the most stubborn surfaces. All prices correct at time of publication.

Next, learn how to maintain your vacuum when you have pets to keep it in its best shape for years.

The advantages of growing lime trees in pots include being able to move them to a perfect spot for summer, then bring them indoors when the temperatures drop. It is possible to enjoy the blossoms and get a great harvest of limes on a sunny deck, patio, or balcony.

Lime trees can be an easy fruit tree to grow in pots, provided you get certain factors correct that keep them happy and healthy. I looked after a large citrus collection as a professional gardener, and spoke to a fruit tree expert to showcase how to grow a lime tree in a pot, including the most important factors to get right.

Where to grow a lime tree in a pot

Containers open up possibilities for growing and caring for citrus trees in cooler climates, which is especially important for lime trees, as they are sensitive to temperature.

'Lime trees are the most frost-sensitive of all citrus, and are cold hardy to about 32°F when planted in the ground,' explains Bethany Lakatos, plant expert at Fast Growing Trees.

However, when in containers, they are even less cold-hardy than when growing in the ground. 'If container-grown, they’ll need to be brought indoors when temperatures dip below 50°F,' adds Bethany.

An advantage to growing fruit trees in pots is that you can place the pots in the sunniest spot in the yard, and away from cold winds. On the whole, lime trees need at least six hours of sunlight. However, there are locations where more or less full sun may be recommended.

'Limes will appreciate more sun in mild climates like the West Coast,' says Bethany Lakatos. 'And in very hot, arid climates, like Texas and the Southwest, they will appreciate some protection from the scorching afternoon sun.'

The particular light requirements of lime trees also need to be considered when you overwinter the plants indoors to shield them from cold winter temperatures.

'Indoors in winter, they need at least 5 hours of sunlight, though a grow light is usually necessary to keep them from defoliating and looking their best,' adds the fruit tree expert. 'Grow lights can be on from 14-16 hours, with at least 8 hours off.'

How to grow a lime tree in a pot: 4 factors for success

If you want to grow a lime tree in a pot, you must accept that plants want regular TLC. However, the reward outweighs the effort. Here are four key areas you need to get right to get a lime tree to fruit and remain happy and healthy in a container.

Variety

The best choice if you want to grow a lime tree in a pot is a dwarf or compact variety. These types offer all the beauty and fragrance of a lime tree without reaching 15 feet or more like regular varieties.

Dwarf lime trees grow to 3-6 feet, depending on the variety, and are suitable for container gardens. They may need repotting as they develop, but are capable of flowering and fruiting profusely on more compact trees.

The most popular dwarf varieties of lime trees include the key lime (aka the Mexican lime), the kaffir lime, and the Persian lime (aka the Tahiti Lime).

Pot and Soil

Pick a pot that is a little bit larger than the lime tree’s rootball and repot the tree into a bigger container over time. That is always a better approach than putting it straight into a too-big pot, which can lead to trees sitting in soggy soil for extended periods.

The pot can be of any material, but terracotta pots are advisable. They do dry out faster than plastic containers, but this can be beneficial when you grow a lime tree in a pot.

'Using porous terracotta containers and citrus or cactus soil helps with good drainage and aids in preventing overwatering, which is important because limes are sensitive to root rot,' advises Bethany Lakatos.

An absolute must is that any container has drainage holes in the bottom, so that excess water can escape to prevent the lime tree from sitting in sodden soil for too long. An alternative to citrus or cactus soil is to fill pots with a soilless, well-draining potting mix.

You can often find citrus soil in nurseries, garden centers, or online, such as this special blend for citrus trees at Amazon.

Watering

Overwatering plants poses a large risk to lime trees in containers; it is important to allow the soil to dry out before watering. Only water citrus trees when the top two inches of soil have dried out, and water deeply when you do, until you see the water flowing out of the drainage holes.

And tailor your watering schedule season-to-season. 'Watering will vary based on temperature and climate, but in general, limes will need more water during the growing season when temperatures are warmer and they are actively growing and ripening fruit,' says Bethany.

It means you may water several times a week during the summer, but it can be reduced to once a week or less during the cooler season. Check the soil moisture under the surface when watering plants in containers, either using your fingers or a soil moisture meter (like this soil moisture meter at Amazon) to assess when to water.

Feeding

Fertilizing lime trees in pots is hugely beneficial, but you need to pick the right products and feed at the correct time to keep trees healthy and fruiting.

Bethany recommends: 'Fertilize during the growing season, from spring to fall, with a citrus-specific fertilizer that includes iron, zinc, and manganese, the micronutrients most likely to be deficient in citrus plants.'

You can choose between granular or liquid feeds to fertilize citrus trees. Granular products are best applied every 30-60 days, while liquid ones require more frequent applications, approximately every two weeks.

Always apply fertilizers at the recommended rates to avoid over-fertilizing plants, and avoid feeding any lime trees that are showing signs of water or heat stress.

This Expert Gardener Citrus Plant Food Fertilizer at Walmart has an NPK ratio of 6-4-6 is an ideal granular fertilizer to use throughout the growing season.

FAQs

Why is my potted lime tree dropping leaves?

If you see citrus leaves curling or dropping, it can be down to many different factors. Defoliation of lime trees in pots is most often caused by watering issues, including both over- and under-watering, or a lack of nutrients.

Wherever you grow lime trees, they do benefit from pruning. You do not have to prune a lime tree every year, more often than not they need some attention every 2-3 years to remove dead, broken, crossing, or weak branches. This helps to shape the tree and improve air circulation and sunlight penetration, to keep it healthy.

The best time to prune citrus trees is in late winter or early spring, while the tree is dormant and just before it actively starts growing for the new season.

With over 150 species and countless cultivars, you are sure to find a species to suit your tastes and needs. And, while they look good as statement shrubs in isolation, I actually think viburnums do best when surrounded by companion plants that add contrast in colour and texture.

So, maybe you already have an established shrub or you might be planning to plant one this year, but choosing one, two or more of the best viburnum companion plants will really help tie your space together. From red-twig stems to vibrant flowering shrubs, these are five plants I’d consider pairing with viburnums in my yard.

5 of the best viburnum companion plants

If you already know how to grow viburnum, then you won't find it that complicated to grow other shrubs and perennials alongside them.

When choosing viburnum companion plants, the trick is to select species that work for the climate in your region and US hardiness zone.

And, if you have a species that thrives in shade, be sure to grow shade-loving companion plants underneath. Likewise for sunny yards.

Here are five of the best perennials and shrubs to grow alongside your viburnums this year.

1. Weigela

If you want a strong colour contrast to offset viburnum’s deep green leaves, weigela is a solid pick.

'Weigela are some of the best flowering shrubs,' says Tamara Hogan, plant expert and lead horticulturist at Fast Growing Trees.

'If you want a unique option, I recommend this 'Spilled Wine' variety, with live plants available from Fast Growing Trees,' says Tamara.

'With burgundy foliage and fuchsia flowers in spring and summer, this variety provides an excellent contrast to the green viburnums.'

In terms of how to grow weigela, most are hardy down to zone 4, and do best in full sun to part shade, depending on where you live.

'If you reside in a warm location, I would recommend giving them some protection in the afternoon since dark foliage can sometimes go crispy,' Tamara adds. 'They are also tolerant of a range of soils.'

2. Red Twig Dogwood

'Red twig dogwood, or Cornus sericea, is one of our best native dogwoods found growing in wooded areas across North America,' Tamara continues.

Live red twig dogwood plants can be ordered now via Fast Growing Trees.

'They are hardy from zone 2 to zone 8, with a preference for full sun to part shade. This is also a great plant for wetter locations to help take up some extra water.

'This plant is a great late-season combination with the viburnum family,' Tamara adds.

'Viburnums tend to have some pretty great fall color, with the American varieties often being used as substitutes for burning bushes.

'And, I think to go from that bright red foliage to the bright red stems of the dogwood is just a wonderful show of color.'

As Tamara says, this is a plant with long-term value. Adding structure, wildlife appeal and seasonal color.

Just be sure to prune red twig dogwood at the right time, usually around late winter, to allow you to enjoy the red stems for the maximum amount of time.

3. Barberry

'Another option with burgundy foliage to contrast against your viburnum is Japanese barberry,' Tamara says.

'I love the 'Rose Glow' variety, with live plants available from Fast Growing Trees, which is a variegated option with white and pink leaves.

'Hardy down to zone 4, these are some of the best evergreen shrubs that thrive in sunny yards,' Tamara says.

'They also keep their leaves throughout the year, adding interest when the viburnum has defoliated.

'However, barberries can have a state restriction on them, as these fast-growing shrubs can be invasive plants in certain regions.

'So, it is always best to seek guidance from your local government office before adding them to your plot.'

4. Thuja

'When growing deciduous viburnums, I like to pair them with evergreens, in either different colors or different textures to elevate my borders,' Tamara says.

'One of my go-to plants is the 'Fire Chief' thuja, or arborvitae, which is a multi-colored conifer that has bright orange tips throughout the growing season.'

Live 'Fire Chief' plants are available to order from Fast Growing Trees.

In general, thuja is one of the easiest evergreen trees and shrubs to grow in borders, and is hardy down to zone 5, tolerating cold winters without any worry.

In fact, it is often considered one of the best evergreen shrubs that thrives on neglect, as it is so low-maintenance.

'They do great in full sun,' Tamara says, 'and can handle a variety of soil conditions.'

Just be sure to provide a deep watering in the first year, to help your plant settle into your yard.

5. Juniper

Another good option if you are looking for viburnum companion plants is creeping juniper, or Juniperus horizontalis.

Live juniper plants can be ordered online via Fast Growing Trees.

This native plant is one of the easiest ground cover plants that is found growing across North America.

It is low-growing, often reaching no more than two feet tall, so it is a good option if you want to create a green carpet effect around your larger viburnum shrubs.

Creeping juniper can grow down to zone 4, and is a versatile plant, typically thriving in most locations, growing well in full sun and poor soils.

FAQs

What shade-tolerant perennial works well alongside viburnums?

If your viburnum grows in a dark corner of the yard, it is a good idea to use full-shade perennials. Try growing bunchberry dogwood or foamflowers, both of which are native to North America and thrive in darker situations. Dozens of hosta varieties would also help to illuminate shady spots, such as this 'Blue Angel' hosta, available from Fast Growing Trees.

Whatever viburnum companion plants you opt to grow, it is best to add them to your yard during spring or fall, when the temperature is mild and the soil is slightly damp.

After planting, be sure to water thoroughly and give your borders a good mulching to help retain moisture and prevent weed growth for the year ahead.

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These five essential categories can help to make your life infinitely easier throughout summer, from prepping hosting essentials to arranging summer maintenance supplies for easy access.

Here, professional organizers explain why these five things should be the focus for your energy in July.

5 things to organize in July 2025

1. Hosting essentials

Angelia York, professional organizer and VP of Saint Louis Closet Co., begins, ‘Keep your outdoor entertaining zones neat. Have grilling tools, outdoor tableware, and citronella candles in one easy-to-reach area for summer nights.

'Other items that are good to go through in the summer are holiday décor pieces – most notably, you should check for leftover 4th of July supplies and donate decor you won’t/didn’t use this year.’

For those decor pieces you chose to keep, use a large air-tight bin from Walmart to keep them free from pests. Pick a clear bin to easily see the contents, or label well so you do not lose items for decorating or hosting next year.

2. Yard furniture

With the weather finally hot and sunny, it might surprise to hear that it's a good time to organize your patio furniture ideas in July. This is to ensure they are all under cover when not in use or for summer showers.

When not in use, prolonged exposure to the sun could also damage your best wooden outdoor furniture, leading to costly replacements. This damage may be exacerbated with the heavy usage your outdoor sets will see when hosting throughout July until fall.

Mike Fretto, creative director at Neighbor, explains, ‘Summer heat can make the colorful fabric on your outdoor furniture fade. Specifically, direct sun exposure can do this.

'When those cushions and pillows are exposed to the bright, hot sun every single day, those UV rays can wear down the fabric and lead to the color fading. So, one of the best things you can do is keep your furniture covered as much as possible when you aren’t using it.

'Also, if you are on the market for new furniture, look for pieces that have UV-resistant finishes or that are more durable in general.’

Polywood furniture, available at Wayfair is particularly hardy and low maintenance.

3. Pool supplies

If you have a pool, it is probably seeing heavy use in July, increasing the need for proper pool maintenance. Jeremy Yamaguchi, CEO of Cabana, says, ‘If you have a pool, now is a good time to declutter and organize all of your pool equipment and items, from your pool chemicals, to your cleaning products and floaties or toys.

'Going through your chemicals and cleaning products in particular is important so that you can check to see if anything has expired or needs to be purchased. That will allow you to tackle your deep cleans with ease.’

Arranging all of your supplies and restocking also allows you to quickly treat and shock pool water if you get an outlier result after testing your pool water.

It isn’t just the practical pieces that need arranging, but the fun stuff too. Angelia adds, ‘When organizing during summer, pool and beach supplies are important to keep tidy! Designate a clear, weather-resistant bin [such as the Keter Samoa Resin Deck Box from Walmart] or basket for pool toys, beach towels, and sunscreen near your entryway or garage for grab-and-go ease.’

4. Heat-beating essentials

When trying to keep a home cool in a heatwave, the last thing you want to be doing is digging around the furthest corners of your attic storage to find fans and cooling blankets. Organize cooling supplies and bring them to the front of your storage ideas at the start of July so that they are ready to use when the temperatures peak.

Uma Darji, MD of family medicine, says, ‘As a family medicine doctor, I always remind my patients that extreme heat can be more dangerous than we think – especially for young kids, older adults, and people with chronic health conditions. Having a home cooling kit ready can literally save lives during a heat emergency.’

5. Freezer spaces

With hot weather and parties on the horizon comes an influx of frozen goods and pre-prepared meals and dishes ready to cover hosting large gatherings (or to simplify cooking on days where it is simply too hot to stand over a stove for longer than 10 minutes).

As such, it can be helpful to organize your freezer at the beginning of July to make space for all the new additions.

Meghan Cocchiaro, owner and professional home organizer at Organized by Meg adds, ‘It’s also a good time to refresh by working category by category, getting rid of food that didn't get eaten and is not usually part of your normal diets; this will make room for hosting essentials.’

With those items gone, pull anything that needs eating first to the front of your freezer, pushing newer items to the back. This simple organizing tactic will ensure nothing is left to get freezer burn.

These FreezeUp freezer racks, from Target, can help keep shelves and drawers neat when organizing boxes. This XL wide fridge and pantry bin, also from Target, is perfect for bags and loose items.

Meet the experts

If you have any energy left in the hot weather after organizing in July, tackle the things to clean in July for a fully refreshed home.

Martha Stewart recently took to Instagram to share her charming take on the nostalgic float. Her version swaps traditional ice cream for a generous spoonful of freshly whipped cream and features Coca-Cola ice cubes to keep the drink perfectly chilled without diluting its flavor.

Finished with an ice-cold bottle of cola, it’s a simple yet sophisticated spin on a timeless summer treat. It's the ideal accompaniment to our favorite summer lunch recipes.

In a recent Instagram post, she begins by pouring Coca-Cola into ice cube trays to freeze.

'This way, you can have really cold Coca-Cola,' she explains in the video– a clever idea that even Coca-Cola itself praised as 'genius' in the comments.

Once frozen, the cola cubes are placed in a tall glass and topped with more chilled soda. Rather than the usual scoop of ice cream, Martha finishes her float with a generous dollop of freshly whipped cream, creating a lighter, more elegant version of the beloved treat.

While some followers suggested adding vanilla ice cream for a more traditional float, others compared it to the popular 'dirty soda' – a sweet, fizzy blend of soda, cream, and flavored syrups that has taken social media by storm.

Whether you’re embracing the retro appeal or enjoying a modern twist, Martha’s take is a delightful reminder of the simple pleasures of summer. As she so perfectly puts it, it’s 'perfect for summertime, bringing back memories of times gone by.'

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If you wish to recreate Martha Stewart's Coca-Cola float for your summer party, these accessories will ensure you stay on-brand and in style.

Learning how to grow sweet peas couldn't be more straightforward. They're strong, long-flowering and highly productive plants, and for intense scent and beauty, you cannot beat them. The main thing to bear in mind is that they are cut-and-come-again flowers, and to prolong your sweet pea crops, they need to be picked regularly.

Here, we explain how picking at regular intervals will keep your plants flowering right through summer and into fall.

Is it essential to deadhead sweet peas?

The short answer to this question is, if you want a proliferation of pretty sweet pea flowers, yes, you must pick or 'deadhead' your sweet peas.

Usually, with deadheading, you are keeping your eyes out for spent flowers (flowers which are coming to the end of their life). However, when it comes to sweet peas, it's best not to let the flowers come to the end of their life; you want to pick them off beforehand.

As we hurtle into summer and temperatures spike, sweet peas concentrate their energy into producing seeds and stop concerning themselves with producing any flowers. Sweet peas are flowering annuals, and as such, once seeds develop, they tell the plant that its work is done, and the plant starts to die back.

We want to delay that process, so as to have more flowers all summer long, thus maximise the flowers and minimise the seeds.

Regular picking will encourage more flowers and prevent plants from setting seed. You'll also have a steady supply of cut flowers for the house, which is a total joy to the senses.

You should also remove any spent flowers and seed pods that have started to form at the same time.

When to pick and deadhead sweet peas

The best course of action is to harvest flowers as often as you can all summer long to keep the plants producing more pretty flowers.

Once a week should be sufficient, but you may find that at their peak, you’ll need to pick and deadhead every couple of days. Whatever happens, keep a close eye on them to prevent them from producing seeds.

A good rule of thumb? Whenever you are in the garden, secateurs in hand, and you see some sweet pea flowers, don't be afraid to cut them; they won't suffer from it, they will only go on to produce more and more flowers. As the flowers open, keep cutting, and never leave seeds to develop on the plants.

How to deadhead sweet peas

Happily, the way to cut back sweet peas is the same for all sweet pea varieties.

Cut back as far along the stem as possible, and don't leave any stubs. Using garden snips for this is better than using your fingers, so you leave a clean cut, which will prevent damage to the plant.

You can leave any new and emerging flower buds, so your plant won't be bare of flowers for long. However, if you find any pods of seeds, remove them immediately. You can always remove the seeds from the pods and dry them indoors, so you can use them to propagate next year's sweet peas.

Though it is best to prevent your sweet peas from going to seed as much as possible by picking before seed production sets in.

After picking your sweet peas, be sure to water the plants thoroughly, and don't let them dry out.

If you are finding that your sweet peas are too leggy and getting very lofty without producing many or any flowers, cut up to half the leaves off the plant, and remove as many tendrils as you like.

To prevent this in the future, pinch out emerging tips to encourage side growth when the plants are fairly young, about 10cm tall. Find the central growing tip and pinch it between your finger and thumb. This will encourage the plant to grow out rather than up.

Shop deadheading essentials

Remember that sweet peas want to grow up, so for happy and healthy plants, it is worth planting them against a trellis or making a sweet pea teepee, so they can climb and ramble in all their glory.

Hypochlorous acid (HOCl) is a mild acid and powerful antibacterial compound that is naturally produced by the human immune system to fight off infections, making it one of the safest cleaning products to use in your home, especially around children and pets.

Here, professional cleaners share their tips for cleaning with hypochlorous acid to help you build your arsenal of effective non-toxic cleaning products.

How to clean with hypochlorous acid

Professional cleaner Scott Schrader, of CottageCare, begins, ‘Using hypochlorous acid (HOCl) for cleaning is not only a good idea – it is one of the most underrated innovations in safe and effective home cleaning. From my experience cleaning professionally, HOCl fills the void between becoming a commercial cleaner and safe, everyday cleaning.

‘It is smart cleaning – high impact with low risk, killing bacteria, viruses, and fungi on contact, yet is as gentle as saline.’

The best part of this cleaning tip is that it is gentle enough that you can use it practically everywhere around your home, from cleaning marble countertops to disinfecting high-touch spots such as door handles and remote controls.

These are our top five favorite tricks for creating a non-toxic home.

1. Countertops and surfaces

Scott shares, ‘Hypochlorous acid cleaning is perfect for any high-touch surface, such as cleaning kitchen countertops. Simply spray it on, let it sit for 60 seconds, and wipe off – no rinse needed. It's even food-safe, making it ideal for food prep areas.

‘Second, high-touch surfaces such as doorknobs and light switches. A quick spray and a quick chance disinfects – no bleach, no quats, no fumes.’ It is the perfect alternative to toxic anti-bacterial sprays.

Pair the spray with a similarly non-toxic tool, such as sponge cleaning cloths from Walmart, to easily disinfect surfaces without the risk of additional bacterial contamination.

2. Bathrooms

If you want to clean a bathroom like a pro, look no further than Hypochlorous acid cleaning, adds Taylor Riley, partner at AMR US Commercial Cleaning.

‘I started using hypochlorous acid when looking for a green cleaning solution that could disinfect without being a health hazard around the house. I use it on kitchen counters, in the bathroom, especially around the toilet.’

For tougher tasks that require a little more elbow grease, consider using hypochlorous acid to disinfect before following up with a damp, non-scratch Scrub Daddy Sponge from Target, to keep cleaning green.

3. Toys

Cleaning and disinfecting baby toys and pet toys is a constant struggle. You can’t use harsh cleaners, or else you risk making them sick, but you can’t leave them to collect germs.

That’s why Taylor suggests cleaning with hypochlorous acid instead, ‘If you’re looking for something that kills germs without harming your family, HOCl is the go-to solution. I even use it on my kids' toys and play areas, particularly if someone’s been sick. There’s not much you can’t use it on.’

In between uses, store toys (especially bath/wet outdoor toys) in mesh storage baskets, available from Walmart, to allow them to breathe and limit the risk of mold and bacterial growth.

4. Shoes and accessories

One cleaning habit I cannot live without as a cleaning editor is using a spray bottle of hypochlorous acid to quickly disinfect commonly used accessories such as my shoes, glasses, and gym headphones.

Because it is so gentle, a quick spritz kills bacteria (removing and preventing odors at the same time) without risking bleaching, staining, or water damage. I simply spray, leave it to sit for a minute, and wipe away with a soft cloth.

Keeping a small spray bottle, from Target, in my gym bag also means I can spray the solution over my face when I get sweaty to kill bacteria that could otherwise cause acne – there are not many home cleaning products I can use interchangeably.

5. Upholstery

Cleaning a couch and removing odors from upholstery is usually a painstaking task that requires machinery or a lot of elbow grease. For quick touch-ups, however, Scott says, ‘HOCl is completely safe for upholstery. Use it to spritz down furniture to deodorize and sanitize without saturating.’

Bear in mind that this solution won’t work to remove stains when cleaning upholstery; rather, it is a way of refreshing fabrics and killing bacteria for a more sanitary home. For stain removal, following the usual routine of a mild detergent (such as Tide Free & Gentle, from Walmart), water, and blotting with a clean cloth is your best bet.

The limitations of HOCl

As with any essential cleaning tool, there are some limitations to hypochlorous acid cleaning, although these are fewer than most other cleaning products. Most notably, how you organize your cleaning supplies is essential to keeping hypochlorous acid effective.

Scott explains, ‘HOCl is very sensitive to light and air; for these reasons, you should not store HOCl in clear containers or use it if it is past the expiration date, as it loses potency rapidly.’

What’s more, you should never mix hypochlorous acid with other cleaning products, even other non-toxic solutions, such as cleaning with vinegar to cleaning with baking soda.

Taylor explains, ‘You do need to avoid mixing it with other cleaners like bleach or vinegar as it can create harmful reactions.’

What to shop

FAQs

Can you mop with hypochlorous acid?

You can mop with hypochlorous acid to eliminate germs and odors. Start by spraying the whole area with the acid and let it sit for several minutes before mopping it away with a clean mop head.

Can you put hypochlorous acid in a washing machine?

For extra sanitization, you can add some hypochlorous acid directly to your washing machine with your regular detergent. This is especially useful for heavy-duty disinfecting tasks such as washing gym wear, or cleaning bedding and towels after illness.

Meet the experts

Switching to non-toxic cleaning alternatives such as hypochlorous acid is a great way to quickly eliminate some of the most surprising sources of phthalates in your home, making you and your family healthier.

Well, planting extra flowers isn't the only way to add color to your backyard ideas. There are so many ways to go about bringing vibrancy to a garden, courtyard or balcony that you may not even at first consider, and can make an impactful difference.

Here garden experts share their top four ways to add color to your yard without planting any flowers, and how each works to bring brightness to a space. These ideas are perfect for the summer to wake your yard or terrace up in time for guests or relaxing outdoors with a beautiful backdrop.

1. Add plants with colored foliage

There are many plants out there with foliage so gorgeous it could rival any flower. You'd be surprised by the amount of stunning colors leaves can be, from deep purples to tinted blues and yellows.

Just think of how each of these would stand out in your yard, whether you're looking to add bright hues to create a foliage border or something more subtle and sporadic. Plus, they can all be grown vertically in taller planters or in pots that hook over a balcony.

Laura Janney, CEO of The Inspired Garden Masterclass, says, 'There are many plants out there with colorful foliage to bring beauty to a yard, but these are my top three picks.'

1. 'Coral bells (Heuchera sanguinea) provide wonderful shades of green, red, purple (and even some hues of silver) and are a top choice for someone looking to avoid flowers because they provide this attractive foliage all season.'
2. 'Coleus (Solenostemon scutellarioides) is another plant that, compared to flowers, blooms full season from spring to fall and grows quickly, showing off vibrant leaf colors of red, purple, pink, orange, green and yellow.' Learn how to grow coleus here.
3. 'Lastly, I would also recommend Persian shield plants (Strobilanthes dyerianus) for these same reasons mentioned above. They boast stunning metallic or iridescent colors including purple and silver year-round, and require minimal work from gardeners.'

2. Add plants with variegated foliage in pots

Opting for plants or trees in containers with variegated foliage is another great way to add color and spruce up your backyard without planting any flowers.

These are leafy plants with foliage of multiple different hues, such as 'Goshiki' (Osmanthus heterophyllus), a selection of 'Solomon Seal', and ‘Variegatum’ (Polygonatum odoratum - types of spider plant).

Andrew Bunting, vice president of horticulture at the Pennsylvania Horticultural Society, says, 'There are many interesting plants with variegated foliage, often in combinations of green and yellow or green and white. ‘Variegatum’ [spider plant] is a great woodland plant with arching stems, and white and green variegated leaves. Osmanthus heterophyllus ‘Goshiki’ is another option with evergreen holly-like leaves that have an attractive suffusion of yellow, white and green.'

3. Use colored planters

A simple but effective way to inject more color into your yard without planting any flowers is to switch in some colorful container gardening ideas.

These don't have to be neon yellow to be effective. The best plant pots can be muted pastels, quiet pops of navy and purple, or any colors that won't blend in too much with the background of the natural world will be noticeable in the space.

Jessica Mercer PhD, a plant expert at Plant Addicts, says, 'A great way to add color without petals is with hardscape accents like showy containers. A trio of durable planters sat together can become a commanding focal point, whether you're planting up matching greenery in each container or something contrasting.'

The corky metal pot planter from Wayfair and the maisonette pot planter, also from Wayfair both come in a large range of colors to tailor to any yard.

4. Add color through patio furniture and accessories

Focusing your attention on the rest of your yard's furniture and patio ideas is another easy way to implement color without any additional flowers. It might be as simple as a lick of paint here and there, or a seasonal pillow can do a lot when designing a patio.

'A weather-resistant bench sprayed in a bold teal or a set of powder-coated steel trellises in citrus orange supply saturated hues across the yard,' says Jessica.

'Fabric can be a mobile splash of color too. Outdoor pillows and umbrellas can echo the tones in your foliage, can be swapped out easily, and fold away for winter.'

If your yard is still lacking the colour you were hoping for, dotting a few patio plants or thoughtful pieces of garden art or garden decor around the yard might do just the trick. For instance, the glitzhome metal hanging birdhouse from Amazon is functional while adding a burst of red to your yard without taking up floor space.

If you're looking to redesign the majority of your yard while adding color, we recommend considering the top backyard improvements that add value to your home while embarking on the job. This way, your yard's new design will also benefit you financially in the future.

It's a task that can be tricky and time-consuming, but there's one surprising fridge staple cleaning experts recommend using to get your grill sparkling like new. What goes hand in hand with a cookout? Beer.

Here, our cleaning pros share how to clean a grill with this beverage in no time at all.

Why is beer good for cleaning a grill?

You might have heard of using beer as a slug control method, but why exactly is it this a good cleaning tip for filthy grills?

Karina Toner, cleaning expert and operations manager at Spekless, explains, 'Beer’s natural carbonation and acidity work wonders on cooked-on grease and food residue. The carbonation helps lift grime from grill grates, while the alcohol acts as a solvent that cuts through oils.

'Its mild acidity can also break down gunk without the harshness of commercial cleaners, making it an effective and surprisingly gentle option for a quick grill refresh.'

And, as Alessandro Gazzo, cleaning expert at Emily's Maids, adds, you usually have beer on hand during a barbecue, and therefore hopefully, some leftovers to tick off this essential outdoor cleaning task.

How to clean your grill using beer

Sprucing up your grill with beer is easy, but you'll need to make sure it's hot before you get started.

So, either use it on your grill directly after cooking on it, or preheat it for 15 minutes to loosen any food debris or grease. 'Use a high heat setting to help carbonize stuck-on food,' advises Karina.

Then, you're ready to follow this step-by-step method:

1. Pour on the beer: Once your grill is hot but turned off, pour about a half a can or bottle of beer directly over the warm, not hot, grates, directs Karina. 'A light lager works well because it's fizzy and not too sticky,' she says.
2. Scrub the grates: Then, 'use a sturdy grill brush to scrub down the grates while the beer fizzes,' advises Karina. She recommends the Kona 360 Clean Grill Brush available at Amazon, as it has a wide reach and is safe for all grill types.
3. Wipe down and rinse: Once scrubbed and cooled, use a damp microfiber cloth, such as the Great Value Microfiber Cloth available at Walmart, to remove residue, before rinsing with water, if needed, to remove any lingering smell, continues Karina.
4. Optional final polish: Finally, suggests Karina, you can add a little vegetable oil to a paper towel, such as the bestselling Sparkle Tear-a-Square Paper Towels available at Walmart, and wipe the grates to re-season them slightly.

If beer is not something you keep at home, you can also try cleaning with vinegar instead.

'It's cheaper, more acidic, and sometimes more effective,' Alessandro says. 'Just mix with water and spray on a warm grill. Let it sit for five minutes, then scrub with a brush.'

We recommend mixing your DIY cleaning solution in a 1:1 ratio, using a spray bottle such as the Mainstays Empty Plastic Spray Bottle available at Walmart.

What to shop

All prices were correct at the time of publication.

Meet our experts

Interested in more household methods to clean a grill? You can actually use both onion and lemon for an effective clean, too.

Now, after several years working as a professional gardener, I have planted all sorts of grasses, but I remain a little in awe of the shade-tolerant Japanese forest grass, or Hakonechloa macra. It has slightly broader blades than most fine grasses (roughly half an inch), and once it’s established, it forms these soft, elegant mounds, as can be seen in the image above. They look cinematic; like something from an animation.

While easy to grow, Japanese forest grass is slow to get going and won’t fill borders instantly. You’re probably looking at two years before it really settles in. But, believe me, the investment is worth it. So, if you are considering landscaping with ornamental grasses this year, Japanese forest grass comes with a glowing recommendation. Here’s everything I have learned about how to grow Japanese forest grass.

How to grow Japanese forest grass

I think that Japanese forest grass is one of the best perennials for shady borders. And, who wouldn't want to fill dark spots in the yard with dense ground cover plants? Fortunately for us, learning how to grow Japanese forest grass is relatively simple, so long as you follow a handful of rules as set out here.

Growing habits of Japanese forest grass

Japanese forest grasses can be grown down to US hardiness zone 4, making them some of the best plants for a Japanese garden in cooler, northern regions.

Live Japanese forest grasses are available to order via Amazon.

While this species does produce fine, delicate flowers that are typical of grasses, it is usually grown for its lush lime-green foliage, which not only delights in spring and summer, but also displays remarkable seasonal color changes in fall, too.

I would usually advise planting this grass in spring or fall, but it can be added to borders at any time of year. Just avoid planting during a heatwave or deep freeze.

In terms of placement, Japanese forest grass does best either as full-shade perennials or part-shade perennials, and I would not advise planting in full sun, unless you live in zone 4.

These are also good ground cover plants for wet soil, and can handle damp borders that retain moisture, so long as they are not waterlogged for prolonged weeks and months.

And, unlike many non-native grasses, Japanese forest grass is very slow-growing and is not considered an invasive plant. The clumps will stay fairly compact and manageable for many years.

Care guide for Japanese forest grass

Soil: Japanese forest grasses are woodland plants, so they enjoy moist, fertile soil, like you would expect to find in a wooded area or forest. Mulching is a good idea to improve the quality and structure of your soil. Try using something like this organic mulch from Walmart.

Light: They thrive in part-shade, preferring a few hours of morning sun and protection from harsh rays in the afternoon. However, in southern regions, like zone 8, you can get away with planting in deep shade. Do note, however, that the coloration of the blades will change depending on the light. So, in full shade, the blades will be greener, whereas in part shade, they will take on a yellow-gold tint. If you are keen on yellow varieties, grow 'All Gold', with live plants available from Amazon.

Watering: Japanese forest grasses do best in evenly moist soil. If there is a prolonged heatwave, or you are suffering from drought in July or August, I would recommend deep watering every few days, to help them on their way.

Fertilizing: In my experience, it is not really necessary to fertilize Japanese forest grasses. If you annually mulch your borders, this should be sufficient to provide them with everything they need. If, however, you are growing in poor soil, you can use a balanced multi-purpose fertilizer in spring to give your grasses a boost.

Pruning: No pruning is necessary during the growing season. I would suggest leaving the blades to bronze and yellow through the winter months, which will help to provide interest during November and December. You can then cut your grass down to the base right at the point before your plants jump into life in spring, usually best done in February or March. After pruning, you can then mulch around the base of the plant, which is far easier when the foliage is out of the way.

Toxicity: Japanese forest grass is not reported as having any toxic effects on humans or pets.

FAQs

Can I grow Japanese forest grass in pots?

Yes, you can grow Japanese forest grass in pots. Be sure to place the container in a part-sun-part-shade location, and ensure that you water regularly. While they do not like having boggy soil, they require consistent water, which can be tricky when growing in pots. Try planting alongside other shade-loving perennials, like hostas and ferns.

Consider also adding one or two of the best native grasses to your plot, alongside your clumps of Japanese forest grass.

From blue grama to deer grass, there are many attractive and tough species native to North America. Our guide has all the information to inspire your next planting project.

Shop gardening accessories

Because, as it turns out, blasting the AC on full power for hours on end is not the answer, even if it does feel great when it is otherwise too hot to function. Using it in this way could result in some eye-watering energy bills and even damage your AC.

However, that doesn't mean you have to suffer through the sweltering heat. Here, HVAC pros explain how to use your AC efficiently to keep a home cool in a heatwave.

The most efficient way to run your AC in a heatwave

Despite being made to cool down a home in summer, many air conditioning types are not made to function in extreme heat. As a result, they can easily overheat if used incorrectly or for too long.

Luckily, regular maintenance and some unusual methods for staying cool at home can help to minimize damage to your unit while cutting energy bills.

1. Avoid turning your AC down

Although it sounds counterintuitive, the best temperature to set your AC in summer is not the lowest. The lower the temperature you set, the harder your AC will have to work.

Dereck Granados, HVAC instructor at Universal Technical Institute, explains, ‘Setting your thermostat to extremely low temperatures won’t cool your home any faster but will force your AC to work harder. Aim to set your thermostat around in the mid-70s and use ceiling or portable fans to help create a breeze and move the cooler air around without overloading the HVAC system.’

Similarly, keep your AC set to a consistent temperature to avoid temperature fluctuations, making your AC work harder. Scott Levene, VP of Levco, a family-owned HVAC service company, suggests, ‘Aim for 75–78°F when you're home. If you're going to be away, raise it a few degrees to help with energy bill costs.’

Using a smart thermostat, such as the Honeywell smart thermostat, available at Best Buy, can help you keep tabs on your AC settings more easily.

2. Make sure your AC is clean

Cleaning an air conditioner is key to running your AC efficiently in a heatwave. Shelley Nytes, manager at Valentine Plumbing and Heating, urges, ‘Make sure your air vents and filters are clean so air can flow freely; blocked or dirty vents can force the system to overwork and use more energy than needed.

‘Similarly, make sure the fins on your A/C unit outside are clear of pollen, grass clippings, and other debris. Small steps like these can make a big difference in keeping your AC running efficiently and preventing breakdowns in high heat.’

To make this task easier, you can vacuum an AC system to remove dust and debris quickly. The best lightweight vacuums, such as the budget Ultenic U16 Flex vacuum from Amazon, make this cleaning tip less physically taxing.

3. ‘Pre-cool’ your home

How long it takes for an AC to cool a room depends on several factors, with the starting temperature of the room one of the most important. To prevent your AC from overheating in a heatwave, take steps to pre-cool your home. The easiest way to do this is to use blackout curtains to keep heat out.

Richie Drew, VP of operations at One Hour Heating & Cooling, explains, ‘Installing blinds or heavy curtains can substantially decrease the amount of heat that seeps into the room via the window. This is an especially important step if your room faces the sun as it rises or sets.

‘While not right for every window or room, draperies are often the most decorative and elaborate window treatments you can choose. They can also be the most helpful when it comes to staying cool in the summer.

'Your choice of fabric will make a big difference in your interior decor, but it’s what’s on the other side of the drapes that matters more for energy efficiency. Drapes with light-colored material facing out will reflect more sunlight, working to keep the room cool on hot days.’

Walmart offers a series of blackout and thermal drapes in seven colors and 10 sizes to suit any space.

4. Cool room by room

The bigger the space, the harder it is to cool. To make your AC unit more efficient in a heatwave, Dereck says, ‘Make sure nothing is blocking your vents, like furniture or curtains, and close doors to unused rooms so your AC can cool larger or more frequently used spaces more efficiently.’

5. Use fans to circulate cool air

Don’t make your AC do all the work in a heatwave. To protect the unit from overheating, use fans to cool down a room too.

Scott suggests, ‘Use ceiling and box fans to help circulate the air. Make sure that your ceiling fans are spinning counter-clockwise to push cool air downward. Use box fans in open windows during the night to help draw cooler air in.’

FAQs

Why is my AC making it hotter?

An AC that is making a home hotter may be malfunctioning or overheating, especially if you are running it on maximum power during extreme heat. It may also need servicing to remove debris, clean filters, and top up refrigerant. A HVAC service pro will be able to diagnose the issue.

What happens if an AC unit overheats?

If an air conditioner overheats, the system can become less efficient, possibly causing dangerous refrigerant leaks and eventual compressor failure. Preventing your AC unit from overheating and turning it off as soon as it starts to get too hot can protect the unit from permanent and expensive damage.

Meet the experts

It is a good idea to have an emergency home cooling kit in your home throughout summer, especially if you live in an area prone to very high temperatures or heat waves.

These kits hold everything you need to stay safe and healthy, even if your AC fails or the power goes out.

With its myriad microclimates, the list of edimentals that grow on the West Coast runs from tropical to temperate and include herbs, flowers, fruits and vegetables. If you have limited space, each will blend right in with whatever in-ground or patio garden you are currently tending. And no one will even be able to tell you’re plucking leaves or fruits from your plantings to enhance your meals.

So what are the edimentals you can expect to do well along the West Coast? We’ve spoken to regional experts to find out their suggestions for plants that offer both beauty and sustenance. Plant several of these in your yard or along your patio and you will no long have the edimentals versus bedding plants conundrum.

Edimentals explained

Denise Mullins, Director of Product Innovation for commercial plant grower Smith Gardens in Bellingham, Washington, started a production line at her company called Edimentals: The Perfect Match.

‘Our edimentals line wasn’t a new concept, it was just something edibly ornamental, which is my take on it,’ Mullins said. 'I usually mix edible flowers and vegetables and herbs together for a nice combination.’ Mullins doesn’t do this just for work, either. ‘I landscaped my entire front yard with edibles,’ she said. ‘Everything in my yard is edible.’

Edimentals are versatile and can be found in any plant category – annuals, perennials, herbs, trees and shrubs. In fact, they’ve become so in demand that plant breeders are now selecting edible plants not just for their taste and use but for the beauty they bring to gardens and patios.

Growing Conditions for West Coast Edimentals

The thing that sets the West Coast apart from the East is its network of microclimates. In fact, the climates differ enough within such small areas that Sunset magazine developed its own set of zone standards – Sunset Zones – for states from Washington to Texas and including some of the Rocky Mountain states.

For this listing we’ll concentrate on the edimentals that do well along the West Coast from Washington to southern California.

‘California has a wide climate spread, anywhere from USDA zone 4 all the way up to zone 11,’ says Janet Sluis, horticulturist and director of the Sunset Western Garden Collection.

‘Most gardens here in California are in USDA zones 9-10 and receive months of no rainfall. Consequently, we are very low water/drought focused and look to other Mediterranean climates for appropriate plant material.’

‘I can't really speak for California,’ Mullins says, ‘but for Washington and Oregon, we're cooler here. I can use a lot of cool-weather crops.’

Annual Edimentals

With cooler weather, Mullins has more of an opportunity to grow annuals for ornamental use. Some that she uses include:

Purple cabbage (Brassica oleracea var. capitata f, rubra): Denise loves the color and shape in the garden. ‘I plant it next to golden oregano (Origanum vulgare 'Aureum') or sage.

Cilantro (Coriandrum sativum) and Parsley (Petroselinum crispum): The frilly leaves and reliably green textures fill spaces within a garden and make a nice edging.

Edible flowers such as violas (Viola sp.), begonia (Begonia sp.) and dianthus (Dianthus sp.): Beautiful in the garden and on the plate.

Perennial Edimentals

For Berkeley, California-based Sluis, perennial herbs are a mainstay in the edimental landscape. ‘Rosemary comes in all shapes and sizes, and is a landscape staple here,’ she says. ‘I particularly like ‘Chef's Choice’, as it is one of the smallest culinary varieties, and works well in both containers and in ground.’

Find snips for harvesting your herbs at Target.

Other perennial herbs that Sluis recommends include:

Sage (Salvia officinalis, zones 4-10)

Thyme (Thymus vulgaris, zones 4-9)

Oregano (Origanum vulgare, zones 5-10)

Lavender (Lavandula sp., zones 5-9): Sluis says ‘Meerlo’ can take the heat and low-water conditions better than other types of lavender and has beautiful, variegated foliage.

You can find ‘Meerlo’ lavender online at Walmart.

In addition to the herbs Sluis mentions, Mullins also uses fennel (Foeniculum vulgare, zones 4-9). ‘The coloring of the bronze fennel also has a pink to it, and the color is just so right in the landscape.’

She’s also a fan of using artichokes (Cynara cardunculus, Zones 7-11) as a sculptural element. ‘It's a perennial for me, and they get huge and beautiful.’

Edible Shrubs for the West

Mullins uses swamp rose mallow (Hibiscus moscheutos, zones 5-9) as an edible flowering shrub, with its petals being used in teas.

And speaking of the mallows, okra (Abelmoschus esculentus, zones 5-11) makes for an interesting edimental in the landscape, too. She has also used grape vines as structural elements in the edimental garden.

‘There are several large shrubs and trees that offer both ornamental and edible elements to a lower-water garden,’ Sluis says. She recommends figs (Ficus carica, zones 7-10) such as the variety ‘Little Miss Figgy’ that grow to be just 3-5 ft. tall. Other less-thirsty choices for edimental shrubs and trees that Sluis suggests are:

Pomegranate (Punica granatum, zones 7-10)

Pineapple Guava (Feijoa sellowiana, zones 8-11)

Bay Laurel (Laurus nobilis, zones 8-11). Sluis recommends the compact variety ‘Baby Bay’.

Olive (Olea europaea, zones 8-11)

Live ‘Little Miss Figgy’ fig trees are available at Fast Growing Trees.

With so many flowers, herbs, shrubs and traditional vegetables to choose from, it seems like everyone could do what Mullins does and have an entirely edible and beautiful home landscape.

If that seems intimidating, start small, perhaps on your patio. To learn how to get started, read our guide on how to create a balcony herb garden, which can easily translate to any small outdoor space.

The answer is simple, quick, and affordable, too. All you need are some weather-proof composite shims, available at Amazon.

They're ideal for perfecting all of your exterior DIY projects, and cost just under $8 for a pack of 12.

The affordable and simple $8 fix to stop fences from rattling

All prices were correct at the time of publication.

First things first, what actually causes a rattling fence? As annoying as it may be, the answer couldn't be more simple: your fencing is loose from the support posts.

Joe Marchionni, owner at Amity Home Maintenance Solutions, explains, 'You'll often see rattling happening on a vinyl fence where the panels rattle around the post that secures it to the rest of the fence and the ground.

'The same idea would apply to wood fences. There are boxes that often go around metal posts, which can lead to rattling, especially if they are close to a gate that has a lot of movement.'

Enter: composite shims, available at Amazon, the easiest fix for restoring the peace in your garden.

Begin by identifying where exactly the rattling is coming from, if you're not already sure, and then simply slip a shim, or more, into the gap. Filling this space should immediately stop movement, and therefore stop rattling too. Use a hammer, such as the IRWIN Hammer available at Amazon to ensure they won't come loose.

You'll likely need to do so in more than one spot, adds Joe, who advises using wedge to 'fine-tune' the placement in a few spots.

The best part about these shims is, unlike traditional wooden shims, they're weather-proof, rot-proof, and resistant to decay, meaning you shouldn't have to replace them.

They're also pre-cut and pre-scored, making it easy to simply snap them to size, but they won't crack under pressure.

Additionally, they can also be used to level heavy appliances, furniture, countertops, sheds, plumbing, and more.

The only place they're not suitable for? Chain link garden fence ideas. As Joe explains, these usually rattle because the fence fabric isn't stretched enough, so wedges are unlikely to help when applied to connection points on terminal posts or line posts.

In this instance, it's best to call in a pro to help you with the most suitable solution.

What to shop

If you're a keen DIY-doer, you might benefit from our genius DIY tips, for making your home look beautiful on budget.

I've learned the hard way that cucumbers can go bad quickly if they aren't correctly stored, going from crisp and mellow to soggy and bitter. So, to ensure your cucumbers stay fresh for as long as possible I consulted expert gardeners to reveal their top tips for storing cucumbers. Being armed with this knowledge will make all the difference to your cucumbers' taste, texture and freshness.

How to store cucumbers

If you know how to grow cucumbers and when to plant cucumber seeds, you will likely be met with an abundant crop to store when they're ready to harvest. By learning how to store cucumbers correctly you can make the most out of your haul, whether it's from your yard or the grocery store.

1. Store cucumbers in your fridge's crisper drawer

Cucumbers are rather particular about their storage needs, prefering to be cold but with some humidity, so the crisper drawer in your fridge is the ideal spot. If. like me, you weren't aware that the crisper drawer offered more humid conditions or that cucumbers preferred a cold but slightly humid environment, this tip could really save your salad veg some shelf (or fridge) life.

Zoe Ganslaw, field manager at the Pennsylvania Horticultural Society Community Farm at Norristown Farm Park, says, 'The ideal storage temperature for cucumbers is 50-55°Fahrenheit and humid. Although your fridge is likely colder than this, placing them in the crisper drawer will help counteract the difference in temperature.'

If you're storing other produce in your crisper drawer, you can keep the area neat and tidy using containers like the Criusia 6pc Drawer Organizer Set from Amazon. I find my fridge so much easier to use when it's thoughtfully organized and prepped before I return from the store to unload.

2. Wrap whole cucumbers in paper towel, then bag them

I've noticed some people wrapping cucumbers in paper towels before storing them in the past, but now I know why. The paper towel absorbs excess moisture from the cucumbers as well as the fridge, helping to prevent them from prematurely rotting.

Tammy Sons, CEO of TN Nursery, who studied horticulture and runs a family nursery, explains: 'When it comes to storing cucumbers, I treat them like delicate flowers. I store whole cucumbers unwashed, wrapped loosely in a paper towel, and stuffed into an open produce bag in the crisper drawer. If you keep them too dry, they shrivel; if they get too wet, they rot.'

You can use plastic or paper produce bags for this, but each have something to be mindful about. If you're using plastic bags your cucumbers can sweat and excess moisture can become trapped. To counteract this, store smaller batches with plenty of paper towel and ventilation, created by keeping the bag open at the top.

If you're using paper produce bags (like these Great Value Standing Lunch Bags 100 count from Walmart) you'll need to use enough paper towel so that excess moisture won't soak through the paper bag and cause it to disintegrate or hold moisture near the cucumber. Always leave the tops open so your cucumbers can breathe.

3. If you open your fridge a lot, store cucumbers with a metal spoon

This may sound like an old wives' tale but according to the experts storing your cucumbers next to a metal spoon actually keeps them fresher for longer. This is because it can help to regulate the temperature, which is especially important if you live in a busy household where the fridge is constantly being raided for snacks.

Jessica Mercer pHD, an expert at Plant Addicts, says, 'If refrigerator doors open constantly in your household, you can buffer temperature swings by adding a metal spoon to the storage bag. Growers and produce managers say the spoon absorbs brief blasts of warm air and keeps the micro-climate around the cucumbers steady, which can buy you an extra day or two before soft spots appear.'

Any metal implement will do, but spoons are recommended as they're less likely than a knife or fork to damage the cucumber or injure you when you're grabbing it from the fridge.

4. Cover cut ends with saran wrap

You may not need to use a whole cucumber in one go. When this happens, I find the ends can end dry or discolored and need to be chopped off by the time I'm ready to use some more. The best way to avoid waste and keep cut cucumber fresh is simply by wrapping the end in saran wrap, as this preserves moisture, according to Jessica.

'Cover the cut face of your cucumber with plastic wrap or a silicone “food hugger,” re-wrap it in a paper towel, and refrigerate. Cut cucumbers stored like this will usually hold for three days before beginning to soften.'

I use the Hoan Silicone Food Hugger set of 4 available on Amazon. The set comes with four different-sized huggers, for protecting a variety of fruits and vegetables from spoiling.

5. Keep cucumber slices in an airtight container

If I'm expecting guests and want to serve salads, I like to prep my ingredients ahead of time. But, I used to find that cucumber slices would go a bit limp by the time I was ready to serve them.

I've since learned the key to keeping them in the best condition. 'When storing sliced cucumbers, I preserve them in an airtight glass container with a dry paper towel underneath,' says Tammy. 'It keeps them dry, preventing a soggy edge from forming. If you're tempted to soak them in water to keep them fresh longer, don't. Water leaches flavor and texture.'

I'm going to invest in this 24 Piece Glass Food Storage Containers Set from Amazon, perfect for keeping slices stored away neatly as well as ensuring optimal freshness.

Cucumber storage FAQs

How do I know when cucumbers are ready to pick?

Knowing when to pick cucumbers depends on two main factors: color and the size of cucumber you wish to harvest.

'Harvest your cucumbers when they reach the size you're looking for, which depends on the variety you're growing,' says Zoe. 'They should be a deep green color and feel firm and plump. If they look wrinkly or feel soft, wait a couple days before harvesting. Cucumbers require frequent harvesting since they can size up quickly, it is ideal to harvest every other day if possible.'

Why do cucumbers get bitter?

If your cucumbers taste bitter, there are many factors at play that may have altered their flavor profile.

'If cucumber plants are stressed, they produce an excess of the bitter component cucurbitacin, so any cucumbers that grow from it will naturally have a more bitter taste,' says Zoe. This stress could be caused by disease, pests, excess heat, or not enough water. They can also taste bitter if they become overripe and weren't harvested in time. One sign of a cucumber being overripe is yellowing of the skin.'

If you're looking to expand your produce garden, cucumbers are relatively simple to grow. You can grow cucumbers in pots or in the ground, so even if you don't have a large yard you can still give it a try.

I won't lie, learning how to correctly fertilize indoor plants has taken me a while to master. It's incredibly easy to unintentionally over or under-fertilize plants, a common indoor plant mistake that can hinder houseplant health and, in a worst case scenario, even kill them off.

But, don't worry. If you're new to houseplant care, fertilizing isn't as complicated as it may initially seem. You just need to understand a few basics, which I've compiled right here to help you out.

How to fertilize houseplants

If you're not aware of what fertilizing does for plants, it essentially gives plants a boost of nutrients where they have otherwise depleted from soil over time. Establishing a fertilizing routine can therefore really aid robust growth.

I find the key to knowing how to fertilize houseplants comes down to knowing when to fertilize houseplants. Getting the timing wrong could be detrimental to the health of your houseplants, so it's best to avoid this fertilizing mistake:

When I fertilize my houseplants

As a general rule, you should only fertilize houseplants during spring and summer. This is when the majority of indoor plants are actively putting on new growth and when they need the boost of essential plant nutrients most.

In fact, it's a winter houseplant care mistake to fertilize houseplants during the coldest time of year. This is because they won't soak it up as easily in summer (likewise with water) and it could actually burn roots or oversaturate the soil, leading to houseplant root rot.

On a more granular level, it's best practice to understand the fertilizing needs specific to the houseplants you have.

For example, I fertilize my monstera much more frequently (every couple of weeks) than my spider plant, which is a houseplant you don't need to fertilize often.

There aren't necessarily tell-tale signs as to whether your houseplant is a heavy feeder, so it's wise to do some research on a case-by-case scenario.

Another tip: specific houseplant fertilizers (like this monstera fertilizer from Amazon or this peace lily fertilizer from Amazon) provide insight about frequency in the manufacturer instructions.

If you're unsure, however, a general rule of thumb I recommend is fertilizing houseplants no more than every two or three weeks during spring and summer.

How I use different types of houseplant fertilizer

Another factor in understanding how to fertilize houseplants is the many types of houseplant fertilizers available.

I initially found it quite overwhelming to navigate all the options in the market, trying to find the best houseplant fertilizer. That was until I realized that each houseplant has differing needs and differing fertilizer preferences.

Not only this, but sometimes different types of fertilizer are best for helping a houseplant recover from a specific problem:

• Liquid fertilizer: This is the most common type of houseplant fertilizer on the market and perhaps the most convenient to use. You can get balanced houseplant fertilizers (from Amazon) for general use, or ones with varying plant fertilizer numbers to support more leafy or floral growth (like this indoor flower plant fertilizer from Amazon). You use a liquid fertilizer by diluting with watering and then watering houseplants as usual.
• Slow release fertilizer: This is a granular fertilizer (like this slow release houseplant fertilizer from Amazon) applied to the base of houseplants. Each time houseplants are watered, more of the fertilizer is released, gradually feeding houseplants over a longer period of time. This is a great choice to provide consistent feeding for healthy houseplants, but I've also used it to help a houseplant recover when it's looked a little weak and worse for wear after the harsher conditions of winter.
• Organic fertilizer: I find using organic fertilizer, such as coffee ground fertilizer for houseplants, is a great way to boost nutrients without chemicals. This is especially helpful when your houseplant has experienced some damage, such as yellowing foliage, and needs a source of nitrogen, for example. Likewise, banana peels are good for plants that need a boost of potassium. In cases of organic fertilizer, it's best to apply it directly to houseplant soil, around the base of the plant so roots can soak up nutrients from it as the organic matter breaks down. Of course, this is a much slower process than the instant feed of liquid fertilizer.
• Foliar fertilizer: There are also foliar houseplant fertilizers (from Amazon) which are in a mist-form, applied directly to foliage. Tiny pores in houseplant leaves absorb the fertilizer, often at a much faster rate than other fertilizers. The one downside of this, however, is sensitive foliage may become susceptible to leaf scorch when wet from foliar fertilizers and then exposed to direct sun. Nevertheless, it's a quick fix for plants struggling from nutrient deficiencies, just take care not to oversaturate the foliage.

FAQs

Can you revive houseplants from over-fertilization?

Yes, it is possible to revive houseplants from over-fertilization, but it depends on how bad the damage is. If your houseplants only have a few yellow leaves from too-frequent fertilizing, simply prune away the damaged leaves and provide optimal care, including keeping the plant hydrated and placing it in good light. You should also flush the soil to remove excess fertilizer and a build-up of salt. You may also choose to repot your houseplant with fresh potting soil. Avoid fertilizing again until the plant has recovered.

Once you've mastered the skill of feeding your houseplants, you might want to experiment with some DIY mixtures. Follow my guide to making your own orchid fertilizer, for example – a recipe that helps my orchids bloom for longer.

Don't forget these essentials for your houseplant care kit

Cleaning pros know that the key to effective and safe outdoor maintenance lies in preparation, the right tools, and proper technique.

We've compiled a list of 13 common outdoor sanitizing mistakes, along with tips on avoiding issues with your outdoor cleaning tasks so your home's exterior stays beautiful, well-maintained, and without any nasty surprises.

1. Skipping safety measures

Many homeowners jump into outdoor cleaning without considering essential safety precautions, including wearing protective gear. This oversight can lead to accidents or exposure to harmful substances.

Karina Toner, operations manager at Spekless Cleaning, says, 'Some cleaning tasks seem less dangerous than they really are. Safety steps can often feel like an unnecessary hassle when you’re trying to get something done quickly. But skipping them can come at a high cost. Injuries from falls, chemical exposure, or tool mishandling are more common than you'd think.

'For example, when you're using common cleaning agents, it's easy to assume gloves or eye protection aren't really needed, but even mild solutions can irritate skin or eyes. And when cleaning high areas, I often see people just grab a ladder and get to work, without double-checking its placement or having someone nearby to help.

'Whether it's putting on a protective mask or stabilizing ladders, always build in a few extra minutes to prep safely. And before using any cleaner, actually read the full label & heed warnings and precautions. Most injuries are preventable, and taking small, consistent safety steps makes all the difference.'

The RBLCXG Store Half Face Mask from Amazon offers great protection for a range of debris from summer tasks, including during the cleaning of your patio or weekend DIY projects. It also comes with a pair of safety glasses.

Toner also recommends the Orbit Telescoping Gutter Cleaning Wand from Amazon, adding, 'It has great reach and water pressure control, so you can clean safely from the ground, with no need for any wobbly ladders.'

2. Selecting the wrong tools

With so many essential DIY tools out there, using tools that aren't suited for the specific cleaning task or surface is a common misstep, leading to ineffective cleaning or damage.

Toner says, 'With so many brushes, scrubbers, sprayers, and nozzles out there, it’s easy to assume that anything 'roughly close' will do the job. Sometimes it's a matter of convenience, grabbing what’s already on hand, and other times it’s just not knowing that a certain surface calls for a gentler touch.

However, using the wrong tools can leave scratches, cause unnecessary wear, or lead to a frustratingly ineffective clean that wastes both time and effort.

'Say someone uses a stiff wire brush to clean a composite deck. It might feel like it’s getting the grime off faster, but it’s actually damaging the protective layer and leaving behind grooves that trap even more dirt. Or using a pressure washer with the wrong nozzle on patio cushions – it can shred fabric or force water deep into the foam, leading to mildew.'

Instead, Toner advises matching your tools to the surface and task. She says, 'Opt for soft bristle brushes for cleaning outdoor furniture with delicate materials or wood siding, stiffer ones for concrete or stone. When in doubt, test a small area first before going all-in.

'And when it comes to powered tools or washers, always check the manufacturer’s guidelines for different surfaces and settings.' This will help you avoid a cleaning mistake you later regret, and have to spend money fixing.

Toner recommends OXO Good Grips Deep Clean Brush Set, available from Amazon, adding, 'It's great for getting into tight spaces like grout lines, sliding door tracks, and outdoor furniture seams without scratching. This set includes both a large and small brush with firm, angled bristles, perfect for many different outdoor areas.'

3. Overusing a pressure washer

While powerful, a pressure washer is often misused, leading to significant damage on delicate surfaces like wood, vinyl siding, or even mortar joints.

Lina DaSilva, founder of Toronto Shine Cleaning, says, 'Overuse of a pressure washer often happens because people see it as a quick and powerful solution for any dirty surface.

'However, not everyone understands the different pressure settings, such as the types of nozzles or how different materials react to the intense force of the water. The wrong settings can easily remove paint, scratch wood, erode concrete, break window seals or force water behind siding, leading to mold and rot.

'One very common scenario is using a pressure washer on a wooden deck or fence at too high a pressure. People think they're getting the wood super clean, but actually the intense jet of water is tearing the wood fibers. This can leave 'zebra stripes' or make the surface of the wood fuzzy and splintery. Even if it looks clean at first, the moisture can accelerate the growth of rot and mold from within!'

There are other ways to clean a deck without a pressure washer, and many things you should never clean with a pressure washer.

If you're at all unsure, DaSliva suggests beginning with the lowest pressure possible, and using the Tool Daily Foam Cannon from Amazon. She adds, 'This fits onto the pressure washer and allows you to apply a good layer of detergent over the surface. This action does a very good job of loosening dirt and grime, which means you can rinse with much less pressure.'

4. Cleaning in direct sunlight

Attempting to clean surfaces in direct, hot sunlight is a frequent mistake that can leave unsightly streaks and residue. People with clean windows always avoid the sun.

Toner says, 'It’s easy to assume that a bright, sunny day is the best time to tackle outdoor cleaning. The weather’s nice, there’s good visibility, and things seem like they’ll dry faster.

But sometimes, that’s exactly the problem: some cleaning solutions start evaporating before they’ve had time to work. This can lead to residue buildup, uneven finishes, or even permanent marks. It's best to steer clear if you want to clean windows without streaks, for example.

'One of the most common cases is on exterior windows. On a hot, sunny day, you’re more likely to end up with streaks and water spots than sparkling glass. The cleaner dries too fast, leaving behind a cloudy film, no matter how well you wipe.

'Instead, plan your cleaning window (pun intended!) ahead of time. Aim for early morning, late afternoon, or even slightly overcast days for anything that needs time to soak, dwell, or rinse clean, like windows, patio siding, or painted surfaces. Timing is everything.'

Toner recommends Invisible Glass Premium Glass Cleaner from Amazon, adding, 'It's streak-free even in trickier conditions, but works best when applied in cooler times of day.'

5. Forgetting to rinse surfaces

A common oversight is failing to thoroughly rinse off cleaning solutions, leaving behind chemical residues that can attract dirt, damage surfaces over time, or create slippery spots.

Wells Ye, founder of Fresh Tech Maid, says, 'In the satisfaction of seeing dirt disappear, many people forget that cleaning solutions need to be completely removed. Leftover products can leave residues that attract dirt faster than before.

'A soapy patio is a good example – it turns sticky and slippery if not rinsed, posing safety risks. Instead, you want to rinse thoroughly using a hose or pressure washer with a wide-angle.'

Ye recommends the Greenworks 1500 PSI Electric Pressure Washer, available from Walmart, adding, 'It's lightweight and highly efficient for rinse cycles.'

Rinsing properly will stand you in good stead when the cooler months arrive, and you're left tackling moss on your patio.

6. Forgetting to dry your deck

After cleaning a wooden deck, many homeowners neglect the important step of allowing it to properly dry before applying sealants or bringing your furniture back. Trapped moisture can lead to mold, mildew, and warping.

Ye says, 'After the satisfaction of cleaning, many people simply pack up their equipment and leave wet surfaces to air dry. However, standing water on decking can lead to water spots, streaking, and can reverse some of your cleaning efforts by allowing dirt and debris to resettle on the wet surface. A damp deck may grow slippery moss within days, posing a slip hazard.'

Instead, Ye recommends using towels or a leaf blower to ensure surfaces are fully dry. The Leisch Cordless Leaf Blower from Amazon is one of the most affordable on the market and has a rechargeable battery. Lightweight and with adjustable speeds, the Greenworks 40V Leaf Blower from Amazon is also a popular option to make your driveway look more inviting.

Our look at the many surprising but useful uses for a leaf blower has more tips and tricks to making use of this essential tool year-round.

7. Using incorrect cleaning techniques

Improper techniques, such as scrubbing in circles on wood grain or cleaning sections inconsistently, can lead to uneven results, streaking, or even permanent marks. Methodical application is key for a professional finish.

Cleaning expert Jessica Gonzalez, chief operating officer at Sparkly Maid San Antonio, says, 'Using the wrong scrub brush or applying too much force can ruin outside surfaces. I've seen people destroy painted patio sets or scratch stone trying to scrape the dirt off, when all it needed was the proper product and some patience.

'My simple rule is this: let the cleaner sit, loosen the grime, and get the lion's share of the work done before scrubbing.'

Gonzalez recommends Krud Kutter Exterior Cleaner from Walmart, adding, 'It's tough on grime, but a cinch to rinse out without too much elbow grease.'

8. Neglecting the house exterior

Many homeowners focus solely on patios or driveways, neglecting the house exterior itself, which accumulates dirt, mildew, and pollutants. Over time, this buildup can degrade siding materials and diminish curb appeal.

Gonzalez says, 'The outside of the home typically falls by the wayside, particularly around door frames, window sills, siding, and even porch lights. We commonly notice heavy dust and cobwebs that individuals no longer notice over time.

'A simple monthly washing with a hose and a soft-bristled brush can avoid accumulation. You don't have to spend money on advanced tools, just something soft and long-handled to access those higher zones and maintain things.'

With a 6-ft reach, the Swiffer Dusters Heavy Duty Super Extendable Handle Dusting Kit from Target is ideal for getting to those hard-to-reach spots on the outside of your home.

You can also prevent faucets freezing and avoid potential pipe bursts during cold snaps by installing faucet covers and wrapping exposed pipes. Toner adds, 'This Frost King Outdoor Faucet Cover from Amazon is great. It comes in a four-pack, is easy to install, and it protects faucets from freezing temperatures.'

9. Not using guards

When trimming hedges or using string trimmers near structures, forgetting to use appropriate guards can lead to accidental damage to siding, fences, or garden features. Overspray from pressure washers can also prove an issue.

Ye says, 'Many people don't realize that surrounding landscaping, windows, and adjacent surfaces need protection during cleaning. Overspray from cleaning solutions and pressure washers can damage plants, etch glass, or stain nearby surfaces, for example, creating additional problems that are often more expensive to fix than the original cleaning project.

'Instead, use guards or shields around nozzles and keep nearby items covered. The Sun Joe SPX-TLTB Turbo Lance with Splash Guard Brush from Amazon perfectly controls the spray pattern and prevents overspray.'

10. Not checking for cracks

While cleaning your patio is among the top outdoor cleaning tasks to do right now, failing to inspect for cracks or damage first is a significant mistake. Cleaning can worsen these issues, or sealing over them can trap moisture and accelerate decay.

Axel Avery, professional cleaner at Oakville Maids, says, 'Not checking for cracks is a really common mistake – both around the house exterior, and on patios. Most decks and sidings are made from wood, so if you clean them with your pressure washer, water will seep through any cracks and make things worse.'

Avery recommends Bondo Wood Filler from Amazon, adding, 'This wood filler works quickly and – after sanding and painting – will create a sturdy barrier against water and mold. Fill the cracks using a putty knife, wait 30 minutes, sand down the excess, prime and paint. Finally, let it sit overnight before cleaning.'

Inspecting and sealing gaps around your home prevents drafts and leaks. It's also vital for preventing mice from getting in, as well as other common indoor pests.

Start by sealing any cracks around doors, windows, vents, and the foundation. Combine Gorilla Waterproof Caulk & Seal Silicone Sealant from Walmart with the Red Devil Extreme Duty Caulk Gun, available from Amazon, which has an ergonomic rubber trigger.

11. Overlooking sealing maintenance

Neglecting to re-seal outdoor surfaces such as concrete, pavers, or wood decks allows moisture, dirt, and UV rays to penetrate, leading to faster deterioration, staining, and costly repairs down the line.

Ye says, 'Many people focus solely on the cleaning aspect without considering the protective treatments that keep surfaces looking good longer. Failing to maintain sealers and protective coatings means that future cleaning will be more difficult and surfaces will be more susceptible to permanent damage.'

Instead, apply a quality sealant after drying, especially for decks and pavers. Ye recommends Thompson’s WaterSeal Wood Protector from Amazon, adding, 'This is a reliable product that prevents water and sun damage on wood.'

For driveways, MasonryDefender Store's Concrete Sealer from Amazon protects against pitting and cracking, while for asphalt, Black Jack Drive-Maxx Sealer from Walmart is a reliable option.

12. Using harsh chemicals

Opting for overly strong or abrasive chemicals, such as undiluted bleach or industrial-strength degreasers, without understanding their impact can severely damage plants, discolor surfaces, or pose health risks.

Gonzalez says, 'Strong cleaners are dangerous for surfaces and will kill plants with no notice. I've even visited a home where someone applied full-strength bleach to his patio and ended up with burned grass, stained rock, and an odor that persisted for days.'

Gonzalez advises avoiding bleach, opting instead for milder, effective cleaners, and following dilution instructions carefully. Always test products on an inconspicuous area first.

13. Neglecting regular maintenance

The biggest mistake is often simply neglecting regular outdoor cleaning and the tasks on your outdoor maintenance calendar. Allowing dirt, mildew, and debris to build up over time makes subsequent cleaning much harder and can lead to permanent staining or damage.

Toner says, 'Most outdoor cleaning is reactive – we often notice dirt, mildew, or buildup after it’s a problem, and then scramble to fix it. Regular maintenance feels optional, or like something you’ll just “get to next time”. But without it, grime sets in deeper, damage goes unnoticed, and you’re left with bigger, more expensive clean-up jobs later on.

'Take outdoor furniture, for example: if cushions aren’t brushed off and stored properly between uses or seasons, they start to grow mildew or fade from sun exposure.

'Or cleaning concrete floors outside: Ignoring routine sweeping and rinsing lets organic debris break down into stains that become stubborn over time. These surfaces then need more aggressive treatment later, which can wear them down faster.'

Instead, change up your cleaning approach by creating an achievable cleaning routine that includes the outdoors.

Alternatively, Avery recommends this Editable Cleaning Schedule from Etsy, adding, 'Don't wait for the perfect time to do these tasks, as it won't arrive. This schedule is great if you're a visual person – just print it out and pop it on your fridge door.

'You can choose between one that’s already full or an empty one to customize. Place outdoor cleaning tasks under the monthly or quarterly sections.'

Meet the experts

So there you have it – 13 outdoor cleaning mistakes, and what to do instead. By being mindful of these common mistakes and incorporating our expert advice into your routine, you can more easily maintain the long-term beauty and health of your home.

Next, explore new front yard paving ideas.

To keep my cushions ready to go whenever I am, I’m splurging on this multi-functional waterproof outdoor cushion storage bench from Amazon.

This outdoor storage idea for small yards is the perfect addition, and will keep my cushions dry when not in use, whilst doubling up as handy extra seating for guests, negating the need for me to commit to extra seats I won’t often need.

Why an outdoor cushion storage bench is a winner

I sifted through hundreds of listings across multiple retailers and settled on the one above for its versatility, reasonable price and high-quality materials.

Crucially, the box is lockable so if you want to stick anything else in there, instead of having to traipse to your dusty shed, or the garage, it’s right on hand. Plus, you won’t get said hand caught in the lid, as it has hydraulics for slow and safe opening and closing of the lid.

The roomy Amazon outdoor storage bench, which doubles up as comfy seating for guests, is the perfect solution for sudden summer showers. It’s made of high-density waterproof resin, is fade-resistant, and in an imitation rattan pattern (a popular outdoor decorating trend) to help it blend in with other backyard storage ideas, rather than sticking out like a sore thumb.

The cushion it comes with is waterproof, and the resin is crack- and rust-proof. More than 5000 shoppers have rated it, giving it an average of 4.4/5 stars.

Verified shopper Taryn T, says it's 'spacious, sleek and truly waterproof.' She explains further in her review, 'This deck box fits everything, from pool towels and floaties to gardening tools, and keeps it all dry during Oregon downpours.

'It was simple to assemble (took me under 30 minutes solo), and the lid has a smooth hydraulic lift that feels more premium than I expected at this price point. Bonus points: it doubles as extra seating on our patio. If you want functional outdoor storage that doesn’t look bulky, this is it.'

Similarly, this box will serve you well as a porch storage idea, in case you need to keep firewood, or other outdoor items handy, such as walking boots or dog leads, but out of reach of pests and opportunistic thieves.

It's the perfect fix for my predicament. I am disabled, with limited mobility and high pain, so I often don't leave the house for three weeks at a time. It can send me a little stir crazy, which is why my small patio setup is so vital for my well-being.

That's why I’ve had enough of my beautiful, thick outdoor cushions getting drenched and being out of action for days at a time till they dry off. I do have waterproof furniture covers available at Walmart, but often, if I’ve sat outside for a morning cup of joe or my lunch break, and expect I’ll be back out there within a few hours, I’ve left the covers off.

Enter: Sudden rain clouds to ruin my day and soak through my outdoor cushions, which can be cleaned, but let’s face it, who actually has the time?

A waterproof storage bin for my cushions is the perfect answer.

What to shop

All prices were correct at time of publication.

Next, learn how to clean your white outdoor cushions, clean your patio, and clean your grill, ready for a summer of hosting and fun.

Good news: I’ve been scrolling through the early Amazon Prime Day deals and I found a GreenPan skillet from the 'Reserve' line on clearance. It doesn't have the celeb name attached, but it offers the same diamond-infused, non-toxic surface and similarly stylish touches for $150 less. Here's my take as a kitchen appliances editor who has tested the GreenPan range and Stanley Tucci's pan, too.

What's the difference?

At a glance, the GreenPan skillet from the Reserve collection and the Stanley Tucci x GreenPan 12-inch skillet appear very similar. Both pans come with tempered glass lids, gold-toned, steel handles and PFAS-free materials. The main difference is that the cheaper option is not induction compatible, which is only an issue if you have an induction hob.

In terms of nonstick performance, both skillets use diamond-infused ceramic coatings that are free from PFAS, PFOA, lead, and cadmium – ideal for those looking to avoid toxic chemicals in their cookware.

The brand markets itself as the inventors of PFAS-free non-stick. When I tested GreenPan’s Thermolon™ coating on their Premiere line, I found it impressively slick and easy to clean – and the same was true when I tested the Stanley Pan.

The differences, however, come down to design, stovetop compatibility, and durability. The cheaper GreenPan skillet is not induction compatible, so you can only use it on gas or electric stoves.

Stanley’s GreenPan skillet is compatible with all kinds of stove, and is optimized for induction. It also has taller, more rounded sides, giving it a deeper profile. This makes it a much more versatile option for family kitchens. In my tests, I used it on my induction hob to shallow fry chicken schnitzel and create a creamy Alfredo pasta for a crowd.

But, the price is the biggest differentiator. Stanley Tucci’s skillet from Willams Sonoma retails for around $219 at Williams Sonoma, while the less glamorous GreenPan Reserve Skillet is currently on clearance for just over $60 at Amazon.

Which pan should you pick?

If you love the Italian glamour of the Stanley Tucci x GreenPan skillet, there’s no doubt it’s a feel-good purchase, especially for anyone who wants to leave their pan out as a decor statement. And if you have an induction hob, this pan will work beautifully.

If you’re shopping with a more practical mindset (or simply can’t resist a good deal), the GreenPan skillet in the Amazon sales offers nearly all the same specs – including diamond-infused coating, beautiful gold accents, and PFAS-free peace of mind – at a fraction of the price. Just note: it’s not induction compatible.

My top picks from the GreenPan sale

If you still need more guidance on what type of pan and cookware material is right for you, I recommend starting with my guide to the best non-toxic cookware – which covers the pros and cons of quality stainless steel, ceramic non-stick, enamel cast iron, copper coated cookware and even the most heavy duty, raw cast iron cookware, too.

Summer provides ideal conditions for many pests that destroy plants to thrive, and unfortunately ornamental and edible plants alike fall victim to their attack. From tiny sap-sucking insects to more obvious leaf munchers, there are a few summer garden pests gardeners battle with every year.

But, with a few tips and tricks up your sleeve, you can easily tackle pest problems head on and keep your summer garden looking its best by getting rid of pests as soon as you see them. Here, pest control experts share five pests to look out for at this time of year, alongside tips on what to do when you spot them.

5 summer garden pests to watch out for

Just like spring garden pests and winter garden pests, destructive insects are sometimes difficult to spot. By examining the foliage of your plants regularly, particularly the underside of leaves where pests often hide, you can jump on pest problems early and keep your plants safe and healthy. Here are top tips from pest control experts:

1. Aphids

Every gardener will inevitably have to get rid of aphids at some point or another. These common pests don't discriminate when it comes to the type of plants they target, so it's essential to quickly control aphid populations if you spot any in your yard.

They're identifiable as soft body, green, black, red, or yellow insects that tend to be found in clusters on the tips of plants. They're sap-sucking insects that can stunt plant growth and leave foliage wilting and yellowing.

'One of the tricks in controlling aphids is to control ants,' says Dr. Tracy Ellis, an entomologist at FarmSense.

This is because ants and aphids have a symbiotic relationship where ants 'farm' aphids for their honeydew, keeping them safe from predators in return.

'This sugary honeydew is a valuable resource for many ants who prevent the aphids from being attacked by their natural enemies such as ladybugs, syrphid flies or parasitic wasps,' Tracy explains.

'Getting rid of ants leaves the aphids vulnerable,' she adds.

You can also physically remove aphids, such as blasting them with water. Or, you can choose to use chemical options, such as insecticidal soap (from Amazon).

'Avoid spraying broad-spectrum insecticides, which can disrupt beneficial insect populations,' Tracy notes.

Another way to control aphids is by enlisting the help of natural predators that eat aphids. You can purchase ladybugs from Amazon for this purpose.

2. Red lily beetles

If you grow lilies in your yard, as well as fritillaries, keep an eye out for red lily beetle this summer. They're quite obvious to spot, bright red in color and measuring six to nine millimetres.

'They are bright red, sneaky, and ruthless, they skeletonize lilies in days,' says Nicole Carpenter pest control expert and President of Black Pest Prevention.

'Manually check daily and crush the adults and check leaf undersides for orange eggs. The larvae cover themselves in excrement as camouflage. Wipe them off and dispose,' she advises.

Other methods to control lily beetle populations include using neem oil (from Amazon). Neem oil on plants disrupt pest development and feeding. It can also help manage plant fungal problems.

'Neem oil works if applied early in the season. After larvae hatch, it's less effective,' Nicole describes.

It's also wise to plant lily plants away from fritillaries to reduce the spread of lily beetles.

3. Mealybugs

Mealybugs are also common summer garden pests to watch out for this season. Citrus trees, grape vines, and ornamental shrubs are particular favorites among mealybugs.

'Mealybugs, like aphids, secrete sugary honeydew that is a resource protected by ants. Controlling ants allows beneficial insects to make an impact,' Tracy says. 'In the interim, hand removal combined with insecticidal soap according to label directions will suppress populations,' she adds.

Insecticidal soap (available at Walmart) is an effective way to get rid of mealybugs. It essential dries them out and suffocates them.

'Mealybug populations can unexpectedly explode because they generally start in the nooks and crannies of growing tissue and take advantage of any new growth where inspection should focus,' Tracy says.

'Mealybugs may leave scars and obliterate certain vulnerable plants; locate and remove the most impacted plants from the garden and solarize them before adding to the homemade compost pile,' she advises.

Solarizing is a good way to combat mealybugs: 'Solarizing to destroy the insects is achieved by sealing the infested plant(s) in a plastic bag, leaving it in the sun usually for several days until the temperature exceeds 105°F,' Tracy describes.

4. Spider mites

Spider mites can be harder to spot, due to their tiny size. Cobwebs with little red dots are the giveaway.

These pests are a particular nuisance in kitchen gardens, feeding on beans, cucumbers, melons, and more. They can also take up residence indoors, as spider mites on houseplants is also a common problem.

'Spider mites thrive in hot, dry dusty conditions; therefore changing the conditions by high washing of the plant with insecticidal soap, increasing the humidity may help bring the population down to tolerable levels until the season is over,' Tracy suggests.

Blasting the affected plant with water can also help get rid of spider mites, especially if it's only a small infestation.

'If you have a chronic spider mite problem, such as on your tomatoes every year, you should consider purchasing and releasing mite predators throughout the season to promote beneficial predator establishment,' Tracy suggests.

Phytoseiulus persimilis is thought to be the most effective spider mite predator. You can actually purchase Phytoseiulus persimilis from Amazon to apply to your affected plants.

5. Tomato hornworms

If you grow tomatoes every year, then tomato hornworms are the summer garden pests you'll want to regularly check for among your crops.

'These are big, green caterpillars that strip tomato plants overnight,' describes Nicole. 'Pick them off and let braconid wasps finish your work (leave any with white cocoons),' she advises.

Handpicking is perhaps the most effective way to get rid of tomato hornworms, although it is time-consuming. Once picked off, place them in a bucket of soapy water to dehydrate and suffocate them.

You can also control tomato hornworm populations by applying Bacillus thuringiensis (from Amazon) to the foliage of your tomatoes. This contains beneficial bacteria that targets caterpillar insects.

You can also encourage natural predators and other beneficial insects to take care of this pest problem by opting for tomato companion plants like marigolds.

FAQs

How do you protect crops from deer and rabbits in summer?

To protect crops from deer and rabbits in summer, consider putting physical barriers in place. This includes chicken wire cloches (from Amazon) or even growing crops in a greenhouse. You can also place pest-repellent plants nearby, such as lavender and rosemary, which have strong scents these animals find unpleasant. Another method involves installing an ultrasonic animal repellent (from Amazon) to deter them from the area.

There are lots of things you can put in place to deter these pests as a precaution. For example, use spices that deter common garden pests or fragrant plants that repel many pests. The below pest control kit can also help you protect your garden plants this summer:

Shop pest control essentials

Although made from paper rather than plastic, paper towels are a big part of the single-use waste problem and are not as efficient for cleaning and disinfecting a kitchen as you might initially think.

As a result, professional cleaner Karina Toner long ago ditched them for good. What does she use to clean a kitchen instead? The hardy, humble and helpful microfiber cloth.

Swapping paper towels for microfiber cloths

According to environmental studies, paper production is responsible for the felling of around 270 million trees annually (that’s 35% of all harvested trees), resulting in huge losses of natural habitats and an acceleration of climate change.

What’s more, the processes needed to harvest and manufacture paper towels are highly water-intensive and pollutants are released into waterways. Whilst it's easy to think paper towels are a non-toxic cleaning product, the bigger picture shows they are not all that good for the planet.

Additionally, relying on paper towels alone is one of the biggest home cleaning mistakes, making chores harder, experts say.

Karina Toner, professional cleaner and operations manager at Spekless Cleaning, shares, ‘If you’re still relying on paper towels for everyday cleaning, you’re definitely not alone. They’re convenient, familiar, and always seem to be within reach.

'But here’s the thing: once you try high-quality microfiber cloths, it’s hard not to notice the difference. It’s a simple swap that saves time, money, and a whole lot of waste without sacrificing results.’

Karina continues, ‘Microfiber isn’t just your regular fabric; it’s engineered for cleaning. The ultra-fine fibers grab onto dirt, grease, and bacteria instead of just pushing them around like a paper towel. Plus, they’re absorbent enough to soak up several times their weight in water, so you’ll use fewer passes and leave less behind.’

As a result, Karina says, you achieve a streak-free shine when cleaning windows, adding, ‘It works great on glass, mirrors, and stainless steel; no lint, no smudges, no second wipe needed.’

The best bit? Microfiber is machine washable and durable enough to last through hundreds of washes, she adds, which means fewer rolls of paper towels in your cart (and your trash bin!).

Just made sure you do not wash them with items that might snag, such as jeans or clothing with zippers.

How to use microfiber cloths correctly

There are several ways to use microfiber cloths beyond dusting, and luckily, microfiber cloths are easy to integrate into your existing cleaning routine. That being said, it is important to avoid some common cloth mistakes to prevent cross-contamination.

Karina urges, ‘Use different cloths for different tasks to avoid cross-contamination: one for glass, one for the kitchen, one for the bathroom. For best results, lightly dampen the cloth before use, especially on reflective surfaces, and fold it into quarters. This gives you multiple clean sides to work with before needing to rinse or swap.’

Most multipacks, such as a 50-pack of microfiber cloths from Amazon, are brightly colored in distinct hues for exactly this reason. Head of Solves, Punteha van Terheyden says, 'I allocated one color to each of the three bathrooms, and my kitchen, so everyone in the household knows where to put the cleaning cloths away, and which ones to use where. I keep a stack in each space so I always have one on hand to use.'

This technique will help you avoid giving in and buying paper towels for convenience.

Finally, make sure to wash microfiber clothes correctly. Karina advises, ‘Skip the fabric softener when laundering as it clogs the fibres and affects its cleaning performance. Just toss in the wash with mild detergent [such as Tide Free & Gentle, from Walmart] and air dry or tumble on low. Similarly, store them correctly between uses, letting cloths dry completely to avoid mildew or odour build-up.’

Always skip the fabric softener to maintain microfiber cloths' ability to soak up water.

What to shop

When fleshing out your cleaning supplies checklist, be sure to pick the right microfiber cloths for your home. Not all are made equal, Karina warns. ‘Some are thin or less absorbent, so be on the lookout for tightly woven, high-density cloths for the best results.’

Karina also suggests color-coding cleaning, helping to prevent contamination. ‘Color-coding by room or task keeps things hygienic and helps your routine feel more dialled-in.’

Meet the expert

When creating a non-toxic home through reusable cleaning supplies, take the time to organize cleaning supplies and dispose of any products containing harsh chemicals.

Opt for plant- and mineral-based products instead, such as the EWG-approved Attitude cleaning sprays, from Walmart, for a healthier home.

However, using coffee grounds in the garden doesn't mean throwing it around with wild abandon. In fact, applying it in the wrong places, and in the wrong way, can have problematic results for your plants – so it's worth doing your research before you try it.

Below, you’ll find essential info on plants that hate coffee grounds, where to avoid putting coffee grounds in your yard, alongside plenty of expert insights. You'll also find tips on how to use it for the best results.

On your annual vegetable garden

If you're tending to an annual vegetable garden this year, you may be tempted to add coffee grounds directly to the soil in the hope it will give them a boost. However, Kiera Jekos, a garden designer and educator at Gardenwell, doesn't recommend it.

Kiera explains that while it’s true that coffee grounds contain nitrogen, your plants can’t use it right away.

Gail Pabst, a horticulturist from the National Garden Bureau, says the nitrogen needs to undergo a process of decomposition and microbial activity before it can be released in a form plants can absorb.

'In fact, this decomposition process can actually be detrimental to your plants,' she says. 'As microbes work to break down the coffee grounds, they will compete for existing nitrogen in the soil, potentially depleting it rather than adding to it.' In other words, Kiera says this can rob leafy greens of what they need to thrive.

Also, the fine texture of coffee grounds makes them prone to clumping, Kiera adds. 'When applied directly, they can form a dense layer that repels water and limits airflow, which are two things your vegetable garden absolutely needs for healthy roots and soil life.'

What's more, Kiera notes how coffee contains trace allelopathic compounds, such as caffeine, that can interfere with germination and early root growth. 'Many of our quick-growing veggies, like lettuce, are quite sensitive to these chemicals.'

On hydrangeas to try and change their color

Used coffee grounds are often regarded as acidic. With this in mind, you may be tempted to use them around hydrangeas to alter the soil pH and, in turn, change the color of the blooms.

However, the idea that this works is a mere hydrangea-growing myth. According to Gail, once brewed, coffee grounds are actually much closer to pH neutral, typically falling between 6.5 and 6.8. 'This means they won't make your soil more acidic, as many might believe,' she says.

Riley Westbrook, founder of Valor Coffee, has studied coffee from every angle and is also a keen gardener. He tried applying coffee grounds to a blue hydrangea once, hoping the acidity would deepen the color, but the result was the opposite of healthy.

'The leaves curled, the blooms browned early, and the soil stayed too wet for too long,' he says. 'That heavy layer of grounds sealed the surface and held moisture, which stressed the roots and invited fungus.' It took weeks to reverse the damage, he adds.

Top tip: Instead of trying to change the color of your hydrangeas with coffee grounds, consider using a commercial product such as Grow More's hydrangea blueing formula, available from Amazon.

On Mediterranean herbs, and other plants that love well-draining soil

Riley also warns against using coffee grounds on plants that require well-draining soil, such as Mediterranean herbs (think lavender, rosemary, thyme, and sage). When you load their root zone with wet, compacted organic matter like coffee grounds, you create the opposite of what they need, he says.

'Their growth slows, their leaves yellow, and in some cases, the roots begin to rot from sitting in too much moisture. I have seen lavender collapse within weeks when someone layered thick coffee grounds as mulch.'

On this note, you may also want to steer clear of using coffee grounds directly on desert plants, such as succulents.

FAQs

What is the best way to use coffee grounds in the garden?

'While coffee grounds do contain some nutrients, they don't provide a well-balanced profile that plants require for optimal growth when used alone,' points out Gail.

She says the most effective and beneficial way to use them for your garden is by adding them to your compost pile. 'When incorporated into compost, coffee grounds contribute valuable organic matter and aid in the overall decomposition process. This indirect method allows the nitrogen and other nutrients to be released gradually and in a plant-available form as part of a balanced compost, ultimately contributing to healthier soil and better plant growth.'

Kiera also commends them as a fantastic addition to the compost pile. 'Once broken down, the finished compost can be added throughout the growing season.'

What can you use as a mulch instead of coffee grounds?

Using a layer of coffee grounds as a mulch can prevent water from getting to the soil, which isn't good for your plants. Instead, consider using homemade compost or leaf mold – the latter being a great way to put fallen leaves to good use.

Looking for more advice on sustainable gardening ideas? There are lots of natural fertilizers you can make at home to help your plants thrive – including compost tea. And if you're making your own compost, it's also a good idea to read up on composting mistakes to get the most from your efforts.

You may have a few tricks already up your sleeve for protecting plants in a heatwave, but some flowers need more attention in a heatwave and simply need us to provide physical shade from the blazing sun. This is where our old bedsheets come into play, as a modest but massively effective method of providing protection for our blooms.

Here's how your old bedsheets can save your garden from the searing heat this summer.

Why using bed sheets to protect plants from heat works

Old bedsheets are a perfect way to provide shelter, shade, and protection for your plants.

'During a heatwave, the combination of extreme heat, low humidity, and high sun exposure can cause several serious issues,' says gardening and preserving coach Robin Phelps.

'Wilting and leaf scorch, burned or faded blooms, accelerated water loss, leading to root stress, delayed or stunted growth, and soil compaction and crusting make water absorption harder. Even hardy, well-established plants will suffer when temperatures spike above 90°F (32°C) for extended periods.'

'A top tip for gardeners is to use old bedsheets to provide much-needed shade and protect delicate plants from peak sun.'

'During a heatwave, focus on keeping your garden hydrated, shaded, and stress-free. A little extra care can help your favorite flowers bounce back strong when cooler weather returns.' Robin explains.

How to use bed sheets to protect plants from heat

This garden idea is just as simple as it sounds, although it's probably wise to locate an old bedsheet you don't mind getting mucky.

Ensure the bed sheet is big enough to cover the area you want it to protect, and bear in mind the orientation of your yard. If your yard is south-facing, then you will be exposed to the most intense sunshine for the longest period. In which case, you may need to keep the sheet in place all day long for maximum protection.

If your yard is east-facing, then it will be exposed to intense sunlight in the morning hours, so you might find that you can remove the sheet (if you find it unsightly) by lunchtime.

The idea is to use the sheet as a barrier from the sun, so identify which way the sun shines into your yard, and use the sheet to block it. Blocking the hottest and most intense hours of sun is particularly important, and this will vary from yard to yard. Needless to say, if you skip this step, the whole exercise is somewhat futile (other than being a great laundry hack).

Don't physically cover your plants and flowers with the sheet; if the sheet is in direct contact with plants, it will cause them to heat up and may do more of a hindrance than a help. Instead, lay the sheets over a structure of some sort so it acts as a barrier and a makeshift shade cloth.

You can drape sheets over anything you have to hand in the garden, like garden stakes, pole bean teepees, or tomato cages.

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Shrubs, in particular, can be problematic. You grow them for height and structure in the borders, and suddenly, in the blink of an eye, they’re spreading, suckering or throwing up seedlings in your neighbor's yard. Or, on a more aesthetic note, tastes may change. Take Japanese laurel, for instance. I used to admire its gold-flecked foliage. Now it just screams car lot planting to me.

Of course, your experience might be entirely different, and that’s fine. In the right space, some of these shrubs might behave well and look beautiful. But if you’re after one gardener’s honest opinion, or perhaps a gentle moan, here are five plants I will never grow again.

5 shrubs I’ll never grow again

As you learn and grow as a gardener, you might regret past decisions. From invasive trees to invasive bulbs, ugly climbers to perennials with a foul odour, some species that once appealed might become a curse.

The good thing about gardening, however, is that nothing (really) is ever permanent, and you can always take action to remove or replant an area.

Here are five shrubs I'll never grow again, and alternatives I now prefer after a decade working in private and public gardens across Europe.

1. Fatsia

One of the shrubs I’ll never grow again is the paperplant, or Fatsia japonica. Yes, it is an evergreen shrub that is tough and reliable, but I have grown tired of its large, glossy palmate leaves.

Sure, if you enjoy tropical plants or want to include large-leaf specimens in your yard, you might disagree, but for me, this is a shrub that won't be making its way back into my good books.

And, beyond aesthetics, Fatsia japonica can be a little unruly, too. Once established, it can become a little dominating in the backyard landscape, especially in warmer zones. Reaching 15 or so feet, it can seemingly take over borders without regular pruning.

So, while it is not an invasive plant, and it certainly has fans, it is not for me. However, there is one relative of the paperplant that I find far more appealing.

Fatsia polycarpa 'Green Fingers', as seen in the image above, is less glossy than Fatsia japonica, and has far finer leaf 'fingers'.

This species can be grown in pots and borders down to zone 8, ideally in part-shade and with moist soil.

There are also other unique varieties, like this variegated fatsia, live plants available via Walmart, which might appeal more than the standard species.

2. Japanese laurel

There is no denying that Japanese laurel, or Aucuba japonica, is a useful plant. It can thrive in deep, dark shade and in moist, wet soil, where other shrubs may struggle.

However, and much the same as Fatsia japonica above, when I see the foliage, the speckled yellow and green leaves, I am not filled with joy.

Sadly, while it might be one of the best shrubs for shade, I think Japanese laurel has been overused in car parks and other public realm planting schemes, the likes of which you might spot around libraries, train stations, and so on.

It can also dominate, spreading in challenging areas where other shrubs might struggle, and in certain areas, including Virginia, it is reported as an invasive plant.

So, while this might be a shrub that thrives on neglect, I will not soon be planting it in my yard.

Instead, I would argue that the native buttonbush, or Cephalanthus occidentalis, is a better, and far safer, alternative.

In terms of how to grow buttonbush, this tough and versatile species can be planted down to zone 5, and, much like Japanese laurel, will do just fine in shade and damp soil.

Buttonbush live shrubs can be ordered online via Amazon.

3. Photinia

For many years, Photinia shrubs have been popular, often thought of as low-maintenance hedge plants or statement plants in pots and borders.

I am not a huge fan of their foliage coloration, and I know that I am not alone in this, but I do understand that some people enjoy the pop of red as a contrast to green.

However, I have always found them to be rather temperamental when caring for them in gardens in the UK, suffering from frost damage, or leaf spot or mildew. So, not quite as low-maintenance as they are often considered.

And, while the standard Photinia x fraseri 'Red Robin' is not considered aggressive, some Photinia species are, including P. serratifolia, which is classified as an invasive tree and shrub to avoid in California, Texas, Louisiana, Mississippi and Georgia.

Instead, for a low-growing hedge, I recommend oakleaf hydrangeas, which are far easier to grow. This native species, Hydrangea macrophylla, also has remarkable fall foliage, displaying oak-shaped leaves in shades of green and burgundy.

Live oakleaf hydrangeas can be ordered via Amazon, and can be planted in part-sun-part-shade down to zone 5.

4. Barberry

Japanese barberry, Berberis thunbergii, as well as some other species of barberry, are considered invasive plants to avoid growing, including in Maine, Wisconsin and Missouri.

While they might be fast-growing shrubs, in my opinion, they should always they should be kept out of backyards, particularly for this reason.

Indeed, they are overly vigorous outside of their native range, and this is to say nothing of the rather nasty spines along the stems.

Anyone who has pruned barberry will probably have the scars to prove it. This is not a job for the faint-hearted. And if you do need to do this task soon, my advice would be to invest in a good-quality pair of thornproof gardening gloves, available from Walmart.

If you need any more convincing, trying to remove leaves from the crown during fall and winter is also nigh-on impossible.

I once cared for a large swathe of barberry in central London, in a public park, and the London plane tree (Platanus × hispanica) foliage that would drop from above would gather in the crowns and look unsightly for many months. And, lacking thornproof sleeves, it was not an enjoyable task, I can tell you.

Instead, try learning how to grow ninebark, a thornless native shrub that can be planted down to zone 3 in part-shade, with impressive spring blooms and foliage coloration to rival that of any barberry.

Live ninebark plant can be ordered via Amazon.

5. Burning bush

Burning bush, or Euonymus alatus, can be easily spotted by its fiery red fall foliage.

And, while you might like the look of it during October and November, this shrub, in my opinion, should be avoided at all costs.

Indeed, outside of its native range, it can prove problematic, and today it is classified as an invasive plant in 21 US states, including Massachusetts, Pennsylvania and Delaware.

Once established, it can be very tricky to learn how to control burning bush, and they can quickly self-seed, disrupt local ecosystems and outcompete native shrubs.

Believe me, I have spent many hours using my hori hori knife to remove seedlings in one garden where I worked in Wales, which was not an enjoyable job, believe me.

There are so many native alternatives to burning bush shrubs. For a tough, resilient option, I would opt for the black chokeberry shrub, Aronia melanocarpa.

Hardy down to zone 3, this North American species will provide a vibrant fall display, without any worry of dominating your yard or getting out of hand.

Live chokeberry plants are available from Amazon.

In addition to these five, there are many other shrubs I’ll never grow again that didn't make it to the list above.

For example, a special mention must go to bear's breeches, Acanthus spp., as well as Rhus typhina, otherwise known as the stag's horn sumach, which I once planted in a large London plot, and in the subsequent years, it began suckering far and wide.

For more information, see our guide on shrubs and trees never to plant in a small backyard.

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As July rolls around, it's likely you've been spending more time outdoors, with windows and doors thrown open to welcome in the summer sun. While this is one of the best parts of the season, it does, unfortunately, result in new messes and hidden dirt spots to tackle.

With that in mind, these are the five things to clean in July, with smart and expert-approved cleaning tips to keep your home hygienic in the hottest months and prepare your space for hosting guests.

5 things to clean in July 2025

1. Pools

July is a key season for pool maintenance. While you should have spent a good amount of time preparing your pool for initial use at the start of the spring and summer season, regular maintenance is essential to keep it hygienic, says Rafi Friedman, president of Coastal Luxury Outdoors.

He explains, ‘The more frequently you use tools like pool skimmers and pool vacuums, the easier it will be to keep your pool clean and save wear and tear on your filter.

'Ideally, you should clean your pool once a week during the season, and clean the filter at least once a month.’

Using a pool net, such as the POOLWHALE Professional Pool Skimmer Net available at Amazon, daily is a great way to keep your pool free of leaves, debris, and dirt.

2. Planters and pots

Summer is the most enjoyable time to get outside and do some gardening. Before you start repotting plants, however, you should always clean flower pots and planters, says Tanu Grewal, chief cleaning officer at Chloralen.

She advises, ‘A lot of people don’t realize you should be cleaning your flower pots and planters before they become permanent homes for your plants. Particularly for planters that haven’t been used in a while, they can be breeding grounds for bacteria and diseases that could harm your plants.

'A bleach and water solution typically does the trick. Just mix together a small amount of bleach with water and – using gloves – wipe down the inside and outside of the pot. Rinse again with water, and allow the pot to air dry. Then, plant away.’

We recommend using waterproof gloves, such as the Mamison Waterproof Cleaning Rubber Gloves available at Amazon, rather than gardening gloves for this, to protect your skin.

It doesn't hurt to give your already potted plants a quick once-over at the same time.

Use a damp sponge free from chemicals, such as the AIRNEX Cellulose & Coconut Natural Sponges available at Walmart, to freshen up the pots and remove dirt and pests from the exterior for a more professional-looking yard.

3. Patio furniture

Sticking with the outdoor theme, July is the perfect time to clean outdoor furniture again. The hot sunny days mean they will dry quickly, preventing rust or water spots, and freshening them up ready for outdoor hosting, advises Rafi.

Spot clean soft furnishings, too, by cleaning outdoor cushions and cleaning mold from outdoor cushions. This is particularly important when it comes to cleaning white outdoor cushions.

'With frequent use in summer, they pick up sunscreen, sweat, and grime,' warns Karina Toner, cleaning expert and operations manager at Spekless. 'Vacuum with your best handheld vacuum, then spray them with a fabric cleaner, such as the Resolve Liquid Multi-Fabric Cleaner and Upholstery Stain Remover available at Amazon, which is effective on mildew, grease, and food stains.

'Let them dry in the sun,' she adds, which will also help to further kill mold and bacteria.

4. Entryways

It is recommended to clean your entryway weekly, but July is a good time for a deep clean, particularly if you need to get rid of musty smells in your entryway, says cleaning expert Tanu.

‘The more time you spend outdoors, the more likely you are to track dirt, grass, and other debris into the house,' she explains. 'This is especially true for those of us with pets or kids who are often running through the yard with muddy feet.

'If you have hardwood floors, this can be made easy with a quick soap and water wipe-down.'

For this, we recommend using the Method Squirt + Mop Hardwood Floor Cleaner available at Walmart, paired with the popular EasyWring™ Spin Mop & Bucket System, also available at Walmart.

'But if you have carpets, keeping the entryway clean can be more difficult,' continues Tanu.

'To simplify the process, I recommend getting a washing machine-safe entryway rug or doormat,' such as the Muddy Mat® available at Amazon, which is top-reviewed for ease of cleaning.

'When the doormat gets dirty, you can throw it in the wash with detergent and cold water,' she adds.

5. BBQ grills

It wouldn’t be summer without a cookout. In fact, as Will Cotter, cleaning expert and founder of HappyCleans says, 'It's the peak grilling season. All that BBQ buildup needs scrubbing so it doesn't mess with the flavor of the food.'

So, while BBQ grills were on our list of things to clean in May, if you haven't done so already, take advantage of the hot sunny days of July and deep clean your grill, urges Vanessa Terra Bossart, cleaning expert and owner of Green Terra Cleaning.

‘Disassemble the grill grates and other removable parts and soak them in warm, soapy water to loosen any built-up grease and grime,' she advises.

We recommend using the bestselling Dawn Ultra Liquid Dish Soap available at Walmart for this, which powerfully cuts through grease and grime with 100 percent biodegradable surfactants. Alternatively, Will suggests using Goo Gone Grill and Grate Cleaner Spray available at Amazon.

'Then, scrub with a grill brush or sponge, and use a baking soda and water paste for stubborn stains,' Vanessa continues.

‘Rinse thoroughly and let them dry completely before reassembling, remembering to also wipe down the exterior of the grill with a damp cloth [such as the MR.SIGA Microfiber Cleaning Cloth available at Walmart] and mild detergent.’

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These monthly special cleaning tasks are, of course, to be done on top of the household chores you should be doing weekly. This might seem like a lot of extra work, but they are essential to keeping your home, particularly your outdoor areas, clean and safe to use in the warmest months of the year.

Create a good cleaning plan and schedule to keep yourself accountable to ensure they are all achieved in good time. Using some summer cleaning hacks and tackling the things to organize in July can really help get things moving.

There is a selection of biennials and perennials that can be started from seed in July. Not only is growing plants from seed wholly satisfying, but it gives you a cost-effective way to boost your flowering displays for future growing seasons.

I have grown lots of flowers over my years as a professional gardener, as I grew hundreds of annuals, biennials, and perennials each year from seed, either for garden displays or for cutting to go into bouquets or vases. I have picked seven biennial or perennial flowers to plant in July, and also provided some sowing advice for each.

Is it too late to plant flowers in July?

It is usually recommended to add plants to flower beds, borders, or containers in spring or fall. However, there are some annuals to sow in July, as well as many perennials you can plant during the hotter months if you want to fill a few gaps or spruce up your beds.

To help new plants establish, planting in the cooler parts of the day and watering the planting hole beforehand is recommended, as well as regular deep watering to settle the plants in.

While growing from seed is not the norm in July, there are some plants that you can start. It offers a budget-friendly way to introduce new plants that will bring color and texture to your garden next year and potentially for years to come.

7 of the best biennial and perennial flowers to plant in July

So let's take a look at a lovely selection of biennials and perennials that make great flowers to plant in July – with a little time and effort this summer, you can get fantastic blooming displays to enjoy in the future.

Scabious

These delicate, pretty flowers can go by many names. Whether you know them as scabious, scabiosa, or the pincushion flower, there is no denying these glorious cottage garden plants look stunning in flower beds, make great plants for pollinators, and can also be fabulous cut flowers.

Different varieties come in pastel shades of pink, purple, lilac, or white, and range from seven to 30 inches tall. It means there is a scabious for any different styles or designs.

To grow scabiosa this month, you can sow seeds indoors into trays or pots filled with seed compost. This is suitable for the second half of July, and the plants can be grown on, potted up, and overwintered to plant outside in spring.

Alternatively, throughout the month, you can sow seeds directly outdoors. Thinly sow seeds a half-inch deep, cover with a thin layer of soil, and keep moist for good germination.

Whatever option you choose, the scabious will start blooming next year, and you’ll have flowering plants that regrow every year in US hardiness zones 4-9.

See the range of scabiosa seeds at Amazon

See the range of scabiosa seeds at Walmart

See the range of scabiosa seeds at Burpee

See the range of scabiosa seeds at True Leaf Market

Coneflower

Coneflowers, also known commonly as echinacea, are spectacular additions to beds or containers. The petals open and then stretch out backwards around the large central seed head, offering texture and structure to a space, even long after their late summer blooming period.

They are native plants that adore full sun. If you give them more than six hours of daily sunlight, they will reward you with a great display of blooms that are loved by bees and butterflies.

Coneflower seeds can be sown into trays or pots this month. Keep the containers in a protected place, such as a cold frame, and the young plants can go into beds come fall, where the coneflowers can overwinter to burst into flower next year.

There are many great coneflower varieties to choose from, including types that produce blooms in a mix of colors. An example is these ‘Cheyenne Spirit’ echinacea seeds at True Leaf Market that have maroon, tangerine, yellow and cream flowers.

Once you have the perennial plants in your borders, you can even harvest coneflower seeds each year to sow for more plants.

Wallflowers

Wallflowers are traditionally biennial plants, although some perennial types can bloom for several growing seasons. Even perennial varieties typically need to be propagated every few years, as they can be short-lived.

Wallflowers are hardy in US hardiness zones 4–9 and make excellent spring-flowering plants for beds, borders, and containers. They come in a wide range of colours, many varieties are highly scented, and wallflowers can bloom from spring through late summer or fall if growing conditions are right and regular deadheading is done.

Wallflower seeds can be sown in late spring to early summer, either indoors or outdoors. Seeds can be started in trays or pots filled with compost, but they do not like temperatures too warm and germinate best at 55-65°F.

The simple alternative is to sow seeds outdoors. Make half-inch drills around 12 inches apart and thinly sow the seeds before covering with soil. Keep the ground moist, and the seeds should germinate within two weeks.

Transplant the seedlings from their starter bed to their final position. The plants will happily overwinter to burst into glorious bloom come spring.

Myosotis

Also commonly called forget-me-nots, Myosotis come in various forms, including biennial and short-lived perennial types. Ideal for adding distinctive blue flowers to any garden during spring and early summer, forget-me-nots are adaptable and simple to cultivate.

Additionally, they are known as prolific self-seeding flowers, so they will return year after year once planted in a garden. Once introduced into a space, you will never need to sow them again, and you can enjoy their charming flowers every spring.

Forget-me-not seeds can be planted from spring to early August directly into their growing position in a sunny or part-shade spot. Sprinkle the seeds into the soil and cover with a thin layer of compost.

Keep the soil moist, and the seeds should germinate within two weeks. The seedlings should be thinned to around 10 inches apart. These young plants will overwinter to flower next spring.

See the range of myosotis seeds at Amazon

See the range of myosotis seeds at Walmart

See the range of myosotis seeds at True Leaf Market

Delphinium

Delphiniums are popular tall perennial plants for cottage gardens. These dramatic plants have vivid, dense flower spikes that rocket skyward and burst into glorious bloom in early summer.

These flower spikes can reach six feet high and are typically in shades of blue or purple, but there are types of delphiniums that come in white or pink.

Growing delphiniums from seed is a cost-effective way to have lots of summer flowers for years to come, and July is not too late. While delphiniums are often sown indoors early in the year, you can sow seeds directly outdoors in summer this month.

Sow the seeds into well-draining, rich soil in a sunny, sheltered position. Thinly sow the seeds onto the surface, cover with a thin layer of soil, and keep the soil moist.

If you miss the window to sow outdoors this month, there is another opportunity to sow delphiniums for blooms next year. You can sow seeds indoors in late summer or early fall to plant outdoors come spring.

See the range of delphinium seeds at Amazon

See the range of delphinium seeds at Walmart

See the range of delphinium seeds at Burpee

See the range of delphinium seeds at True Leaf Market

Sweet Williams

Sweet Williams, or Dianthus barbatus, are biennials, or short-lived perennials in milder climates.

They bloom in late spring and summer, with charming serrated flowers in shades of red, pink, purple, and white, and are ideal for cottage garden beds, flower borders, cut flower gardens, or container gardens.

Sweet Williams like to grow in sunlight and well-draining soil. They are easy flowers to grow from seed, and can be sown directly into their growing position in late spring or early summer.

Alternatively, they can be started indoors in trays, modules, or small pots to be planted outside in late summer or early fall and flower next year.

Wherever you sow sweet william seeds, they are best planted at depths of only 1-2mm and prefer to develop in cool temperatures of 50-55°F. Too high, and there is a risk of leggy seedlings.

This Sweet William Seeds 'Double Mixture' at True Leaf Market is a lovely variety to sow and get a mix of blooms in shades of crimson, scarlet, and pink loved by hummingbirds, butterflies and bees.

Gaillardia

Also known as blanket flowers, these are showy, short-lived perennials that put on vivid displays of blooms. The daisy-like flowers come in shades of red, orange, and yellow to fill beds with eye-catching displays of color.

Plus, once they are established, gaillardia is a low-maintenance, drought-tolerant plant that will readily self-seed and keep growing in the same area. They are ideal plants for cottage or wildflower gardens and are easy to grow from seed.

You can sow gaillardia seeds directly into the soil in July to flower the following year. The young plants that develop in late summer can overwinter in US hardiness zones 3-10 and produce a great display of flowers next summer and fall.

A particularly popular variety is 'Arizona Sun', an All-America Selections winner with bicolored petals, yellow on the edge and dark red in the center. You can get 'Arizona Sun' Gaillardia seeds from Burpee to sow.

FAQs

Can I plant a rose in July?

You can plant container-grown roses in July into beds or containers. However, it is not the ideal time to plant roses as they are actively growing and you’ll need to water them regularly to ensure they establish during the hotter months.

Roses planted in July may not put on a great flowering display this summer, but will perform better in the years to come. If you do want to grow roses, they are best planted in early spring or fall.

It can be a busy month in the garden. As well as planting flowers, there is a lot of watering, feeding, weeding, and deadheading to do to keep your plants looking their absolute best. It can all add up to a long summer gardening checklist.

To help you plan your month, our guides to plants to prune in July and plants to fertilize in July can help you ensure your yard looks neat, healthy, and bountiful over the summer.

Where you place your washer/dryer is key to keeping this household task moving as efficiently as possible. We look at the best places you can keep yours, depending on your layout and the space available.

Whether you do laundry every day or a few times a week, a well-organized space is paramount to make laundry easier. Here, we talk to experts who've remodelled houses and have put washing machines in all types of rooms in the house for their top seven spots.

1. In the laundry room

A dedicated laundry room, if you have the space, is our experts' top pick and the most common.

Professional organizer Marie Potter says it's definitely her preferred place, 'The best laundry room setup I’ve ever seen is the one I designed in my own home.'

Marie has her washer and dryer side by side, each raised approximately 30 inches off the floor.

'It's the model I recommend to clients who are in a position to design their own laundry space. It's all about ergonomics, saving time and conserving energy,' she adds.

For ease, adjust the height based on your washer and your body to eliminate bending.

'The washer is on the left and the dryer is on the right, with the doors opening away from each other (washer door swings left, dryer door swings right). This allows you to transfer clothes in a simple left-to-right motion, reducing strain on your back and streamlining the process,' Marie advises.

One of Marie's other top laundry hacks is to have color-coded laundry wash bags. She explains, 'Have each member of the household pre-separate socks and underwear as they take them off and before they hit the washer, which saves loads of time sorting and prevents lost sock syndrome.'

The Solved team has tried out the Joseph Joseph three-section laundry organizer, available at Amazon, and found it saved lots of time as the dirty laundry sorts itself as you go.

2. In the hall closet

This can be an entryway closet or an upstairs hall closet, depending on whether your home is one floor or many.

'For one of my most recent flip jobs, I relocated a washer from a small, cluttered basement space to a re-purposed coat closet near the main hallway,' says Carter Crowley, president and owner of CB Home Solutions.

The hallway was near three bedrooms in the middle of the house, Carter continues, 'The owners who bought the house said that they spent 40% less time doing weekly laundry chores than they had in their last house, where the washer was situated in the garage. I put custom shelving over the unit for detergent storage and included a fold-down countertop that served as a sorting station.'

Look out for clever storage solutions for your laundry room to help keep you organized.

3. Walk-in closet

If you have a large walk-in closet, that can be a perfect spot for a washer.

Kelly Otero, owner and principal designer at Ovation Interior Design explains, 'Oftentimes, there is not just one laundry space, but two in the home. With the primary suite often located on the first floor, clients are looking to integrate their washer/dryer into their walk-in closet for close access – these are often stackable units and space savers.'

'In smaller homes or apartments, I’ve worked with people who got really creative with closet space,' says Eric Bramlett, realtor and owner of Bramlett Real Estate. 'A narrow closet can fit a stacked washer and dryer surprisingly well. Add a folding door or even a set of curtains, and you’ve got a clean, hidden setup that doesn’t steal from your main area.'

4. A multi-functional space

In many homes, the washer can be housed in a space that has multiple uses. Kelly explains, 'Clients are not always looking to dedicate a full room to laundry but see it is as part of family life and want easy access that is multi-purpose, this tends to be more of a multi-use room that is a shared craft space, office space or even part of a decluttered mudroom.'

Having one space that serves laundry, coat, and boot storage, and possibly even acts as the pantry as well, can make good use of limited space, too.

Eric agrees, adding that we often overlook how well our spaces can be utilized, 'A powder room, a sunroom no one uses, or even a corner of a large bedroom can all be redesigned to handle laundry without being an eyesore.

'I recently helped someone turn part of their guest room into a combo laundry and storage zone, and it worked beautifully. We added sleek cabinetry, soft lighting, and folding doors that kept the washer and dryer out of view.'

Pop this handy two-section laundry hamper from Walmart on your shopping list; it has two pull-out bags for keeping washes separate.

5. En-suite bathroom

Generally speaking, you don't need a huge space for your washer and dryer, which is why Meghan Cocchiaro, founder and lead organizer of Organized by Meg, suggests an en-suite.

'I would place a washing machine off the primary bedroom if not in the en suite bathroom. I have seen this in many clients' homes, and they love it because it is so convenient for washing and putting away clothes quickly. If it's not right off the primary bedroom, it is on the main upper floor where all the bedrooms are, inside of a closet or a small room that is converted into a laundry or utility room.'

When space is tight, invest in magnetic shelves from Amazon that are designed specifically for the side of your appliance.

6. In the garage

The garage is usually the first option people think about – and for good reason, according to Eric. 'There’s space, it’s tucked away, and with a little effort, you can keep it organised and even stylish. I’ve helped families turn one side of a garage into a clean, efficient laundry zone with cabinets, drying racks, and enough counter space to fold clothes without feeling like you’re doing chores in a storage shed.'

It also pays to organize your laundry room as soon as possible so that anything that could potentially make clean clothes grubby is tucked out of the way. The other consideration is that the garage may not be temperature-controlled like the rest of your house.

'Make sure you deal with temperature swings,' advises Eric. 'Insulating your garage door and using enclosed cabinets keeps it comfortable and protects your machines from wear.'

Amazon's Madesa hazel wall storage cupboard is a great choice for keeping laundry supplies clean and dry.

7. In the kitchen

Washer/dryers in the kitchen is a common occurrence in European countries, and something that's starting to be adopted in the US if space is tight.

'The kitchen is another space where you can hide laundry if needed,' Erik suggests. 'With some thoughtful cabinetry and a good design plan, it’s possible to install compact machines in a way that blends into your existing kitchen look. A well-designed sliding door or cabinet front can keep it subtle.'

Meet the experts

So there you have it. Seven great spots you can place your washer and dryer to help streamline this endless household chore.

Once you've got your space running smoothly, the next thing is to learn laundry tips from pros so your laundry looks fabulous every time it comes out of your machine.

In this guide, cybersecurity experts share three easy ways to secure your robot vacuum, plus insights about what your device might be quietly collecting behind the scenes.

Whether you’ve already invested in one of the best robot vacuums or are considering getting one soon, this advice will help keep your data safe from opportunistic hackers.

The data security risks of evolving robot vacuum technology

In May, I reported on robot vacuums being programmed to do other household tasks, such as charging your phone and streaming live videos.

But it raised an important question: Should we be excited or worried about this developing technology? The key risk to your home's security is the fact that Wi-Fi-connected devices such as robot vacuums can become a data gold mine for potential hackers.

Sally Applin, a technology anthropologist and researcher at HRAF, takes a broad view. She asks, ‘Does it have a microphone? Could it listen to the home? Does it have a camera? Could it photograph the home?'

Yoshiaki Shiokawa, a PhD student at University of Bath who has programmed robot vacuums beyond their usual vacuuming function, explains why these features exist.

‘We need to add cameras to understand what the user is doing and the environment,’ acknowledges Yoshiaki, adding, ‘These robots are also connected to the internet, so the security issues need to be considered.'

Poor data security is a common mistake that can lead to identity theft. And securing your home for the holidays can pose a risk, too, as hackers could know when you're out of the house.

So, when bringing a robot vacuum into your home, you need to know how to protect yourself and your home.

1. Set up a separate network

While robot vacuums might seem like a harmless smart home must-have, they’re part of what’s known as the Internet of Things – devices that connect to your Wi-Fi to automate everyday tasks.

But unlike laptops or smartphones, many of these gadgets don’t have the same level of built-in protection. That’s why experts recommend isolating them on their own network.

'Keeping these devices on a separate network from your primary devices can be an extra layer of safety,’ says Jenna Waters, an information security risk consultant at BOK Financial.

‘It helps protect your sensitive data if one of your smart gadgets gets compromised,’ she adds.

One practical way to do this is by setting up a guest network, or if you’re more tech-savvy, a VLAN. This kind of 'digital room' keeps your vacuum from communicating with your phone, laptop, or work files – so even if it’s hacked, the threat stops there. It’s one of the most important steps when learning how to set up a smart home.

Vlad Cristescu, head of cybersecurity at ZeroBounce, explains, ‘If a hacker ever gets in through your vacuum – yes, it happens – they’ll hit a wall.’

2. Adjust settings and update software

Once your vacuum is connected, it’s easy to overlook how many permissions it’s been granted, including access to your camera, microphone, or cloud storage. As soon as you set it up (and whenever you're setting up smart tech gadgets that transform your home), adjust the settings to maximize privacy.

'Disable any unnecessary features or settings on the device and adjust privacy settings to limit data collection and sharing,’ says Jenna. That includes turning off video recording if it’s not essential, and denying the app access to things like your photo library or location.

Updating your robot's firmware might not feel urgent, but it’s one of the most effective ways to stay protected. ‘Firmware updates often include security patches that close known vulnerabilities,’ Waters explains. Make it part of your digital decluttering routine – especially if you’re adding new smart home cleaning tools to your setup.

For robot vacuums that sync with a mobile app, regularly check for updates and don’t ignore push notifications asking for new permissions. Being able to control what your devices can access is a smart home feature designers love for added security.

3. Choose a different email and password

Robot vacuums usually require an account to function, which means your personal email might be tied to an entirely new data stream. Jenna advises creating a dedicated email address just for smart devices.

'It helps mitigate the risk of phishing or social engineering on your day-to-day email accounts,’ she says. That way, even if one device is compromised, the rest of your digital life stays protected.

Avoid common robot vacuum mistakes and choose a strong, unique password. According to Vlad, ‘If your vacuum asks you to set up an account or link to Wi-Fi, always reset the password. Don’t reuse a former one. Use a new, strong password – and store it in a password manager.’

If you’re comparing models, many of the best robot vacuums for pet hair offer password-secure options and support multifactor authentication.

FAQ

What do robot vacuum brands do with our home data?

Robot vacuums aren’t just mapping your floors – they may be collecting data on when you’re home, what your rooms look like, and even what’s said nearby. Some models include microphones or cameras, while apps gather usage patterns, device metadata, as well as door and window locations.

‘While this data is primarily used to improve functionality, many companies sell it to third parties or share it with supply-chain providers,’ warns Jenna. ‘It’s all outlined in the privacy policy – and by agreeing to it, you’re allowing that data to be used in ways you may not expect.’

For those looking to reduce exposure, choosing a camera-free model or one that works offline can help, as these small steps are some of the best security measures for a house.

What to shop

If you're still choosing a robot vacuum cleaner for your home, follow this simple advice to protect your data.

'It is recommended to stick to more reputable brands simply because off-brands may be less likely to have a robust security and privacy program,' Jenna advises.

'It's best to cultivate a zero-trust mindset when choosing any smart devices, including robot vacuums. Some robot vacuum brands prioritize data security and privacy, but it's still crucial to be aware of potential data security and privacy risks,' she continues.

So, here are three robot vacuums we've tested and loved from reputable brands, but for added security, be sure to read through their privacy statements before buying.

Next, learn a military dad's top security picks for the home.

That’s why the Joseph Joseph two-tier cabinet organizer, available from Amazon, is perfect for small kitchens like mine, or if you're renting. With its current 25% discount, it's gone straight into my basket.

It’s perfect for getting my kitchen cabinets organized and will help prevent food wastage, as well as avoid costly duplications.

Why this Joseph Joseph organizer is so handy

In the past, I’ve used plastic bins for organizing tins of food, but pulling out these heavy bins causes the plastic handles to snap after a while. I’ve also taken to adding extra kitchen cabinet shelves to make use of some nifty vertical storage ideas and maximize my storage space.

However, the Joseph Joseph tiered organizer does all of that in one fell swoop. I’m a big fan of the brand and use many of its great organising solutions across my home, from pan lid holders inside my cabinets, to stacking shoe boxes from Amazon, and its tiered dish rack, available from Wayfair.

Joseph Joseph’s products are always durable, practical, and look expensive, unlike some other brands that can look as cheap as their price tags with flimsy plastic components and shiny finishes.

The sleek matte plastic and metal combination of the Joseph Joseph tiered cabinet organizer makes it look like a modern and integrated solution inside your cabinet, and is perfect if you're renting, or unwilling to drill anything into increase your vertical storage in cabinets.

Amazon shoppers agree that it looks as good as it functions.

Verified shopper Eva gave this item five stars, adding, ‘So far everything that I have bought from this brand have[sic] made my space and kitchen so much more functional’, while Nonameatball also gave it five stars for being ‘really useful in a cupboard’, adding, ‘Very sturdy. Great design. Fits a lot inside. Save a lot of space. Really good in organising.’

I will use it to organize my herbs and spices, as well as the many tins of food we have, so I can have better visibility in my lower cabinets.

What to shop

We also love the Joseph Joseph cleaning system, which allows you to do away with multiple tools taking up lots of storage space and clean across your home with one handy kit.

Often ignored, hellstrip gardens are becoming increasingly popular, with the potential to vastly improving our urban environments. However, before you set out to cultivate the hellstrip in front of your property, we’ll take you through the potential regulations you might need to adhere to and discuss the dos and don'ts of hellstrip gardening.

Perfect for complementing or extending your front yard design, I spoke with experts to get their advice on hellstrip gardening and the right ways to incorporate them into your urban gardening ideas.

What is a hellstrip and who owns it?

Known as a boulevard or sidewalk strip, this narrow no-man's land between the sidewalk and the street is sometimes referred to as a hellstrip due to its inhospitable conditions.

Often trampled to compaction, splashed with salt over the winter, far from the nearest garden hose and surrounded by heat-reflecting pavement, it is hard to think of anything that would grow well here. However, some plant species are remarkably robust and, with only a little care, can transform these near-wasteland spaces.

When it comes to possession, hellstrips can be owned by the adjacent homeowner, but are more commonly the property of the local municipality.

Utilities often run underneath hellstrips, meaning that any access requests for maintenance must be accommodated. You can ask your utility company to inform you where any pipes or cables are located so you can plant accordingly.

However, the responsibility of a hellstrip's upkeep, including mowing, planting and any weeding, generally falls to the adjacent property owner.

What are the rules and regulations on mowing or planting a hellstrip?

Regulations on what you are permitted to do with a hellstrip garden can vary between and across states. However, with climate change and temperatures rising, many governing authorities are relaxing their regulations to encourage homeowners and community groups to plant up and utilise these areas. Which, in turn, will hopefully improve the curb appeal and biodiversity of the local area and reduce air pollution and the risk of flooding.

'In many municipalities, the homeowner can plant the grassy area between the sidewalk and the street, often called the fairway or hellstrip' explains Andrew Bunting, VP of Horticulture for the Pennsylvania Horticultural Society and author of The Plant Lovers Guide To Magnolias (available on Amazon).

However, with the use of hellstrips being governed by the local municipality, it is prudent to check with them before designing or planting your hellstrip to ascertain what is allowed or if a permit is required.

Wherever you are located, the regulations generally state that any planting must be kept short enough to give pedestrians a clear view of the street and that access is to be preserved for any utility companies.

If you have a lawn as part of or all of your hellstrip, your local authority may stipulate that you must maintain it and mow any long grass. This is not only to keep the area looking well-kept, but also to ensure the safety of any pedestrians and to prevent overgrown plants from becoming a potential hazard.

Best plants for hellstrip gardening

'Plants for the hellstrip need to be urban tough, drought resistant and often take hot and dry conditions' says Andrew Bunting.

Furthermore, when it comes to hellstrip gardening, you will also need to choose plants or shrubs that will remain under any stipulated height restrictions, or be committed to pruning them regularly. When considering what to plant, it is important to take into account how often you will be able to water them.

Being adjacent to the sidewalk, hellstrips are not usually near a garden hose, meaning that any irrigation is by hand and often put at the bottom of the to-do list. However, you may be able to install a drip irrigation system or a soaker hose, which can not only save you time but also reduce water wastage as well.

Due to the challenge of irrigating hellstrip gardens, homeowners and garden designers often choose drought-tolerant perennials and native planting, as once established, they can survive prolonged dry spells and are often naturally suited to local conditions.

Furthermore, as gardening expert Annette Hird suggests, 'by sticking to native species endemic to the region, means that the plantings are both eco-friendly and can provide food sources for local wildlife, including birds'.

Tough plants such as Russian sage and lamb’s ears can work well as they are considered hardy in USDA zones 4 – 9, can cope with poor soil and require little ongoing maintenance.

Ornamental grasses are also a common choice for hellstrip gardening, as whatever the growing conditions, there is usually one that will suit. Providing texture and movement, grasses such as this dwarf prairie dropseed from Nature Hills are a good choice as they are considered hardy in USDA zones 3 – 9 and can tolerate dry, shallow soil conditions and air pollution.

For hot and dry conditions, sedums and stonecrops can be another good choice. Storing water in their fleshy leaves, they are drought-tolerant and ideal for a hard-to-irrigate hellstrip. Furthermore, varieties such as this low-growing SunSparkler® Lime Zinger Sedum from Nature Hills, suitable for US zones 4 – 9, will help suppress weeds and attract butterflies when it flowers in late summer to early fall.

However, as Annette Hird rightly says, 'always make sure you're not planting any species that are considered invasive in your state. Checking with the local Extension office is always a good idea.'

Design ideas for hellstrip gardens

Planting up a hellstrip can add curb appeal to your home, but for the best results, consideration needs to be taken to ensure that it is in keeping with your front yard, if you have one.

To encourage cohesion with your front yard, you can choose to plant up your hellstrip in the same style or with similar plants or colors. For example, if you have a cottage garden style or low-maintenance front yard, you could continue your theme into the hellstrip using similar but low-growing varieties or only a few of the same plants but in repetition or swathes.

Hellstrips can also be used to grow vegetables, or as Andrew Bunting suggests, 'these areas can also become pollinator gardens and would be a good place for the common milkweed, Asclepias syriacus and the butterfly milkweed, Asclepias tuberosa'.

Another factor to consider when designing a hellstrip garden is a pathway from the street to the sidewalk, as this will hopefully discourage any pedestrians from trampling on the plants. This is key, especially if you live in a built-up urban environment or if there is on-street parking.

For those short on time or perhaps new to gardening, low-maintenance plants and shrubs can be a great addition to your garden.

However, if you are concerned that low-care plants mean low impact, this expert selection of plants that never need pruning, will still make a great impression, whether you give them a light prune or not.

Some things will indeed struggle in the heat. Some annuals might refuse to grow or flower in the scorching days and dry soil. But there are some, like nasturtium and alyssum, that I have found are dependable and fast-moving, even if you are a little delayed in terms of your sowing schedule.

My advice: sow them directly outside or into small eco-pots that can be transplanted easily without disturbing the roots. These annuals to sow in July might not be the finest or bushiest display you will ever grow, but you might still get a pretty pot display, all while helping a pollinator or two as we approach fall. Here are even of my favorite flowers to plant in July.

7 annuals to sow in July

These seven fast-growing flowering annuals to sow in July have remarkable growth rates and can germinate and bloom in record time.

Indeed, many annuals, like some of the best zinnia varieties, can help to fill pots and borders with color for those last few weeks and months of the growing season.

Here are seven of my favorite annuals that I have tried and tested, and grown myself over my professional career.

1. Calendula

Calendula are some of the best late-summer flowers you can grow. I have planted them in vegetable beds, flower borders, and even in cracks and crevice gardens.

They are quick to germinate, with shoots usually emerging around 7 to 10 days. You can then expect flowers around 8 weeks after germination, which means if you sow them in July, you might enjoy some September and October blooms.

I would always recommend growing the classic favorite of gardeners, 'Indian Prince', with seeds available to order now via Amazon.

To me, this soft orange bloom is always a winner, especially when planted alongside other colorful annuals.

Calendula, like all of these annuals, can grow in a range of US hardiness zones, with a preference for lots of sunshine and good water every now and then.

In warm summers, provide some protection for seedlings and young plants, opting for a part-sun-part-shade spot, which will protect the young foliage from harsh rays.

Deadheading will help to prolong the summer show, but be sure to let one or two go to seed. These self-seeding flowers will help to provide you with the goods for next year's show.

2. Violas

Dainty violas are more resilient than they look. While they are not quite patio plants that thrive on neglect, these fast-growing tiny flowers are pretty tough, so long as the soil doesn't dry out entirely.

In terms of how to grow and care for violas, opt for a part-sun-part-shade spot in the yard, although I find it is easier to start them in a cold frame or greenhouse first, and plant outside later.

They usually take around 10 to 14 days to germinate and should flower within eight weeks. Just be sure to keep the soil moist to prevent them from sulking in the heat.

'Tiger Eye', as seen in the image here, is my absolute favorite viola, for obvious reasons. The markings, I think, are so special, and even in miniature, they steal the show.

'Tiger Eye' live plants can be ordered now from Burpee. Simply give them a good, deep watering on arrival, and get them planted in the ground as soon as possible.

3. Nasturtium

Nasturtiums are one of my favorite climbers to grow in pots and borders, and are ideal if you want flowers in rapid time.

Indeed, these are vigorous climbing plants that thrive on neglect, with a sprawling, vining habit that I love, often snaking and finding their way across the garden, sometimes producing many inches of growth in a single day.

In kitchen gardens, they are useful plants for pollinators and for adding color to soften the edge of beds, but I most enjoy growing them in pots.

In terms of how to grow nasturtium, choose a sunny or part-shade spot in your yard. I recommend sowing them directly into big containers alongside dahlias, zinnias or other flowering annuals. They should germinate within a week in warm soil and don’t need rich compost.

This pale-lemon 'Peach Melba' variety, with seeds available from Burpee, is one of my favorites this year, and should quickly grow and produce blooms by late summer and early fall.

4. Alyssum

Alyssum is a wonderfully old-fashioned annual that I’ve come to rely on, particularly for pot displays or when used as a flowering ground cover plant.

As flowers go, it is remarkably unfussy, the sort of plant that quietly gets on with it. Simply sow seeds directly where you want them to flower in a sheltered corner of the yard.

I have found Alyssum prefers cooler conditions, best thought of as a part-shade annual, so in southern regions, such as zone 9, be sure to give it a spot with some afternoon shade.

Germination takes around a week, and you might spot the first bloom by week six or seven, which is pretty impressive by any standard.

Alyssum seed tape is available to order from Burpee and takes the stress out of flower growing.

Simply dig your shallow trench, and roll out your tape. The seeds are already spaced correctly, so you don't need to worry about measuring or counting them. Simple.

5. Morning Glory

Morning glory vines are notorious for their fast growth rate. I have grown them on several occasions, opting for vibrant varieties, such as this 'Candy Pink' option, with seeds available to order now from Burpee.

In terms of how to grow morning glory from seed, sow directly in July, or into biodegradable pots, available from Walmart, to minimize root disturbance.

Germination can take seven or so days, sometimes less if you gently sand or nick the seeds first.

Spring sowing can result in growth of over 10 feet in a matter of months, and while this probably won't be the case if you are sowing in July, they will still reach an impressive height by fall.

In my experience, a sunny position with at least six hours of direct light is best. And, don't forget to be generous with the watering can every few days.

6. California poppies

California poppies, or Eschscholzia californica, are a classic (and foolproof) summer annual.

They were actually the first flowers I grew from seed with my father many years ago, and if a heavy-handed 13-year-old can do it, then I am pretty sure you can, too.

I have found they will grow almost anywhere, from dry, dusty beds to fertile flower borders. And, as you might have inferred from the name, these are California native plants, so they can do just fine with very little water.

Sow them directly in July. I have found that they hate transplanting. They should germinate within seven days and flower in as little as six weeks.

This 'Yukon Gold' variety, with bright golden-yellow blooms, is on my shopping list, and is currently available to buy online from Burpee.

7. Cornflowers

If you are looking for wildflower garden ideas, you won't find much better than cornflowers.

Often thought of as some of the best blue flowers, I have grown them in gravel borders, wildflower mixes, or cut flower gardens, and always found them to be reliable and late-flowering.

Cornflower seeds, available from Walmart, can be sown directly outside in full sun flowerbeds and borders this month, and you can expect blooms in about eight to 10 weeks, which will last up until the first frost.

So, while it is preferable to grow them far earlier in the year, you can still enjoy a short few weeks in September and October of color.

For an unusual option, try 'Black Ball', with seeds available from Amazon. I love this dark, maroon option, which looks great in the border or when snipped and placed in a vase indoors.

FAQs

Can I sow zinnias in July?

Yes, zinnias can still be sown in July, although the flowering window will be far shorter than compared to seeds sown in spring.

In terms of how to grow zinnias, sow them in full sun and provide plenty of water (ideally early in the morning or late at night) to keep them in good health.

You can expect flowers within nine or 10 weeks, so if you get them in the ground early in July, you can enjoy some October flowers (hopefully!).

Zinnia seeds can be ordered now via Burpee.

If you are keen to enjoy the maximum number of flowers in your yard this summer, have you considered rethinking weeds? Tough, native species can add color and impact to your plot, albeit in a natural, wild aesthetic.

Why not leave a few rogue dandelions in the lawn or some blue alkanet growing at the back of the border, both of which are impressive (and beautiful) flowering weeds for pollinators. Our guide has all the information you need to know.

Shop flower sowing accessories

You see, indoor plant care requires effort all year round. So, while the summer provides much more favorable conditions for houseplants (unlike cold windows and lack of light when caring for houseplants in winter), there is still room for things to go wrong if you neglect care.

More specifically, the hotter temperatures bring new challenges for houseplant hydration and protecting plants from scorch and active pest populations. But, don't fret. All you need to do is familiarize yourself with these five summer houseplant care mistakes to avoid.

5 summer houseplant care mistakes

You'll find a lot of these summer houseplant care mistakes go back to the basics of common indoor plant mistakes. However, it's important to understand how the warmest season specifically impacts houseplant health and what you need to do to ensure they make it through to fall.

1. Keeping sensitive plants on a south-facing windowsill

The first thing I always tell new houseplant collectors is that not every plant grows in the same conditions. This is especially true when it comes to indoor low light plants vs indoor plants for direct sun.

The former won't do well in a direct sun position. In fact, such intense sunlight exposure can cause leaf scorch and discoloring foliage.

'More light does indeed come through south-facing windows compared to others, so there's a high chance that on sunny days, delicate plant leaves may get sunburned,' says Anastasia Borisevich of Plantum.

'If the plants are not succulents, cacti, or variegated varieties that benefit from sunlight to maintain their coloration, it's better to choose an east or west-facing window, where the amount of direct bright light is limited to four to six hours.'

If you're struggling to find a less intense sunlight spot in your home, try creating filtered light with these sheer curtains from Wayfair.

2. Not increasing watering frequency

Watering houseplants is where a lot of indoor gardeners go wrong, as too little or too much water can quickly lead to the downfall of houseplants. A factor that impacts watering frequency: temperature. So, as summer days warm up the temperature, it's important to adjust watering frequency accordingly.

'In summer, the soil in pots dries out faster, so plants need to be watered more frequently than usual. It's very important that watering is thorough and regular, but the surface of the soil has time to dry out between waterings,' says Anastasia.

Of course, each houseplant has differing watering needs and some will be able to deal with drought better than others. Nevertheless, they will all dry out more quickly in summer, so it's likely you'll need to water more often than in other seasons.

Dehydration can cause a few symptoms, for example a monstera drooping or an asparagus fern turning yellow.

To avoid this, I like to use this soil moisture meter from Amazon to monitor moisture levels in my houseplant soil. Depending on the plant, I tend to top up water when the top couple of inches have dried out.

3. Watering too often

Just like underwatering, overwatering is also something to avoid in summer. I've been guilty of this in previous years, worrying about the hot weather dehydrating my houseplants and rushing to pick up my watering can to add more water to the soil.

But, if you don't allow houseplant soil to dry sufficiently before watering again, it could waterlog the soil and cause houseplant root rot. Not only this, but too-wet soil can cause problems like a fungus gnat infestation or a build-up of mold and mildew.

'Many assume more sun equals more water, but the real key is checking the soil, not the schedule. When it's hot, soil can dry quickly on the surface while still holding moisture deeper down,' says Donna Letier, houseplant expert and CEO of Gardenuity. 'Always test with your finger or a moisture meter,' she adds.

Donna also says to avoid using cold water in the heat: 'Room temperature water is easier on stressed roots. Plus, whenever possible remember to hydrate from the bottom up,' she says.

Make sure you're equipped with a houseplant watering can (from Amazon) for the summer season ahead.

4. Overfertilizing houseplants

Fertilizing mistakes are also common during summer. This is because spring and summer are the ideal time to feed houseplants (because they're actively growing), but feeding too much could kill off indoor plants by burning roots.

'When a plant is stressed from high temps, it’s not focused on growth. Instead of monthly feeding, cut back to a diluted mix every six weeks,' says Donna. 'Skip the fertilizer entirely if your plant is showing signs of sunburn or root stress,' she adds.

As for the best fertilizer for houseplants, it really depends on the plants you have. I find a balanced all-purpose fertilizer (from Amazon) works well for the majority of houseplants, but you can also use one high in phosphorus (like this fertilizer from Amazon) for indoor flowering plants to boost blooms.

You can also use plant-specific fertilizer, like this monstera plant food from Amazon to fertilize your monstera.

Of course, there are also houseplants you don't need to fertilize often, for a more low-maintenance option.

5. Not checking for pests regularly

Warmer weather = ideal conditions for common houseplant pests to thrive and multiply. I've struggled with a few pest infestations in my time caring for houseplants, and that's why I now regularly check my plant leaves to jump on any pest problems immediately.

The likes of spider plants on houseplants, thrips on houseplants, and even aphids on houseplants are active during the warmest time of year.

Pests typically like to hide on the underside of leaves, so it's important to check here. If you do spot any, you can then take action accordingly to stop the pest problem spreading.

For example, use homemade bug spray, physically remove pests, or blast your plants with water to rid them of pests.

I also like to clean houseplant leaves weekly to stop a build-up of dust and debris, which attracts pests. Use microfiber cloths (from Amazon) to gently wipe leaves clean, which will also make them look glossier.

FAQs

Is summer a good time to prune houseplants?

Yes, summer is a good time to prune houseplants because it's usually when they're actively growing. Using essential pruning tools (like these shears from Amazon), remove any damaged and disease foliage. This will give your houseplant a healthier look and encourage new growth. Make sure to clean your gardening tools after each use to prevent the spread of potential pests and diseases.

Summer is also an excellent time to grow houseplants from cuttings. Warmth is fundamental for rooting cuttings, so it's a good time to take advantage of higher summer temperatures. Place cuttings on a warm windowsill and don't let them dry out.

With a few focused efforts, your home can feel lighter, cleaner, and easier to manage, without chores impacting your big summer plans.

Here, professional home organizers share the six things you should declutter in July 2025, with the best decluttering methods for each zone.

6 things to declutter in July 2025

1. 4th July Fireworks

In the run-up to your 4th of July party ideas, double-check your fireworks stash. Old fireworks could be dangerous or simply deliver lackluster displays.

Angelia York, professional organizer and VP of Saint Louis Closet Co., says, ‘A great category to declutter in summer is old fireworks. Check through any leftover 4th of July storage and dispose of any damaged or expired fireworks safely.’

Before getting rid of fireworks, submerge them completely in water for at least 48 hours. Then, double wrap them in plastic bags, tape them up with all-weather duct tape from Walmart, and dispose of them in your household waste.

2. Gardening tools

If you didn’t declutter these items in June, it's a good time to take stock and clear out any tools you no longer need.

Angelia says, ‘July is a good time to declutter a shed and tackle spring gardening supplies and tools. If tools are broken or seeds didn’t get planted, it’s time to let them go. Free up garage or shed space for current season needs.’

For the tools you are keeping, store them in a convenient tool caddy from Lowe's, so they are easy to find next planting season. Keeping everything together is also a great way to optimize your home storage and avoid costly duplicates.

3. Your garage

Decluttering a garage is not the most fun task, but it is a prime clutter magnet. While the weather is nice, July is a prime time to open up all the doors and work through some of that clutter.

Sejal Parekh, realtor, former-home stager expert, and founder of Innovae Designs, recommends, ‘Do a quick survey of your garage items. A wide variety of things tend to end up here. Make an easy access area for summer supplies such as gardening items, pool supplies, beach bags, hats, sports equipment, and 4th of July items such as fireworks, etc. You can organize these items in large tote bins.

‘For each item to organize, ask yourself, “Is this something I am actively using or want to use in the next six months?” If the answer is no, load it in your car for donation or discard it.’

4. Your car

Time off work and school means that Summer road trips have likely left your car looking a little worse for wear.

While you are working through your decluttering checklist outdoors and in your garage, Amanda Polton, professional home organizer at OrganizePro, says, ‘Take time to declutter any trash or clutter from road trips, checking for broken sunglasses, bags, or unused maps or manuals.’

5. Expired products

Angelia suggests, ‘Go through your expired or excess summer items. Go through items like sunscreen, bug spray, and pool chemicals because these all have expiration dates. You should toss anything past its prime or that you didn’t use last season.’

Don’t limit this task to decluttering a bathroom, either. Remember to check through any vacation bags, beach totes, and sports bags, too.

6. Your kitchen

Before you can organize a kitchen for the 4th of July, you need to declutter your kitchen to make space and assess what you have and what you need, while avoiding duplicates.

Sejal urges, ‘To prepare for summer entertaining, do a quick pass through of your cabinets and countertops. Let go of any small appliances and gadgets you are not using, excess water bottles, expired spices, expired food, excess coffee mugs, and extra Tupperware.

For Tupperware, I find it easiest to store the container and lid assembled together so you don’t have a drawer full of mismatched items – this automatically will force you to let go of the ones you don’t have space for.'

This expandable cabinet organizer, from Walmart, can help to keep things neat and prevent a tsunami of containers when you open the cabinet door.

‘If you are going to be hosting a 4th of July barbecue, look at your kitchen through the lens of hosting and entertaining. What items do you need for hosting, and what haven’t you been using? Create a section of hosting supplies from paper products to fun serving dishes.’

Decluttering before the big events will make cleaning up after the 4th of July far easier on you and your guests.

Meet the experts

After you have decluttered in July, consider the things to clean in July and things to organize in July to fully refresh your space, ready to welcome guests.

Because I don't have much space for fruit and vegetables, I grow potatoes each year in a tower on our patio.

It is neat and easy, taking up hardly any space but producing an enviable harvest. Potato towers are perfect for compact urban gardens, balconies and terraces and here I share everything you need to know about growing a crop of potatoes vertically.

How to grow potatoes vertically in a tower

Potato towers are wire cages standing four or five foot tall that contain layers of straw, compost and seed potatoes.

They are easy to make and can fit into a corner of even a small balcony or yard. I think it is always worth including potatoes in your small vegetable plot ideas because they are such a space-efficient and versatile crop.

Depending on the variety, they will be ready for harvest from early summer right through to the fall, meaning you can grow them as part of your homegrown Christmas dinner.

Equipment you will need

Towers are easy to construct and can be reused year after year, making them a sustainable way to grow potatoes and other tubers.

You will need wire cutters such as these Hurricane snips on Amazon, a length of chicken wire or wire mesh, like this galvanized mesh from Amazon, that is around 4 foot long and 3 foot high.

You'll need zip ties like these heavy-duty cable ties from Amazon.

You can leave your tower as it is, but if you are worried about making a mess or want to prevent voles or mice from burrowing in and nesting, you can stand it in a sack or bag so the base is contained.

I have used burlap sacks, like these at natural jute bags on Amazon, wooden half-barrels and even old plastic compost sacks. Pierce the sacks with scissors first so the compost didn’t become waterlogged.

You will also need a good quality potting soil, like R&M Organics Premium Compost on Amazon that is suitable for growing vegetables, and some straw.

Generally speaking, potatoes are not fussy about their container as long as it doesn't let in the light as this will turn the tubers green, and drains well.

How to grow potatoes in a tower

Potatoes like warmth, so a south-facing balcony is ideal. Alternatively, position it where it will get the most sun and we recommend building it there so you don't need to move a full, heavy tower later on.

• Start by making a cylindrical bin using the wire mesh. Use wire cutters to cut a piece of mesh that is roughly two feet in diameter and four foot tall, as this will give you plenty of depth for your potatoes but also not be too difficult to access.
• Tie it together using the zip ties and if you want it to be more stable you could attach the wire frame to a sturdy rebar stake like these heavy-duty ones on Amazon and insert it into the soil.
• Now line the base of your tower with a layer of straw 2-3 inches deep, and create a hollow in the middle for your compost. The straw will help support the structure, improve drainage and also insulate your potatoes.
• Now add your first layer of potatoes. These should be placed on the compost and against the sides of the straw 'nest' with their eyes where the shoots will develop pointing outwards.
• Cover the potatoes with a thin later of compost and water them well.
• Now make another straw nest on top of the potatoes, add more compost and potatoes, water them well and continue this layering process, as though you are lasagna gardening, until you are 4 inches from the top of the tower.
• As the potatoes grow, shoots will erupt through the sides of the tower and the top growth of the top later of potatoes will emerge from the top.
• As your plants grow, keep them well watered but make sure the tower drains well to prevent your crop from rotting.

Growing and harvesting tower potatoes

Fertilizing potatoes will definitely improve your crop, and you can buy specific potato fertiliser like this liquid feed on Amazon which is designed to give growing tubers all the essential plant nutrients they need.

Harvest your potatoes once the flowers have died back. If you don't have containers with side openings, carefully dip your hands into the container from the top and remove as many tubers as you need.

At the end of the season, when the top growth has died back, empty the compost and harvest the rest of your potatoes. You can expect each plant to produce around 2 pounds of tubers.

The best potato varieties for vertical growing

Indeterminate potatoes, which take 80 to 100 days from planting to harvest, grow tubers along their stems making them perfect for vertical growing.

Popular varieties include the heirloom tuber ‘Strawberry Paw’, high yielding ‘Snowden’, purple-skinned ‘Kennebec’ which stores well after harvest, ‘Red Pontiac’ which is good for boiling and mashing and ‘Umatilla Russet’, a classic potato popular for making fries.

Determinate varieties that only produce one layer of tubers are also known as baby or new potatoes. They are quick to ripen and are usually ready for harvest 70-90 days after planting.

The best varieties include the versatile ‘Yukon Gold’ which is good for boiling and roasting, ‘Norland’ which has good disease resistance, red-skinned ‘Chieftain’ (good storage) and the heavy-cropping ‘Cal White’.

A wide variety of seed potatoes, along with growing advice, can be found at Burpee.

Potato pests

Like all plants, potatoes can suffer from pest attack above and beneath the soil.

The main ones to watch out for are aphids, which attack the top growth, sucking sap which weakens the plant and can spread diseases and Colorado potato beetle.

These beetles are a major threat and can decimate potato plants, eating the leaves to the point where there is no top growth left.

They also attack tomato plants, eggplants and peppers. At soil level cutworms can chew through stems, while slugs hang out within the compost and burrow into the potato tubers.

Where possible, use natural pest control methods and nematodes to protect your plants, removing pests by hand as soon as you see them and encouraging pest predators such as garden birds, ladybugs and wasps into your yard.

You can even use cooked potatoes to attract garden birds as they are a safe and nutritious treat for them.

However, if pest infestations are bad, we recommend using an organic solution such as Colorado Beetle Beater at Amazon, which also combats a wide range of unwanted critters.

FAQs

What can I use if I'm unable to build a tower?

Tall, robust bags or containers for growing fruit and vegetables are widely available.

We like these reusable 10-gallon potato growbags on Amazon. They are large enough for good cropping and have side openings that make it easier to access your potato harvests.

Can I grow sweet potatoes vertically?

If space is tight you can definitely grow sweet potatoes in containers.

They are usually a sprawling crop so cultivating them in containers is ideal for small gardens, though they will need a large container or grow bag. They also need warmth, so wait to plant until well after the last frosts.

Can I reuse potato compost?

As a way of saving money, creating a zero-waste garden and as a form of sustainable gardening, you can reuse the compost and straw from your potato tower after harvest.

The compost can be used as a soil conditioner and you can either adad the straw to your compost heap or use it to protect plants in winter once you have made sure it doesn't contain pests.

However, if your plants were struck by potato blight it is a safe precaution to dispose of the compost instead.

Potatoes are one of the easiest and most satisfying vegetables to grow and because they can be grown in containers, they are the perfect solution if you are considering what to grow in a small yard, patio or balcony.

Here, home organization pros reveal the four things you're better off relocating or getting rid of in the summer when humidity is high.

Take control of this space and banish mold risks with a timely basement organizing session.

1. Cardboard boxes

Cardboard boxes often migrate to the basement after a house move or a large online purchase, and never leave. But they're a prime target to absorb high moisture with their porous structure.

Interior designer Lara Nancy Cupido, of LN Studio, says, 'Cardboard is basically a mold magnet. Trust me – even if your basement seems dry, humidity spikes will turn those boxes into a soggy, green nightmare.

'Instead, transfer keepsakes into sealed plastic bins, then let go of anything that’s been boxed for more than two moves ago.'

Ben Soreff, professional organizer at House to Home Organizing, agrees. He says, 'Cardboard boxes create the perfect 'out of sight, out of mind' item.

'People see the basement as a make-it-go-away space, and because you can't see what's inside, cardboard boxes are a popular choice. But they can gather mold, and at some point, the basement will flood or a pipe will burst – usually while you're on vacation!'

Soreff and Cupido advise opting for clear, weathertight, plastic bins, such as IRIS USA Stackable Plastic Storage Bins from Amazon.

Cupido adds, 'These bins lock out moisture and stack neatly. No more collapsing boxes or moldy surprises.'

2. Old paint cans

That half-empty can of 'Sherwin-Williams Pure White' from a renovation five years ago? It's likely dried up, separated, or utterly useless now. Old paint cans take up valuable space, and if they're not sealed properly, they can leak, creating a sticky, messy, and potentially mouldy problem.

Cupido says, 'Paint cans rust and leak over time, filling your basement with toxic fumes and sticky splatters. If it’s latex paint and nearly full, pour it out to dry, then toss it in the trash once it’s solid. If it’s oil-based, take it to a hazardous-waste drop-off. You’ll be amazed how many people forget this step and end up with a nasty spill.'

Cupido recommends a paint can opener such as the Hyde Paint Can Opener from Amazon. She adds, 'This will get even the nastiest, rusted lids off without bending them. Perfect for deciding if that bottom layer of paint is still usable or truly junk.'

Our expert guide 'Does paint go bad?' explains exactly how and why paint can expire, plus what to do about it.

3. Outdated holiday decor

Many basements are home to bags and bins of holiday decorations that are dirty, tangled, or haven't seen the light of day in years.

This can make them a prime target for mold, especially any with fabric elements, such as bows and ribbons. There are other problems, too.

Cupido says, 'Broken ornaments and frayed cords aren’t just eyesores – they’re fire hazards and accident risks. Sort through your holiday bins every year, and if you haven’t used it in two seasons, say goodbye.

'For those fragile ornaments that you do decide to keep, opt for compartmentalized boxes so they don’t get crushed.'

ProPik Ornament Storage Boxes with Dividers, available from Amazon, provide five layers of safe storage and have handles for easy relocation.

Using a lidded bin will help to keep moisture away, too.

Consider also whether vertical storage can help keep delicate items in better condition, as well as providing easier access to your possessions.

The Alden Design 5-Shelf Adjustable Storage Shelf Unit from Walmart and the Seville Classics 5-Tier Wire Shelving with Wheels from Amazon are two reliable options.

4. Suitcases you'll never use

Suitcases take up a considerable amount of space. But how many do you really need?

Toner says, 'Hard-sided luggage may eventually crack when stored in spaces with fluctuating temperatures, and fabric ones become a cozy nesting spot for spiders and mice. Plus, we’ve seen mold and musty smells ruin perfectly good bags just from sitting too long.

'Instead, keep only your go-to travel bags. Donate extras to foster care organizations or shelters; they’re often needed for transporting personal items.'

Toner recommends Cedar Space Cedar Blocks from Amazon, adding, 'For suitcases you do intend to keep and use, toss these in to prevent musty smells.'

Meet the experts

So there you have it – four items in your basement you should get rid of right now to stop that pesky summer humidity from creating a hidden problem out of sight.

Next, check out the things people with nice-smelling basements always do and the items to never store in yours.

Knowing how to grow impatiens is a doddle, but did you know that deadheading impatiens is vital for encouraging yet more blooms?

Luckily, they don't need deadheading often, but they will serve even more flower power if you do. Here's when, why, and crucially, how to deadhead these sprightly summertime blooms.

Do I need to deadhead impatiens?

If you want your impatiens to stay picture perfect, then, yes, in short, you do need to deadhead them.

Regular deadheading helps to maintain neat displays, and if they're left to their own devices, impatiens will quickly look very shabby. What's more, if you forgo deadheading, they will not be jolted into producing more flowers, so you will have a far less productive plant overall.

When we don't deadhead impatiens, the spent flowers will drop off and rot, which very often causes outbreaks of grey mold. It is best to remove spent flowers before they drop off of their own accord, and allow the energy to be redirected back into the plant so it can produce more flowers for your garden.

When to deadhead impatiens

Impatiens can be deadheaded at any time during the growing and flowering season. Impatiens typically bloom from spring through fall, so they can be deadheaded for many months, and still produce more and more flowers.

Keep an eye out for spent flowers. They naturally fall away from the plant, but removing them before they drop off will allow your impatiens to redirect its energy into creating more blooms.

How to deadhead impatiens

Knowing how to deadhead impatiens is wonderfully straightforward. Firstly, identify those spent flowers you wish to remove. Flowers that are over will appear wilted, or even have collapsed.

Remove the entire stem of the faded flower, either with scissors or you can use your fingers to pinch them off. You will want to remove back to a node, which is the point in the stem where new growth can come through.

To avoid one of the most common deadheading mistakes, never remove more than one-third of the plant (they won't thank you for it).

Repeat this regularly throughout the growing season, ideally weekly.

If you're worried your busy Lizzies are looking spindly, and there is a frustratingly large space between leaves, then your impatiens have become 'leggy', and leggy plants go on to make far fewer lovely flowers.

If this is the case, you can prune your leggy plants, and this will make them send energy back into making new, lush growth. You can prune them throughout the growing season.

When new growth does emerge in the coming days, this is where pinching out plants comes into its own. By 'pinching' off these new shoots, it will encourage more side shoots to emerge, resulting in yet more flowers.

Shop Busy Lizzie essentials

Knowing how to deadhead impatiens as the flowers fade is your ticket to non-stop blooms all summer long. They're one of the best container plants for shade, so don't be afraid of popping them in a darker corner to inject some much-needed color.

If your impatiens leaves are turning yellow, it might be that they aren't getting quite enough nutrition, so try feeding them and ensuring they are getting plenty of nutrients to be happy, healthy, and prolific flowerers.

Each shade offers subtle differences, bringing its own atmosphere and aesthetic to your home. But interior designers turn to some greige paints again and again, no matter the project – and Benjamin Moore's Light Pewter is a favorite.

A go-to neutral, Light Pewter hue is versatile and complex, and unsurprisingly, one of Benjamin Moore's best sellers. Here's why interior designers favor the shade, and how to incorporate it into your own home.

How to decorate with Benjamin Moore Light Pewter

One of Light Pewter's biggest draws is its ability to accentuate just about any room's design scheme – no matter the lighting, layout, or color palette. Arianna Barone, color marketing manager at Benjamin Moore, says the shade is a 'versatile light warm gray' that works well as a 'foundational' shade.

'Offering the comforting and welcoming vibes of beiges and the modern, fresh touch of grays, Light Pewter 1464 is a very adaptable hue, making it fit seamlessly into a variety of color palettes and design styles,' says Arianna. 'It is a color with true staying power that you will love for years to come.'

1. Anchor your home's aesthetic with Light Pewter

Lauren Saab, founder of Texas-based Saab Studios, recommends using Light Pewter to set the groundwork, allowing it to establish a color scheme for your whole home. She says the shade is her 'go-to neutral when a space needs softness without skewing too warm'.

'Light Pewter is incredibly versatile, which makes it ideal for anchoring a home’s palette,' says Lauren. 'It shifts effortlessly between palettes, anchoring both warm and cool tones without feeling rigid or flat.'

Lauren prefers to use the hue in open-plan homes and shared living spaces, where she says 'cohesion matters most'. Pairing Light Pewter with Benjamin Moore's Saybrook Sage for a 'tonal, grounded scheme' or the brand's Stillwater shade for a 'cooler' look, she has used this neutral time and time again.

'It has a quiet depth, neither beige nor gray, that reads differently throughout the day but always feels grounded,' says Lauren. 'It doesn’t scream for attention, which makes it ideal for rooms meant to exhale in. It has that rare ability to make a space feel both calm and composed.'

2. Add contrast without excess color

Jennifer Carter, principal designer of New Jersey-based Studio Envie, has used this chameleon shade in multiple projects. She says it's the perfect hue to opt for if you'd like to avoid a stark white or dull gray, but don't have room in your design scheme for another bold color. In this kitchen, she picked Light Pewter for its comforting undertones.

'In the checkered floor kitchen, we used Light Pewter on the walls because we wanted some contrast to the white perimeter cabinets without adding another color into the mix,' she says. 'We wanted it to be a touch warm against the gray flooring and blues in the cabinets and bench seat.'

'The amazing thing about Light Pewter is that it is able to hold its own when paired with blues, greens, pinks, and whites,' Jennifer continues. 'It allows designers and clients alike to pair it with a variety of other colors without it being limiting.'

3. Layer Light Pewter with pattern and texture

Light Pewter's ability to establish a calming foundation and truly ground a space makes it the perfect shade to experiment with. Rebecca Amir, founder of New York-based Rebecca Amir Design, suggests layering the hue with eye-catching colors and textures – whether you're after a bold look, or something a bit more serene.

In this bedroom, located in Brooklyn's Cobble Hill neighborhood, Rebecca leaned into the color's pewter undertones, pairing it with blue accents and a patterned headboard. She says she wanted to create a calming backdrop, and allow the textures, details, patterns, and art 'to unfold without competition.'

'I love the way it pairs with a nice crisp white on the trim or millwork – in the Cobble Hill bedroom, we did all of the trim and doors in Benjamin Moore Baby's Breath,' she says.

'Think of Light Pewter as your canvas,' Rebecca continues. 'It's not a color to be afraid of. While I've used it in past projects to create serene bedrooms, I think it would be really nice in a living space as well as where it can be layered upon with patterns and textures that come from the furniture and fabrics.'

4. Experiment with different finishes

Light Pewter shines bright in any single application, but Kathy Heiner – founder of Virginia-based KLH Designs – recommends using the shade in multiple finishes for a dynamic and unexpected design scheme. She uses the greige shade often, even opting for it in her own home, and says she appreciates its ability to blend with a wide range of colors and textures.

'My favorite application is to use high gloss on the trim and flat on the walls,' she says. 'This can really accentuate gorgeous trim in an old house, like this one in Gloucester, Virginia.'

'This color is an excellent neutral as it works well with both warm and cool elements,' she continues. 'I have used it in spaces with heart pine flooring, a blond oak floor, or a grey stained floor. It also looks lovely with most stone and tile selections.'

5. Use Light Pewter as a backdrop for artwork

James Aman, co-founder of New York-based Aman & Meeks, says Light Pewter is the perfect hue to choose if you're looking to enhance your collection of artwork. It offers 'more character than standard white' when used as a base for gallery walls, he says.

'It's an excellent base tone that remains impactful,' says James. 'We particularly love pairing it with lavender or light blue accents.' In this living room, Light Pewter provides a neutral, serene backdrop for a statement mirror and bold pops of color. The color is 'ideal for spaces you want to highlight or make an impact,' says James.

6. Try the shade in transitional areas

Because Light Pewter blends so effortlessly with such a wide range of shades, it acts as a go-to transitional choice for designers. Caroline Kopp, founder and principal of her eponymous Connecticut-based design firm, says the shade is 'tasteful and refined', working well in sunny spaces, as well as those relying on artificial light.

'Light Pewter is a great transition color alongside other soft whites like Benjamin Moore’s Seapearl,' says Caroline. 'For a ceiling color to go with Light Pewter I would do Super White. If you want to do your trim in an updated way you can apply Light Pewter all across your baseboard, wall, and crown.'

Pictured above, KLH Designs has used Light Pewter in two finishes to line an elegant arched hallway, connecting various areas of the home. Caroline says she's used the shade in a similar application – to coat a paneled hallway leading into her primary bedroom. 'I live with it and love it,' she says.

7. Add subtle warmth to your space with Light Pewter

'I love that it's not a cold gray or beige that feels too yellow (two things I always try to avoid),' says Rebecca of Light Pewter. 'It has a beautiful warmth that makes the room feel comfortable, and a subtle creaminess that prevents it from ever feeling stark.'

In this bedroom, located on the Upper West Side of New York City, she took advantage of the color's creamy tones to place it alongside other beiges, mauves, and rosey hues. 'It's also a chameleon,' she says. 'It can read as soft, almost ethereal off-white, while under the glow of a lamp, it reads a bit deeper and more pewter-like.'

Bring a touch of Light Pewter home

Love the look of Light Pewter, but not ready to paint? The versatile gray-beige shade also serves the home well in small doses, adding texture and depth all across the house.

Using Light Pewter as a neutral (yet complex) foundation opens up near-endless options for color pairing, one reason of many that designers cite for relying on this shade. Whether pairing with white for contrast, or something a bit bolder, it serves as a reliable go-to hue.

'My favorite color pairings include layering in other warm grays like Smoke Embers 1466 and Seattle Mist 1535,' says Arianna Barone, color marketing manager at Benjamin Moore. 'To bring in more saturated hues, incorporate colors like Van Courtland Blue HC-145, Atmospheric AF-500 and Dusk to Dawn 1446.'

It isn't as simple as just picking up your plants and placing them inside of your greenhouse ideas though. In fact, there are many commonly made greenhouse mistakes that lead to plants facing trouble, from wilting to scorching under the sun's intensity, as well as threatening the longevity of your greenhouse structure.

To navigate these pitfalls and ensure your greenhouse plants stay on top form, we talked to plant experts to hear about the most frequently made greenhouse mistakes and why each can be detrimental to your plants. Once you're in the know about these five key greenhouse mistakes, you'll be all set to curate the greenhouse of your dreams.

1. Purchasing a low quality greenhouse

It may be tempting to purchase the cheapest greenhouse you can find for your garden ideas, but a greenhouse of higher quality is worth the investment and will last far longer.

Skip Richter, owner of Gardening With Skip, says, 'Many cheaper greenhouses are unfortunately rather short lived, difficult to use and will soon enough need to be replaced.'

The worth garden 4 tier mini greenhouse from Amazon is a popular choice for people planning a greenhouse on the smaller side. Though be mindful about the size of your greenhouse: if you purchase one too small there either won't be enough space for your plants or your plants will become crowded, competing for moisture and space.

2. Having poor ventilation inside a greenhouse

It's important to open the windows and doors of your greenhouse on particularly warm days, even if you're growing tropical garden ideas. Many people forget that greenhouses need air, and poorly ventilated greenhouse creates the perfect environment to stifle your plant's ability to breathe, exposing them to all kinds of dangerous diseases.

Reese L. Robbins, creator of Just Pure Gardening, says, 'Without good airflow, heat and humidity build up quickly, creating ideal conditions for fungal diseases like botrytis and powdery mildew. Plants may also suffer from heat stress.'

Clipping a fan like the AC infinity Cloudray from Amazon onto a shelf in your greenhouse to help circulate airflow can also be a great help in preventing stagnant air.

3. Positioning your greenhouse in the direct sun

Glass gets incredibly warm on hot days. You may have felt it before in a conservatory or while sitting in an overly-toasty car. If your greenhouse has no shade it will become a sauna during the summer, which is far too hot for the the best food to grow in greenhouses and other plants to handle.

'Many gardeners forget that greenhouses can become scorching in midsummer,' says Reese. 'Without shade, indoor plants for direct sunlight can suffer leaf scorch and stunted growth.'

To remedy this, do what you can to place your greenhouse in part shade or install a shade cloth like this shade cloth from Amazon to the roof of your greenhouse. This cloth still allows light to come in but takes the edge off of it so your plants won't burn.

4. Using garden soil in greenhouse containers

Similar to a cold frame, the artificial climate of a greenhouse is different to that of a garden, so the soil needs to be different to accommodate it. It's a common error for people to use the same soil types everywhere in their yard, but doing so will leave most of your greenhouse container plants waterlogged.

'Using regular garden soil in pots inside a greenhouse is a mistake,' says Reese. 'It's heavy, drains poorly, and can introduce pests and pathogens. Use a sterile, well-draining potting mix instead. It’s lighter and reduces disease risks significantly.'

The jiffy natural & organic soil mix from Amazon is a popular choice, providing aeration for plant roots as well as nutrients.

5. Using dirty tools, containers and covers

Reusing pots and tools in your greenhouse between different plants may not seem like a problem at all, but it can actually cause a lot of issues down the line. If diseases spread from plant to plant, the humid conditions of a greenhouse will encourage bacteria to develop faster, bringing rapid harm to your plants.

Tatiana B. Anderson, a tropical plant expert at TopTropicals.com, says, 'Reusing dirty pots or tools spreads disease. Clean garden tools and disinfect containers and trays regularly using a diluted bleach solution to clean clear plastic or ground covers if they show mold or algae buildup.'

You can wipe surfaces down, including cleaning the greenhouse itself, with natural cleaning agents such as lemon and baking soda, or white vinegar.

If you're into DIY, why not consider making your own greenhouse? There are endless DIY greenhouse ideas out there to try in different shapes and sizes, and some of these are ideal for smaller garden plots and even balconies.

It might not be the most well-known solution for removing burnt food, but coffee grounds are one of the best non-toxic, food-safe abrasives for cleaning cookware, though there is one type of pan to avoid using it on.

Here, professional cleaners explain how to use coffee grounds to clean pans, adding to the long (and somewhat bizarre) list of ways you can clean a kitchen with coffee grounds.

How to clean pans with coffee grounds

Cleaning pans with coffee grounds works the same way as cleaning with baking soda.

When the coffee grounds are damp and form a spreadable paste, you can use a cloth, such as a Swedish dish cloth from Walmart, to buff away at stuck-on food or burnt spots on your pans, but steer clear of enameled or non-stick pans.

Scott Schrader, professional cleaner at CottageCare, explains, ‘Coffee grounds work the best for cleaning cast iron and cleaning stainless-steel pans; the coarse texture of the grounds works to lift off stuck-on food and residue with minimal chemicals.

'Simply grab a small handful of used, cooled coffee grounds and gently scrub with a damp sponge or towel. Rinse well to avoid residual grounds.

‘Do not use coffee grinds on non-stick pans or enameled cookware,’ Scott warns. ‘This is where the coffee grounds will be too abrasive and can scratch the surface or leave behind tiny pieces of the grounds that can affect the integrity of the pan over time.’

Generally, we advise investing in the best non-toxic cookware rather than non-stick, to help create a non-toxic home.

Coffee grounds have the added benefit of being one of the best natural deodorizers for use at home, Scott adds. ‘They are a good option to remove odor from things like garlic or fish without having to use a synthetic cleaner, not to mention, a clever alternative to repurpose something that you would likely toss.’

What to avoid

This is not to say that you should use coffee grounds to clean pans all of the time, however.

Jade Piper, operations manager at BetterCleans, adds, ‘I get the appeal because it sounds clever and eco-friendly. Coffee grounds can be a handy natural scrubber; however, they will clog the drain. They don’t dissolve and instead will clump together like damp sand. And if there’s grease, the grounds will latch onto it. It’s like building a little cement wall inside.’

It is one of the many reasons why unfiltered coffee is one of the many liquids you should never pour down your sink.

Luckily, there is one way around it, Jade adds. ‘If you’re curious and still want to try it, just don’t rinse the grounds down the sink. Scrape them into the trash or compost. But honestly, I’d rather use Dawn dish soap, available from Walmart, and a sponge to clean my pans. Way less risky and no problem rinsing down the drain!’

If you do end up with a clogged sink that won't drain, our dedicated guide will help you fix it.

What to shop

FAQs

Can bacteria grow in coffee grounds?

Wet coffee grounds can grow bacteria and go moldy, so if you are planning to use them for cleaning, ensure you do so as soon as they are cooled enough to touch after brewing coffee. Do not allow damp coffee grounds to sit out overnight.

Meet the experts

Coffee grounds are not the only foods you can clean your home with, if you are looking for some non-toxic, zero-waste alternatives to commercial products.

That's where SharkNinja comes in. Their latest lineup of outdoor-friendly Ninja cooking appliances is designed to take the stress out of hosting, allowing you to spend less time in the kitchen and more time savoring the occasion. Whether you're firing up the grill for a hungry crowd or blending frozen piña coladas poolside, these smart, cutting-edge tools do all the heavy lifting for you, while you still get to take all the credit. From a sleek portable air fryer that's as stylish as it is practical to a frozen drink maker that instantly turns every backyard into a tropical getaway, each product is thoughtfully designed to elevate your hosting experience and make it feel completely effortless.

And the innovation doesn't stop at dessert.

Here are four standout Ninja appliances that will help you make the most of every gathering you host this summer.

Must-Have Summer Cooking Appliances

Of course, monetary value might not always be at the forefront of our minds when thrifting. Many interior designers advise following your heart and buying what you love for your home; however, having something that also increases in value can only be a win-win. While instinct is a useful guide, doing that little bit of extra research to gain that insider knowledge might just pay off.

So, how can you ensure your vintage buys only increase in value? To help steer your second-hand sourcing, we asked antique dealers and interior designers who love decorating with vintage and thrifted finds for their top tips.

1. Invest in high quality pieces in good condition

When it comes to antiques and thrifted vintage buys, most dealers and interior designers agree that if you want something to retain its value, then condition matters.

‘I always tell clients to look for quality craftsmanship. Solid wood construction, dovetail joints, and original hardware are all great indicators of lasting value,’ says Tracy Morris, founder of Tracy Morris Design. ‘For example, when sourcing a chest of drawers, I look for smooth-gliding drawers, sturdy legs, and elegant proportions – those details speak to both longevity and timeless appeal. If something feels special and well-made, it’s often worth the investment.’

Similarly, it’s best to avoid broken or damaged items when sourcing vintage pieces that you want to increase in value. ‘I steer clear of anything that has tipped from rustic into decaying. If the piece is riddled with wormholes, structurally unsound, or has been smothered by overzealous repairs, it is rarely worth investing in,’ adds Susannah Cameron, founder of Chez Pluie, the online store based in Provence that specializes in French antiques.

‘Choose pieces that have stood the test of time without losing their soul,’ adds Susannan. ‘If a piece has been restored, learn what was done and how. Restoration should be sympathetic and respectful of original techniques, particularly with timber. Honest dealers will be upfront about repairs, replacements, or quirks like absent keys and modified fittings.’

2. Buy pieces with provenance – look for stamps, labels, or makers' marks

Knowing the provenance and history of an item is key when buying antiques that will increase in value. Items that come with proof of their origins and history will hold their value, as it will give future buyers peace of mind.

‘Make certain the provenance and construction are well documented,’ says Susannah. ‘The best finds come with a story worth retelling. A product description should include the age of the piece, the maker, the material and finishes, and the country or region of origin (cast iron, walnut, blown glass, vernis Martin, etc).’

Pieces from known makers or those that are limited edition, or come with a unique back story, often tend to retain their value and are key collectables interior designers always look for, so keep your eyes peeled for evidence, say the experts. ‘Stamps, labels, or makers' marks, usually found on the underside or back of a piece, offer valuable clues,’ says Dallen Russell, of InSite Builders & Remodeling.

Look for signatures on art, hallmarks on silver or labels on furniture. In addition, ‘original packaging or documentation can significantly increase an item’s value,’ explains Dallen Russell. ‘These details confirm authenticity and are especially appealing to collectors who appreciate a piece’s complete history.’

3. Choose well preserved items from collectable eras

Pieces which are good quality examples of collectable eras, such as Mid-century furniture, are a good bet when looking for investment buys. ‘Pieces with a clear provenance or from known makers tend to hold their worth and even appreciate over time,’ explains Tracy Morris. ‘Trust your eye but also do a little research; the more you know about styles and periods, the better your chances of spotting a gem.’

'High-quality mid-century furniture (anything Danish, signed, stamped) is typically worth quite a bit and can be very collectible,' explains Virginia Chamlee, author of Big Thrift Energy. 'Similarly, French Art Deco is highly collectable, though there are a lot of copies on the market (interestingly, though, even some of the copies – those actually made in the same period – can also be valuable).'

Recognizing classic shapes and timeless designs is key to understanding long-term value, adds Dallen Russell. ‘In furniture, this might range from the elegance of the French Rococo period to the minimalist appeal of a Parsons table – styles that have endured for generations. In homeware, vintage copper cookware, ironstone serving pieces, and mid-century glassware are examples of sought-after pieces that continue to appeal to collectors and appreciate in value.’

4. Develop your knowledge of a certain area

To ensure antique and vintage items only increase in value, think about specializing in a certain area. The antiques world is vast and prices and trends are constantly changing, so there’s no way you’ll ever be an expert on it all, so think about focusing on a certain era, maker, or genre you are interested in suggests Suzannah Cameron.

‘Follow your own curiosity and cultivate knowledge in specific areas. With time, your eye sharpens. You’ll begin to recognize a silver hallmark at a glance, a familiar painter’s hand, or a distinctive glaze used in a particular region. Look for subtle clues that confirm the maker, such as the X beneath a piece of Moustiers faïence or the ET initials under Émile Tessier’s ceramics.’

With a passion for French antiques, Susannah is always on the look out for timeless pieces, including 'pottery from the southwest of France; Biot jars – the semi-glazed Provençal storage vessels that lend themselves to both indoor and outdoor settings; wicker in all forms, from armchairs to harvest baskets and early 20th-century Bentwood bistro chairs — especially those stamped Thonet.'.

5. Be prepared to play the long game

If you’re looking specifically for vintage items to sell on, then you’ll need to think ahead of the game and be prepared to wait a while, say the experts.

‘Sometimes, thrifting for resale is like playing the long game – you have to buy things before they are super popular. This is where looking at shelter publications and Pinterest, and Instagram comes in. What are the big-name interior designers buying?’ advises Virginia Chamlee.

‘If you see a table at a thrift store that you noted in a recent video for a celebrity home, that's probably a good buy. You almost have to foresee vintage trends a few months or even years ahead of time.'

A seasoned thrifter, Virginia is experienced in spotting items before they surge in popularity. Recently, she has seen an uplift in the sale of vintage quilts, which luckily she has been collecting for years. ‘Something I've been thrifting and saving for years are crazy quilts (patchwork quilts that have kind of an Americana quality). I've always been drawn to these, and over the past five years or so, they've started to pop up in a lot of designer spaces. So that was an early investment that paid off,’ says Virginia.

6. Buy what you love

When looking for vintage items that will grow in value, you need to ask yourself what value you’re looking for – do you want something to sell on, or do you want something that will bring you joy and add value to your interiors for years to come?

‘I tell clients not to get too caught up in resale value right away. If something is well-constructed and emotionally resonant, it’s likely to stand the test of time. The best rooms aren’t full of investment pieces, they’re full of things that feel personal,’ says Sara Swabb.

‘Buy things you love. Buy it because it speaks to you, not because you think it's valuable, trendy, or simply a great deal or find,’ echoes Molly Kunselman, founder and principal designer at Molly Kenselman Design. ‘If you find an item you love, but it has a blemish such as a ceramic piece with a small chip, buy it anyway. You can probably barter the price down due to the blemish, but more importantly, a small imperfection speaks to the story the piece is a part of that extends before and (possibly) after you.’

7. Take care of your antiques

It’s not just buying the right things that ensures antiques go up in value; it’s also how you care for them. Be sure to keep them in tip-top condition

‘Once you’ve thrifted a gem, preservation is key,’ says interior designer Magda Callery. ‘Keep wood moisturized, avoid direct sunlight on artwork, and use museum putty or archival materials where appropriate. A piece's condition can make or break its long-term worth.’

Of course, that doesn’t mean keeping antiques under lock and key or never using them; however, if something is particularly valuable or fragile, make sure it is stored or displayed safely.

‘I do believe that most vintage pieces retain their value, provided they are of a certain quality. The easiest way to ensure vintage buys retain their value is by placing them in areas that are not high-traffic. Once a vintage piece is damaged, it can be difficult to sell it,’ adds interior designer Alexandra Azat, founder of Plaster & Patina.

Ultimately, if you're searching for antique and vintage buys to elevate your home, then it all comes down to personal taste. However, if you are looking for investment pieces, then to ensure your thrifted pieces grow in value, always choose pieces that are in good condition and have provenance, say the experts. Taking time to research makers and eras you are interested in is also advised.

'When buying vintage or antique pieces, I always ask: is it well-made, is it useful, and does it tell a story? Items that check those boxes tend to hold or grow in value, especially if the piece reflects quality craftsmanship, provenance, or timeless design,' says Sara Swabb.

Staying on top of clutter can also help to make your shed safer, giving you more space to move and work while limiting the risk of items falling and breaking or landing on you.

Here, professional home organizers explain how to declutter a shed properly and dispose of those awkward items, to make your shed organization ideas shine.

How to declutter a shed

Streamlining your shed ideas is not unlike tackling any other area of your home.

Setting aside a good chunk of time, keeping focus, and using the best decluttering methods can help you quickly pare back the impractical for more functional storage space in your shed.

1. Empty everything out

If you're not sure where to start when decluttering your shed, simply take everything out. It might seem like a lot of work, but laying out all of your items, categorizing them by use or season, can help you see the bigger picture and make getting rid of items simpler.

This is known as the chaos method, as it looks pretty chaotic for a short while, but trust us, it has so many benefits and really works.

This step can also help you weed out any items that you can toss right away. Having some extra heavy-duty trash bags, available from The Home Depot, can help with this.

To protect your hands, consider wearing thick work gloves, also from the Home Depot, to avoid splinters and prevent cutting yourself on any unexpected screws, glass, or metal.

2. When did you last use it?

With your storage ideas for sheds empty, work out what to keep by picking out what you use most.

Angelia York, VP of Saint Louis Closet Co., suggests, ‘ask yourself when the last time you used the item was. If you haven’t used it within the last year, and it's not seasonal or sentimental, it’s time to let it go. Broken tools, items that are repeats, and outdated supplies are your top items to get rid of. Keep only what you actually use and have space for.’

The same goes for duplicate items, adds Carrol Cartwright, professional home organizer and founder of Neatly & Co.. ‘Edit down your selection. Do you really need eight of the same size shovel? If it’s something you use and love, keep it. Just store it in a way that makes sense to optimize storage to avoid duplicates and avoid making another last-minute run to the hardware store.’

3. Prioritize function

When working in a practical space such as a shed, it pays to be ruthless when decluttering. Keep only the items that work well, getting rid of anything that has seen better days, and store them in a way that will not only make them easier to find but will keep them in top shape, too.

Carrol continues, ‘If you’re digging around to find your favorite trowel every time you garden, something needs to change. Make sure there’s proper storage for both small tools and bigger items like rakes and shovels.'

A freestanding rack for organizing yard tools from Amazon will come in handy.

'If you're unable to dedicate drawers, get creative. Use baskets [such as these black wire grid baskets, from The Container Store] to store different tools, but ensure everything has its place! When everything has a home, it’s easier to keep things in check.’

4. Check expiration dates

You might not be decluttering a pantry, but several common shed items have similar expiration dates. Items such as paint, pool chemicals, and fertilizer can all ‘go off’.

Jeremy Yamaguchi, CEO at Cabana, says, ‘Go through all of your items that have an expiration date and check those dates. This could be anything from pool chemicals to cleaning products, to fertilizer. Discard whatever has expired and make a note of what you need to repurchase.’

For products that you need to decant, or where the packaging is likely to be damaged, make expiration dates clearer by using a label maker, from Walmart, to keep tabs on use-by dates.

It's worth adding your shed to your expiration sweep, which experts recommend doing through the house and yard at least once a year.

5. Check local guidance for tricky items

Unlike decluttering a closet or bathroom, not everything you choose to get rid of from your shed can be tossed in the trash or donated.

Angelia says, ‘For tricky items like paint, pesticides, and large tools, check your local waste management or recycling center’s guidelines. Never toss these in the regular trash.’

6. Donate extras

Not sure what to do with the items you are decluttering? Carol suggests, ‘If your tools are still in good shape but you no longer need them, consider donating to a local charity, school garden, or community plot. Many will gladly take gently used tools and supplies.’

Assess the quality of the item and its usefulness to help you decide if you should donate or sell decluttered items. Larger tools and appliances could find good homes through local online marketplaces, for example, giving you a few extra funds towards a new shed or home organizing essentials.

What to shop

Meet the experts

While you are decluttering a shed, check for some of the items never to store in a shed and remove them, too. Not only will it make your shed more organized, but it can also help items such as electronic tools, seeds, and paint last longer, too.

Rather than seeds and nuts loved by other wild birds, hummingbirds like to feast on nectar. While planting certain flowers can attract them, you can also make your own hummingbird food to fill up a special hummingbird feeder.

Put it out at the right time of year in the right place, and, with a bit of luck, your feathered friends will soon come flocking. But this sugary mixture, combined with warm temperatures, can soon lead to mold growth. We have spoken to wildlife experts to find out exactly what to do if you see anything suspect, and how to prevent it in future.

How to clean black mold off a hummingbird feeder

If you've seen something suspect, the best thing to do is take your feeder down straight away and give it a good clean. As Ben Team, wildlife expert of FootstepsInTheForest.com, points out, mold can cause health concerns for the birds or trigger them to stop visiting the feeder. An example of the former is candidiasis, a potentially fatal infection that makes their tongues swell, preventing them from eating.

Cleaning a hummingbird feeder is really quite straightforward, and doesn't require anything fancy. In fact, both Ben and Yaron Lief, the president of mold-remediation experts Orange Restoration San Diego, recommend using water and vinegar.

'Start by emptying the feeder completely,' says Yaron. 'Rinse it with hot water, then soak it in a mixture of one part white vinegar to four parts water.' He then recommends scrubbing all the surfaces thoroughly, with the help of a bottle brush or a pipe cleaner. 'Pay special attention to small crevices and feeding ports,' he says.

Once your feeder is clean, give it a good rinse. You'll want to ensure you can no longer detect the odor of vinegar, Ben advises. You can then refill it with fresh food and pop it back outside.

'Avoid using soap or bleach unless necessary,' adds Yaron. 'If you do, rinse thoroughly to make sure no residue is left behind.'

Charlie Leduc of Axxonlab, another pro at tackling mold, says that all mold, regardless of species, is allergenic and carries potential exposure risk to all organisms. He advises wearing disposable nitrile gloves when cleaning surface mold of any kind. 'Mold can be a dermal irritant, especially for those with compromised immune systems, or allergies to mold and shellfish.'

How to prevent it from happening again

'To avoid mold developing in the future, be sure to empty, clean, and refill your hummingbird feeder regularly – at least once per week in cool weather and every few days when the temperatures are high,' says Ben.

Yaron also recommends keeping the feeder in a shaded area to slow down fermentation, and to always use the proper nectar ratio. 'Avoid adding dyes, honey, or anything else, as those can speed up mold growth,' he adds.

FAQs

Are some hummingbird feeders easier to clean than others?

Buying a complicated design that's fiddly to clean is a hummingbird feeder mistake you'll quickly come to realize. Instead, look for something simpler, such as The Sweet Spot™ hummingbird feeder from Jacobi Jayne® at Amazon, which comes with its own cleaning brush, or Nature's Way's mason jar design.

I don't have time to regularly clean my feeder – how else can I attract hummingbirds?

It's true, using a hummingbird feeder responsibly means cleaning and refilling it often – and not everyone has the time to do so. Rather than risk harming these winged wonders, look to other ways to attract hummingbirds to your yard. Certain native spring flowers, types of trees, and even the color red can all help.

Are you looking for more troubleshooting advice on hummingbird feeders? If you need to know how to keep ants out of your feeder or even bees, we've rounded up practical tips to help. And if you're thinking of buying a hummingbird house to support these visitors even further, you'll definitely want to reconsider after reading our guide.

There is something very satisfying about plotting your herb garden ideas, but don't forget that many herbs grow splendidly in a window box, especially one sitting in a sunny spot. These six herbs will all make for happy bedfellows, and work together to create a beautiful planting palette, will burst with aroma and offer a range in color, height, and form, and aside from a little gentler intervention, are all, on the whole, fairly low maintenance and faff free. Perfect if you are planning for window boxes close to your kitchen garden.

Here, we look at six beautiful and utterly delicious herbs that grow well together, all worthy of a spot in your window box display.

1. Chives

One of the best plants to grow in a window box is the optimistic and never-failing chive. Even if your window box isn't strictly reserved for herbs, it should feature in your container gardening in some form; it's pretty, always aflutter with bees and butterflies, and most importantly perhaps, they're delicious.

Knowing how to grow chives is refreshingly straightforward and fuss-free. They're some of the easiest herbs to grow at home, so if you're planning a window box display or creating an herb garden, these pretty (and tasty) herbs should have a firm place on the roster.

You can grow chives from seed in early spring (if you have a greenhouse or propagator), but if you are planting in summer, it is worth buying them as plants, like this chive plant available at Burpee.

One of the keys to helping your chives flourish is to harvest chives from May until September to keep the plant productive, as it encourages new growth.

Chives can be used in a plethora of summer recipes, and the beautiful purple chive flowers, which look a little like scabious, are also wonderful for pollinators, and are equally as delicious when tossed through salads or roasted with chicken.

2. Marjoram

Naturally compact herbs, like marjoram, work well in all but the smallest window boxes. Marjoram is a beautiful herb, with bright acid acid-green leaves that look fantastic in the summer months. I grow it around my roses alongside Alchemilla mollis and catmint, and the zesty green of marjoram always gets the most compliments.

Marjoram flowers are very popular with bees and butterflies, and the flowers and leaves can be picked all throughout the summer, and are a mainstay in Mediterranean cooking, especially with tomato dishes and salads.

In zones 9 and above, marjoram is a perennial and can be left in the ground. In cooler areas, marjoram is an annual and may be potted up at the end of the season and placed in a sunny window indoors. You can keep plants trimmed by cutting the leaves throughout the growing season.

It is worth bearing in mind that some marjoram plants are grown as ornamental rather than edible plants, so if you wish to use them in your culinary creations, I recommend sweet marjoram, like these seeds available at Amazon, which can be eaten fresh, dried, or frozen for use in the winter.

3. Sage

In my opinion, no herb garden is complete without a sprawling mass of sage. You can buy sage as seeds or a plant, like this sage plant available at Burpee, and it's cut and come again, so you can keep cooking with it, and it will keep flourishing.

Sage is a Mediterranean native, so it will thrive in the same conditions as chives and marjoram; that is to say, none like to be overwatered and soggy, and all will be happy bedfellows. Sage can be grown in USDA hardiness zones 4-10, and it is a drought-tolerant herb that prefers drier soil.

Use a slow-release fertilizer in the soil during planting to help give the young plant a good start, like this garden food available at Nature Hills.

4. Chamomile

Knowing how to grow chamomile and implementing this beautifully aromatic herb into your garden will only result in one vexing issue: a strong feeling of 'why didn't I do this sooner?'

Chamomile can help neighboring plants increase their essential oils and improve the flavor and general health of the plants, so it is a particularly helpful neighbor for your other herbs in your window box. It produces pretty white flowers, smells heavenly, and is particularly suited to containers, since it tends to be unruly if planted inthe ground.

Of course, as chamomile is known for its soothing properties, you can make your own herbal tea using your homegrown chamomile, but the aesthetic and culinary reach of chamomile is far broader.

Dwarf varieties are best for window boxes, containers, or as border edgings. The main distinction to bear in mind is: German Chamomile is an annual, and Roman Chamomile is a perennial.

As such, I have always grown Roman Chamomile, like this Roman Chamomile available at Burpee. It thrives in small window boxes, loves sunny spots, and is delightful when added to summer jams, cakes, and even added to bath salts.

5. Rosemary

A herb window box would not be complete without the beautiful architectural shape and structure of rosemary. If you haven't grown rosemary before, rest assured, once you learn how to grow rosemary, you will be wanting to grow it all around your yard, so delicious is its fragrance and so fuss-free is its growing habit.

Rosemary, like all of these herbs, likes well-drained soil and to be positioned in a sunny spot. If you have a sun-drenched windowsill, rosemary, like all of these herbs, will be very content.

If you live in zone 6 or lower, you will need to bring rosemary indoors over winter; otherwise, it will remain outdoors without complaint and will maintain its wonderful scent and structure, so it can be used in winter cooking (hello, roast lamb!)

It is possible to grow rosemary from seed in the spring; however, germination takes a while and has a low success rate, so it is worth growing from a young plant, like this Rosemary available at Mountain Valley Growers.

6. Dill

Dill, Anethum graveolens, is a beautiful plant to add to window boxes; it has wonderful feathery leaves, which add a different texture and layer of visual interest (and would work wonderfully partnered with the other herbs on the list) it is a favorite of bees and butterflies, and is delightful in all kinds of fish recipes.

Dill flowers are bright yellow umbels, and they are friendly, smile-inducing flowers, reminiscent of summer.

Dill, like most herbs, grows best in the sun, so it is perfectly suited to a sunny windowsill. If overwatered, dill is susceptible to powdery mildew, so it is best to water lightly, as with all of its neighboring herbs.

Dill flavor is best when it starts to flower. The stems, leaves, flowers, and seeds are edible, so it is wonderfully giving in that respect.

There are many varieties of dill. I recommend a variety called ‘Bouquet'. It is very low maintenance and, since it is a dwarf variety, a good choice for growing in smaller containers, like a window box. Dill is very easy to grow from seed, like these dill seeds available at MI Gardener.

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The important thing to remember when choosing varieties of herbs to be planted together is to select herbs that favor similar conditions.

Many of these herbs would work wonderfully as indoor herb ideas, too, if you have room on sunny windowsills, many herbs will thrive.

That’s why for nearly a decade, I have sworn by a portable blackout blind from Amazon in the hottest, sunniest rooms of my home.

It's been a great way to cool down a home without AC, both while my daughter was a baby and now for our south-facing rooms in the summer.

Why portable blackout curtains are so useful

Portable blackout curtains are affordable, usually costing $20-40, quickly and easily suction onto your windows, and can be removed without damage.

They can be adjusted with Velcro tabs to fit the sits of your window, and be packed away neatly, or taken with you on vacation or short trips when you need.

And, once summer, or a particularly gnarly heatwave, has finished, you can fold it up and store it in its pouch.

This leaves your usual window treatment ideas looking as lovely as ever, without any permanent alterations for extra cooling power.

Portable blackout curtains are made from dense materials that help block the sun’s heat from entering through your windows, or warming up your furniture, flooring or the air inside your home.

This helps to physically stop the heat coming in when not much else can.

I began using it in my daughter’s nursery when she was a few months old as a good way to cool down a bedroom fast, and we hit a hot summer, and simply packed it up in its pouch to take everywhere we went.

Doubling up with a portable blackout curtain is a great way to keep a home cool in a heatwave.

What to shop

Using a cross draft in your home is another way to cool down rooms, as well as switching the direction of your fan.