And, if there’s one thing I’ve learned, it is that sharp tools make all the difference. Indeed, getting into the habit of cleaning and sharpening pruning shears every few weeks is transformative (plus, it is what all the pro gardeners do on a regular basis).

There are plenty of sharpening tools out there, but the Okatsune sharpening stone for pruners, available via Amazon, is one that stands out – and the reviews prove it. So, before you bin your old loppers or secateurs, why not give them a second chance... you might be surprised by the result.

What are people saying about the Okatsune sharpening stone?

Many gardeners are impressed with the utility of this product. Several Amazon reviews highlight how effective this Okatsune sharpening stone is, working even on older, neglected essential pruning tools and rusty tools.

One five-star review in March 2025 stated that: 'The length makes it perfect for angular and corner usage.'

Another five-star review from July 2024 said: 'It's slender, so you can hold it in your hand and sharpen quickly; it feels moist and is easy to use even for beginners.'

Other reviews mention not only how simple this essential gardening tool is, but also how it can be used for a range of pruners, including loppers, shears, secateurs and scissors.

However, one three-star review, recorded in May 2025, commented that while it is effective, 'this whetstone is quite soft, so it wears out quickly.'

Some other reviews agreed, mentioning the softness of the stone, with indentations and marking visible, wondering how long it will last for.

So, while the reviews are overwhelmingly positive, it is important to consider that this sharpening stone might not last forever, suffering from wear and tear, gradually losing effectiveness as you sharpen your tools.

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How to use a sharpening stone

Using a sharpening stone is incredibly easy. To begin, it is crucial to learn how to clean pruning shears and secateurs, using soapy warm water. Then, dry thoroughly, using an old rag from the garden shed.

Holding the pruners steady, run the stone along the bevelled edge of the blade.

I always suggest following the curve and the angle of the blade, in a swooping motion, using smooth, even strokes, working from base to tip.

Depending on the state of your blades, five or so passes might do it. Although if you blades are in a poor quality, you might need to keep going for a minute or so.

Then, when you are happy, flip and lightly buff the flat side to remove any uneven bits or burrs.

A word of caution. Do not touch the sharpened blade. It will be incredible sharp, and can cause harm even with a light touch.

Finally, wipe clean with a damp rag. Then, I tend to dab a small amount of camellia oil, available from Amazon, lightly over the blades, to lubricate and protect steel blades from rusting.

So, whether you are pruning ninebark or pruning red twig dogwoods, or anything else for that matter, taking the time to sharpen your tools can really make this a far easier (and more enjoyable) experience.

For more garden maintenance information, see our guide on how to prevent pruning shears from rusting, and keep your tools in tip-top shape this year.

It opens up doors to cultivating watermelons in smaller urban spaces. While growing watermelons vertically requires planning and attention, it saves on space, helps keep plants healthy, and even potentially increases harvests.

If you want to grow watermelons in small vegetable gardens, we are here to help. I spoke to some experienced growers to reveal the tips and tricks you need to know to grow watermelons vertically successfully.

Can you grow watermelon vertically?

Yes, you can certainly grow watermelons vertically in small gardens, raised beds, or even large containers. It takes some degree of skill to grow crops in a vertical garden, but when you get it right, there are tangible benefits to doing so.

Not only does it save space, but the improved air circulation reduces the risk of fungal diseases, and increased exposure to the sun helps to ripen the fruits.

Finally, as the fruits are off the ground, there is a lower risk of pests nibbling them. So, when you pick a watermelon, the fruit is more likely to be blemish-free.

1. Pick a smaller variety

Watermelons are known as weighty fruits. While you can theoretically grow any type of watermelon vertically, you make life a lot easier for yourself by picking smaller varieties to do so with.

‘Smaller varieties like the ‘Sugar Baby’, ‘Golden Midget’, or ‘Mini Love’ are ideal for vertical growing since they are smaller and less heavy than larger varieties, which will become too heavy for a support structure,’ says experienced horticulturist Michael Clarke.

While commercial watermelon growers have the setup to grow larger varieties, smaller types are always simpler and more suited to grow vertically in home backyards.

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2. Use a sturdy structure

Creating a strong vertical trellis is integral to support the weight of the watermelons as they grow, again emphasising why smaller-fruiting varieties are more recommended.

A strong A-frame or vertical vegetable garden trellis can be made of wood or metal, and Michael Clarke advises making sure it can hold ‘at least 20–30 pounds per vine’.

‘Cattle panels or welded wire fencing can be good metal options because of their strength and ease of training vines,’ he says. ‘Make sure to anchor the structure securely, especially in windy areas.’

It is always recommended to have the climbing plant support in place when you plant watermelons, to avoid damaging the plants by installing it later.

A garden box planter with a trellis like this at Walmart offers a ready-made, sturdy setup for growing watermelons vertically, along with any other climbing plants.

3. Regularly train the vines

You need to tie in the vines regularly using soft ties such as garden twine, rope, or cloth strips. Tie them with a loose figure-of-eight loop, avoiding metal ties or tying too tightly, as this can damage the stems.

‘As your watermelon vines grow, you’ll need to tie the vines frequently,’ advises Lotte Berendsen, an expert from PlantIn app. ‘Take some time to evaluate your watermelon’s vines each day as it grows.

‘Watermelons are not natural climbers, so you’ll need to continue attaching the vines frequently. To make sure the plant continues to grow upward, tie the vines as they begin to grow away from the trellis.’

You can prune watermelon plants as they develop to train a selected number of main vines up the trellis, rather than taking the time and effort to tie in and train all stems that develop, as the trellis can get crowded.

4. Support fruits as they develop

Even smaller-fruiting types need the fruits to be supported on the trellis to prevent the vines from falling. Not protecting the fruits risks them dropping to the floor, but it can be quick and simple to protect them from this devastating sequence of events.

‘We recommend creating a sling, from old fabric or a net, to create support for the fruits,’ says Lotte Berendsen. ‘Attach the fabric or net with the fruit inside to the trellis, and allow the fruits to grow into the sling.’

You can use a range of materials to create a sling from, including old t-shirts, pantyhose, stretchy fabric or mesh produce bags.

They want to be put in place once the fruit weighs a few pounds and is around the size of a softball, allowing them to cradle and support the maturing watermelons as they ripen.

FAQs

How tall should a trellis be for watermelon?

A watermelon plant can put out vines that reach 8-10 feet, depending on the variety. However, as you should grow smaller varieties, then a trellis needs to be 6-8 feet tall to accommodate the plant’s stems. It needs to be tall enough for the vines and wide enough to tie at least two main vines up, which will tend to grow around two feet apart.

For the healthiest, thriving watermelons, always plant them in a spot with full sun, warm temperatures around 80°F and fertile, well-draining soil. And to keep them pest-free during the season, companion plant watermelons alongside alliums, aromatic herbs, or marigolds to deter common pests and attract beneficial predators to feed on unwanted visitors.

In extreme conditions, birds can suffer from heat stress, leaving them disoriented and unwell. In some cases, it can prove fatal. Fortunately, there are elegant and effective ways to support their wellbeing, helping these remarkable creatures not only survive, but truly thrive.

Belavi, ALDI’s gardening and patio furniture and accessory line, recently released a mountable bird bath to provide our feathered friends with hydration in the summer.

The smart-looking Round Bird Drinking Trough is only $9.99, and it’ll fit in any corner of your small backyard, balcony, or porch. The bird bath is available in two different designs for you to choose from. The Green Frog option is perfect for colorful spaces and will entice children to want to learn about how to feed birds and general wildlife welfare.

'It is important to help garden birds in summer by providing access to water. As the temperatures soar during July and August, cardinals, finches, and hummingbirds will be grateful for refreshment,' explains Thom Rutter, a garden expert on Homes & Gardens.

'Bird baths come in a range of shapes and sizes, and many, like this model from ALDI, come with an easy-to-use mount, which is ideal for gardeners and birdwatchers with small outside spaces, including balcony gardens or small terraces.'

Keep the water fresh and topped up every other day, and be sure to learn how to clean a bird bath, using a non-toxic product such as this bird table cleaner, available from Amazon.

Then, simply sit back and watch as birds stop by for a drink at your backyard watering station.

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ALDI's bird baths usually sell out within a week, so we expect this one will likely disappear quickly, too.

Of course, if you don't live near an ALDI, Amazon's selection of mounted bird baths is equally good, and they come highly rated. Below, I've listed some of my other favorite options for avian enthusiasts.

Marjoram has deeply aromatic, grey-green leaves and beautiful, dainty, edible flowers. It's a stalwart aromatic herb used in Mediterranean cooking, and if you're looking for herb garden ideas, this deliciously scented herb comes highly recommended by those with a culinary pedigree. Gardeners love it too - it's impossibly long-flowering and since it is a perennial herb, it will crop year after year.

It's choc full of nectar, so always a flutter with bees and butterflies, and can be planted in any type of garden; city gardens, wildlife gardens, and even works marvellously as an indoor herb garden idea. Here is your guide on how to grow marjoram, one of the best plants for pollinators and culinarians, for that matter.

How to grow marjoram: an expert guide

There are three types of marjoram: sweet marjoram, pot marjoram, and wild marjoram. All are very straightforward to grow, but the most common and best marjoram variety for culinary creations is sweet marjoram.

If you're wondering how to grow marjoram in your garden, my recommendation is to buy it as a plant and grow it directly in the ground, whilst it can be sown from seed (more on that below) generally speaking, it is wonderfully simple to grow an inexpensive young plant directly in the garden.

In zones 9 and above, marjoram is a perennial and can be left in the ground. In chillier areas, marjoram is an annual and should be potted up at the end of the season and overwintered in a sunny window indoors.

You can put your marjoram plant back out in the garden in spring, but make sure the last frost as passed before you do.

How to grow marjoram from seed

'You can grow marjoram from seed, but the seeds are tiny and can take a while to germinate,' explains says gardening and preserving coach Robin Phelps.

'For new gardeners, I usually recommend buying a small plant from the nursery to get a head start. It’s less of a hassle, and you can start harvesting sooner. But if you’re patient, growing from seed is doable indoors or outdoors.'

If you would prefer to grow marjoram from seed, you can buy seeds, like these marjoram seeds from Amazon, and sow the seeds around eight weeks before the last frost, in early spring. Broadcast your seeds into the soil of your chosen pot, or use a seed tray, like this germination tray available at Amazon, which would offer the best results. Water thoroughly and place them in a sunny spot, and watch them sprout in a week or two.

Before planting your new young plants in the garden, plants need to be accustomed to outdoor conditions first, so move them to a sheltered place outside for a week before planting in the ground.

How to grow marjoram from cuttings and division

Growing marjoram from cuttings of an existing marjoram plant is refreshingly straightforward and faff free.

'Marjoram is very easy to propagate,' explains Robin. 'You can take softwood cuttings in spring or summer. Just snip a 3–4-inch stem, remove the lower leaves, and root it in water or a moist potting mix. I’ve also had success with simple division if the plant is large enough.'

How to grow marjoram indoors

Marjoram likes heat and light, and lots of it, as befits its origins in the sunny Mediterranean. As such, it is well adapted for indoor container gardening, particularly loving sunny windowsills and window boxes with southern exposure.

If your windowsills are a little too gloomy for marjoram to thrive, perhaps your kitchen windowsill is north-facing, then marjoram will not be forgiving. In which case, it is worth getting an LED light, like this grow light available at Amazon.

Because marjoram is a sun worshiper, and is used to dryer conditions, you want to be sure you get a potting mix with good drainage (they hate to be soggy!) A great recipe would be equal parts soil and perlite for increased drainage, like this perlite available at Amazon.

'Marjoram does well indoors in a sunny window, just don’t overwater,' warns Robin. 'Let the top inch of soil dry out before watering again. Planting Marjoram in a clay pot can help prevent soggy roots.'

How to grow marjoram in the garden

Select a sunny location with good drainage and dig a hole that is big enough for the entire root ball. Marjoram tends to trail, so give your plant plenty of space to spread out.

Once you have planted your marjoram, thoroughly water and apply a light mulch layer on top of the soil. You will not need to thoroughly water your marjoram again, watering lightly and infrequently is best.

' Marjoram is a beautiful plant to have in the garden: soft green foliage, small white or purple flowers, and it attracts pollinators. I love that it’s low-maintenance but delivers so much flavor and charm.' says Robin.

'My top tip is to give marjoram plenty of sun, which brings out its best flavor. Also, good drainage is critical. If your soil is heavy clay, grow it in a raised bed or pot. And don’t be afraid to harvest often. Like many herbs, marjoram thrives with regular cutting; it keeps the plant productive and encourages lots of tender new growth.'

How to harvest marjoram

Once your plants are around six inches tall, begin pinching the tips off to encourage dense, bushy growth. Once it starts its bushy growth, you should be able to harvest as and when you want.

'I like to harvest marjoram by snipping the top few inches of growth, just above a pair of leaves. This encourages the plant to branch out and become bushier. It’s a good idea to prune regularly. Not only does it keep the plant tidy, but it also prevents it from getting woody. If it starts to flower, pinch the buds to keep the leaves tender and flavorful.' explains Robin.

In the height of summer, your plant will produce delicate and oh-so pretty flower buds. It is best to harvest as much growth as possible when you see buds forming because the flavor is at its best at this point. When you harvest large amounts, you don't take any more than two-thirds of the plant off.

You may find that in the height of summer, you are harvesting an awful lot of marjoram. Remember, you can dry your herbs to preserve them for future use, or freeze them for use in the winter when your marjoram is a little lacklustre.

It is worth bearing in mind that marjoram is toxic to pets, so it's best kept out of reach of your furry friends.

FAQs

What is the difference between marjoram and oregano?

Marjoram and oregano are, in many ways, very similar herbs. However, although they are closely related, they are not the same species.

Oregano (Origanum vulgare) is a hardy perennial herb and can live outside all year long. Marjoram will not withstand any frost and, therefore, is often grown as an annual. It is best cut down to one inch from the ground, potted up, and brought indoors in winter.

Marjoram is a milder and sweeter alternative to spicier oregano. You can think of marjoram as the slightly sweeter cousin of oregano. Although the differences are subtle, their flowers are very different, and their aroma is decidedly unalike.

Does marjoram have issues with pests and diseases?

Happily, marjoram tends to have very few issues with any diseases or pests.

You may find your marjoram plant attracts some aphids, but these can be easily removed by hand. If this doesn't seem to be improving things, introduce or attract natural predators into your herb garden, such as ladybugs. There are several places you can buy ladybugs, or simply locate them in your yard and rehome them next to your marjoram.

The issue of root rot arises fairly often with marjoram, mostly caused by overwatering and poor drainage. Marjoram despises being moist for prolonged periods, so this is usually where gardeners run into trouble. You can inspect the marjoram's roots, and if you can see root rot, remove these affected roots with clean scissors. Repot, or replace in a spot with better-draining soil, and it should bounce back.

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It's worth giving marjoram a go in your garden; it's also one of the best herbs for a window box, as it will be a haven for pollinators and is naturally compact, so it will have no complaints living in a small space.

The advantages of growing lime trees in pots include being able to move them to a perfect spot for summer, then bring them indoors when the temperatures drop. It is possible to enjoy the blossoms and get a great harvest of limes on a sunny deck, patio, or balcony.

Lime trees can be an easy fruit tree to grow in pots, provided you get certain factors correct that keep them happy and healthy. I looked after a large citrus collection as a professional gardener, and spoke to a fruit tree expert to showcase how to grow a lime tree in a pot, including the most important factors to get right.

Where to grow a lime tree in a pot

Containers open up possibilities for growing and caring for citrus trees in cooler climates, which is especially important for lime trees, as they are sensitive to temperature.

'Lime trees are the most frost-sensitive of all citrus, and are cold hardy to about 32°F when planted in the ground,' explains Bethany Lakatos, plant expert at Fast Growing Trees.

However, when in containers, they are even less cold-hardy than when growing in the ground. 'If container-grown, they’ll need to be brought indoors when temperatures dip below 50°F,' adds Bethany.

An advantage to growing fruit trees in pots is that you can place the pots in the sunniest spot in the yard, and away from cold winds. On the whole, lime trees need at least six hours of sunlight. However, there are locations where more or less full sun may be recommended.

'Limes will appreciate more sun in mild climates like the West Coast,' says Bethany Lakatos. 'And in very hot, arid climates, like Texas and the Southwest, they will appreciate some protection from the scorching afternoon sun.'

The particular light requirements of lime trees also need to be considered when you overwinter the plants indoors to shield them from cold winter temperatures.

'Indoors in winter, they need at least 5 hours of sunlight, though a grow light is usually necessary to keep them from defoliating and looking their best,' adds the fruit tree expert. 'Grow lights can be on from 14-16 hours, with at least 8 hours off.'

How to grow a lime tree in a pot: 4 factors for success

If you want to grow a lime tree in a pot, you must accept that plants want regular TLC. However, the reward outweighs the effort. Here are four key areas you need to get right to get a lime tree to fruit and remain happy and healthy in a container.

Variety

The best choice if you want to grow a lime tree in a pot is a dwarf or compact variety. These types offer all the beauty and fragrance of a lime tree without reaching 15 feet or more like regular varieties.

Dwarf lime trees grow to 3-6 feet, depending on the variety, and are suitable for container gardens. They may need repotting as they develop, but are capable of flowering and fruiting profusely on more compact trees.

The most popular dwarf varieties of lime trees include the key lime (aka the Mexican lime), the kaffir lime, and the Persian lime (aka the Tahiti Lime).

Pot and Soil

Pick a pot that is a little bit larger than the lime tree’s rootball and repot the tree into a bigger container over time. That is always a better approach than putting it straight into a too-big pot, which can lead to trees sitting in soggy soil for extended periods.

The pot can be of any material, but terracotta pots are advisable. They do dry out faster than plastic containers, but this can be beneficial when you grow a lime tree in a pot.

'Using porous terracotta containers and citrus or cactus soil helps with good drainage and aids in preventing overwatering, which is important because limes are sensitive to root rot,' advises Bethany Lakatos.

An absolute must is that any container has drainage holes in the bottom, so that excess water can escape to prevent the lime tree from sitting in sodden soil for too long. An alternative to citrus or cactus soil is to fill pots with a soilless, well-draining potting mix.

You can often find citrus soil in nurseries, garden centers, or online, such as this special blend for citrus trees at Amazon.

Watering

Overwatering plants poses a large risk to lime trees in containers; it is important to allow the soil to dry out before watering. Only water citrus trees when the top two inches of soil have dried out, and water deeply when you do, until you see the water flowing out of the drainage holes.

And tailor your watering schedule season-to-season. 'Watering will vary based on temperature and climate, but in general, limes will need more water during the growing season when temperatures are warmer and they are actively growing and ripening fruit,' says Bethany.

It means you may water several times a week during the summer, but it can be reduced to once a week or less during the cooler season. Check the soil moisture under the surface when watering plants in containers, either using your fingers or a soil moisture meter (like this soil moisture meter at Amazon) to assess when to water.

Feeding

Fertilizing lime trees in pots is hugely beneficial, but you need to pick the right products and feed at the correct time to keep trees healthy and fruiting.

Bethany recommends: 'Fertilize during the growing season, from spring to fall, with a citrus-specific fertilizer that includes iron, zinc, and manganese, the micronutrients most likely to be deficient in citrus plants.'

You can choose between granular or liquid feeds to fertilize citrus trees. Granular products are best applied every 30-60 days, while liquid ones require more frequent applications, approximately every two weeks.

Always apply fertilizers at the recommended rates to avoid over-fertilizing plants, and avoid feeding any lime trees that are showing signs of water or heat stress.

This Expert Gardener Citrus Plant Food Fertilizer at Walmart has an NPK ratio of 6-4-6 is an ideal granular fertilizer to use throughout the growing season.

FAQs

Why is my potted lime tree dropping leaves?

If you see citrus leaves curling or dropping, it can be down to many different factors. Defoliation of lime trees in pots is most often caused by watering issues, including both over- and under-watering, or a lack of nutrients.

Wherever you grow lime trees, they do benefit from pruning. You do not have to prune a lime tree every year, more often than not they need some attention every 2-3 years to remove dead, broken, crossing, or weak branches. This helps to shape the tree and improve air circulation and sunlight penetration, to keep it healthy.

The best time to prune citrus trees is in late winter or early spring, while the tree is dormant and just before it actively starts growing for the new season.

With over 150 species and countless cultivars, you are sure to find a species to suit your tastes and needs. And, while they look good as statement shrubs in isolation, I actually think viburnums do best when surrounded by companion plants that add contrast in colour and texture.

So, maybe you already have an established shrub or you might be planning to plant one this year, but choosing one, two or more of the best viburnum companion plants will really help tie your space together. From red-twig stems to vibrant flowering shrubs, these are five plants I’d consider pairing with viburnums in my yard.

5 of the best viburnum companion plants

If you already know how to grow viburnum, then you won't find it that complicated to grow other shrubs and perennials alongside them.

When choosing viburnum companion plants, the trick is to select species that work for the climate in your region and US hardiness zone.

And, if you have a species that thrives in shade, be sure to grow shade-loving companion plants underneath. Likewise for sunny yards.

Here are five of the best perennials and shrubs to grow alongside your viburnums this year.

1. Weigela

If you want a strong colour contrast to offset viburnum’s deep green leaves, weigela is a solid pick.

'Weigela are some of the best flowering shrubs,' says Tamara Hogan, plant expert and lead horticulturist at Fast Growing Trees.

'If you want a unique option, I recommend this 'Spilled Wine' variety, with live plants available from Fast Growing Trees,' says Tamara.

'With burgundy foliage and fuchsia flowers in spring and summer, this variety provides an excellent contrast to the green viburnums.'

In terms of how to grow weigela, most are hardy down to zone 4, and do best in full sun to part shade, depending on where you live.

'If you reside in a warm location, I would recommend giving them some protection in the afternoon since dark foliage can sometimes go crispy,' Tamara adds. 'They are also tolerant of a range of soils.'

2. Red Twig Dogwood

'Red twig dogwood, or Cornus sericea, is one of our best native dogwoods found growing in wooded areas across North America,' Tamara continues.

Live red twig dogwood plants can be ordered now via Fast Growing Trees.

'They are hardy from zone 2 to zone 8, with a preference for full sun to part shade. This is also a great plant for wetter locations to help take up some extra water.

'This plant is a great late-season combination with the viburnum family,' Tamara adds.

'Viburnums tend to have some pretty great fall color, with the American varieties often being used as substitutes for burning bushes.

'And, I think to go from that bright red foliage to the bright red stems of the dogwood is just a wonderful show of color.'

As Tamara says, this is a plant with long-term value. Adding structure, wildlife appeal and seasonal color.

Just be sure to prune red twig dogwood at the right time, usually around late winter, to allow you to enjoy the red stems for the maximum amount of time.

3. Barberry

'Another option with burgundy foliage to contrast against your viburnum is Japanese barberry,' Tamara says.

'I love the 'Rose Glow' variety, with live plants available from Fast Growing Trees, which is a variegated option with white and pink leaves.

'Hardy down to zone 4, these are some of the best evergreen shrubs that thrive in sunny yards,' Tamara says.

'They also keep their leaves throughout the year, adding interest when the viburnum has defoliated.

'However, barberries can have a state restriction on them, as these fast-growing shrubs can be invasive plants in certain regions.

'So, it is always best to seek guidance from your local government office before adding them to your plot.'

4. Thuja

'When growing deciduous viburnums, I like to pair them with evergreens, in either different colors or different textures to elevate my borders,' Tamara says.

'One of my go-to plants is the 'Fire Chief' thuja, or arborvitae, which is a multi-colored conifer that has bright orange tips throughout the growing season.'

Live 'Fire Chief' plants are available to order from Fast Growing Trees.

In general, thuja is one of the easiest evergreen trees and shrubs to grow in borders, and is hardy down to zone 5, tolerating cold winters without any worry.

In fact, it is often considered one of the best evergreen shrubs that thrives on neglect, as it is so low-maintenance.

'They do great in full sun,' Tamara says, 'and can handle a variety of soil conditions.'

Just be sure to provide a deep watering in the first year, to help your plant settle into your yard.

5. Juniper

Another good option if you are looking for viburnum companion plants is creeping juniper, or Juniperus horizontalis.

Live juniper plants can be ordered online via Fast Growing Trees.

This native plant is one of the easiest ground cover plants that is found growing across North America.

It is low-growing, often reaching no more than two feet tall, so it is a good option if you want to create a green carpet effect around your larger viburnum shrubs.

Creeping juniper can grow down to zone 4, and is a versatile plant, typically thriving in most locations, growing well in full sun and poor soils.

FAQs

What shade-tolerant perennial works well alongside viburnums?

If your viburnum grows in a dark corner of the yard, it is a good idea to use full-shade perennials. Try growing bunchberry dogwood or foamflowers, both of which are native to North America and thrive in darker situations. Dozens of hosta varieties would also help to illuminate shady spots, such as this 'Blue Angel' hosta, available from Fast Growing Trees.

Whatever viburnum companion plants you opt to grow, it is best to add them to your yard during spring or fall, when the temperature is mild and the soil is slightly damp.

After planting, be sure to water thoroughly and give your borders a good mulching to help retain moisture and prevent weed growth for the year ahead.

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Learning how to grow sweet peas couldn't be more straightforward. They're strong, long-flowering and highly productive plants, and for intense scent and beauty, you cannot beat them. The main thing to bear in mind is that they are cut-and-come-again flowers, and to prolong your sweet pea crops, they need to be picked regularly.

Here, we explain how picking at regular intervals will keep your plants flowering right through summer and into fall.

Is it essential to deadhead sweet peas?

The short answer to this question is, if you want a proliferation of pretty sweet pea flowers, yes, you must pick or 'deadhead' your sweet peas.

Usually, with deadheading, you are keeping your eyes out for spent flowers (flowers which are coming to the end of their life). However, when it comes to sweet peas, it's best not to let the flowers come to the end of their life; you want to pick them off beforehand.

As we hurtle into summer and temperatures spike, sweet peas concentrate their energy into producing seeds and stop concerning themselves with producing any flowers. Sweet peas are flowering annuals, and as such, once seeds develop, they tell the plant that its work is done, and the plant starts to die back.

We want to delay that process, so as to have more flowers all summer long, thus maximise the flowers and minimise the seeds.

Regular picking will encourage more flowers and prevent plants from setting seed. You'll also have a steady supply of cut flowers for the house, which is a total joy to the senses.

You should also remove any spent flowers and seed pods that have started to form at the same time.

When to pick and deadhead sweet peas

The best course of action is to harvest flowers as often as you can all summer long to keep the plants producing more pretty flowers.

Once a week should be sufficient, but you may find that at their peak, you’ll need to pick and deadhead every couple of days. Whatever happens, keep a close eye on them to prevent them from producing seeds.

A good rule of thumb? Whenever you are in the garden, secateurs in hand, and you see some sweet pea flowers, don't be afraid to cut them; they won't suffer from it, they will only go on to produce more and more flowers. As the flowers open, keep cutting, and never leave seeds to develop on the plants.

How to deadhead sweet peas

Happily, the way to cut back sweet peas is the same for all sweet pea varieties.

Cut back as far along the stem as possible, and don't leave any stubs. Using garden snips for this is better than using your fingers, so you leave a clean cut, which will prevent damage to the plant.

You can leave any new and emerging flower buds, so your plant won't be bare of flowers for long. However, if you find any pods of seeds, remove them immediately. You can always remove the seeds from the pods and dry them indoors, so you can use them to propagate next year's sweet peas.

Though it is best to prevent your sweet peas from going to seed as much as possible by picking before seed production sets in.

After picking your sweet peas, be sure to water the plants thoroughly, and don't let them dry out.

If you are finding that your sweet peas are too leggy and getting very lofty without producing many or any flowers, cut up to half the leaves off the plant, and remove as many tendrils as you like.

To prevent this in the future, pinch out emerging tips to encourage side growth when the plants are fairly young, about 10cm tall. Find the central growing tip and pinch it between your finger and thumb. This will encourage the plant to grow out rather than up.

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Remember that sweet peas want to grow up, so for happy and healthy plants, it is worth planting them against a trellis or making a sweet pea teepee, so they can climb and ramble in all their glory.

Well, planting extra flowers isn't the only way to add color to your backyard ideas. There are so many ways to go about bringing vibrancy to a garden, courtyard or balcony that you may not even at first consider, and can make an impactful difference.

Here garden experts share their top four ways to add color to your yard without planting any flowers, and how each works to bring brightness to a space. These ideas are perfect for the summer to wake your yard or terrace up in time for guests or relaxing outdoors with a beautiful backdrop.

1. Add plants with colored foliage

There are many plants out there with foliage so gorgeous it could rival any flower. You'd be surprised by the amount of stunning colors leaves can be, from deep purples to tinted blues and yellows.

Just think of how each of these would stand out in your yard, whether you're looking to add bright hues to create a foliage border or something more subtle and sporadic. Plus, they can all be grown vertically in taller planters or in pots that hook over a balcony.

Laura Janney, CEO of The Inspired Garden Masterclass, says, 'There are many plants out there with colorful foliage to bring beauty to a yard, but these are my top three picks.'

1. 'Coral bells (Heuchera sanguinea) provide wonderful shades of green, red, purple (and even some hues of silver) and are a top choice for someone looking to avoid flowers because they provide this attractive foliage all season.'
2. 'Coleus (Solenostemon scutellarioides) is another plant that, compared to flowers, blooms full season from spring to fall and grows quickly, showing off vibrant leaf colors of red, purple, pink, orange, green and yellow.' Learn how to grow coleus here.
3. 'Lastly, I would also recommend Persian shield plants (Strobilanthes dyerianus) for these same reasons mentioned above. They boast stunning metallic or iridescent colors including purple and silver year-round, and require minimal work from gardeners.'

2. Add plants with variegated foliage in pots

Opting for plants or trees in containers with variegated foliage is another great way to add color and spruce up your backyard without planting any flowers.

These are leafy plants with foliage of multiple different hues, such as 'Goshiki' (Osmanthus heterophyllus), a selection of 'Solomon Seal', and ‘Variegatum’ (Polygonatum odoratum - types of spider plant).

Andrew Bunting, vice president of horticulture at the Pennsylvania Horticultural Society, says, 'There are many interesting plants with variegated foliage, often in combinations of green and yellow or green and white. ‘Variegatum’ [spider plant] is a great woodland plant with arching stems, and white and green variegated leaves. Osmanthus heterophyllus ‘Goshiki’ is another option with evergreen holly-like leaves that have an attractive suffusion of yellow, white and green.'

3. Use colored planters

A simple but effective way to inject more color into your yard without planting any flowers is to switch in some colorful container gardening ideas.

These don't have to be neon yellow to be effective. The best plant pots can be muted pastels, quiet pops of navy and purple, or any colors that won't blend in too much with the background of the natural world will be noticeable in the space.

Jessica Mercer PhD, a plant expert at Plant Addicts, says, 'A great way to add color without petals is with hardscape accents like showy containers. A trio of durable planters sat together can become a commanding focal point, whether you're planting up matching greenery in each container or something contrasting.'

The corky metal pot planter from Wayfair and the maisonette pot planter, also from Wayfair both come in a large range of colors to tailor to any yard.

4. Add color through patio furniture and accessories

Focusing your attention on the rest of your yard's furniture and patio ideas is another easy way to implement color without any additional flowers. It might be as simple as a lick of paint here and there, or a seasonal pillow can do a lot when designing a patio.

'A weather-resistant bench sprayed in a bold teal or a set of powder-coated steel trellises in citrus orange supply saturated hues across the yard,' says Jessica.

'Fabric can be a mobile splash of color too. Outdoor pillows and umbrellas can echo the tones in your foliage, can be swapped out easily, and fold away for winter.'

If your yard is still lacking the colour you were hoping for, dotting a few patio plants or thoughtful pieces of garden art or garden decor around the yard might do just the trick. For instance, the glitzhome metal hanging birdhouse from Amazon is functional while adding a burst of red to your yard without taking up floor space.

If you're looking to redesign the majority of your yard while adding color, we recommend considering the top backyard improvements that add value to your home while embarking on the job. This way, your yard's new design will also benefit you financially in the future.

Now, after several years working as a professional gardener, I have planted all sorts of grasses, but I remain a little in awe of the shade-tolerant Japanese forest grass, or Hakonechloa macra. It has slightly broader blades than most fine grasses (roughly half an inch), and once it’s established, it forms these soft, elegant mounds, as can be seen in the image above. They look cinematic; like something from an animation.

While easy to grow, Japanese forest grass is slow to get going and won’t fill borders instantly. You’re probably looking at two years before it really settles in. But, believe me, the investment is worth it. So, if you are considering landscaping with ornamental grasses this year, Japanese forest grass comes with a glowing recommendation. Here’s everything I have learned about how to grow Japanese forest grass.

How to grow Japanese forest grass

I think that Japanese forest grass is one of the best perennials for shady borders. And, who wouldn't want to fill dark spots in the yard with dense ground cover plants? Fortunately for us, learning how to grow Japanese forest grass is relatively simple, so long as you follow a handful of rules as set out here.

Growing habits of Japanese forest grass

Japanese forest grasses can be grown down to US hardiness zone 4, making them some of the best plants for a Japanese garden in cooler, northern regions.

Live Japanese forest grasses are available to order via Amazon.

While this species does produce fine, delicate flowers that are typical of grasses, it is usually grown for its lush lime-green foliage, which not only delights in spring and summer, but also displays remarkable seasonal color changes in fall, too.

I would usually advise planting this grass in spring or fall, but it can be added to borders at any time of year. Just avoid planting during a heatwave or deep freeze.

In terms of placement, Japanese forest grass does best either as full-shade perennials or part-shade perennials, and I would not advise planting in full sun, unless you live in zone 4.

These are also good ground cover plants for wet soil, and can handle damp borders that retain moisture, so long as they are not waterlogged for prolonged weeks and months.

And, unlike many non-native grasses, Japanese forest grass is very slow-growing and is not considered an invasive plant. The clumps will stay fairly compact and manageable for many years.

Care guide for Japanese forest grass

Soil: Japanese forest grasses are woodland plants, so they enjoy moist, fertile soil, like you would expect to find in a wooded area or forest. Mulching is a good idea to improve the quality and structure of your soil. Try using something like this organic mulch from Walmart.

Light: They thrive in part-shade, preferring a few hours of morning sun and protection from harsh rays in the afternoon. However, in southern regions, like zone 8, you can get away with planting in deep shade. Do note, however, that the coloration of the blades will change depending on the light. So, in full shade, the blades will be greener, whereas in part shade, they will take on a yellow-gold tint. If you are keen on yellow varieties, grow 'All Gold', with live plants available from Amazon.

Watering: Japanese forest grasses do best in evenly moist soil. If there is a prolonged heatwave, or you are suffering from drought in July or August, I would recommend deep watering every few days, to help them on their way.

Fertilizing: In my experience, it is not really necessary to fertilize Japanese forest grasses. If you annually mulch your borders, this should be sufficient to provide them with everything they need. If, however, you are growing in poor soil, you can use a balanced multi-purpose fertilizer in spring to give your grasses a boost.

Pruning: No pruning is necessary during the growing season. I would suggest leaving the blades to bronze and yellow through the winter months, which will help to provide interest during November and December. You can then cut your grass down to the base right at the point before your plants jump into life in spring, usually best done in February or March. After pruning, you can then mulch around the base of the plant, which is far easier when the foliage is out of the way.

Toxicity: Japanese forest grass is not reported as having any toxic effects on humans or pets.

FAQs

Can I grow Japanese forest grass in pots?

Yes, you can grow Japanese forest grass in pots. Be sure to place the container in a part-sun-part-shade location, and ensure that you water regularly. While they do not like having boggy soil, they require consistent water, which can be tricky when growing in pots. Try planting alongside other shade-loving perennials, like hostas and ferns.

Consider also adding one or two of the best native grasses to your plot, alongside your clumps of Japanese forest grass.

From blue grama to deer grass, there are many attractive and tough species native to North America. Our guide has all the information to inspire your next planting project.

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With its myriad microclimates, the list of edimentals that grow on the West Coast runs from tropical to temperate and include herbs, flowers, fruits and vegetables. If you have limited space, each will blend right in with whatever in-ground or patio garden you are currently tending. And no one will even be able to tell you’re plucking leaves or fruits from your plantings to enhance your meals.

So what are the edimentals you can expect to do well along the West Coast? We’ve spoken to regional experts to find out their suggestions for plants that offer both beauty and sustenance. Plant several of these in your yard or along your patio and you will no long have the edimentals versus bedding plants conundrum.

Edimentals explained

Denise Mullins, Director of Product Innovation for commercial plant grower Smith Gardens in Bellingham, Washington, started a production line at her company called Edimentals: The Perfect Match.

‘Our edimentals line wasn’t a new concept, it was just something edibly ornamental, which is my take on it,’ Mullins said. 'I usually mix edible flowers and vegetables and herbs together for a nice combination.’ Mullins doesn’t do this just for work, either. ‘I landscaped my entire front yard with edibles,’ she said. ‘Everything in my yard is edible.’

Edimentals are versatile and can be found in any plant category – annuals, perennials, herbs, trees and shrubs. In fact, they’ve become so in demand that plant breeders are now selecting edible plants not just for their taste and use but for the beauty they bring to gardens and patios.

Growing Conditions for West Coast Edimentals

The thing that sets the West Coast apart from the East is its network of microclimates. In fact, the climates differ enough within such small areas that Sunset magazine developed its own set of zone standards – Sunset Zones – for states from Washington to Texas and including some of the Rocky Mountain states.

For this listing we’ll concentrate on the edimentals that do well along the West Coast from Washington to southern California.

‘California has a wide climate spread, anywhere from USDA zone 4 all the way up to zone 11,’ says Janet Sluis, horticulturist and director of the Sunset Western Garden Collection.

‘Most gardens here in California are in USDA zones 9-10 and receive months of no rainfall. Consequently, we are very low water/drought focused and look to other Mediterranean climates for appropriate plant material.’

‘I can't really speak for California,’ Mullins says, ‘but for Washington and Oregon, we're cooler here. I can use a lot of cool-weather crops.’

Annual Edimentals

With cooler weather, Mullins has more of an opportunity to grow annuals for ornamental use. Some that she uses include:

Purple cabbage (Brassica oleracea var. capitata f, rubra): Denise loves the color and shape in the garden. ‘I plant it next to golden oregano (Origanum vulgare 'Aureum') or sage.

Cilantro (Coriandrum sativum) and Parsley (Petroselinum crispum): The frilly leaves and reliably green textures fill spaces within a garden and make a nice edging.

Edible flowers such as violas (Viola sp.), begonia (Begonia sp.) and dianthus (Dianthus sp.): Beautiful in the garden and on the plate.

Perennial Edimentals

For Berkeley, California-based Sluis, perennial herbs are a mainstay in the edimental landscape. ‘Rosemary comes in all shapes and sizes, and is a landscape staple here,’ she says. ‘I particularly like ‘Chef's Choice’, as it is one of the smallest culinary varieties, and works well in both containers and in ground.’

Find snips for harvesting your herbs at Target.

Other perennial herbs that Sluis recommends include:

Sage (Salvia officinalis, zones 4-10)

Thyme (Thymus vulgaris, zones 4-9)

Oregano (Origanum vulgare, zones 5-10)

Lavender (Lavandula sp., zones 5-9): Sluis says ‘Meerlo’ can take the heat and low-water conditions better than other types of lavender and has beautiful, variegated foliage.

You can find ‘Meerlo’ lavender online at Walmart.

In addition to the herbs Sluis mentions, Mullins also uses fennel (Foeniculum vulgare, zones 4-9). ‘The coloring of the bronze fennel also has a pink to it, and the color is just so right in the landscape.’

She’s also a fan of using artichokes (Cynara cardunculus, Zones 7-11) as a sculptural element. ‘It's a perennial for me, and they get huge and beautiful.’

Edible Shrubs for the West

Mullins uses swamp rose mallow (Hibiscus moscheutos, zones 5-9) as an edible flowering shrub, with its petals being used in teas.

And speaking of the mallows, okra (Abelmoschus esculentus, zones 5-11) makes for an interesting edimental in the landscape, too. She has also used grape vines as structural elements in the edimental garden.

‘There are several large shrubs and trees that offer both ornamental and edible elements to a lower-water garden,’ Sluis says. She recommends figs (Ficus carica, zones 7-10) such as the variety ‘Little Miss Figgy’ that grow to be just 3-5 ft. tall. Other less-thirsty choices for edimental shrubs and trees that Sluis suggests are:

Pomegranate (Punica granatum, zones 7-10)

Pineapple Guava (Feijoa sellowiana, zones 8-11)

Bay Laurel (Laurus nobilis, zones 8-11). Sluis recommends the compact variety ‘Baby Bay’.

Olive (Olea europaea, zones 8-11)

Live ‘Little Miss Figgy’ fig trees are available at Fast Growing Trees.

With so many flowers, herbs, shrubs and traditional vegetables to choose from, it seems like everyone could do what Mullins does and have an entirely edible and beautiful home landscape.

If that seems intimidating, start small, perhaps on your patio. To learn how to get started, read our guide on how to create a balcony herb garden, which can easily translate to any small outdoor space.

I won't lie, learning how to correctly fertilize indoor plants has taken me a while to master. It's incredibly easy to unintentionally over or under-fertilize plants, a common indoor plant mistake that can hinder houseplant health and, in a worst case scenario, even kill them off.

But, don't worry. If you're new to houseplant care, fertilizing isn't as complicated as it may initially seem. You just need to understand a few basics, which I've compiled right here to help you out.

How to fertilize houseplants

If you're not aware of what fertilizing does for plants, it essentially gives plants a boost of nutrients where they have otherwise depleted from soil over time. Establishing a fertilizing routine can therefore really aid robust growth.

I find the key to knowing how to fertilize houseplants comes down to knowing when to fertilize houseplants. Getting the timing wrong could be detrimental to the health of your houseplants, so it's best to avoid this fertilizing mistake:

When I fertilize my houseplants

As a general rule, you should only fertilize houseplants during spring and summer. This is when the majority of indoor plants are actively putting on new growth and when they need the boost of essential plant nutrients most.

In fact, it's a winter houseplant care mistake to fertilize houseplants during the coldest time of year. This is because they won't soak it up as easily in summer (likewise with water) and it could actually burn roots or oversaturate the soil, leading to houseplant root rot.

On a more granular level, it's best practice to understand the fertilizing needs specific to the houseplants you have.

For example, I fertilize my monstera much more frequently (every couple of weeks) than my spider plant, which is a houseplant you don't need to fertilize often.

There aren't necessarily tell-tale signs as to whether your houseplant is a heavy feeder, so it's wise to do some research on a case-by-case scenario.

Another tip: specific houseplant fertilizers (like this monstera fertilizer from Amazon or this peace lily fertilizer from Amazon) provide insight about frequency in the manufacturer instructions.

If you're unsure, however, a general rule of thumb I recommend is fertilizing houseplants no more than every two or three weeks during spring and summer.

How I use different types of houseplant fertilizer

Another factor in understanding how to fertilize houseplants is the many types of houseplant fertilizers available.

I initially found it quite overwhelming to navigate all the options in the market, trying to find the best houseplant fertilizer. That was until I realized that each houseplant has differing needs and differing fertilizer preferences.

Not only this, but sometimes different types of fertilizer are best for helping a houseplant recover from a specific problem:

• Liquid fertilizer: This is the most common type of houseplant fertilizer on the market and perhaps the most convenient to use. You can get balanced houseplant fertilizers (from Amazon) for general use, or ones with varying plant fertilizer numbers to support more leafy or floral growth (like this indoor flower plant fertilizer from Amazon). You use a liquid fertilizer by diluting with watering and then watering houseplants as usual.
• Slow release fertilizer: This is a granular fertilizer (like this slow release houseplant fertilizer from Amazon) applied to the base of houseplants. Each time houseplants are watered, more of the fertilizer is released, gradually feeding houseplants over a longer period of time. This is a great choice to provide consistent feeding for healthy houseplants, but I've also used it to help a houseplant recover when it's looked a little weak and worse for wear after the harsher conditions of winter.
• Organic fertilizer: I find using organic fertilizer, such as coffee ground fertilizer for houseplants, is a great way to boost nutrients without chemicals. This is especially helpful when your houseplant has experienced some damage, such as yellowing foliage, and needs a source of nitrogen, for example. Likewise, banana peels are good for plants that need a boost of potassium. In cases of organic fertilizer, it's best to apply it directly to houseplant soil, around the base of the plant so roots can soak up nutrients from it as the organic matter breaks down. Of course, this is a much slower process than the instant feed of liquid fertilizer.
• Foliar fertilizer: There are also foliar houseplant fertilizers (from Amazon) which are in a mist-form, applied directly to foliage. Tiny pores in houseplant leaves absorb the fertilizer, often at a much faster rate than other fertilizers. The one downside of this, however, is sensitive foliage may become susceptible to leaf scorch when wet from foliar fertilizers and then exposed to direct sun. Nevertheless, it's a quick fix for plants struggling from nutrient deficiencies, just take care not to oversaturate the foliage.

FAQs

Can you revive houseplants from over-fertilization?

Yes, it is possible to revive houseplants from over-fertilization, but it depends on how bad the damage is. If your houseplants only have a few yellow leaves from too-frequent fertilizing, simply prune away the damaged leaves and provide optimal care, including keeping the plant hydrated and placing it in good light. You should also flush the soil to remove excess fertilizer and a build-up of salt. You may also choose to repot your houseplant with fresh potting soil. Avoid fertilizing again until the plant has recovered.

Once you've mastered the skill of feeding your houseplants, you might want to experiment with some DIY mixtures. Follow my guide to making your own orchid fertilizer, for example – a recipe that helps my orchids bloom for longer.

Don't forget these essentials for your houseplant care kit

Summer provides ideal conditions for many pests that destroy plants to thrive, and unfortunately ornamental and edible plants alike fall victim to their attack. From tiny sap-sucking insects to more obvious leaf munchers, there are a few summer garden pests gardeners battle with every year.

But, with a few tips and tricks up your sleeve, you can easily tackle pest problems head on and keep your summer garden looking its best by getting rid of pests as soon as you see them. Here, pest control experts share five pests to look out for at this time of year, alongside tips on what to do when you spot them.

5 summer garden pests to watch out for

Just like spring garden pests and winter garden pests, destructive insects are sometimes difficult to spot. By examining the foliage of your plants regularly, particularly the underside of leaves where pests often hide, you can jump on pest problems early and keep your plants safe and healthy. Here are top tips from pest control experts:

1. Aphids

Every gardener will inevitably have to get rid of aphids at some point or another. These common pests don't discriminate when it comes to the type of plants they target, so it's essential to quickly control aphid populations if you spot any in your yard.

They're identifiable as soft body, green, black, red, or yellow insects that tend to be found in clusters on the tips of plants. They're sap-sucking insects that can stunt plant growth and leave foliage wilting and yellowing.

'One of the tricks in controlling aphids is to control ants,' says Dr. Tracy Ellis, an entomologist at FarmSense.

This is because ants and aphids have a symbiotic relationship where ants 'farm' aphids for their honeydew, keeping them safe from predators in return.

'This sugary honeydew is a valuable resource for many ants who prevent the aphids from being attacked by their natural enemies such as ladybugs, syrphid flies or parasitic wasps,' Tracy explains.

'Getting rid of ants leaves the aphids vulnerable,' she adds.

You can also physically remove aphids, such as blasting them with water. Or, you can choose to use chemical options, such as insecticidal soap (from Amazon).

'Avoid spraying broad-spectrum insecticides, which can disrupt beneficial insect populations,' Tracy notes.

Another way to control aphids is by enlisting the help of natural predators that eat aphids. You can purchase ladybugs from Amazon for this purpose.

2. Red lily beetles

If you grow lilies in your yard, as well as fritillaries, keep an eye out for red lily beetle this summer. They're quite obvious to spot, bright red in color and measuring six to nine millimetres.

'They are bright red, sneaky, and ruthless, they skeletonize lilies in days,' says Nicole Carpenter pest control expert and President of Black Pest Prevention.

'Manually check daily and crush the adults and check leaf undersides for orange eggs. The larvae cover themselves in excrement as camouflage. Wipe them off and dispose,' she advises.

Other methods to control lily beetle populations include using neem oil (from Amazon). Neem oil on plants disrupt pest development and feeding. It can also help manage plant fungal problems.

'Neem oil works if applied early in the season. After larvae hatch, it's less effective,' Nicole describes.

It's also wise to plant lily plants away from fritillaries to reduce the spread of lily beetles.

3. Mealybugs

Mealybugs are also common summer garden pests to watch out for this season. Citrus trees, grape vines, and ornamental shrubs are particular favorites among mealybugs.

'Mealybugs, like aphids, secrete sugary honeydew that is a resource protected by ants. Controlling ants allows beneficial insects to make an impact,' Tracy says. 'In the interim, hand removal combined with insecticidal soap according to label directions will suppress populations,' she adds.

Insecticidal soap (available at Walmart) is an effective way to get rid of mealybugs. It essential dries them out and suffocates them.

'Mealybug populations can unexpectedly explode because they generally start in the nooks and crannies of growing tissue and take advantage of any new growth where inspection should focus,' Tracy says.

'Mealybugs may leave scars and obliterate certain vulnerable plants; locate and remove the most impacted plants from the garden and solarize them before adding to the homemade compost pile,' she advises.

Solarizing is a good way to combat mealybugs: 'Solarizing to destroy the insects is achieved by sealing the infested plant(s) in a plastic bag, leaving it in the sun usually for several days until the temperature exceeds 105°F,' Tracy describes.

4. Spider mites

Spider mites can be harder to spot, due to their tiny size. Cobwebs with little red dots are the giveaway.

These pests are a particular nuisance in kitchen gardens, feeding on beans, cucumbers, melons, and more. They can also take up residence indoors, as spider mites on houseplants is also a common problem.

'Spider mites thrive in hot, dry dusty conditions; therefore changing the conditions by high washing of the plant with insecticidal soap, increasing the humidity may help bring the population down to tolerable levels until the season is over,' Tracy suggests.

Blasting the affected plant with water can also help get rid of spider mites, especially if it's only a small infestation.

'If you have a chronic spider mite problem, such as on your tomatoes every year, you should consider purchasing and releasing mite predators throughout the season to promote beneficial predator establishment,' Tracy suggests.

Phytoseiulus persimilis is thought to be the most effective spider mite predator. You can actually purchase Phytoseiulus persimilis from Amazon to apply to your affected plants.

5. Tomato hornworms

If you grow tomatoes every year, then tomato hornworms are the summer garden pests you'll want to regularly check for among your crops.

'These are big, green caterpillars that strip tomato plants overnight,' describes Nicole. 'Pick them off and let braconid wasps finish your work (leave any with white cocoons),' she advises.

Handpicking is perhaps the most effective way to get rid of tomato hornworms, although it is time-consuming. Once picked off, place them in a bucket of soapy water to dehydrate and suffocate them.

You can also control tomato hornworm populations by applying Bacillus thuringiensis (from Amazon) to the foliage of your tomatoes. This contains beneficial bacteria that targets caterpillar insects.

You can also encourage natural predators and other beneficial insects to take care of this pest problem by opting for tomato companion plants like marigolds.

FAQs

How do you protect crops from deer and rabbits in summer?

To protect crops from deer and rabbits in summer, consider putting physical barriers in place. This includes chicken wire cloches (from Amazon) or even growing crops in a greenhouse. You can also place pest-repellent plants nearby, such as lavender and rosemary, which have strong scents these animals find unpleasant. Another method involves installing an ultrasonic animal repellent (from Amazon) to deter them from the area.

There are lots of things you can put in place to deter these pests as a precaution. For example, use spices that deter common garden pests or fragrant plants that repel many pests. The below pest control kit can also help you protect your garden plants this summer:

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This garden, owned and tended to by Marshall Watson and his partner Paul Sparks, is a particularly showstopping sanctum, brimming with garden ideas and overflowing with fodder for the imagination. Of course, the garden's magic owes much to its pulse-raising location. Still, perhaps more interesting is its strategic planting.

This coastal garden has a fairly understated planting scheme that presents a counterpoise to the ubiquity of prettified, floral, feminine planting often seen across the Hamptons. Here, we look at some of the glorious garden rooms that make up the garden as a whole, and delve into the planting and landscape design that formed the aesthetic success of the garden.

Lifestyle writer and photographer Blue Carreon’s new book, ‘The Gardens of the Hamptons, available from Amazon’, features a plethora of some of the most extraordinary gardens dotted around this iconic area, including this coastal paradise.

The garden unfolds as a choreographed sequence, yet feels almost entirely accidental, uncurated, and despite its picture-perfect style, it feels entirely relaxed and unpretentious.

‘It is a formal garden, but not strict and rigid. Everything has been thoughtfully designed and laid out for leisure, entertaining, and enjoyment’ explains Blue Carreon. ‘It has a spectacular waterfront location and sits high on a bluff offering uninterrupted views. Being on the water, it is exposed to harsh environmental elements, but somehow Marshall was able to tame these conditions and has orchestrated a thriving and beautiful garden.’

Partitions in gardens can be very effectively used as methods of seduction, to tempt you to walk through to the next area.

The hide-and-seek of not knowing what happens next makes the whole experience that much more intriguing. Nowhere is this demonstrated better than at this Hampton's garden, which has made use of the classical visual play of extending views.

Large gardens tend to need divisions in order to give them intimacy.

‘Since Marshall is an interior designer, he designed the garden with various rooms as he does with interiors.’ Blue explains. ‘You arrive in the gravel courtyard, which he likens to a garden entry hall. A couple of wisteria varieties climb over the garage, and there are various potted David Austin roses.'

'Adjacent to the courtyard is the potager, which has steps that lead to a Belvedere gazebo, which acts as a lookout point where one can soak in the garden.’

‘From there, the gates open to reveal the central axis of the garden. A swimming pool that doubles as a reflecting pool leads to the Greek Revival house.

'This is the walled garden and it features a hydrangea walk, topiarized lilac trees, a variety of peonies, soaring pin oak trees, and what has become the hallmarks of the garden - the dappled Japanese willow trees.’

Technical understanding of plants and their vagaries will only take you so far when designing. At some point, it is important to cut loose. The reason this garden excites me quite so much is that it strikes the perfect balance between form and frivolity.

The owners have adhered to the necessary corsets all grand, formal gardens need to, whilst also letting the abandon and lushness of nature flow freely.

The beds are not overly manicured, and fat cushions of flower and foliage sprawl and spill over paths, pollinators graze happily, and roses sprawl unencumbered.

'Marshall comes from a family of gardeners, so he has woven his family history through the plantings.' Blue explains.

'There are varieties that came from his childhood garden, as well as plants that were cultivated by his siblings. It is a singular garden in terms of style since it has been created by a passionate gardener who is meticulous about details and symmetry and who laboriously tends to it with love.'

At this time of year, the garden throbs in a tidal wave of color, and the nearby ocean makes the space feel remote and untouchable.

Foliage underpins all of the planting, and acts as a wonderful prelude to the floral element, providing a base note to the entire scheme.

There are many spots to perch and absorb the garden, and its many views. This is crucial for making it a place that makes you want to slow down, kick back and stay a while.

Something of a hybrid between a comfortable, lived-in garden with naturalistic planting and a more formal garden with carefully measured reduction and a distinct lack of ostentation, that does nothing to make the space less impressive.

Whether you have a small garden, are researching sustainable garden ideas, or want to create the ultimate entertaining garden, there's inspiration in bucketloads to be found at this beautiful space.

However, using coffee grounds in the garden doesn't mean throwing it around with wild abandon. In fact, applying it in the wrong places, and in the wrong way, can have problematic results for your plants – so it's worth doing your research before you try it.

Below, you’ll find essential info on plants that hate coffee grounds, where to avoid putting coffee grounds in your yard, alongside plenty of expert insights. You'll also find tips on how to use it for the best results.

On your annual vegetable garden

If you're tending to an annual vegetable garden this year, you may be tempted to add coffee grounds directly to the soil in the hope it will give them a boost. However, Kiera Jekos, a garden designer and educator at Gardenwell, doesn't recommend it.

Kiera explains that while it’s true that coffee grounds contain nitrogen, your plants can’t use it right away.

Gail Pabst, a horticulturist from the National Garden Bureau, says the nitrogen needs to undergo a process of decomposition and microbial activity before it can be released in a form plants can absorb.

'In fact, this decomposition process can actually be detrimental to your plants,' she says. 'As microbes work to break down the coffee grounds, they will compete for existing nitrogen in the soil, potentially depleting it rather than adding to it.' In other words, Kiera says this can rob leafy greens of what they need to thrive.

Also, the fine texture of coffee grounds makes them prone to clumping, Kiera adds. 'When applied directly, they can form a dense layer that repels water and limits airflow, which are two things your vegetable garden absolutely needs for healthy roots and soil life.'

What's more, Kiera notes how coffee contains trace allelopathic compounds, such as caffeine, that can interfere with germination and early root growth. 'Many of our quick-growing veggies, like lettuce, are quite sensitive to these chemicals.'

On hydrangeas to try and change their color

Used coffee grounds are often regarded as acidic. With this in mind, you may be tempted to use them around hydrangeas to alter the soil pH and, in turn, change the color of the blooms.

However, the idea that this works is a mere hydrangea-growing myth. According to Gail, once brewed, coffee grounds are actually much closer to pH neutral, typically falling between 6.5 and 6.8. 'This means they won't make your soil more acidic, as many might believe,' she says.

Riley Westbrook, founder of Valor Coffee, has studied coffee from every angle and is also a keen gardener. He tried applying coffee grounds to a blue hydrangea once, hoping the acidity would deepen the color, but the result was the opposite of healthy.

'The leaves curled, the blooms browned early, and the soil stayed too wet for too long,' he says. 'That heavy layer of grounds sealed the surface and held moisture, which stressed the roots and invited fungus.' It took weeks to reverse the damage, he adds.

Top tip: Instead of trying to change the color of your hydrangeas with coffee grounds, consider using a commercial product such as Grow More's hydrangea blueing formula, available from Amazon.

On Mediterranean herbs, and other plants that love well-draining soil

Riley also warns against using coffee grounds on plants that require well-draining soil, such as Mediterranean herbs (think lavender, rosemary, thyme, and sage). When you load their root zone with wet, compacted organic matter like coffee grounds, you create the opposite of what they need, he says.

'Their growth slows, their leaves yellow, and in some cases, the roots begin to rot from sitting in too much moisture. I have seen lavender collapse within weeks when someone layered thick coffee grounds as mulch.'

On this note, you may also want to steer clear of using coffee grounds directly on desert plants, such as succulents.

FAQs

What is the best way to use coffee grounds in the garden?

'While coffee grounds do contain some nutrients, they don't provide a well-balanced profile that plants require for optimal growth when used alone,' points out Gail.

She says the most effective and beneficial way to use them for your garden is by adding them to your compost pile. 'When incorporated into compost, coffee grounds contribute valuable organic matter and aid in the overall decomposition process. This indirect method allows the nitrogen and other nutrients to be released gradually and in a plant-available form as part of a balanced compost, ultimately contributing to healthier soil and better plant growth.'

Kiera also commends them as a fantastic addition to the compost pile. 'Once broken down, the finished compost can be added throughout the growing season.'

What can you use as a mulch instead of coffee grounds?

Using a layer of coffee grounds as a mulch can prevent water from getting to the soil, which isn't good for your plants. Instead, consider using homemade compost or leaf mold – the latter being a great way to put fallen leaves to good use.

Looking for more advice on sustainable gardening ideas? There are lots of natural fertilizers you can make at home to help your plants thrive – including compost tea. And if you're making your own compost, it's also a good idea to read up on composting mistakes to get the most from your efforts.

You may have a few tricks already up your sleeve for protecting plants in a heatwave, but some flowers need more attention in a heatwave and simply need us to provide physical shade from the blazing sun. This is where our old bedsheets come into play, as a modest but massively effective method of providing protection for our blooms.

Here's how your old bedsheets can save your garden from the searing heat this summer.

Why using bed sheets to protect plants from heat works

Old bedsheets are a perfect way to provide shelter, shade, and protection for your plants.

'During a heatwave, the combination of extreme heat, low humidity, and high sun exposure can cause several serious issues,' says gardening and preserving coach Robin Phelps.

'Wilting and leaf scorch, burned or faded blooms, accelerated water loss, leading to root stress, delayed or stunted growth, and soil compaction and crusting make water absorption harder. Even hardy, well-established plants will suffer when temperatures spike above 90°F (32°C) for extended periods.'

'A top tip for gardeners is to use old bedsheets to provide much-needed shade and protect delicate plants from peak sun.'

'During a heatwave, focus on keeping your garden hydrated, shaded, and stress-free. A little extra care can help your favorite flowers bounce back strong when cooler weather returns.' Robin explains.

How to use bed sheets to protect plants from heat

This garden idea is just as simple as it sounds, although it's probably wise to locate an old bedsheet you don't mind getting mucky.

Ensure the bed sheet is big enough to cover the area you want it to protect, and bear in mind the orientation of your yard. If your yard is south-facing, then you will be exposed to the most intense sunshine for the longest period. In which case, you may need to keep the sheet in place all day long for maximum protection.

If your yard is east-facing, then it will be exposed to intense sunlight in the morning hours, so you might find that you can remove the sheet (if you find it unsightly) by lunchtime.

The idea is to use the sheet as a barrier from the sun, so identify which way the sun shines into your yard, and use the sheet to block it. Blocking the hottest and most intense hours of sun is particularly important, and this will vary from yard to yard. Needless to say, if you skip this step, the whole exercise is somewhat futile (other than being a great laundry hack).

Don't physically cover your plants and flowers with the sheet; if the sheet is in direct contact with plants, it will cause them to heat up and may do more of a hindrance than a help. Instead, lay the sheets over a structure of some sort so it acts as a barrier and a makeshift shade cloth.

You can drape sheets over anything you have to hand in the garden, like garden stakes, pole bean teepees, or tomato cages.

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Shrubs, in particular, can be problematic. You grow them for height and structure in the borders, and suddenly, in the blink of an eye, they’re spreading, suckering or throwing up seedlings in your neighbor's yard. Or, on a more aesthetic note, tastes may change. Take Japanese laurel, for instance. I used to admire its gold-flecked foliage. Now it just screams car lot planting to me.

Of course, your experience might be entirely different, and that’s fine. In the right space, some of these shrubs might behave well and look beautiful. But if you’re after one gardener’s honest opinion, or perhaps a gentle moan, here are five plants I will never grow again.

5 shrubs I’ll never grow again

As you learn and grow as a gardener, you might regret past decisions. From invasive trees to invasive bulbs, ugly climbers to perennials with a foul odour, some species that once appealed might become a curse.

The good thing about gardening, however, is that nothing (really) is ever permanent, and you can always take action to remove or replant an area.

Here are five shrubs I'll never grow again, and alternatives I now prefer after a decade working in private and public gardens across Europe.

1. Fatsia

One of the shrubs I’ll never grow again is the paperplant, or Fatsia japonica. Yes, it is an evergreen shrub that is tough and reliable, but I have grown tired of its large, glossy palmate leaves.

Sure, if you enjoy tropical plants or want to include large-leaf specimens in your yard, you might disagree, but for me, this is a shrub that won't be making its way back into my good books.

And, beyond aesthetics, Fatsia japonica can be a little unruly, too. Once established, it can become a little dominating in the backyard landscape, especially in warmer zones. Reaching 15 or so feet, it can seemingly take over borders without regular pruning.

So, while it is not an invasive plant, and it certainly has fans, it is not for me. However, there is one relative of the paperplant that I find far more appealing.

Fatsia polycarpa 'Green Fingers', as seen in the image above, is less glossy than Fatsia japonica, and has far finer leaf 'fingers'.

This species can be grown in pots and borders down to zone 8, ideally in part-shade and with moist soil.

There are also other unique varieties, like this variegated fatsia, live plants available via Walmart, which might appeal more than the standard species.

2. Japanese laurel

There is no denying that Japanese laurel, or Aucuba japonica, is a useful plant. It can thrive in deep, dark shade and in moist, wet soil, where other shrubs may struggle.

However, and much the same as Fatsia japonica above, when I see the foliage, the speckled yellow and green leaves, I am not filled with joy.

Sadly, while it might be one of the best shrubs for shade, I think Japanese laurel has been overused in car parks and other public realm planting schemes, the likes of which you might spot around libraries, train stations, and so on.

It can also dominate, spreading in challenging areas where other shrubs might struggle, and in certain areas, including Virginia, it is reported as an invasive plant.

So, while this might be a shrub that thrives on neglect, I will not soon be planting it in my yard.

Instead, I would argue that the native buttonbush, or Cephalanthus occidentalis, is a better, and far safer, alternative.

In terms of how to grow buttonbush, this tough and versatile species can be planted down to zone 5, and, much like Japanese laurel, will do just fine in shade and damp soil.

Buttonbush live shrubs can be ordered online via Amazon.

3. Photinia

For many years, Photinia shrubs have been popular, often thought of as low-maintenance hedge plants or statement plants in pots and borders.

I am not a huge fan of their foliage coloration, and I know that I am not alone in this, but I do understand that some people enjoy the pop of red as a contrast to green.

However, I have always found them to be rather temperamental when caring for them in gardens in the UK, suffering from frost damage, or leaf spot or mildew. So, not quite as low-maintenance as they are often considered.

And, while the standard Photinia x fraseri 'Red Robin' is not considered aggressive, some Photinia species are, including P. serratifolia, which is classified as an invasive tree and shrub to avoid in California, Texas, Louisiana, Mississippi and Georgia.

Instead, for a low-growing hedge, I recommend oakleaf hydrangeas, which are far easier to grow. This native species, Hydrangea macrophylla, also has remarkable fall foliage, displaying oak-shaped leaves in shades of green and burgundy.

Live oakleaf hydrangeas can be ordered via Amazon, and can be planted in part-sun-part-shade down to zone 5.

4. Barberry

Japanese barberry, Berberis thunbergii, as well as some other species of barberry, are considered invasive plants to avoid growing, including in Maine, Wisconsin and Missouri.

While they might be fast-growing shrubs, in my opinion, they should always they should be kept out of backyards, particularly for this reason.

Indeed, they are overly vigorous outside of their native range, and this is to say nothing of the rather nasty spines along the stems.

Anyone who has pruned barberry will probably have the scars to prove it. This is not a job for the faint-hearted. And if you do need to do this task soon, my advice would be to invest in a good-quality pair of thornproof gardening gloves, available from Walmart.

If you need any more convincing, trying to remove leaves from the crown during fall and winter is also nigh-on impossible.

I once cared for a large swathe of barberry in central London, in a public park, and the London plane tree (Platanus × hispanica) foliage that would drop from above would gather in the crowns and look unsightly for many months. And, lacking thornproof sleeves, it was not an enjoyable task, I can tell you.

Instead, try learning how to grow ninebark, a thornless native shrub that can be planted down to zone 3 in part-shade, with impressive spring blooms and foliage coloration to rival that of any barberry.

Live ninebark plant can be ordered via Amazon.

5. Burning bush

Burning bush, or Euonymus alatus, can be easily spotted by its fiery red fall foliage.

And, while you might like the look of it during October and November, this shrub, in my opinion, should be avoided at all costs.

Indeed, outside of its native range, it can prove problematic, and today it is classified as an invasive plant in 21 US states, including Massachusetts, Pennsylvania and Delaware.

Once established, it can be very tricky to learn how to control burning bush, and they can quickly self-seed, disrupt local ecosystems and outcompete native shrubs.

Believe me, I have spent many hours using my hori hori knife to remove seedlings in one garden where I worked in Wales, which was not an enjoyable job, believe me.

There are so many native alternatives to burning bush shrubs. For a tough, resilient option, I would opt for the black chokeberry shrub, Aronia melanocarpa.

Hardy down to zone 3, this North American species will provide a vibrant fall display, without any worry of dominating your yard or getting out of hand.

Live chokeberry plants are available from Amazon.

In addition to these five, there are many other shrubs I’ll never grow again that didn't make it to the list above.

For example, a special mention must go to bear's breeches, Acanthus spp., as well as Rhus typhina, otherwise known as the stag's horn sumach, which I once planted in a large London plot, and in the subsequent years, it began suckering far and wide.

For more information, see our guide on shrubs and trees never to plant in a small backyard.

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There is a selection of biennials and perennials that can be started from seed in July. Not only is growing plants from seed wholly satisfying, but it gives you a cost-effective way to boost your flowering displays for future growing seasons.

I have grown lots of flowers over my years as a professional gardener, as I grew hundreds of annuals, biennials, and perennials each year from seed, either for garden displays or for cutting to go into bouquets or vases. I have picked seven biennial or perennial flowers to plant in July, and also provided some sowing advice for each.

Is it too late to plant flowers in July?

It is usually recommended to add plants to flower beds, borders, or containers in spring or fall. However, there are some annuals to sow in July, as well as many perennials you can plant during the hotter months if you want to fill a few gaps or spruce up your beds.

To help new plants establish, planting in the cooler parts of the day and watering the planting hole beforehand is recommended, as well as regular deep watering to settle the plants in.

While growing from seed is not the norm in July, there are some plants that you can start. It offers a budget-friendly way to introduce new plants that will bring color and texture to your garden next year and potentially for years to come.

7 of the best biennial and perennial flowers to plant in July

So let's take a look at a lovely selection of biennials and perennials that make great flowers to plant in July – with a little time and effort this summer, you can get fantastic blooming displays to enjoy in the future.

Scabious

These delicate, pretty flowers can go by many names. Whether you know them as scabious, scabiosa, or the pincushion flower, there is no denying these glorious cottage garden plants look stunning in flower beds, make great plants for pollinators, and can also be fabulous cut flowers.

Different varieties come in pastel shades of pink, purple, lilac, or white, and range from seven to 30 inches tall. It means there is a scabious for any different styles or designs.

To grow scabiosa this month, you can sow seeds indoors into trays or pots filled with seed compost. This is suitable for the second half of July, and the plants can be grown on, potted up, and overwintered to plant outside in spring.

Alternatively, throughout the month, you can sow seeds directly outdoors. Thinly sow seeds a half-inch deep, cover with a thin layer of soil, and keep moist for good germination.

Whatever option you choose, the scabious will start blooming next year, and you’ll have flowering plants that regrow every year in US hardiness zones 4-9.

See the range of scabiosa seeds at Amazon

See the range of scabiosa seeds at Walmart

See the range of scabiosa seeds at Burpee

See the range of scabiosa seeds at True Leaf Market

Coneflower

Coneflowers, also known commonly as echinacea, are spectacular additions to beds or containers. The petals open and then stretch out backwards around the large central seed head, offering texture and structure to a space, even long after their late summer blooming period.

They are native plants that adore full sun. If you give them more than six hours of daily sunlight, they will reward you with a great display of blooms that are loved by bees and butterflies.

Coneflower seeds can be sown into trays or pots this month. Keep the containers in a protected place, such as a cold frame, and the young plants can go into beds come fall, where the coneflowers can overwinter to burst into flower next year.

There are many great coneflower varieties to choose from, including types that produce blooms in a mix of colors. An example is these ‘Cheyenne Spirit’ echinacea seeds at True Leaf Market that have maroon, tangerine, yellow and cream flowers.

Once you have the perennial plants in your borders, you can even harvest coneflower seeds each year to sow for more plants.

Wallflowers

Wallflowers are traditionally biennial plants, although some perennial types can bloom for several growing seasons. Even perennial varieties typically need to be propagated every few years, as they can be short-lived.

Wallflowers are hardy in US hardiness zones 4–9 and make excellent spring-flowering plants for beds, borders, and containers. They come in a wide range of colours, many varieties are highly scented, and wallflowers can bloom from spring through late summer or fall if growing conditions are right and regular deadheading is done.

Wallflower seeds can be sown in late spring to early summer, either indoors or outdoors. Seeds can be started in trays or pots filled with compost, but they do not like temperatures too warm and germinate best at 55-65°F.

The simple alternative is to sow seeds outdoors. Make half-inch drills around 12 inches apart and thinly sow the seeds before covering with soil. Keep the ground moist, and the seeds should germinate within two weeks.

Transplant the seedlings from their starter bed to their final position. The plants will happily overwinter to burst into glorious bloom come spring.

Myosotis

Also commonly called forget-me-nots, Myosotis come in various forms, including biennial and short-lived perennial types. Ideal for adding distinctive blue flowers to any garden during spring and early summer, forget-me-nots are adaptable and simple to cultivate.

Additionally, they are known as prolific self-seeding flowers, so they will return year after year once planted in a garden. Once introduced into a space, you will never need to sow them again, and you can enjoy their charming flowers every spring.

Forget-me-not seeds can be planted from spring to early August directly into their growing position in a sunny or part-shade spot. Sprinkle the seeds into the soil and cover with a thin layer of compost.

Keep the soil moist, and the seeds should germinate within two weeks. The seedlings should be thinned to around 10 inches apart. These young plants will overwinter to flower next spring.

See the range of myosotis seeds at Amazon

See the range of myosotis seeds at Walmart

See the range of myosotis seeds at True Leaf Market

Delphinium

Delphiniums are popular tall perennial plants for cottage gardens. These dramatic plants have vivid, dense flower spikes that rocket skyward and burst into glorious bloom in early summer.

These flower spikes can reach six feet high and are typically in shades of blue or purple, but there are types of delphiniums that come in white or pink.

Growing delphiniums from seed is a cost-effective way to have lots of summer flowers for years to come, and July is not too late. While delphiniums are often sown indoors early in the year, you can sow seeds directly outdoors in summer this month.

Sow the seeds into well-draining, rich soil in a sunny, sheltered position. Thinly sow the seeds onto the surface, cover with a thin layer of soil, and keep the soil moist.

If you miss the window to sow outdoors this month, there is another opportunity to sow delphiniums for blooms next year. You can sow seeds indoors in late summer or early fall to plant outdoors come spring.

See the range of delphinium seeds at Amazon

See the range of delphinium seeds at Walmart

See the range of delphinium seeds at Burpee

See the range of delphinium seeds at True Leaf Market

Sweet Williams

Sweet Williams, or Dianthus barbatus, are biennials, or short-lived perennials in milder climates.

They bloom in late spring and summer, with charming serrated flowers in shades of red, pink, purple, and white, and are ideal for cottage garden beds, flower borders, cut flower gardens, or container gardens.

Sweet Williams like to grow in sunlight and well-draining soil. They are easy flowers to grow from seed, and can be sown directly into their growing position in late spring or early summer.

Alternatively, they can be started indoors in trays, modules, or small pots to be planted outside in late summer or early fall and flower next year.

Wherever you sow sweet william seeds, they are best planted at depths of only 1-2mm and prefer to develop in cool temperatures of 50-55°F. Too high, and there is a risk of leggy seedlings.

This Sweet William Seeds 'Double Mixture' at True Leaf Market is a lovely variety to sow and get a mix of blooms in shades of crimson, scarlet, and pink loved by hummingbirds, butterflies and bees.

Gaillardia

Also known as blanket flowers, these are showy, short-lived perennials that put on vivid displays of blooms. The daisy-like flowers come in shades of red, orange, and yellow to fill beds with eye-catching displays of color.

Plus, once they are established, gaillardia is a low-maintenance, drought-tolerant plant that will readily self-seed and keep growing in the same area. They are ideal plants for cottage or wildflower gardens and are easy to grow from seed.

You can sow gaillardia seeds directly into the soil in July to flower the following year. The young plants that develop in late summer can overwinter in US hardiness zones 3-10 and produce a great display of flowers next summer and fall.

A particularly popular variety is 'Arizona Sun', an All-America Selections winner with bicolored petals, yellow on the edge and dark red in the center. You can get 'Arizona Sun' Gaillardia seeds from Burpee to sow.

FAQs

Can I plant a rose in July?

You can plant container-grown roses in July into beds or containers. However, it is not the ideal time to plant roses as they are actively growing and you’ll need to water them regularly to ensure they establish during the hotter months.

Roses planted in July may not put on a great flowering display this summer, but will perform better in the years to come. If you do want to grow roses, they are best planted in early spring or fall.

It can be a busy month in the garden. As well as planting flowers, there is a lot of watering, feeding, weeding, and deadheading to do to keep your plants looking their absolute best. It can all add up to a long summer gardening checklist.

To help you plan your month, our guides to plants to prune in July and plants to fertilize in July can help you ensure your yard looks neat, healthy, and bountiful over the summer.

Often ignored, hellstrip gardens are becoming increasingly popular, with the potential to vastly improving our urban environments. However, before you set out to cultivate the hellstrip in front of your property, we’ll take you through the potential regulations you might need to adhere to and discuss the dos and don'ts of hellstrip gardening.

Perfect for complementing or extending your front yard design, I spoke with experts to get their advice on hellstrip gardening and the right ways to incorporate them into your urban gardening ideas.

What is a hellstrip and who owns it?

Known as a boulevard or sidewalk strip, this narrow no-man's land between the sidewalk and the street is sometimes referred to as a hellstrip due to its inhospitable conditions.

Often trampled to compaction, splashed with salt over the winter, far from the nearest garden hose and surrounded by heat-reflecting pavement, it is hard to think of anything that would grow well here. However, some plant species are remarkably robust and, with only a little care, can transform these near-wasteland spaces.

When it comes to possession, hellstrips can be owned by the adjacent homeowner, but are more commonly the property of the local municipality.

Utilities often run underneath hellstrips, meaning that any access requests for maintenance must be accommodated. You can ask your utility company to inform you where any pipes or cables are located so you can plant accordingly.

However, the responsibility of a hellstrip's upkeep, including mowing, planting and any weeding, generally falls to the adjacent property owner.

What are the rules and regulations on mowing or planting a hellstrip?

Regulations on what you are permitted to do with a hellstrip garden can vary between and across states. However, with climate change and temperatures rising, many governing authorities are relaxing their regulations to encourage homeowners and community groups to plant up and utilise these areas. Which, in turn, will hopefully improve the curb appeal and biodiversity of the local area and reduce air pollution and the risk of flooding.

'In many municipalities, the homeowner can plant the grassy area between the sidewalk and the street, often called the fairway or hellstrip' explains Andrew Bunting, VP of Horticulture for the Pennsylvania Horticultural Society and author of The Plant Lovers Guide To Magnolias (available on Amazon).

However, with the use of hellstrips being governed by the local municipality, it is prudent to check with them before designing or planting your hellstrip to ascertain what is allowed or if a permit is required.

Wherever you are located, the regulations generally state that any planting must be kept short enough to give pedestrians a clear view of the street and that access is to be preserved for any utility companies.

If you have a lawn as part of or all of your hellstrip, your local authority may stipulate that you must maintain it and mow any long grass. This is not only to keep the area looking well-kept, but also to ensure the safety of any pedestrians and to prevent overgrown plants from becoming a potential hazard.

Best plants for hellstrip gardening

'Plants for the hellstrip need to be urban tough, drought resistant and often take hot and dry conditions' says Andrew Bunting.

Furthermore, when it comes to hellstrip gardening, you will also need to choose plants or shrubs that will remain under any stipulated height restrictions, or be committed to pruning them regularly. When considering what to plant, it is important to take into account how often you will be able to water them.

Being adjacent to the sidewalk, hellstrips are not usually near a garden hose, meaning that any irrigation is by hand and often put at the bottom of the to-do list. However, you may be able to install a drip irrigation system or a soaker hose, which can not only save you time but also reduce water wastage as well.

Due to the challenge of irrigating hellstrip gardens, homeowners and garden designers often choose drought-tolerant perennials and native planting, as once established, they can survive prolonged dry spells and are often naturally suited to local conditions.

Furthermore, as gardening expert Annette Hird suggests, 'by sticking to native species endemic to the region, means that the plantings are both eco-friendly and can provide food sources for local wildlife, including birds'.

Tough plants such as Russian sage and lamb’s ears can work well as they are considered hardy in USDA zones 4 – 9, can cope with poor soil and require little ongoing maintenance.

Ornamental grasses are also a common choice for hellstrip gardening, as whatever the growing conditions, there is usually one that will suit. Providing texture and movement, grasses such as this dwarf prairie dropseed from Nature Hills are a good choice as they are considered hardy in USDA zones 3 – 9 and can tolerate dry, shallow soil conditions and air pollution.

For hot and dry conditions, sedums and stonecrops can be another good choice. Storing water in their fleshy leaves, they are drought-tolerant and ideal for a hard-to-irrigate hellstrip. Furthermore, varieties such as this low-growing SunSparkler® Lime Zinger Sedum from Nature Hills, suitable for US zones 4 – 9, will help suppress weeds and attract butterflies when it flowers in late summer to early fall.

However, as Annette Hird rightly says, 'always make sure you're not planting any species that are considered invasive in your state. Checking with the local Extension office is always a good idea.'

Design ideas for hellstrip gardens

Planting up a hellstrip can add curb appeal to your home, but for the best results, consideration needs to be taken to ensure that it is in keeping with your front yard, if you have one.

To encourage cohesion with your front yard, you can choose to plant up your hellstrip in the same style or with similar plants or colors. For example, if you have a cottage garden style or low-maintenance front yard, you could continue your theme into the hellstrip using similar but low-growing varieties or only a few of the same plants but in repetition or swathes.

Hellstrips can also be used to grow vegetables, or as Andrew Bunting suggests, 'these areas can also become pollinator gardens and would be a good place for the common milkweed, Asclepias syriacus and the butterfly milkweed, Asclepias tuberosa'.

Another factor to consider when designing a hellstrip garden is a pathway from the street to the sidewalk, as this will hopefully discourage any pedestrians from trampling on the plants. This is key, especially if you live in a built-up urban environment or if there is on-street parking.

For those short on time or perhaps new to gardening, low-maintenance plants and shrubs can be a great addition to your garden.

However, if you are concerned that low-care plants mean low impact, this expert selection of plants that never need pruning, will still make a great impression, whether you give them a light prune or not.

Some things will indeed struggle in the heat. Some annuals might refuse to grow or flower in the scorching days and dry soil. But there are some, like nasturtium and alyssum, that I have found are dependable and fast-moving, even if you are a little delayed in terms of your sowing schedule.

My advice: sow them directly outside or into small eco-pots that can be transplanted easily without disturbing the roots. These annuals to sow in July might not be the finest or bushiest display you will ever grow, but you might still get a pretty pot display, all while helping a pollinator or two as we approach fall. Here are even of my favorite flowers to plant in July.

7 annuals to sow in July

These seven fast-growing flowering annuals to sow in July have remarkable growth rates and can germinate and bloom in record time.

Indeed, many annuals, like some of the best zinnia varieties, can help to fill pots and borders with color for those last few weeks and months of the growing season.

Here are seven of my favorite annuals that I have tried and tested, and grown myself over my professional career.

1. Calendula

Calendula are some of the best late-summer flowers you can grow. I have planted them in vegetable beds, flower borders, and even in cracks and crevice gardens.

They are quick to germinate, with shoots usually emerging around 7 to 10 days. You can then expect flowers around 8 weeks after germination, which means if you sow them in July, you might enjoy some September and October blooms.

I would always recommend growing the classic favorite of gardeners, 'Indian Prince', with seeds available to order now via Amazon.

To me, this soft orange bloom is always a winner, especially when planted alongside other colorful annuals.

Calendula, like all of these annuals, can grow in a range of US hardiness zones, with a preference for lots of sunshine and good water every now and then.

In warm summers, provide some protection for seedlings and young plants, opting for a part-sun-part-shade spot, which will protect the young foliage from harsh rays.

Deadheading will help to prolong the summer show, but be sure to let one or two go to seed. These self-seeding flowers will help to provide you with the goods for next year's show.

2. Violas

Dainty violas are more resilient than they look. While they are not quite patio plants that thrive on neglect, these fast-growing tiny flowers are pretty tough, so long as the soil doesn't dry out entirely.

In terms of how to grow and care for violas, opt for a part-sun-part-shade spot in the yard, although I find it is easier to start them in a cold frame or greenhouse first, and plant outside later.

They usually take around 10 to 14 days to germinate and should flower within eight weeks. Just be sure to keep the soil moist to prevent them from sulking in the heat.

'Tiger Eye', as seen in the image here, is my absolute favorite viola, for obvious reasons. The markings, I think, are so special, and even in miniature, they steal the show.

'Tiger Eye' live plants can be ordered now from Burpee. Simply give them a good, deep watering on arrival, and get them planted in the ground as soon as possible.

3. Nasturtium

Nasturtiums are one of my favorite climbers to grow in pots and borders, and are ideal if you want flowers in rapid time.

Indeed, these are vigorous climbing plants that thrive on neglect, with a sprawling, vining habit that I love, often snaking and finding their way across the garden, sometimes producing many inches of growth in a single day.

In kitchen gardens, they are useful plants for pollinators and for adding color to soften the edge of beds, but I most enjoy growing them in pots.

In terms of how to grow nasturtium, choose a sunny or part-shade spot in your yard. I recommend sowing them directly into big containers alongside dahlias, zinnias or other flowering annuals. They should germinate within a week in warm soil and don’t need rich compost.

This pale-lemon 'Peach Melba' variety, with seeds available from Burpee, is one of my favorites this year, and should quickly grow and produce blooms by late summer and early fall.

4. Alyssum

Alyssum is a wonderfully old-fashioned annual that I’ve come to rely on, particularly for pot displays or when used as a flowering ground cover plant.

As flowers go, it is remarkably unfussy, the sort of plant that quietly gets on with it. Simply sow seeds directly where you want them to flower in a sheltered corner of the yard.

I have found Alyssum prefers cooler conditions, best thought of as a part-shade annual, so in southern regions, such as zone 9, be sure to give it a spot with some afternoon shade.

Germination takes around a week, and you might spot the first bloom by week six or seven, which is pretty impressive by any standard.

Alyssum seed tape is available to order from Burpee and takes the stress out of flower growing.

Simply dig your shallow trench, and roll out your tape. The seeds are already spaced correctly, so you don't need to worry about measuring or counting them. Simple.

5. Morning Glory

Morning glory vines are notorious for their fast growth rate. I have grown them on several occasions, opting for vibrant varieties, such as this 'Candy Pink' option, with seeds available to order now from Burpee.

In terms of how to grow morning glory from seed, sow directly in July, or into biodegradable pots, available from Walmart, to minimize root disturbance.

Germination can take seven or so days, sometimes less if you gently sand or nick the seeds first.

Spring sowing can result in growth of over 10 feet in a matter of months, and while this probably won't be the case if you are sowing in July, they will still reach an impressive height by fall.

In my experience, a sunny position with at least six hours of direct light is best. And, don't forget to be generous with the watering can every few days.

6. California poppies

California poppies, or Eschscholzia californica, are a classic (and foolproof) summer annual.

They were actually the first flowers I grew from seed with my father many years ago, and if a heavy-handed 13-year-old can do it, then I am pretty sure you can, too.

I have found they will grow almost anywhere, from dry, dusty beds to fertile flower borders. And, as you might have inferred from the name, these are California native plants, so they can do just fine with very little water.

Sow them directly in July. I have found that they hate transplanting. They should germinate within seven days and flower in as little as six weeks.

This 'Yukon Gold' variety, with bright golden-yellow blooms, is on my shopping list, and is currently available to buy online from Burpee.

7. Cornflowers

If you are looking for wildflower garden ideas, you won't find much better than cornflowers.

Often thought of as some of the best blue flowers, I have grown them in gravel borders, wildflower mixes, or cut flower gardens, and always found them to be reliable and late-flowering.

Cornflower seeds, available from Walmart, can be sown directly outside in full sun flowerbeds and borders this month, and you can expect blooms in about eight to 10 weeks, which will last up until the first frost.

So, while it is preferable to grow them far earlier in the year, you can still enjoy a short few weeks in September and October of color.

For an unusual option, try 'Black Ball', with seeds available from Amazon. I love this dark, maroon option, which looks great in the border or when snipped and placed in a vase indoors.

FAQs

Can I sow zinnias in July?

Yes, zinnias can still be sown in July, although the flowering window will be far shorter than compared to seeds sown in spring.

In terms of how to grow zinnias, sow them in full sun and provide plenty of water (ideally early in the morning or late at night) to keep them in good health.

You can expect flowers within nine or 10 weeks, so if you get them in the ground early in July, you can enjoy some October flowers (hopefully!).

Zinnia seeds can be ordered now via Burpee.

If you are keen to enjoy the maximum number of flowers in your yard this summer, have you considered rethinking weeds? Tough, native species can add color and impact to your plot, albeit in a natural, wild aesthetic.

Why not leave a few rogue dandelions in the lawn or some blue alkanet growing at the back of the border, both of which are impressive (and beautiful) flowering weeds for pollinators. Our guide has all the information you need to know.

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You see, indoor plant care requires effort all year round. So, while the summer provides much more favorable conditions for houseplants (unlike cold windows and lack of light when caring for houseplants in winter), there is still room for things to go wrong if you neglect care.

More specifically, the hotter temperatures bring new challenges for houseplant hydration and protecting plants from scorch and active pest populations. But, don't fret. All you need to do is familiarize yourself with these five summer houseplant care mistakes to avoid.

5 summer houseplant care mistakes

You'll find a lot of these summer houseplant care mistakes go back to the basics of common indoor plant mistakes. However, it's important to understand how the warmest season specifically impacts houseplant health and what you need to do to ensure they make it through to fall.

1. Keeping sensitive plants on a south-facing windowsill

The first thing I always tell new houseplant collectors is that not every plant grows in the same conditions. This is especially true when it comes to indoor low light plants vs indoor plants for direct sun.

The former won't do well in a direct sun position. In fact, such intense sunlight exposure can cause leaf scorch and discoloring foliage.

'More light does indeed come through south-facing windows compared to others, so there's a high chance that on sunny days, delicate plant leaves may get sunburned,' says Anastasia Borisevich of Plantum.

'If the plants are not succulents, cacti, or variegated varieties that benefit from sunlight to maintain their coloration, it's better to choose an east or west-facing window, where the amount of direct bright light is limited to four to six hours.'

If you're struggling to find a less intense sunlight spot in your home, try creating filtered light with these sheer curtains from Wayfair.

2. Not increasing watering frequency

Watering houseplants is where a lot of indoor gardeners go wrong, as too little or too much water can quickly lead to the downfall of houseplants. A factor that impacts watering frequency: temperature. So, as summer days warm up the temperature, it's important to adjust watering frequency accordingly.

'In summer, the soil in pots dries out faster, so plants need to be watered more frequently than usual. It's very important that watering is thorough and regular, but the surface of the soil has time to dry out between waterings,' says Anastasia.

Of course, each houseplant has differing watering needs and some will be able to deal with drought better than others. Nevertheless, they will all dry out more quickly in summer, so it's likely you'll need to water more often than in other seasons.

Dehydration can cause a few symptoms, for example a monstera drooping or an asparagus fern turning yellow.

To avoid this, I like to use this soil moisture meter from Amazon to monitor moisture levels in my houseplant soil. Depending on the plant, I tend to top up water when the top couple of inches have dried out.

3. Watering too often

Just like underwatering, overwatering is also something to avoid in summer. I've been guilty of this in previous years, worrying about the hot weather dehydrating my houseplants and rushing to pick up my watering can to add more water to the soil.

But, if you don't allow houseplant soil to dry sufficiently before watering again, it could waterlog the soil and cause houseplant root rot. Not only this, but too-wet soil can cause problems like a fungus gnat infestation or a build-up of mold and mildew.

'Many assume more sun equals more water, but the real key is checking the soil, not the schedule. When it's hot, soil can dry quickly on the surface while still holding moisture deeper down,' says Donna Letier, houseplant expert and CEO of Gardenuity. 'Always test with your finger or a moisture meter,' she adds.

Donna also says to avoid using cold water in the heat: 'Room temperature water is easier on stressed roots. Plus, whenever possible remember to hydrate from the bottom up,' she says.

Make sure you're equipped with a houseplant watering can (from Amazon) for the summer season ahead.

4. Overfertilizing houseplants

Fertilizing mistakes are also common during summer. This is because spring and summer are the ideal time to feed houseplants (because they're actively growing), but feeding too much could kill off indoor plants by burning roots.

'When a plant is stressed from high temps, it’s not focused on growth. Instead of monthly feeding, cut back to a diluted mix every six weeks,' says Donna. 'Skip the fertilizer entirely if your plant is showing signs of sunburn or root stress,' she adds.

As for the best fertilizer for houseplants, it really depends on the plants you have. I find a balanced all-purpose fertilizer (from Amazon) works well for the majority of houseplants, but you can also use one high in phosphorus (like this fertilizer from Amazon) for indoor flowering plants to boost blooms.

You can also use plant-specific fertilizer, like this monstera plant food from Amazon to fertilize your monstera.

Of course, there are also houseplants you don't need to fertilize often, for a more low-maintenance option.

5. Not checking for pests regularly

Warmer weather = ideal conditions for common houseplant pests to thrive and multiply. I've struggled with a few pest infestations in my time caring for houseplants, and that's why I now regularly check my plant leaves to jump on any pest problems immediately.

The likes of spider plants on houseplants, thrips on houseplants, and even aphids on houseplants are active during the warmest time of year.

Pests typically like to hide on the underside of leaves, so it's important to check here. If you do spot any, you can then take action accordingly to stop the pest problem spreading.

For example, use homemade bug spray, physically remove pests, or blast your plants with water to rid them of pests.

I also like to clean houseplant leaves weekly to stop a build-up of dust and debris, which attracts pests. Use microfiber cloths (from Amazon) to gently wipe leaves clean, which will also make them look glossier.

FAQs

Is summer a good time to prune houseplants?

Yes, summer is a good time to prune houseplants because it's usually when they're actively growing. Using essential pruning tools (like these shears from Amazon), remove any damaged and disease foliage. This will give your houseplant a healthier look and encourage new growth. Make sure to clean your gardening tools after each use to prevent the spread of potential pests and diseases.

Summer is also an excellent time to grow houseplants from cuttings. Warmth is fundamental for rooting cuttings, so it's a good time to take advantage of higher summer temperatures. Place cuttings on a warm windowsill and don't let them dry out.

Because I don't have much space for fruit and vegetables, I grow potatoes each year in a tower on our patio.

It is neat and easy, taking up hardly any space but producing an enviable harvest. Potato towers are perfect for compact urban gardens, balconies and terraces and here I share everything you need to know about growing a crop of potatoes vertically.

How to grow potatoes vertically in a tower

Potato towers are wire cages standing four or five foot tall that contain layers of straw, compost and seed potatoes.

They are easy to make and can fit into a corner of even a small balcony or yard. I think it is always worth including potatoes in your small vegetable plot ideas because they are such a space-efficient and versatile crop.

Depending on the variety, they will be ready for harvest from early summer right through to the fall, meaning you can grow them as part of your homegrown Christmas dinner.

Equipment you will need

Towers are easy to construct and can be reused year after year, making them a sustainable way to grow potatoes and other tubers.

You will need wire cutters such as these Hurricane snips on Amazon, a length of chicken wire or wire mesh, like this galvanized mesh from Amazon, that is around 4 foot long and 3 foot high.

You'll need zip ties like these heavy-duty cable ties from Amazon.

You can leave your tower as it is, but if you are worried about making a mess or want to prevent voles or mice from burrowing in and nesting, you can stand it in a sack or bag so the base is contained.

I have used burlap sacks, like these at natural jute bags on Amazon, wooden half-barrels and even old plastic compost sacks. Pierce the sacks with scissors first so the compost didn’t become waterlogged.

You will also need a good quality potting soil, like R&M Organics Premium Compost on Amazon that is suitable for growing vegetables, and some straw.

Generally speaking, potatoes are not fussy about their container as long as it doesn't let in the light as this will turn the tubers green, and drains well.

How to grow potatoes in a tower

Potatoes like warmth, so a south-facing balcony is ideal. Alternatively, position it where it will get the most sun and we recommend building it there so you don't need to move a full, heavy tower later on.

• Start by making a cylindrical bin using the wire mesh. Use wire cutters to cut a piece of mesh that is roughly two feet in diameter and four foot tall, as this will give you plenty of depth for your potatoes but also not be too difficult to access.
• Tie it together using the zip ties and if you want it to be more stable you could attach the wire frame to a sturdy rebar stake like these heavy-duty ones on Amazon and insert it into the soil.
• Now line the base of your tower with a layer of straw 2-3 inches deep, and create a hollow in the middle for your compost. The straw will help support the structure, improve drainage and also insulate your potatoes.
• Now add your first layer of potatoes. These should be placed on the compost and against the sides of the straw 'nest' with their eyes where the shoots will develop pointing outwards.
• Cover the potatoes with a thin later of compost and water them well.
• Now make another straw nest on top of the potatoes, add more compost and potatoes, water them well and continue this layering process, as though you are lasagna gardening, until you are 4 inches from the top of the tower.
• As the potatoes grow, shoots will erupt through the sides of the tower and the top growth of the top later of potatoes will emerge from the top.
• As your plants grow, keep them well watered but make sure the tower drains well to prevent your crop from rotting.

Growing and harvesting tower potatoes

Fertilizing potatoes will definitely improve your crop, and you can buy specific potato fertiliser like this liquid feed on Amazon which is designed to give growing tubers all the essential plant nutrients they need.

Harvest your potatoes once the flowers have died back. If you don't have containers with side openings, carefully dip your hands into the container from the top and remove as many tubers as you need.

At the end of the season, when the top growth has died back, empty the compost and harvest the rest of your potatoes. You can expect each plant to produce around 2 pounds of tubers.

The best potato varieties for vertical growing

Indeterminate potatoes, which take 80 to 100 days from planting to harvest, grow tubers along their stems making them perfect for vertical growing.

Popular varieties include the heirloom tuber ‘Strawberry Paw’, high yielding ‘Snowden’, purple-skinned ‘Kennebec’ which stores well after harvest, ‘Red Pontiac’ which is good for boiling and mashing and ‘Umatilla Russet’, a classic potato popular for making fries.

Determinate varieties that only produce one layer of tubers are also known as baby or new potatoes. They are quick to ripen and are usually ready for harvest 70-90 days after planting.

The best varieties include the versatile ‘Yukon Gold’ which is good for boiling and roasting, ‘Norland’ which has good disease resistance, red-skinned ‘Chieftain’ (good storage) and the heavy-cropping ‘Cal White’.

A wide variety of seed potatoes, along with growing advice, can be found at Burpee.

Potato pests

Like all plants, potatoes can suffer from pest attack above and beneath the soil.

The main ones to watch out for are aphids, which attack the top growth, sucking sap which weakens the plant and can spread diseases and Colorado potato beetle.

These beetles are a major threat and can decimate potato plants, eating the leaves to the point where there is no top growth left.

They also attack tomato plants, eggplants and peppers. At soil level cutworms can chew through stems, while slugs hang out within the compost and burrow into the potato tubers.

Where possible, use natural pest control methods and nematodes to protect your plants, removing pests by hand as soon as you see them and encouraging pest predators such as garden birds, ladybugs and wasps into your yard.

You can even use cooked potatoes to attract garden birds as they are a safe and nutritious treat for them.

However, if pest infestations are bad, we recommend using an organic solution such as Colorado Beetle Beater at Amazon, which also combats a wide range of unwanted critters.

FAQs

What can I use if I'm unable to build a tower?

Tall, robust bags or containers for growing fruit and vegetables are widely available.

We like these reusable 10-gallon potato growbags on Amazon. They are large enough for good cropping and have side openings that make it easier to access your potato harvests.

Can I grow sweet potatoes vertically?

If space is tight you can definitely grow sweet potatoes in containers.

They are usually a sprawling crop so cultivating them in containers is ideal for small gardens, though they will need a large container or grow bag. They also need warmth, so wait to plant until well after the last frosts.

Can I reuse potato compost?

As a way of saving money, creating a zero-waste garden and as a form of sustainable gardening, you can reuse the compost and straw from your potato tower after harvest.

The compost can be used as a soil conditioner and you can either adad the straw to your compost heap or use it to protect plants in winter once you have made sure it doesn't contain pests.

However, if your plants were struck by potato blight it is a safe precaution to dispose of the compost instead.

Potatoes are one of the easiest and most satisfying vegetables to grow and because they can be grown in containers, they are the perfect solution if you are considering what to grow in a small yard, patio or balcony.

Knowing how to grow impatiens is a doddle, but did you know that deadheading impatiens is vital for encouraging yet more blooms?

Luckily, they don't need deadheading often, but they will serve even more flower power if you do. Here's when, why, and crucially, how to deadhead these sprightly summertime blooms.

Do I need to deadhead impatiens?

If you want your impatiens to stay picture perfect, then, yes, in short, you do need to deadhead them.

Regular deadheading helps to maintain neat displays, and if they're left to their own devices, impatiens will quickly look very shabby. What's more, if you forgo deadheading, they will not be jolted into producing more flowers, so you will have a far less productive plant overall.

When we don't deadhead impatiens, the spent flowers will drop off and rot, which very often causes outbreaks of grey mold. It is best to remove spent flowers before they drop off of their own accord, and allow the energy to be redirected back into the plant so it can produce more flowers for your garden.

When to deadhead impatiens

Impatiens can be deadheaded at any time during the growing and flowering season. Impatiens typically bloom from spring through fall, so they can be deadheaded for many months, and still produce more and more flowers.

Keep an eye out for spent flowers. They naturally fall away from the plant, but removing them before they drop off will allow your impatiens to redirect its energy into creating more blooms.

How to deadhead impatiens

Knowing how to deadhead impatiens is wonderfully straightforward. Firstly, identify those spent flowers you wish to remove. Flowers that are over will appear wilted, or even have collapsed.

Remove the entire stem of the faded flower, either with scissors or you can use your fingers to pinch them off. You will want to remove back to a node, which is the point in the stem where new growth can come through.

To avoid one of the most common deadheading mistakes, never remove more than one-third of the plant (they won't thank you for it).

Repeat this regularly throughout the growing season, ideally weekly.

If you're worried your busy Lizzies are looking spindly, and there is a frustratingly large space between leaves, then your impatiens have become 'leggy', and leggy plants go on to make far fewer lovely flowers.

If this is the case, you can prune your leggy plants, and this will make them send energy back into making new, lush growth. You can prune them throughout the growing season.

When new growth does emerge in the coming days, this is where pinching out plants comes into its own. By 'pinching' off these new shoots, it will encourage more side shoots to emerge, resulting in yet more flowers.

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Knowing how to deadhead impatiens as the flowers fade is your ticket to non-stop blooms all summer long. They're one of the best container plants for shade, so don't be afraid of popping them in a darker corner to inject some much-needed color.

If your impatiens leaves are turning yellow, it might be that they aren't getting quite enough nutrition, so try feeding them and ensuring they are getting plenty of nutrients to be happy, healthy, and prolific flowerers.

It isn't as simple as just picking up your plants and placing them inside of your greenhouse ideas though. In fact, there are many commonly made greenhouse mistakes that lead to plants facing trouble, from wilting to scorching under the sun's intensity, as well as threatening the longevity of your greenhouse structure.

To navigate these pitfalls and ensure your greenhouse plants stay on top form, we talked to plant experts to hear about the most frequently made greenhouse mistakes and why each can be detrimental to your plants. Once you're in the know about these five key greenhouse mistakes, you'll be all set to curate the greenhouse of your dreams.

1. Purchasing a low quality greenhouse

It may be tempting to purchase the cheapest greenhouse you can find for your garden ideas, but a greenhouse of higher quality is worth the investment and will last far longer.

Skip Richter, owner of Gardening With Skip, says, 'Many cheaper greenhouses are unfortunately rather short lived, difficult to use and will soon enough need to be replaced.'

The worth garden 4 tier mini greenhouse from Amazon is a popular choice for people planning a greenhouse on the smaller side. Though be mindful about the size of your greenhouse: if you purchase one too small there either won't be enough space for your plants or your plants will become crowded, competing for moisture and space.

2. Having poor ventilation inside a greenhouse

It's important to open the windows and doors of your greenhouse on particularly warm days, even if you're growing tropical garden ideas. Many people forget that greenhouses need air, and poorly ventilated greenhouse creates the perfect environment to stifle your plant's ability to breathe, exposing them to all kinds of dangerous diseases.

Reese L. Robbins, creator of Just Pure Gardening, says, 'Without good airflow, heat and humidity build up quickly, creating ideal conditions for fungal diseases like botrytis and powdery mildew. Plants may also suffer from heat stress.'

Clipping a fan like the AC infinity Cloudray from Amazon onto a shelf in your greenhouse to help circulate airflow can also be a great help in preventing stagnant air.

3. Positioning your greenhouse in the direct sun

Glass gets incredibly warm on hot days. You may have felt it before in a conservatory or while sitting in an overly-toasty car. If your greenhouse has no shade it will become a sauna during the summer, which is far too hot for the the best food to grow in greenhouses and other plants to handle.

'Many gardeners forget that greenhouses can become scorching in midsummer,' says Reese. 'Without shade, indoor plants for direct sunlight can suffer leaf scorch and stunted growth.'

To remedy this, do what you can to place your greenhouse in part shade or install a shade cloth like this shade cloth from Amazon to the roof of your greenhouse. This cloth still allows light to come in but takes the edge off of it so your plants won't burn.

4. Using garden soil in greenhouse containers

Similar to a cold frame, the artificial climate of a greenhouse is different to that of a garden, so the soil needs to be different to accommodate it. It's a common error for people to use the same soil types everywhere in their yard, but doing so will leave most of your greenhouse container plants waterlogged.

'Using regular garden soil in pots inside a greenhouse is a mistake,' says Reese. 'It's heavy, drains poorly, and can introduce pests and pathogens. Use a sterile, well-draining potting mix instead. It’s lighter and reduces disease risks significantly.'

The jiffy natural & organic soil mix from Amazon is a popular choice, providing aeration for plant roots as well as nutrients.

5. Using dirty tools, containers and covers

Reusing pots and tools in your greenhouse between different plants may not seem like a problem at all, but it can actually cause a lot of issues down the line. If diseases spread from plant to plant, the humid conditions of a greenhouse will encourage bacteria to develop faster, bringing rapid harm to your plants.

Tatiana B. Anderson, a tropical plant expert at TopTropicals.com, says, 'Reusing dirty pots or tools spreads disease. Clean garden tools and disinfect containers and trays regularly using a diluted bleach solution to clean clear plastic or ground covers if they show mold or algae buildup.'

You can wipe surfaces down, including cleaning the greenhouse itself, with natural cleaning agents such as lemon and baking soda, or white vinegar.

If you're into DIY, why not consider making your own greenhouse? There are endless DIY greenhouse ideas out there to try in different shapes and sizes, and some of these are ideal for smaller garden plots and even balconies.

Rather than seeds and nuts loved by other wild birds, hummingbirds like to feast on nectar. While planting certain flowers can attract them, you can also make your own hummingbird food to fill up a special hummingbird feeder.

Put it out at the right time of year in the right place, and, with a bit of luck, your feathered friends will soon come flocking. But this sugary mixture, combined with warm temperatures, can soon lead to mold growth. We have spoken to wildlife experts to find out exactly what to do if you see anything suspect, and how to prevent it in future.

How to clean black mold off a hummingbird feeder

If you've seen something suspect, the best thing to do is take your feeder down straight away and give it a good clean. As Ben Team, wildlife expert of FootstepsInTheForest.com, points out, mold can cause health concerns for the birds or trigger them to stop visiting the feeder. An example of the former is candidiasis, a potentially fatal infection that makes their tongues swell, preventing them from eating.

Cleaning a hummingbird feeder is really quite straightforward, and doesn't require anything fancy. In fact, both Ben and Yaron Lief, the president of mold-remediation experts Orange Restoration San Diego, recommend using water and vinegar.

'Start by emptying the feeder completely,' says Yaron. 'Rinse it with hot water, then soak it in a mixture of one part white vinegar to four parts water.' He then recommends scrubbing all the surfaces thoroughly, with the help of a bottle brush or a pipe cleaner. 'Pay special attention to small crevices and feeding ports,' he says.

Once your feeder is clean, give it a good rinse. You'll want to ensure you can no longer detect the odor of vinegar, Ben advises. You can then refill it with fresh food and pop it back outside.

'Avoid using soap or bleach unless necessary,' adds Yaron. 'If you do, rinse thoroughly to make sure no residue is left behind.'

Charlie Leduc of Axxonlab, another pro at tackling mold, says that all mold, regardless of species, is allergenic and carries potential exposure risk to all organisms. He advises wearing disposable nitrile gloves when cleaning surface mold of any kind. 'Mold can be a dermal irritant, especially for those with compromised immune systems, or allergies to mold and shellfish.'

How to prevent it from happening again

'To avoid mold developing in the future, be sure to empty, clean, and refill your hummingbird feeder regularly – at least once per week in cool weather and every few days when the temperatures are high,' says Ben.

Yaron also recommends keeping the feeder in a shaded area to slow down fermentation, and to always use the proper nectar ratio. 'Avoid adding dyes, honey, or anything else, as those can speed up mold growth,' he adds.

FAQs

Are some hummingbird feeders easier to clean than others?

Buying a complicated design that's fiddly to clean is a hummingbird feeder mistake you'll quickly come to realize. Instead, look for something simpler, such as The Sweet Spot™ hummingbird feeder from Jacobi Jayne® at Amazon, which comes with its own cleaning brush, or Nature's Way's mason jar design.

I don't have time to regularly clean my feeder – how else can I attract hummingbirds?

It's true, using a hummingbird feeder responsibly means cleaning and refilling it often – and not everyone has the time to do so. Rather than risk harming these winged wonders, look to other ways to attract hummingbirds to your yard. Certain native spring flowers, types of trees, and even the color red can all help.

Are you looking for more troubleshooting advice on hummingbird feeders? If you need to know how to keep ants out of your feeder or even bees, we've rounded up practical tips to help. And if you're thinking of buying a hummingbird house to support these visitors even further, you'll definitely want to reconsider after reading our guide.

There is something very satisfying about plotting your herb garden ideas, but don't forget that many herbs grow splendidly in a window box, especially one sitting in a sunny spot. These six herbs will all make for happy bedfellows, and work together to create a beautiful planting palette, will burst with aroma and offer a range in color, height, and form, and aside from a little gentler intervention, are all, on the whole, fairly low maintenance and faff free. Perfect if you are planning for window boxes close to your kitchen garden.

Here, we look at six beautiful and utterly delicious herbs that grow well together, all worthy of a spot in your window box display.

1. Chives

One of the best plants to grow in a window box is the optimistic and never-failing chive. Even if your window box isn't strictly reserved for herbs, it should feature in your container gardening in some form; it's pretty, always aflutter with bees and butterflies, and most importantly perhaps, they're delicious.

Knowing how to grow chives is refreshingly straightforward and fuss-free. They're some of the easiest herbs to grow at home, so if you're planning a window box display or creating an herb garden, these pretty (and tasty) herbs should have a firm place on the roster.

You can grow chives from seed in early spring (if you have a greenhouse or propagator), but if you are planting in summer, it is worth buying them as plants, like this chive plant available at Burpee.

One of the keys to helping your chives flourish is to harvest chives from May until September to keep the plant productive, as it encourages new growth.

Chives can be used in a plethora of summer recipes, and the beautiful purple chive flowers, which look a little like scabious, are also wonderful for pollinators, and are equally as delicious when tossed through salads or roasted with chicken.

2. Marjoram

Naturally compact herbs, like marjoram, work well in all but the smallest window boxes. Marjoram is a beautiful herb, with bright acid acid-green leaves that look fantastic in the summer months. I grow it around my roses alongside Alchemilla mollis and catmint, and the zesty green of marjoram always gets the most compliments.

Marjoram flowers are very popular with bees and butterflies, and the flowers and leaves can be picked all throughout the summer, and are a mainstay in Mediterranean cooking, especially with tomato dishes and salads.

In zones 9 and above, marjoram is a perennial and can be left in the ground. In cooler areas, marjoram is an annual and may be potted up at the end of the season and placed in a sunny window indoors. You can keep plants trimmed by cutting the leaves throughout the growing season.

It is worth bearing in mind that some marjoram plants are grown as ornamental rather than edible plants, so if you wish to use them in your culinary creations, I recommend sweet marjoram, like these seeds available at Amazon, which can be eaten fresh, dried, or frozen for use in the winter.

3. Sage

In my opinion, no herb garden is complete without a sprawling mass of sage. You can buy sage as seeds or a plant, like this sage plant available at Burpee, and it's cut and come again, so you can keep cooking with it, and it will keep flourishing.

Sage is a Mediterranean native, so it will thrive in the same conditions as chives and marjoram; that is to say, none like to be overwatered and soggy, and all will be happy bedfellows. Sage can be grown in USDA hardiness zones 4-10, and it is a drought-tolerant herb that prefers drier soil.

Use a slow-release fertilizer in the soil during planting to help give the young plant a good start, like this garden food available at Nature Hills.

4. Chamomile

Knowing how to grow chamomile and implementing this beautifully aromatic herb into your garden will only result in one vexing issue: a strong feeling of 'why didn't I do this sooner?'

Chamomile can help neighboring plants increase their essential oils and improve the flavor and general health of the plants, so it is a particularly helpful neighbor for your other herbs in your window box. It produces pretty white flowers, smells heavenly, and is particularly suited to containers, since it tends to be unruly if planted inthe ground.

Of course, as chamomile is known for its soothing properties, you can make your own herbal tea using your homegrown chamomile, but the aesthetic and culinary reach of chamomile is far broader.

Dwarf varieties are best for window boxes, containers, or as border edgings. The main distinction to bear in mind is: German Chamomile is an annual, and Roman Chamomile is a perennial.

As such, I have always grown Roman Chamomile, like this Roman Chamomile available at Burpee. It thrives in small window boxes, loves sunny spots, and is delightful when added to summer jams, cakes, and even added to bath salts.

5. Rosemary

A herb window box would not be complete without the beautiful architectural shape and structure of rosemary. If you haven't grown rosemary before, rest assured, once you learn how to grow rosemary, you will be wanting to grow it all around your yard, so delicious is its fragrance and so fuss-free is its growing habit.

Rosemary, like all of these herbs, likes well-drained soil and to be positioned in a sunny spot. If you have a sun-drenched windowsill, rosemary, like all of these herbs, will be very content.

If you live in zone 6 or lower, you will need to bring rosemary indoors over winter; otherwise, it will remain outdoors without complaint and will maintain its wonderful scent and structure, so it can be used in winter cooking (hello, roast lamb!)

It is possible to grow rosemary from seed in the spring; however, germination takes a while and has a low success rate, so it is worth growing from a young plant, like this Rosemary available at Mountain Valley Growers.

6. Dill

Dill, Anethum graveolens, is a beautiful plant to add to window boxes; it has wonderful feathery leaves, which add a different texture and layer of visual interest (and would work wonderfully partnered with the other herbs on the list) it is a favorite of bees and butterflies, and is delightful in all kinds of fish recipes.

Dill flowers are bright yellow umbels, and they are friendly, smile-inducing flowers, reminiscent of summer.

Dill, like most herbs, grows best in the sun, so it is perfectly suited to a sunny windowsill. If overwatered, dill is susceptible to powdery mildew, so it is best to water lightly, as with all of its neighboring herbs.

Dill flavor is best when it starts to flower. The stems, leaves, flowers, and seeds are edible, so it is wonderfully giving in that respect.

There are many varieties of dill. I recommend a variety called ‘Bouquet'. It is very low maintenance and, since it is a dwarf variety, a good choice for growing in smaller containers, like a window box. Dill is very easy to grow from seed, like these dill seeds available at MI Gardener.

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The important thing to remember when choosing varieties of herbs to be planted together is to select herbs that favor similar conditions.

Many of these herbs would work wonderfully as indoor herb ideas, too, if you have room on sunny windowsills, many herbs will thrive.

Take prostrate rosemary or creeping juniper, both of which I’ve grown in public and private gardens across London. These evergreens are spreaders, producing a dense covering, and so doing a pretty good job of limiting wind-blown weed seeds from taking root.

So yes, I think these dense evergreens to stop weeds deserve a bit more credit. Are they foolproof? Of course not. A dandelion will always find a way. But that’s fine. This is about balance, not absolutism or perfection. Let the evergreens do the heavy lifting, and you can tinker with the remaining weeds if you so choose. Here are five of the best evergreen plants to stop weeds that I have grown, including tips on shaping and aftercare.

5 best evergreens to stop weeds

Wherever you live and whatever your US hardiness zone, you are bound to find several unwanted or unwelcome plants that always seem to find a way of germinating and growing.

So, if you are wondering how to stop your neighbors' weeds from invading your yard, or you want to take action this year to keep weeds out of flowerbeds, try growing one or more of these dense evergreens to stop weeds.

1. Illicium

If you are looking for native plants to stop weeds, try growing Illicium, a North American species that can help to fill flowerbeds with lush, dense foliage.

Of the native plant options, two really stand out to me. One is Illicium parviflorum 'Forest Green', which has unique pale lemon flowers, and will bloom in part-shade down to zone 7.

Live Illicium 'Forest Green' starter plants are available from Amazon.

The other is Illicium flodidanum, otherwise known as Florida anise. This evergreen shrub has leathery leaves and deep crimson spider-like blooms that can be seen in the image above.

'The maroon blooms as well as the fragrant, anise-scented foliage make Florida anise a valuable native,' says Lilly Anderson-Messec, plant expert and Director of North Florida programs for the Florida Native Plant Society.

Growing best from zone 7 or zone 8 plus, 'Florida Anise prefers dappled shade or partial sun,' Lilly says, 'but will grow fine in full shade, with a looser shape and possibly fewer flowers.'

They can grow to 10 feet or so in height and width, but generally, in backyard settings, they can be managed to maintain a compact, dense appearance that will fill borders and help prevent weeds from growing nearby.

'Unfortunately, the fruit of Florida anise is toxic if ingested,' Lilly adds, 'and cannot be used culinarily, so keep an eye on pets and children playing outside.'

Live Florida anise starter plants can be ordered now via Walmart.

2. Cotoneaster

Cotoneaster are a family of woody plants native to various regions in Asia, Europe, and North Africa.

While it will depend on the species, many are incredibly tough and can be grown as low as US hardiness zone 3.

They are some of the best evergreen shrubs that thrive on neglect, with little care needed so long as the soil and lighting requirements are met.

Cotoneaster shrubs tend to do best in full sun to dappled shade, and while they will grow in dry soil, for the best result, grow them in moist beds.

When happy, these are some of the best shrubs with winter berries, helping to add color and impact to borders in the depths of winter.

And, the best part? With a dense spread, this shrub will help to crowd out tricky and challenging borders, thereby reducing opportunities for weed growth.

For a low-growing evergreen option that will prove effective for weed suppression, try this 'Cranberry Cotoneaster' variety, with live plants available from Nature Hills.

3. Yew

'One of the best evergreens to stop weeds is yew,' says Alex Kantor, owner of Perfect Plants Nursery.

For one of the easiest evergreen shrubs, try this spreading yew, available from Perfect Plants, for a weed-suppressing green carpet in your yard.

'If you are landscaping with evergreens this year, then this hard-working, reliable and dense shrub is one to grow,' Alex continues. 'They aren't fussy, and will tolerate both full sun and deep shade.'

Yew, or Taxus, can be grown down to zone 4, and is one of the best plants for topiary, responding well to regular pruning, usually in late summer or early fall to maintain the desired form.

Yew domes are available to order from Walmart.

4. Inkberry

Inkberry holly, or Ilex glabra, is often used as a boxwood alternative, valued for its smooth, waxy evergreen leaves that will form dense canopies in garden beds.

Live inkberry plants can be ordered online via Amazon.

And, not only is this shrub good for providing year-round coverage and limiting weed growth, it is also remarkably resistant to pest attack, and is not typically munched by rabbits or deer.

Inkberry shrubs are also some of the best native ground cover plants to stop weeds, found growing in the wild along the eastern and southeastern United States, from Florida northward to Maine, growing best from zone 5 to zone 10.

In terms of placement, they can tolerate dappled shade as well as full sun. And, when considering maintenance, I would advise trimming lightly once a year in early spring, before new growth develops, which will help to keep the crown dense and limit bare soil and space for any wandering weeds.

For pruning your evergreens, I can highly recommend these Felco F-6 pruners, available to order from Walmart.

I have used Felco brand products on multiple occasions, and these long-lasting, high-performing pruners are well worth the hype.

5. Arborvitae

Arborvitae, otherwise known as thuja, is another one of the easiest evergreen trees and shrubs that can be used to limit weed growth in backyards.

These dense evergreens can be grown from zone 5 to zone 9, with a preference for full sun to part shade and well-draining soil.

Many varieties, including the infamous 'Green Giant', can grow upwards of 40 or even 50 feet, but choosing a more compact shrub-like variety is probably a better idea for most of us.

For example, this 'Fire Chief' thuja, with live plants available from Fast Growing Trees, will grow no taller than four feet and displays impressive spring and fall foliage.

And, with a dense habit, it is ideal for filling beds with lush greenery and keeping nettles and docks at bay.

FAQs

Is nandina one of the best evergreens to stop weeds?

Yes, nandina, or heavenly bamboo, can be grown in borders to limit weed growth. However, this vigorous evergreen is considered invasive in Texas and Florida, a result of its vigorous and spreading habit.

So, approach with caution, and consult your local government office to understand whether it is suitable for your region.

For small gardens, try growing a dwarf evergreen nandina variety, like 'Firepower', which will grow no taller than two or three feet.

'Firepower' live plants are available from Perfect Plants Nursery.

Whatever species you opt to grow, be sure to give a good, deep watering following planting, which will help to give them the best start during their first summer.

Following this, once your plants are established, many of these options will become self-sufficient, save for a little watering during dry spells.

For more information and ideas, see our guide on some of the best native perennials to stop weeds.

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If you've been battling how to get rid of aphids and it seems like a relentless process that requires lots of energy, you might just need to enlist the help of beneficial insects. These natural predators will eliminate aphids from your plants, and can even aid pollination in the process; a win-win.

So, if you're wondering what eats aphids and how to encourage them to your yard, keep reading. Here, I take a look at five common aphid predators.

5 beneficial insects that prey on aphids

As well as making a DIY aphid spray, it's worth making use of the natural predators that will do the job for you.

There are a few ways you can encourage them to your yard or, in cases of more serious infestation, you can even buy beneficial insects to introduce to your yard. Here are five examples of what eats aphids to get you started:

1. Ladybugs

Ladybugs are on top of the list of natural pest control methods. These cute little bugs are actually quite aggressive in the insect world, feeding on aphids, scale insects, whiteflies, mealybugs, and more.

'It is estimated that a single ladybug can eat up to 50 aphids per day, and thousands of aphids throughout their lifetime. They have a voracious appetite and a quick life cycle, with some species capable of multiple generations in a year,' says Homes & Gardens Gardens Content Editor Drew Swainston.

To attract ladybugs to your yard, opt for lots of pollen-rich plants for pollinators. You could even install a bug hotel (from Amazon) to provide shelter for them.

Alternatively, you can buy ladybugs to release in areas you have an aphid problem. For example, live ladybugs are available on Amazon.

2. Lacewings

Lacewing is an insect I was happy to spot on my zinnias recently as I had previously spotted a few green aphids on them. These beneficial insects have delicate wings that earn their name.

It's actually the lacewing larvae that feed on aphids, as well as mites, thrips, and other small insects. Meanwhile adult lacewings seek honeydew, pollen, and nectar.

You can encourage lacewings to your yard by growing nectar-rich plants. Some examples include growing lavender, growing butterfly bush, and growing coneflowers.

Once again, you can actually purchase lacewing larvae (from Amazon) as a pest control method.

3. Parasitic wasps

Another aphid predator to be aware of is parasitic wasps. They have a more gruesome approach to killing of aphids.

Parasitic wasps actually lay their eggs inside aphids by piercing them, essentially using them as a host. When the wasp larvae hatches, it feeds on aphids from the inside out.

They kill other pests using this process, too, including getting rid of whiteflies and scale insects.

Encourage a larger presence of parasitic wasps in a similar way to attracting bees, with lots of pollen-rich plants. Flowers that are small and open (such as Queen Anne's lace, from Burpee) are particularly good choices for these slender pollinators.

4. Hoverflies

Often mistaken for wasps (Hymenoptera family), hoverflies belong in an entire different insect family (Diptera). While adult hoverflies feed on nectar and pollen, hoverfly larvae preys on aphids and sometimes other insects, like spider mites.

'They consume aphids during their larval stage, where they consume hundreds of aphids to keep down pest populations. It may sound gruesome, but they are effective hunters as the larvae pierce the aphids and quickly suck out the juicier parts of the aphid’s body,' Drew explains.

The good news is, there are lots of ways to help hoverflies in your yard and attract a larger population for pest control.

Sweet alyssum (seeds from True Leaf Market), dill, and lavender are examples of plants hoverflies are particularly attracted to. You can also provide water by getting a bird bath, as pollinators also need to stay hydrated.

5. Aphid midge

This one may sound obvious on the list of what eats aphids, by aphid midges are essential beneficial insects when it comes to controlling aphids in your yard.

More specifically, and just like hoverflies and parasitic wasps, it's the aphid midge larvae that preys on aphids.

They do so by injecting a toxin into aphids to paralyze them before feeding on them.

Plants that attract aphid midges include dill, fennel (seeds for planting from Walmart), cosmos, and buckwheat.

FAQs

What is the fastest way to get rid of aphids?

The fastest way to get rid of aphids is physically removing them. You can do this by blasting infested plants with water and using homemade aphid sprays, for example, using dish soap. Introducing beneficial insects and aphid predators can effectively keep populations down going forward.

You can actually use beneficial insects to get rid of aphids on houseplants, too, but of course this means being comfortable with having the likes of ladybugs in your home. Alternatively, opt for beneficial nematodes (like these nematodes from Amazon), a microscopic pest predator more suited to indoor environments.

The truth is, a number of garden pests can be a burden at night when growing zinnias. Slugs, snails, and earwigs tend to be nocturnal and are often to blame, as well as moths that lay eggs, resulting in caterpillars. On the bright side, a few simple tricks can stop them in their tracks, keeping these beautiful bloomers protected.

I asked pest-control experts for their insights, and below, they share their advice. Whether you're growing zinnias for a flourishing cut flower garden or a vibrant container, these tips are sure to come in handy.

Hand-pick pests

Nicole Carpenter, president of Black Pest Prevention, says, 'The best natural way to keep your zinnias safe at night is to go out with a flashlight about 30 to 60 minutes after sunset and hand-pick slugs, snails, and earwigs.' Once collected, each one can be dropped into a jar of soapy water, which will kill them. 'It sounds old-school, but it works,' she says.

It's not a one-and-done solution, however – Nicole recommends doing it every evening for about a week or two to really knock down the pest population.

When hand-picking snails and slugs, it's important to wear protective gloves. As Dr. Tracy Ellis, an entomologist at FarmSense, explains, this is due to their potential for carrying human-infective nematodes called rat lungworm. Wear gloves if handling any earwigs you come across, too, as they can pinch or even bite when under threat.

Apply diatomaceous earth

For tackling slugs, earwigs, and cutworms, Brett Bennett, director of operations at Purcor Pest Solutions, recommends using diatomaceous earth.

Emma Grace Crumbley of Mosquito Squad Plus also suggests it, explaining how the fine powder dries out insects and cuts through their exoskeletons.

'Sprinkle it on the top of your soil around your zinnias and re-apply whenever it gets wet, because it doesn’t work when wet,' Brett says. Want to give it a go? You can shop for diatomaceous earth from Amazon.

Cover zinnias with netting

You'll also need to watch out for flying pests around your zinnias. Tracy explains that moths can fly into the flower bed to lay eggs, and these then develop into zinnia-eating caterpillars.

'These caterpillars are usually discovered too late as they have already reached a large size and have almost completed their feeding,' she says. Her recommended solution is to protect the flower bed from evening- and night-flying insects with garden netting. Try using this all-purpose garden fabric from Gardener's Supply Company at Amazon, for instance.

'Netting will also protect your zinnias from Japanese beetles and Asiatic garden beetles that may feed at night during the hot days of summer,' Tracy continues. Just remember to check under the net regularly, as Emma Grace notes – 'Smaller pests like mites caught under the net may continue to feed and go unnoticed.'

Try copper tape and cardboard collars

There are physical barriers you can put in place to deter creepy crawlies from your zinnias. For instance, Tracy suggests applying copper tape, which the snails and slugs will not cross, around plant beds. A layer of crushed eggshells or even coffee grounds spread around the base of your plants may also be effective.

Cutworms, a type of caterpillar that hide in the soil during the day, can be deterred by cardboard collars. As Tracy explains, these encircle the base of the plant one inch below and above the soil.

FAQs

How can watering affect zinnia pests?

Emma Grace notes how zinnia pests, like earwigs, slugs, and snails, like to find areas of high moisture and cover to hide in. With this in mind, she warns against overwatering, as too much moisture can attract them. 'Zinnias need to be watered regularly, but they are not as water-dependent as other flowering plants.'

Can you use slug bait to protect your zinnias?

Many slug baits can be harmful to other wildlife, pets, and the environment. However, you could consider one with the active ingredient of iron phosphate, such as Monterey Sluggo Slug and Snail Killer (available from Amazon), as Tracy suggests. When used according to label instructions, it's safe for pets and wildlife, and it's even suitable for organic gardening.

Alternatively, you could lay beer traps as a slug control method, which is an easy DIY solution.

Along with proper pest management in place, there are other ways to get the most from these summer-flowering favorites. The tips in our guide on how to keep zinnias blooming are definitely worth a spot on your to-do list, for instance. And, if you're adding zinnias to a mixed border, note there are certain plants to never grow alongside them.

A date palm tree can strike an imposing figure in any backyard. The slow-growing trees can grow as single or multi-stemmed plants and offer year-round interest with decorative fronds, spring flowers, and golden-brown fruits that can be eaten fresh or dried.

Date palms are most suited to hotter, drier climates, though there are still opportunities to grow the fruit trees in cooler zones. We look at where to grow a date palm tree and how to care for it properly, with growing tips from a tropical tree expert to help you have thriving trees and rich harvests of dates.

How to grow a date palm tree – an expert guide

The date palm (Phoenix dactylifera) is native to the Middle East and has played a historically important part in agriculture there and in North Africa. Nowadays, it is commonly grown in hot regions of Africa, Asia, Australasia, and southern North America.

Date palm trees are slow-growing yet can reach up to 100 feet in height, depending on the variety. They can provide structure in a garden and can be good trees for shade. Date palms are also highly ornamental with their long fronds and pale flowers in spring.

Those flowers are followed by the tree’s sweet, oval fruits that are rich in antioxidants and natural sugars, with one date palm tree capable of producing 150-300 pounds of fruit per season.

There are different types of date palm trees available to grow, and the most common varieties of date palm trees to grow include ‘medjool’, ‘deglet noor’, ‘fard’, or ‘barhi’. There are also compact types, such as the Pygmy Date Palm (Phoenix roebelenii), that are suitable for smaller spaces or containers.

The date palm tree is not classed as an aggressive or invasive species; however, the Canary Island date palm (Phoenix canariensis) is a close relative of the true date palm tree that has escaped cultivation in southern California and is considered an invasive plant.

Planting tips for date palm trees

It will come as little surprise to discover that date palms are most suited to warm tropical to subtropical climates. They love warm temperatures, but you can grow the fruit trees in pots in colder climates and bring them outside when the conditions are hot and sunny.

‘Date palm trees thrive in hot, dry conditions of US hardiness zones 9-11,’ says Tatiana Anderson from Top Tropicals.

‘Trees benefit from hot summers with temperatures up to 100°F and can tolerate light freezes once established,’ adds the tropical plant expert. ‘For successful growing and fruit production, date palms need plenty of sun - the more sun the better (at least 8 hours) for healthy growth and fruit production.’

It is vital to grow a date palm tree in well-draining soil, as they can struggle with too much moisture. Date palms also prefer a slightly acidic soil type. If you want to make the soil more acidic, you can add organic mulches of pine needles or oak leaves, or add sulfur to the soil.

The best time to plant a date palm is in fall or early spring. Pick a planting spot at least 20 feet from homes or other structures and dig a large hole to accommodate the root ball when planting a fruit tree.

Date palm trees are either male or female, and you need both to produce fruit. If you are planting multiple trees, space them 20-30 feet apart.

How to grow a date palm tree – care tips

• Watering - Date palms require regular watering while they are young. The soil should be kept consistently moist, but not soggy, as the tree gets established. Once set in their home, date palms are drought-tolerant fruit trees. However, they will still benefit from deep watering during fruiting to produce a good crop. Keep a close eye on when to water plants, and check the moisture levels a few inches under the soil surface. This can be done either with your fingers or a soil moisture meter, available at Walmart.
• Fertilizing - Date palm trees are hungry plants that will benefit from regular feeding, especially during their active growing season. Adding organic matter, such as compost or well-rotted manure, to the soil in late winter or early spring will help to enrich the soil. Tatiana Anderson recommends starting fertilizing the fruit trees in late February or early March before flowering. She adds: ‘You should try to fertilize date palms 3-4 times a year with a palm-specific or balanced slow-release fertilizer high in potassium and magnesium.’ It is advisable to feed when soil temperatures are above 70°F, apply the fertilizer to the canopy zone, and water it in well.
• Pruning - There is usually no need to prune a palm tree regularly as part of ongoing maintenance. Pruning a date palm mainly consists of trimming off old diseased or damaged fronds and removing suckers at the base of the tree. It can also be beneficial to thin clusters of fruit as they develop to help with ripening.
• Fruiting - Date palm trees start fruiting in late summer to fall. Tatiana recommends bagging the clusters to prevent birds from damaging them, and adds: ‘The fruits turn soft, golden brown, or dark when ready,’ she adds. ‘They should be plump and slightly sticky come harvest time’. The fruits do not ripen all at once, so regular checking and picking are required.

FAQs

How long does it take to grow dates?

How long date palm trees take to fruit depends on how you grow them. Plants grown from offshoots can take 4-8 years, while it can take over ten years for date palms cultivated from seed to start fruiting.

Can you grow dates from dried dates?

You can grow dates from dried dates by removing the stone from the date and washing it before planting it into a pot of seed compost. Place the pot on a sunny windowsill, somewhere where it can get temperatures of 70-75°F, and keep it moist for germination. A young plant wants to grow in full sunlight and be potted in larger containers before ultimately going outdoors. However, the drawbacks to growing dates from dates is there is no guarantee what type of tree it will grow into, and it can take ten years-plus to bear fruit.

Growing a palm tree is a great way to add drama and structure to any garden, provided the climate is right. These slow-growing tropical plants are low-maintenance and make focal points of any design for many years to come.

While palm trees tend to prefer hot summers and mild winters, some types can cope with low temperatures. For example, the Wagners Fan Palm (Trachycarpus wagnerianus) is one of the cold-hardiest palms and can tolerate temperatures as low as 5°F.

If you're hoping to attract fireflies to your yard, there are a few key tips and wildlife garden ideas to incorporate which will almost instantly increase your chances of welcoming the stunning species into your space.

Here, insect experts and a professional landscaper share their top tips and experience for attracting fireflies to a yard.

1. Turn off extra lights

Bright outdoor lighting ideas are one of the main disturbances to fireflies. Their harsh artificial illumination makes it harder for fireflies to see and communicate with one another through their own lights, known as bioluminescent signals.

By cutting out these lights altogether or switching off automatic timers so they don't flick on and off as fireflies get closer, your garden will instantly become a more inviting environment.

Ed Dolshun, vice president of business development at Catchmaster pest control, knows a lot about preventing insects from populating a person's yard. But in order to understand how to deter them, he's learned an abundance of information about what attracts them to begin with.

'Artificial lights confuse fireflies and interferes with their mating flashes, so the darker your yard is, the better your chances of seeing fireflies light up within it.'

Switching to a darker toned shaded light like the GLOBE amber glass wall sconce from Amazon or a more subtle one of the garden lighting trends will still enable you to see but is far less bright for your local firefly community.

2. Cut out pesticides

If you're hoping to attract fireflies to your yard but you're using heavy amounts of pesticides, it's unlikely that you'll be seeing them visit anytime soon.

Bryan Clayton, CEO of GreenPal, spent years working as a landscaper and helped a family to welcome fireflies into their yard. Focusing on cutting out pesticides was the second step they took together after limiting outdoor light use.

'[The client] had been using broad-spectrum sprays that not only get rid of mosquitoes but also everything else, including firefly larvae in the soil. We swapped in natural repellents for mosquitoes and let the ecosystem settle in,' he says.

3. Add plants of varying heights

Being surrounded by lots of plants is the dream habitat for groups of fireflies, especially if they are planted at varying heights. Think about it: when you've seen fireflies depicted in books or nature shows, you usually see them among a leafy forest without a perfectly manicured lawn.

By planting greenery at different levels, from trees to raised garden beds and beneficial ground cover plants, you'll be helping to emulate this less pristine environment where fireflies have layers in your yard to explore, breed and raise their young.

Nicole Carpenter, president of Black Pest Prevention, swears by the idea of layers for attracting fireflies to your yard. 'The more vertical variety, the better when it comes to fireflies. They love messy margins, places where trees and grass meet, and where there are some wilder-kept garden beds.

'Straight-edged, clipped landscapes are dead zones in the battle between lived-in vs manicured gardens, so if you're looking to attract fireflies to your yard, I recommend adding in grasses, shrubs, logs, and even trellises, to offer staging points.'

The panacea steel a-frame trellis from Walmart and the costway wooden vegetable raised garden bed, also from Walmart are two great ways to start adding more layers of greenery into your yard.

4. Create a firefly zone

Keeping some loose leaves and longer areas of lawn in your yard doesn't have to create an eyesore. In fact, why not purposefully aim to make it a feature and curate a firefly area in the garden? You don't need a large area.

Even just a corner purposefully kept a bit untamed will increase your odds of attracting fireflies to your yard while simultaneously embracing sustainable garden ideas.

'I encouraged my former client to let part of the yard go a little wild, leaving leaves and woody debris in a corner where fireflies could thrive,' says Bryan. 'The more natural you make your garden ideas, the more you'll encourage fireflies not just to visit, but to keep coming back.'

Ed seconds this, adding, 'If you want fireflies in your garden you will want to do less landscaping and clean up. One of the best things you can do is create a low-light, low-disturbance zone with ferns, grasses, or even leaf litter so fireflies can lay eggs and hide during the day.'

You can try garden zoning this area off if you wish to make it more distinct and purposeful. This decorative garden fence from Amazon joins together in separate sections, allowing you to choose and change the size of your designated area. You can also grow climbing plants on it to disguise it.

If you're looking to encourage more wildlife into your yard, adopting some of the best natural garden tips from professional gardeners will go a long way. From limiting pesticides to learning the importance of different kinds of greenery, your yard will become a thriving hub for all forms of life.

There’s one model I see on bestseller lists again and again: Grampa’s Weeder, available now via Amazon. Not only does it have a brilliant name, but this heritage tool (that has been around since 1913) has deservedly earned a bit of a cult following. What's more, over 75% of its Amazon reviews are five stars, which is impressive by any standard.

The best part? It’s gloriously simple. No crouching, no twisting, no back-breaking toil. Just a sturdy, clever design that actually works. It’s perfect for tackling dandelions, docks, thistles and other deep-rooted plants. Here, not only is this weeder type explained, but I also take a look at what the reviews have to say.

What are people saying about Grampa's Weeder?

Gardeners love this product, and not just for the nostalgic name. Many say they wish they’d found it sooner to get rid of weeds, especially those dealing with joint pain. And, for under $40, it is a smart investment that will last.

One Amazon reviewer stated that Grampa's Weeder is a 'dummy-proof tool that anyone can use' when dealing with invasive weeds.

Another reviewer, writing in June 2025, commented how impressed they were 'with this simple, yet very effective garden weeding tool,' going on to say that it 'prevents accidental hacking of the plants and flowers you want to keep,' instead targeting problem plants effectively without 'cutting the weeds in half.'

However, one four-star review, recorded in May 2025, stated that whilst 'this tool is very effective for long-term removal of small new growth dandelions with short taproots', it is 'not sufficient for long-term dandelion removal of large, established clumps.'

So, while there is a lot of praise for this product, it might not always be 100% effective in eradicating deep tap-roots, which may require a different approach, such as teasing the soil with a garden fork.

I really like the look of this highly-rated wooden garden fork from Ace Hardware, available via Walmart, which can be used to loosen soil and gently lift problem weeds, too.

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How to use a long-handled weeder

Grampa’s Weeder is an essential gardening tool for those with back or knee pain. It is designed with a long wooden handle that measures 45 inches to prevent any bending over or crouching down.

At the base of this pole, there is a clever claw-like metal head. You position this claw mechanism over the base of the weed, pushing it down into the soil with your foot, then tilt the handle back.

The claws close around the root as you lever it out of the soil (hopefully with the stem and root still intact).

Clean, quick and weirdly satisfying, as it avoids the common weeding mistake of snapping the tap-root. It really is that simple.

FAQs

Can I use Grampa's weeder on compacted soil or lawns?

Yes, although as is the case for all weeding, in my experience at least, moist, reasonably wet soil is best. If the ground is rock-hard or bone dry, as might be the case in warm US hardiness zones, you may want to wait until after a downpour to prevent any snapping of tap-roots, which is far more likely in dry soil.

If you are looking for natural solutions to prevent opportunistic dandelions from germinating in your plot, have you considered growing some native plants to stop weeds?

Think creeping phlox or yarrow, which will, over time, form dense clumps and reduce weed growth. Our guide on North American species has more information and ideas to try out this year.

It's often overlooked as a cottage garden plant, but nemesia's calming hues – I chose 'Amelie', made up of pastel pinks and purples – and flowers reminiscent of both snapdragons and wallflowers are the epitome of romantic, soft planting. You can, though, also opt for much bolder colors, such as 'Sunmesia Dark Red' or the deep purple-blue 'Lady Anne.'

No matter which variety captures your attention, I couldn't recommend nemesia enough. It's been performing excellently in my border so far, and it's likewise a favorite for pots. They also provide a long flowering season, typically from May to October, dazzling throughout summer. So, if this sounds like the perfect bloom for your yard, here are a few tips that have been helping me to grow nemesia in my garden:

Nemesia: Plant profile

Before jumping in with how to grow nemesia, there are a few considerations to keep in mind to ensure it's the right plant for your backyard.

Nemesia is native to South Africa, another reason I picked it up as a nod to my heritage. It is typically found along sandy coasts and disturbed ground in this region.

For this reason, it thrives in a sandy or loamy soil type, which I luckily have in the area of my garden where I have planted it. Generally speaking though, it will do well any well-draining soil.

And while you may assume it needs a hotter climate to grow well, nemesia can actually be grown across US hardiness zone 2 to US hardiness zone 10. This explains why it's doing so well in my milder south UK garden.

You may also want to take the size of this plant into account. Typically, nemesia has a height and spread between six and 18 inches, but there are some larger varieties that to 24 inches in height.

This makes them ideal for compact plants at the front of a border, filler plants for sparse flower beds, or additions to container gardens.

With these things in mind, follow the below tips to grow nemesia in your yard:

How to grow nemesia

• Soil: As mentioned, nemesia prefers a sandy or loamy soil, but the most important thing is that it's well-draining. So, if you're planning to grow nemesia in pots, opt for a potting soil full of materials that add drainage like perlite or vermiculite (like this Miracle-Gro potting soil from Amazon). Likewise, you can use rocks and pebbles to fill the bottom of a larger planter to add extra drainage for your nemesia.
• Light: I've planted my nemesia in a full sun position and ever since it has been blooming profusely. If you are planning to grow nemesia in the ground, choose somewhere it will get at least six hours of direct sun. Of course, if you grow nemesia in a container, you have the option to move it with the sun. If you're struggling to provide optimal sun exposure, try pruning surrounding tree branches and plants that may be blocking sun to your nemesia. To do this, use essential pruning tools (like this loppers from Amazon).
• Watering: As expected with its hot native habitat, nemesia is somewhat a drought-tolerant plant. But, they actually prefer to have consistently moist soil. During particularly hot days recently, I have noticed my nemesia looking a little droopy. After a deep watering, it perked up again. I use a watering can with a shower spout (like this one from Amazon) over a garden hose. I find it's much more gentle on my nemesia, ensuring its delicate flowers don't become damaged. To avoid overwatering, I also like to use this soil moisture meter from Amazon to first check my nemesia's soil. It only needs watering when the top couple of inches have dried out.
• Pruning: Due to having such a long flowering season (from spring to fall), it's wise to deadhead nemesia as blooms fade. Do this by using sharp pruning shears (from Amazon) to make a clean cut just above a leaf node. This will encourage new growth and repeat blooms. You can also cut back leggy foliage to encourage bushier growth. These plants are also sensitive to frost, which is why some gardeners choose to treat them as annuals. For this reason, if you're growing nemesia as perennials, it can be a good idea to cut them back in winter to just a couple of inches above the ground. You may also choose to transplant them into a pot to move to a sheltered location and protect these plants from frost. I plan to enlist the help of these frost-proof plant cloches from Amazon when the coldest season comes around.

FAQs

Does nemesia need fertilizing?

While nemesia does benefit from a balanced fertilizer (from Amazon), it isn't essential for its growth as it isn't a heavy-feeder. To encourage bigger and longer-lasting blooms, consider using a bloom boosting slow release fertilizer (from Amazon). If you do choose to fertilize nemesia, only do so during its active growth season in spring and summer. Avoid fertilizing mistakes by also taking note of the manufacturer's recommended frequency for the product you choose to use.

If you live in a colder climate, it can be wise to propagate nemesia to ensure it survives for next year. You can do this via seed or by taking plant cuttings. That way you'll have a new nemesia plant for your summer hanging baskets.

If you are wondering how to inherit a garden, have just relocated, or have a move coming up, you will probably have a rough idea of how you might want the garden to look or be used in the future. However, if you do not, that is not necessarily a bad thing, as there is no rush in most situations. Either way, these inspiring backyard ideas are sure to get you dreaming of what could be.

Having inherited several established gardens both as a homeowner and as a professional gardener, here is everything I found helpful when trying to decide what to keep or dig up, and even just where to start.

Advice from a professional when taking on a new garden

From my experience, most newly inherited garden owners fall into one of two camps: daunted and slightly overwhelmed, or excited and raring to go.

Whichever way you lean, here are my tips on how to inherit a new garden, from where to begin to planning for the future.

Wait a full year before making any changes

There is a strong temptation to quickly dig things up and plant up gaps when making your mark on a new garden. However, the old adage of waiting a whole year before making any changes to a new garden is not passed down through generations for no reason.

By waiting a full year, you will see your new backyard, landscape or patio through all the changing seasons and experience the joy of discovering any hidden bulbs and perennials come spring.

By waiting a year, you will also discover your new garden's seasonal highlights and any potential problems that need considering, such as being in a frost hollow, wind tunnels, drainage issues leading to a waterlogged lawn, or a ravenous deer and rabbit population. Either way, waiting 12 months and making notes as you go to refer to is best if you want to get the full picture.

Nevertheless, with children or pets in tow, it is always prudent to check whether the garden is secure and its boundaries are intact before moving day. The last thing anyone wants as they begin to unpack boxes is to find out that they need to urgently repair a hole in the fence.

From my own experience, having inherited a mature garden which was almost completely devoid of any color, I was desperate to add some plants to fill the gaps and make it a more inviting place, even for the short term.

Depending on the time of year, planting some fast-growing annuals in bare beds or containers can provide some instant color and interest and make the space more appealing while you make a plan for the future.

Get to know your soil

One key factor when inheriting a new garden is ascertaining the soil type and pH, as this will determine what will grow well or not.

You can get a fairly good idea of whether the soil is acidic or alkaline from the plants already growing in the garden. For example, if there are lots of thriving rhododendrons and azaleas, you can be pretty sure that the soil is on the acidic side.

However, using a pH meter such as this ‘Garden Tutor soil pH test kit from Amazon’ at multiple sites around your new garden will give you a more comprehensive understanding.

Along with discovering the soil's pH, now is also a good time to find out whether the garden is on sand, silt or clay and decide if the soil needs improving. A task ideally best done before planting up a new border.

Get to know your plants and shrubs

Through living with your newly inherited garden for a while, you will also see which plants appear to be thriving and which are not. If struggling, this might simply be because they have been planted in the wrong place or are not suitable for the soil, and can be moved to another spot or dug up and composted at a later date.

Most of us tend to have our favorite plants and shrubs and those we dislike for one reason or another. But instead of purely deciding if something looks good or not, it can be prudent to consider if it performs a function as well. For example, does it support the local wildlife or add any necessary height and structure to the landscape?

Now is also a good moment to assess if any neglected shrubs would benefit from rejuvenation pruning, a step worth trying before potentially digging anything up. From experience, I have learnt the hard way through rashly digging up a large shrub I didn’t particularly like, only to find out that it protected the seating area from cold northerly winds.

Getting to know your new garden also includes any annual or perennial weeds that might appear and assessing if there are any invasive weeds present that need eliminating?

Moving home in the fall or winter, when perennials are dormant, might mean that any lurking bindweed or purple loosestrife is not evident and it is only by observing your newly inherited garden over the first year that any potential problems like this may become apparent.

I know only too well the disappointment of rushing to plant up a new border in late winter, only to find that the area was infested with ground elder when it regrew later that spring.

Furthermore, I would suggest checking the condition of any trees and hedges you may have inherited, as if any need to be removed due to damage, disease or safety concerns, then this should be carried out promptly.

Removing a large tree is often a big undertaking, potentially damaging other parts of the garden and can alter the characteristics of the garden as a whole.

Once you have become accustomed to your new garden's plants and shrubs over the seasons, you can prioritise what needs to be done, including scheduling the best time of year for transplanting and pruning.

A seasonal plan can not only act as a timely reminder of what needs doing, but also help break down larger projects into more manageable chunks.

Discover how you use your newly inherited garden

Over the first year in your new garden, you will also discover how you and any other family members and pets tend to use it. You may find a favourite spot or vista for a morning coffee or evening drink that would benefit from a small deck or patio to place a table and chairs.

Or, if you have children, is the lawn flat and big enough for a game of soccer or a jungle gym, or could it do with being levelled or enlarged? Perhaps you would like to start a vegetable garden or plan a cut flower patch and need to decide where the best place for this or a greenhouse is?

Depending on your location and US hardiness zone, you may find that you need to provide more shade for the summer months or protection from any prevailing winds. Privacy and screening are other areas that might need considering, for which a well-placed new tree or hedge could provide.

Again, depending on your location, does the garden require a lot of watering in the summer? If so, are there spigots in the right places, or does a new water pipe need to be laid?

These factors might change over your time at the property, but it is often recommended that any hard landscaping is carried out first, as it often has an impact on any existing and future planting.

Planning for the future

Whether subtly enhancing the garden as it is or if you are wanting to create a new zone or style, you now know the ‘lay of the land’ and will have a better idea of what, if any, hard landscaping is required and what plants and shrubs might be worth keeping, moving or digging up and getting rid of.

By knowing what style of garden you would like to create, be it a cottage garden style or a more modern or minimalist garden, you can then decide which existing plants and shrubs will add to or detract from your chosen design. If you are unsure where to begin, our specialist article on how to plan a garden is full of expert tips and advice.

Either way, a garden takes time and there is often no rush, so take the pressure off and enjoy the process. Your garden is an extension of your home and should, where possible, bring you joy and contribute to your well-being.

New construction homes tend to have a rectangular-shaped backyard, but older properties and corner plots can be more challenging to design.

If you have inherited an awkward-shaped backyard, you may need to think carefully about how you can best use the space and make it work for you. If it is long and narrow, L-shaped or maybe even sloping, you can use these characteristics to your advantage and create a really unique garden.

Tomato leaf curl is a common issue among growers worldwide. It can result from various factors, including weather, watering issues, pests, diseases, and nutrient deficiencies. The good news is that most cases can be easily prevented or treated, especially when identified quickly.

When you are growing tomatoes and see leaves curling, don’t get too disheartened. This guide examines the common causes of tomato leaf curl and provides simple solutions for addressing these issues.

What is tomato leaf curl?

Tomato leaf curl is where the foliage on plants curls inward as a result of some environmental or physiological problem. The problem often starts on the oldest leaves, and it can be a worrying sight for tomato growers.

Tomato leaf curl is a sure-fire indication that something is not right with the plants, though it does not signal the death knell for tomato plants. It does mean it's time to identify the cause of the issue and put measures in place to rectify it, so your tomato harvest is not ruined.

The common causes of tomato leaf curl, and how to fix it

Below, we outline some of the most common causes of tomato leaf curl, along with what you can do to fix the problem.

1. Problems with watering

Tomatoes like consistently moist soil throughout the season, and a lack of water can cause plants to curl their foliage as they desperately try to conserve water, especially during warmer periods. Drying out is especially a risk when you grow tomatoes in pots.

At the other end of the scale, overwatering plants can also cause leaf curl. As well as curling, tomato leaves turning yellow is another tell-tale sign of excess moisture in the soil.

Consistency is key with watering tomatoes. This includes regularly checking the moisture levels in the soil, and deep watering rather than a little and often approach.

One effective way to achieve this consistency is by using a soil moisture meter to check the moisture levels beneath the surface. A meter like this soil moisture meter at Amazon can provide quick readings to help you confidently determine when to water plants.

Mulching around plants is also a recommended method of retaining more moisture in the soil and preventing it from drying out too quickly.

2. Temperature issues

Every gardener knows that tomato plants like growing in a warm, sunny spot. However, the plants can suffer from stress during periods of warmth when temperatures are regularly over 90°F.

As a reaction to such high temperatures, they curl their leaves to conserve water. Reducing the surface area means less transpiration, as the plant tries to hold onto the moisture it has.

In warmer climates, it may be beneficial to plant tomatoes in a spot that gets afternoon shade to protect them from the scorching temperatures.

Alternatively, move plants out of direct sunlight if they are in pots or use shade cloth to provide plants with cover from intense sunlight. Choose a cloth like this 40% shade cloth available at Walmart, as a fabric that is too thick will decrease the sunlight too much for tomatoes.

Tomato plants also dislike cold, and that can cause leaves to curl, too. If temperatures drop below 54°F, the leaves can curl inwards as a protective measure.

It is key not to plant tomatoes outdoors too early in spring; wait until the temperatures rise. And to always harden off plants to get them accustomed to outdoor temperatures for a few weeks before planting.

If you are growing tomatoes in windy sites, giving them a protected spot is beneficial, as cold winds can scorch the edges of leaves and cause them to curl.

3. Pest or disease problems

Tomato leaf curl can often be due to environmental stressors, but not always.

There are tomato pests that cause tomato leaf curl, including aphids, whiteflies, thrips, spider mites, and broad mites. Sap-sucking pests feast on leaves and stems, and can commonly be seen clustered on the underside of leaves.

If you have spider mites, whiteflies, or aphids on tomato plants, they can be removed with a jet of water or sprayed with insecticidal soap (like this ready-to-use insecticidal soap at Walmart). Using tomato companion plants can also repel pests or attract beneficial natural predators to eat pests.

Another downside to pests is that they can spread tomato diseases. And some problematic viral diseases include curling leaves among their symptoms. These include leaf spot, mosaic virus, and tomato yellow leaf curl virus.

It is advisable to look for disease-resistant tomato varieties and always use sterilized and sharp pruning shears whenever you prune tomato plants, as diseases can be transmitted from plant to plant by dirty tools.

Taking as many precautions as possible against diseases helps because, unfortunately, the recommended route for plants with viral diseases is to remove them to prevent the spread. Affected plants need to be properly disposed of and never used to make compost.

4. A lack of nutrition

Tomatoes are hungry plants that require lots of nutrients to grow and produce fruit throughout the season. Regularly fertilizing tomatoes is the best way to supply these essential nutrients. When the plants are deficient, it can mean the leaves start to curl.

Plants with an excess of nitrogen will produce too much foliage, making it unsustainable for the plant to support all this lush growth and causing the leaves to curl. On the other hand, a lack of potassium or phosphorus can often manifest itself in stunted growth or curling leaves.

To get to the bottom of the cause, conducting a soil test will identify a lack or excess of any nutrients. A simple soil test kit, like this one at Amazon, can give professional analysis on 13 nutrient levels in the soil.

A specially formulated fertilizer for tomatoes is often the best course of action, though there are options if you want to make your own tomato fertilizer.

FAQs

How do you tell if tomatoes are overwatered?

When it comes to how much water tomato plants need, they generally need about an inch or two of water weekly. However, this can vary depending on the weather, rainfall, and whether the plants are in the ground, raised beds, or containers.

Overwatered tomato plants can wilt, droop, and have yellow leaves. In addition, the fruit can crack or split, and there may be green mold on the soil surface due to excess moisture.

As well as tomato leaf curl, another unwanted sight will be tomato plants not fruiting. There may be occurrences when you get flowers, but no fruits, as blossom drop can occur before the flowers are pollinated.

Causes of blossom drop include temperatures being too high or too cold, or excess nitrogen in the soil. If your plants suffer from a lack of pollination, you can try ‘tomato tapping’ and shake plants to distribute pollen from flower to flower, or you can hand-pollinate plants and move pollen with cotton swabs or a toothbrush.

One issue that stands out in particular is Eastern vs Western gray squirrels. The former has become an increasing and aggressive threat to the latter.

If you're already familiar with this situation, you may have adopted efforts to get rid of squirrels. But, it's important to correctly distinguish Eastern vs Western grays. And know how to protect native Western grays, for your efforts to be effective. Here is what you can do to help protect them, and to be sure you know the difference between the two.

Eastern vs Western gray squirrels: what's the difference?

The problem first arose when Eastern grays (Sciurus carolinensis) were introduced to Western states in the early 1900s, and have since been outcompeting Western grays (Sciurus griseus) for food and habitat. Resultingly, Eastern grays are now recognized as invasive in Washington, Oregon, California, and Idaho, although concerning numbers exist in other Western states, too.

At first glance, it can be hard to determine Eastern vs Western gray squirrels because they have a similar appearance. But, there are a few giveaways to look out for when trying to identify which are visiting your yard.

Differences in appearance

Eastern grays tend to be smaller, with a flatter less fluffy tail. Western grays by comparison are larger and have bushy tails. Eastern grays also tend to have hints of brown among their gray fur, while Western grays are much more obviously gray, often with white-frosted edges on their tails.

You can also look at a squirrel's belly to identify which one it is: Western grays have pure white fur, while Eastern grays have white-ish, variable coloring on their belly.

'[Western gray squirrels] also have prominent ears, which can be reddish-brown on the back in winter. This occasional small patch of brown is only visible upon close inspection and is the only part of the squirrel that may have any brown,' describes the Washington Department of Fish and Wildlife(WDFW).

Eastern grays rather have small, rounded ears without any tufts of fur.

'Western gray squirrels are often confused with introduced Eastern gray squirrels that are increasingly common in Washington’ urban areas. The Western gray squirrel's large size, bushy tail, and gray fur lacking any brown on the body or tail are keys to distinguishing it from other tree squirrels in Washington,' the WDFW adds.

What makes Eastern grays a threat?

Western grays have been threatened by Eastern grays ever since their introduction to Western states in the early 1900s. A 2024 study in the Journal of Mammalogy identified a continued decline in the number of Western grays living in human-dominated areas, naming the presence of Eastern grays as one of the driving factors.

This is largely due to the adaptability of Eastern grays to Western grays' habitat.

Western grays prefer oak and pine trees, and are found along the Western coast of the US, primarily Washington, California, and Oregon. Eastern grays, on the other hand, are highly adaptable to urban, suburban, and rural environments, and are therefore able to easily take up residence in the forest habitat of Western grays, pushing them out.

A 2011 study by the University of Washington even found Eastern grays were displacing Western grays from shared riparian areas. It states that Easterns were limiting the available habitat for Westerns overall.

As for food sources, the two squirrels also have an overlapping diet:

'Nuts and acorns are a staple of the [Eastern] gray squirrel’s diet, but they also feed on seeds, fruits, mushrooms, tree buds, and blooms,' says the North California Wildlife Commission.

The reason Western grays are struggling to compete for food and shelter is down to behavioural factors. Eastern grays are thought to be much more aggressive and dominant, while Western grays are much more timid and can become easily displaced.

Not only this, Western grays are becoming physically outnumbered by Eastern grays' more frequent reproduction rate (usually two breeding seasons in a year).

These factors have contributed to Western grays becoming a protected species and even being named as endangered in Washington in 2023. They also continue to be a vulnerable species in other states.

How to protect Western grays from Eastern grays

While eradicating the threat to Western grays requires large-scale action (such as these conservation efforts from the Washington Department of Fish and Wildlife), there are some things home gardeners can do to help these squirrels out.

Focus on introducing native planting, especially trees and shrubs, to provide Western grays with food and shelter. In particular, oak trees (like this white oak tree from Fast Growing Trees) and shrubs with berries (like elderberry shrubs from Nature Hills), are good choices.

You can even try growing an oak tree from an acorn. Use this acorn oak tree kit from Amazon to get you started.

To add further shelter, install a squirrel nest box (like this one from Amazon) on a tree in your yard.

Another way to protect Western grays is by not directly feeding squirrels (it's likely to attract Eastern grays to your yard), and use methods to keep squirrels away from bird feeders. Use this baffle from Amazon to make it more tricky for squirrels to eat from bird feeders, for example.

You can also help government conservation efforts by reporting sightings of Eastern grays. For example, the WDFW is closely monitoring their population and be contacted via their website.

FAQs

Are you allowed to trap Eastern gray squirrels?

Whether you can trap an Eastern gray squirrel depends on local regulations. They're considered invasive in a few states, including California, Oregon, and Washington, all of which allow for trapping to some extent. However, there are some guidelines in place. For example, in Washington, you can use a live box trap (from Amazon) without a special permit, but you can't trap and kill Eastern grays without a hunting license. For this reason, it's important to research the regulations for the area you're in before attempting to trap squirrels.

There are lots of ways Eastern grays are threatening Western grays in some US states, which is why there are conservation efforts in place. If both Eastern and Western grays are causing mayhem in your yard, there are a few humane deterrents you can use. For example, use cayenne pepper to deter squirrels, or these wire cloches from Amazon to stop them digging up bulbs.

Shop squirrel control essentials for your yard

Happily, knowing how to grow verbena requires very little effort or exertion from the typical gardener. Verbena, in its many varieties, is refreshingly easy to grow, and if you're on the hunt for faff free low maintenance garden border ideas, then verbena, particularly the tall and handsome Verbena bonariensis, with its strongly architectural skeleton, should be top of your list. Verbena grows vigorously, and once its flowers begin to fade, the age-old question is inevitably asked: to deadhead or not to deadhead?

Here, we demystify the deadheading verbena debate and, should you feel deadheading verbena is right for your plants and your yard, we explain how to do this in simple steps.

Which varieties of verbena to deadhead

The simple answer is that it entirely depends on which variety of verbena you have, but on the whole, most perennial verbena varieties will flower all summer long right up to the first frosts, so it is not essential.

Some varieties of verbena will benefit from being deadheaded, and will flower for longer and more profusely if you do so. Those verbena varieties that should be deadheaded are:

Trailing verbena. Trailing varieties not only benefit from being deadheaded to produce more blooms, but they also tend to get a bit too leggy, so snipping them back keeps them healthier and able to focus their energy on flowering.

All annual verbena varieties. Deadheading will promote bushier growth and more flowers. If they're left and not deadheaded, plants can look tatty and tired. Once the flowers are spent, deadhead throughout the entire growing season.

Most other verbena varieties do not need to be deadheaded to produce more flowers. However, many like to deadhead verbena for aesthetic reasons - to keep their garden looking tidy and orderly.

If you like a more pared-back, minimal aesthetic, then it is likely you will be reaching for the scissors when those perky flowerheads start to look sloppy. In which case, rest assured, deadheading your verbena throughout the summer will only serve as a boon to your verbena plant, and it will resume its season of blazing glory.

If you prefer a more ethereal, blowsy, unmanicured aesthetic, then it might be worth leaving your verbena to its own devices. Deadheading verbena prevents it from self-seeding, attracting valuable wildlife to your garden, supporting insect life, and fulfilling its life cycle.

When to deadhead verbena

If you decide that you want to deadhead your verbena, it will only flourish as a result. The best time to deadhead verbena is when the first wave of flowers begins to fade away at the start of the summer.

If you don't deadhead when the first flush of blooms is fading, some verbena varieties will focus their energy on producing seeds to reproduce, and will not concern themselves with creating new flowers.

With this in mind, if you are keen to have an abundance of blooms throughout the entirety of summer, deadheading once the first flush of flowers begins to dwindle will prolong the flowering period.

You can deadhead verbena throughout the summer months, but after deadheading early in the summer, it isn't necessary to do so again, and they will continue to flower right up to the first frost.

However, if your upright verbenas are becoming too lofty and beginning to buckle under their weight, they can be trimmed back at any point in summer, and won't suffer one bit from it; they will simply continue to flower beautifully, but at a less intimidating height.

How to deadhead verbena

Deadheading verbena couldn't be more straightforward.

Check your verbena flowers are over (you don't want to lop off happy and healthy flowers). The flowers will look faded, limp, and dull. This means they are ready to be removed, and new flowers can emerge.

As ever, ensure your gardening shears or snips are clean. One of the most common deadheading mistakes is to skip this step and accidentally transfer disease to all of your plants.

Use your gardening snips or secateurs to cut off the upper section of the plants. Go easy on your verbena, and don't snip off more than one-third of the plant. Simply snip at the stem just behind the spent flower - no further down.

Leave the plant to its own devices, ensuring it is watered and fed as appropriate, and soon you will see new buds appear.

Shop deadheading essentials

It's worth also considering growing verbena from seed, as it is extremely straightforward and cost-effective. Just be sure to bear in mind that there are over 200 species of verbena, and many of them have different growing preferences specific to the climate found in different US hardiness zones.

If growing from seed sounds like too much hard work, and I for one am inclined to steer clear of growing from seed due to lack of space, time and patience, it is however well worth learning how to take verbena cuttings, as this will essentially give you lots more free verbena plants with no trips to the garden center necessary.

When planting in chalky soils first establish how deep the topsoil is. A lot depends on whether or not there is some clay present in chalky soil, as this generally means there will be more nutrients and greater moisture content available so more plants will thrive. Alternatively if your soil is very chalky it's better to choose from a more limited selection of plants that thrive in alkaline conditions.

Ahead of choosing any plants for the garden it's always a good idea to check out soil types to establish what conditions you're working with. If in doubt it's worth doing a soil test to get the complete picture. Chalky soil is less common than clay and sandy soils but the good news is there are still plenty of plants that will thrive in these conditions.

10 of the best plants for chalky soil

Chalky soil will happily accommodate a range of flowers, shrubs and trees as long as you improve the soil health by digging in plenty of organic matter to boost the moisture-retaining ability. If you want to play safe choose plants that thrive in alkaline conditions, such as lavender, lilac and honeysuckle.

'Chalk and limestone derive from the shells and bones of ancient creatures that fell to the bottom of seas aeons ago, and under the weight of time and geological processes have become deposits of calcium carbonate in the soil,' explains UK-based soil expert Juliet Sargeant, whose new book Start with Soil is available at Amazon.

'The calcium carbonate makes the soil alkaline and if it's present in chunks, you will see bits of white chalk in the soil. The structure and texture of chalky soils is very variable, depending on the form that the chalk takes and whether there is also clay present.'

'Chalky soil is relatively uncommon in the United States (at least compared to our friends in the UK), but you may be familiar with this challenging soil type if you’re gardening in parts of Texas or on the Great Plains,' says Florida-based master gardener Jon VanZile, author of The Flower Garden Deck, available at Amazon.

'In general, chalky soil is alkaline (high pH) and contains high levels of calcium carbonate or lime. It tends to dry quickly in the sun and doesn’t retain nutrients very well. Because it's so alkaline, it’s not suitable for acid-loving plants, so you’ll want to avoid azaleas, rhododendron, and blue-tinged hydrangeas.'

1. Lavender

'Even though chalky soil is not as common as clay soil or sandy soil, for example, the good news is there are still plenty of beautiful plants to choose from,' says Jon VanZile. 'One of my favorites for this situation is lavender.'

The slender stems of lavender topped with clusters of tiny purple flowers add a touch of beauty to any garden. They will love the free-draining conditions provided by chalky soils. This hardy plant likes growing in warm, sunny climates and is the star of Mediterranean garden ideas, especially as it's drought-tolerant once established.

It's an easy-care choice that will adapt and thrive with whatever chalky soil throws at it. Most lavender varieties flourish in USDA zones 5-9. Jon advises pruning annually to maintain the shape and vigor of your plants.

Try growing lavender for flower bed ideas or as a low hedge to create different planting zones. Make sure you are familiar with the basics of how to grow lavender as well as the best lavender varieties, and you'll soon be wondering why you haven't filled your garden with it before now.

2. Achillea

'Species achilleas (or yarrows) are native to chalk grasslands, so cultivars do well on chalk or any well-drained soil,' says Juliet Sargeant. 'They are ideal for cottage gardens and also prairie-style plantings with ornamental grasses.'

Judith suggests trying the cultivar Achillea ‘Desert Eve Terracotta’, a long-flowering perennial blooming from May–July, with flat-topped clusters of rich terracotta flowers, fading to creamy yellow. This variety is hardy in USDA zones 3-9.

We also love the butterfly magnet Achillea 'Sunny Seduction', available from Nature Hills. Find out how to grow common yarrow so you can add this beauty to your chalky soil planting ideas too.

3. Rosemary

This aromatic, sun-loving Mediterranean herb has a lovely woody fragrance that is a fantastic addition to any garden planting scheme, and is one of the best plants for chalky soil as it loves a gritty, free-draining growing medium and can thrive without water.

Find out how to grow rosemary, such as the importance of choosing a sunny, sheltered spot to get the best results, to add this evergreen staple to your herb garden.

It's also worth knowing that this was recently reclassified as Salvia rosmarinus in case of any confusion at the garden center.

4. Globe thistle

'Another one of the best plants for chalky soil is Echinops ritro (also known as globe thistle),' says Jon. 'Hardy in USDA zones 3-9, it likes full sun and tolerates dry soil well, making it an excellent choice for drought-tolerant planting too.'

Jon recommends deadheading to encourage prolonged blooming, as well as cutting back stems in late fall or early spring. Echinops is also a good choice for wildlife gardens as it's an important source of nectar for pollinators like butterflies. Find Echinops ritro here at Nature Hills.

Choose this plant if your soil is dry and nutrient-poor, especially if you live in a hot and dry climate. You will be rewarded from June to September with plenty of gorgeous spiky blue balls that can grow up to 5 feet tall.

5. Chocolate vine

Also known as Akebia quinata, this vigorous and very pretty twining vine is covered with clusters of deep burgundy, scented flowers that have a spicy fragrance with just a hint of vanilla. This is a great choice if you have chalky soil and you're looking for the best fast-growing climbing plants.

These easy vines can grow up to 20 feet tall, which makes them a good choice for projects such as a tall wall or the side of a house where you're looking for height. Grow them in zones 5-9 for quick cover, especially if you live in a warmer region. Find chocolate vine here at Amazon.

Other climbers that work well for chalky soils include Virginia creeper, clematis, star jasmine, and honeysuckle.

6. California lilac

This fast-growing evergreen has bright green glossy foliage and panicles of rich lilac-blue flowers from late spring throughout summer. A hardy and ornamental West Coast native, this is a great choice to add to your garden landscaping ideas if you have chalky soil as they can be grown as either a shrub or a multi-stemmed tree.

Chalky soil isn't a problem as California lilac grows in some of the harshest locations, and thrives in zones 7-10. They tolerate poor soil, coastal conditions, and full baking sun all day.

They will also attract birds, butterflies and bees in spring and summer, making them a great choice for wildlife garden ideas.

Also known as Ceanothus, once established this variety needs very little care other than light pruning once a year.

7. Weigela

If you're looking for the best flowering shrubs for chalky soil, one of Juliet Sargeant's favorite varieties is Weigela ‘Florida variegata’ (pictured above). 'A deciduous arching shrub with variegated leaves, this has pink trumpet flowers in May/June,' says Juliet.

'It's a classic ‘English cottage garden’ shrub, which is invaluable for plugging the early spring gap in flower color.'

Growing to a height of around 8 feet, this easy to grow shrub likes moist but well-drained soil in sun or partial shade, and tolerates chalky conditions well.

Growing in zones 4-8, this variety will add height and spread at a decent pace, up to 24 inches a year, to fill out your landscaping design beautifully.

8. Crab apple tree

Find out how to plant crab apple trees in your yard and it's one decision you won't regret. These beautiful ornamental trees offer four seasons of interest and the good news is they won't be phased by chalky soil conditions either. Thriving in zones 4-8, once established they show a good level of drought resistance too.

Offering clouds of fragrant spring blossom, a cooling summer leaf canopy, fruit and colorful foliage in fall, and shapely structure in winter, crab apple trees really are a year-round asset in the garden.

Crab apple trees make it on to our list of the best trees for small gardens too, as they're a go-to if you're looking for an easy medium-sized tree to add to your landscape. Take a look at our guide to the best trees for sandy soil too.

9. Japanese maple

Many varieties of Japanese maple trees thrive in chalky soil conditions, particularly Acer campestre (field maple). When you're at the garden center look for labels marked Acer pseudoplatanus and Acer platanoides if you're looking for a variety that will do well in chalky soil.

One of the best varieties of maple for chalky soil is Acer platanoides 'Princeton Gold' (pictured above) with its striking golden spring and summer foliage making it an excellent ornamental tree. Japanese maples are one of the best trees for fall color too.

Most Japanese maples do well in zones 5-8. They can be grown in warmer zones, but may suffer from leaf scorch in hot weather.

10. Agapanthus

If you love big, bold plants that offer showy good looks and color then try agapanthus, which is one of the best plants for chalky soil. This stunning tall-stemmed perennial features multiple spikes with large globes of blue flowers (you can also get white and pink varieties) from July through to September above clumps of shapely mid-green leaves.

Choose the sunniest spot possible for these tropical beauties, which love warmth and being bathed in sunshine.

Agapanthus is one of the best summer-flowering bulbs for Southern gardens, and grows best in USDA hardiness zones 9-11. They thrive in well-drained soil, so chalky conditions are ideal.

Interestingly they are also one of the best fire-resistant plants. This is because their leaves are filled with a water-based gel, so they can catch wind-blown embers and help slow or even stop the spread of low-burning fires.

So that's our expert selection of the best plants for chalky soil. If you want to find out more about plants for specific soil conditions, we have expert guides to the best plants for sandy soil, the best plants for clay soil, and the best plants for loamy soil.

The Salvia plant family is vast, with some botanists and horticulturists estimating there are possibly 3,000 species growing worldwide. And, with so many options, you are sure to find one suited to your tastes and climate. Fortunately for us, many are perfect for pot-growing, including the classic purple-blue Salvia nemorosa ‘Caradonna’, as well as the taller Salvia ‘Amistad’, which has regal, violet flowers that hum with pollinators all summer long.

So, if you want easy, vibrant color for a sunny patio or balcony, a good salvia display is near impossible to beat. I think these are some of the best perennials: dependable, low-fuss and beloved by bees. What’s not to like? Here's everything I know about this impressive species.

How to grow salvia in pots

Learning how to grow salvia in pots is pretty straightforward, and these are largely perennials that thrive on neglect, so long as they enjoy plenty of sunshine and have a drink of water every few days.

Here are my tips to guarantee long-lasting blooms that return year after year.

Growing and caring for salvia in pots

If you are learning how to grow salvia in pots for the first time, the most important thing to remember is drainage. Believe me, they hate sitting in soggy, waterlogged soil, especially if you are trying your hand with some of the Mediterranean varieties.

So, when choosing a small to medium-sized pot (10 to 12 inches in diameter), make sure it has a drainage hole, and place broken shards (or crock) at the base to prevent the soil from clogging it up.

I like the look of these rustic, rounded terracotta pots, available from Amazon, which would work well when planted with pink and purple salvias.

Next, using something like this organic potting soil from Whitney Farms, available at Walmart, fill your pots, combining the mix with some horticultural grit for a little extra drainage.

While you can plant salvias at any time, in my opinion, spring or early summer is ideal to give the plants a chance to grow before the weather ramps up around midsummer.

In terms of placement, if you live in a cooler region, such as zone 5, position your salvia in full sun. I recommend providing them with at least six hours a day. South or west-facing is ideal, especially for varieties like ‘Amistad’, which will sulk in shade.

However, in warmer areas, such as zone 9, you can get away with a part-sun-part-shade location, so long as they enjoy a decent amount of morning sunshine.

In terms of care, deep watering is best, especially in the first few weeks, soaking your pots with a full can of water. I usually touch the soil, pushing an inch or so down, to ascertain how damp or dry the soil is. In high summer, around July and August, you might be watering once a day.

Feeding isn’t really essential, especially if the container potting mix is fresh, but a fortnightly tomato feed (try this organic tomato feed by Espoma, available at Walmart) will keep container plants blooming for longer.

And, finally, don’t forget about deadheading. Spending five minutes a week snipping and deadheading salvia stems will help to encourage a second flush, sometimes lasting right into the fall if the weather plays ball.

Best salvia varieties for pots

There are so many different types of salvias, you are bound to find a color and style to match your yard.

For a compact option, try the 'New Dimension' pink-blooming meadow sage, which is available as starter plants at Walmart.

Growing no taller than 12 inches, this low-growing perennial is ideal for balconies and small patio pots.

Alternatively, for a taller variety, try this 'Black & Blue' variety, with live plants available from Burpee. With mauve blooms, this unusual option will look perfect in larger pots, growing up to four feet tall.

Or, if you are after a red-flowering option, try the pineapple sage, with live plants available from Amazon.

With crimson trumpet flowers, hummingbirds and other pollinators will adore this hot variety when planted in pots on the patio.

FAQs

Are salvias fully hardy during winter?

In my experience, there is no need to winterize salvias. Indeed, many species can survive done to zone 3, and will tolerate snow, frost and rain just fine during the winter months.

Salvia nemorosa, for example, can be grown as far north as zone 4, and shouldn't need any protection during December and January. However, if you are worried, it can help to bundle and group pots together near the home, to keep them slightly more sheltered.

There are around 50 species of Salvia that are native plants of North America. Indeed, the autumn sage, or Salvia greggii, is found growing in parts of Texas, and it is from this species that the infamous 'Hot Lips' varieties have been bred.

If red and white flowers are your thing, you can find Salvia 'Hot Lips' live plants sold online via Amazon.

For another native option to try in your yard, see our guide on how to grow Texas sage. While not a true sage, this North American species is another long-flowering plant that will fill borders with color.

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Millions of gardeners grow strawberries worldwide, and people plant them in the ground, raised beds, or containers every year in droves. If you are an impatient gardener, you may count the days till you can snack on them. But, in reality, should you harvest strawberries the first year?

I have grown strawberries for many years, and planted lots of strawberry plants in kitchen gardens and my plots at home. I have also been known to pick strawberries the first year I planted them. So, is it advisable to harvest strawberries in the first year, or is it more beneficial for the plants to be patient? Let's take a look.

Should you pick strawberries the first year?

A very popular method of growing strawberries is to plant the fruit in spring after the risk of frost and when the soil becomes workable. You can also plant strawberries in early fall to overwinter, which can give you an earlier harvest next year.

You can choose from planting bare-root strawberries, which are commonly available during the plant’s dormant season, or container-grown types commonly seen in garden centers or nurseries.

For the best fruiting and larger strawberries, choosing the right planting spot is essential. Strawberries need a sunny location with six to eight hours of sunlight each day and a fertile, well-draining soil type.

Whether that spot is in the ground, on a raised bed, or in a container filled with rich soil for container gardening, poor soil conditions or waterlogging will seriously affect the harvest.

Strawberry plants can start flowering around 6-8 weeks after planting, with the first fruits potentially appearing 3-4 weeks later.

When it comes to these first blooms, Dick Zondag, the former president and current Garden Doctor for Jung Seed, recommends: ‘The first couple of clusters need to be removed to allow the plants to establish.’

Over the following months, whether you harvest strawberries the first year should depend on the types of strawberry plants you are growing.

June-bearing strawberries produce one crop a year, while ever-bearing types produce two crops (one in summer and one in early fall), and day-neutral strawberries can fruit throughout the season.

When growing June-bearing strawberries, it is preferable to remove all the flowers in the first year. This helps the plant establish and produce stronger crops the following year.

However, after removing the early flowers of ever-bearing and day-neutral types, you can harvest fruits later in the season.

It should be noted that you will only get a small harvest of strawberries in the first year. However, that shouldn’t be concerning. The main focus is on establishing the plants so they will give larger yields in the subsequent years.

You should also remove strawberry runners in the first year, to ensure plants get strong ahead of them reaching their peak. Katie Brines from Stark Bro's says: ‘Strawberry plants are usually most productive in their second and third years.

‘After that, it's beneficial to rejuvenate your patch by replacing old plants with new runners to maintain vigor and fruit size.’

Fertilizing strawberries helps plants establish and develop healthily. A dose of balanced fertilizer in spring, once the plants are actively growing after planting, will ensure the plant puts down strong roots and improve your chances of a small harvest in the first year.

When you harvest strawberries the first year, and for every year going forward, picking them properly is vital, as the fruits are very delicate and can bruise easily.

When it comes to how to pick strawberries, carefully cut the stem with garden snips, scissors, or pruning shears, or pinch the stem with your fingers.

Do not just pull on the stem; this is a harvesting mistake that risks pulling the entire plant from the ground. This is especially risky during the first year, when the plant may not have put down fully established roots.

As you'll know if you love to grow hydrangeas, at this time of year the waiting finally comes to an end, and the beloved Annabelle hydrangea erupts into life with its enormous white inflorescences that emerge in great plumes amidst glowing green foliage, and flowers profusely all summer long.

One of the best hydrangea varieties for its striking mop heads, many of us can get rather competitive with the size and vigour of our Annabelle hydrangeas. Happily, there are several tried and tested methods to maximise the potential of Annabelle hydrangeas, and we are going to lift the lid on some of the best-kept secrets. Here's how to make sure your Annabelles have their best year ever, and get enormous clouds of white blooms all summer long

1. Water properly

If you know a thing or two about hydrangeas, then it will come as no surprise that watering hydrangeas thoroughly is of utmost importance. But even if you know how to water plants, you may find that you simply aren’t cutting it for your beloved Annabelles.

‘Hydrangeas have very shallow roots and large, moisture-loving leaves,’ explains gardening and preserving coach Robin Phelps. So it is vital that they are thoroughly quenched and never, ever become thirsty.

'The best thing to do is stick your finger into the soil and see if it is damp at the second knuckle,’ explains hydrangea expert Lorraine Bellato. ‘If it is, walk away. If not, irrigate until you reach that point.’

If you are serious about taking steps to make your Annabelle hydrangea flowers so enormous they make passersby green with envy, it is well worth investing in an automatic watering system, like this irrigation timer available at Amazon. Even if you think you are watering enough, most Annabelle hydrangeas do an awful lot more drinking than you might imagine.

2. Compost is your new best friend

There is one particular trick that, once implemented, will make you feel as though you hold the key to the secret behind gargantuan Annabelle hydrangeas.

'Amend the soil where you have your hydrangea by adding compost,' explains Lorraine. 'The microbes in compost help the hydrangea Annabelle to use nutrients far better and retain moisture for longer in between waterings.'

After years of growing beautiful Annabelles, last year I added a rich homemade compost, and when it came to flowering, the size of the merengue-like flower heads was simply bewildering. Family, friends, and neighbours all remarked at how astonishing they were, and I felt like I had finally unlocked their potential, and up till then, they had only flirted with the idea of blooming.

Knowing how to make compost that your Annabelle's will thrive on is refreshingly easy. As long as you have a compost bin with ventilation and drainage, like this compost bin available at Amazon, and lots of lovely garden and kitchen scraps, you are already there.

If you're inclined to skip this step because composting sounds difficult or hard work, it is, somewhat surprisingly, none of those things. It will be the difference between good and superb Annabelle hydrangea performance this summer.

3. Don't let them burn in the sun

This particular tip is for the die-hard Annabelle hydrangea enthusiasts that want to go that extra mile to ensure prolific and beguilingly large blooms this summer.

'Make sure your Annabelle hydrangeas can get relief from the sun,' explains Lorraine. 'Part shade is the best light condition for them.' Indeed, the full-throttle blazing heat from full sun can do much more harm than good for these sensitive plants.

If your hydrangeas receive intense midday sun, and relocating your plants is not an option, it is well worth providing man-made shade.

'Use a shade cloth, patio umbrellas, or even old bedsheets to protect delicate Annabelle hydrangeas from peak sun,' says Robin.

A shade canopy, like this sun block shade cloth available at Amazon, will prevent burning and leaf scorch (which stunts growth) and will protect your Annabelles from soil compaction and crusting, which makes water absorption much more of a battle.

4. Provide support

The dreaded words us Annabelle lovers loathe to hear: 'But they have such weak stems.' Indeed, this particular type of hydrangea can throw itself rather dramatically to the ground at the lightest touch of wind or rain, or if its flowers simply become too heavy.

'Just about everything is great about Annabelle,' says Lorraine. 'She flowers on new wood, which means you don't have to worry about winter cold or deer browse. She is a native and, as such, is easy to grow in terms of cultural conditions, and her white flowers aren't so stark a white as to shock your appreciation of the rest of the garden. The one and only drawback is her weak stems.'

If this recurring issue is a dealbreaker for you, then it is worth investing in the 'Incrediball' hydrangea, which is a cultivar of Annabelle but has been improved to have far more robust stems. They have enormous mophead blooms that have to be seen to be believed.

Try these Incrediball hydrangeas available at Nature Hills, which have strong stems, specifically bred not to flop.

But if, like me, you are sticking with your good old-fashioned (and floppy) hydrangea Annabelle, I have always found it is quite simple to keep them upright and tidy with simple plant supports. Although it has to be said, when the early September rain starts, I have been known to stand over by hydrangeas with an umbrella.

5. Use rose food

'Rose food is terrific for Annabelle hydrangea as it has a range of nutrients that the plant can use.' explains Lorraine.

'Annabelle is a native plant, so fertilizer is a bonus. Stay away from 'balanced' fertilizers like 10-10-10. No plant uses nutrients in the same amount, and using these balanced formulas just contributes to run-off and pollution. Go with rose food instead.'

Rose food, like this organic rose food from Burpee, will provide slow-release nutrients that will continue to feed your Annabelles for up to three months.

Your Annabelle Hydrangeas Summer Wishlist

Of course, how much of a spectacle your Annabelle hydrangeas are come summer owes a lot to how you pruned them in the winter.

Knowing how to prune Annabelle hydrangeas is crucial. 'Please do not ever cut them to the ground,' warns Lorraine. 'The stems will never be strong enough to hold up those delicious flowers. Leave a few old stems on the plant each spring (about one-third) so you can create a support structure for the new stems that will bear the flowers.'

Knowing how to care for fuchsias is refreshingly straightforward. They relish being in the sunshine, but happily tolerate dappled shade, and demand very little attention, yet flower profusely. The seasonal range within the species stretches from May to November, and they perform year after year and want for nothing, bar a little pruning and watering.

It's worth bearing in mind, though, that fuchsias are cut-and-come-again flowers, so you can encourage more and more of these darling dangling flowers by deadheading regularly. Dead flowers often fall off on their own, but deadheading will help your fuchsia plant produce a flurry of flowers. It's just a bonus that the dainty and oh-so-pretty flowers can be used to decorate cakes or scattered on top of summer salads. Here's our guide on how to deadhead your plant to ensure it is a prolific bloomer all season long.

Is it essential to deadhead a fuchsia?

In short, no, it is not crucial that you deadhead a fuchsia, and the long-term health of your fuchsia plant won't be affected if you don't. But, if you don't deadhead fuchsia, you are missing out on a non-stop floral display all season long and your display is likely to be under-par compared to a deadheadded fuschia.

You will need to prune hardy fuchsia at the beginning of the season (once all risk of frosts has passed), but once you have done so, they can be left very much to their own devices throughout spring, summer, and fall, with a little watering and feeding as you go.

However, if you want to maximise the flowering potential of your fuchsia, it is wise to deadhead all the spent flowers throughout the summer, which takes just seconds, and your plant will reward you with a profusion of new flowers.

When fuchsia flowers drop off naturally, they leave behind seed pods. These minute seed pods tend to inhibit the growth of new flowers from that spot. These seed pods don't stop the flowering on all fuchsia varieties, but on the whole, it tends to stop, or at the very least, slow down the production of new flowers.

With this in mind, it is worth removing both the flower and the seed pod to allow for new blooms to appear.

You will notice, when you remove both the spent flower and the seed pod, that because your fuchsia doesn't put all of its energy into ripening the seed pod (to reproduce), it instead produces new flowers, and in abundance. So, whilst it is not vital to deadhead, it is important if you want a long season of interest.

When to deadhead a fuchsia?

When your fuchsia is flowering, it is worth checking it for spent flowers. When the pretty flowers begin to wilt and brown, this means they are coming to the end of their life. At this point, it is well worth removing them. This can just be something you check briefly every few days as you wander around the garden.

Depending on the species of fuchsia you own, the flowering time will vary. Start by checking for spent flowers every day, and you might find you only need to check once every few weeks.

The idea is to deadhead the flowers before they drop to the ground themselves. Deadheading only needs to be done when the plant is in flower.

How to deadhead a fuchsia?

Before you start, be sure to clean your scissors. Forgetting to clean scissors or secateurs is one of the most common deadheading mistakes and is a surefire way to transfer disease around your garden plants. It might seem fussy, but it's a worthwhile step.

Use your scissors to remove the flower, being sure to also remove the seed pod. The seed pod is easy to spot; it's a small green pod attached to the flower.

Trace the flower's pedicle back to the stem (the pedicle is the smaller growth emerging from the stem, on which the flower hangs its head) and cut here. Don't cut the stem itself, as the plant wants to produce flowers from this stem, so don't cut back too hard.

In a few days, you will spy new growth in this spot. It is worth pinching out the growing tips when they're quite young so you get a strong, bushy plant.

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For your fuchsias to flourish, it's worth getting to grips with how to fertilize fuchsias and, if you have tender fuchsias, it is particularly vital to understand how to overwinter fuchsias when the temperatures plummet at the end of the season.

On the whole, though, fuchsias are wonderfully reliable plants with very few complaints. Try freezing the deadheaded fuchsia flowers in ice cubes for summer cocktails, or adding them as a pretty detail to desserts this alfresco dining season!

Ninebark shrubs can reach up to ten feet tall and six feet wide, depending on the variety. They are fast-growing, so regular pruning ensures any ninebark shrub remains healthy and vigorous. As they mature, older specimens can be selectively pruned for the best displays, or you can even rejuvenate neglected ninebark to look good again.

If you grow ninebark and want to learn more about pruning, this guide covers all you need to know. We deep-dive into when and how to prune ninebark shrubs, with expert tips so you can confidently prune and have healthy, thriving plants.

Do you need to prune ninebark?

Multi-stemmed flowering shrubs like ninebark often benefit from regular light pruning, which keeps them attractive and in good health. Ideally, it means trimming annually or at least every other year.

However, how often you prune your ninebark may depend on how you grow it.

Stacey Hirvela, experienced gardener and co-host of Gardening Simplified, claims that a ninebark bush can get ‘little pruning’ and still look great.

‘I prefer them unpruned,’ she admits. ‘Their long branches start to arch over gracefully, but if they are pruned, they look more upright. But people grow ninebark as a trimmed hedge, or simply trim it every year to keep it neater and less wild-feeling.’

Alternatively, Nikki Bruner from Perfect Plants Nursery adopts the latter approach, saying: ‘I recommend annual maintenance to thin out older branches and improve air circulation.’

When to prune ninebark

Whether you do little or regular trimming, understanding the correct time to prune ninebark ensures your shrubs remain healthy and attractive. It helps you avoid making any shrub pruning mistakes that you’ll live to regret.

The best time to prune ninebark is after it has finished flowering, in late spring or early summer. This allows lots of time for the plant to develop new buds for next year’s display.

Trimming in early spring is possible, but it will result in the removal of flower buds, affecting the display for that season. For example, if you are renovating an older ninebark and don’t mind missing out on a year of flowers, then late winter or early spring is an ideal window to prune.

Don’t leave post-flowering trimming too long, though. Cutting back shrubs from late summer onwards is risky because it encourages a late flush of growth that is likely to get damaged by cold winter temperatures.

How to prune ninebark

‘Ninebark shrubs typically need light to moderate pruning to maintain their shape and encourage healthy growth,’ claims Nikki Bruner. And this can be easily achieved through regular trimming with common pruning tools, such as a pair of clean and sharp pruning shears or loppers.

The first step to prune ninebark is to assess the shrub and remove any dead, diseased, or damaged branches completely. Also, look for any branches that are crossing and remove them. Crossing branches rub together and create entry points for pests and diseases.

Then, look for overcrowded areas of growth and thin out the weaker shoots. This helps improve air circulation and light penetration into the shrub, which keeps it healthy and avoids diseases such as powdery mildew.

Once spindly growth is removed, focus on the form. Lightly shape the shrub to get the look you want, ensuring to always trim back to a branchlet or set of leaves, and regularly take a step back to assess the appearance.

Stacey Hirvela recommends an extra pruning stage for mature ninebark shrubs. She says: ‘Older specimens (say 5-7+ years) will benefit from their oldest wood being removed every couple of years to ensure that all the growth is vigorous and productive.’

To do so, cut back up to a third of the oldest wood to ground level. This stimulates new, more vigorous growth that will flower better in the years to come.

Ninebark can tolerate harder pruning, but observe the one-third pruning rule and don’t get carried away when doing selective rather than rejuvenate pruning.

Can you hard prune ninebark?

‘Yes, ninebark shrubs can tolerate hard pruning,’ says Nikki Bruner from Perfect Plants Nursery. ‘It's common to do this to rejuvenate the plant and restore overgrowth or leggy growth.’

If you wish to rejuvenate an older shrub and hard prune ninebark, it is best to trim in late winter or early spring. To do so, use a pair of loppers and cut back all the stems to 4-6 inches from the base.

This pruning technique sacrifices a year of blooms, but will stimulate new growth and reward you with a smaller, nicer-looking shrub.

However, it is not recommended to do this with all spring-flowering shrubs. For example, witch hazel is a shrub to never hard prune, as it can get extremely stressed and die from being cut back to ground level.

Always do research and check whether hard pruning is a pruning mistake or not for any particular shrubs.

FAQs

Can I prune ninebark in the fall?

No, it is not advisable to prune ninebark in the fall. The new growth that appears post-pruning is vulnerable to frost damage in winter and can leave the shrub more susceptible to pests and diseases. The ideal time to prune ninebark is in late spring or early summer after flowering, though you can trim in early spring too.

Ninebark is among the best shrubs or trees with attractive bark, and such plants make intriguing additions to any garden. If you are after other statement plants that will impress with distinctive bark, this guide to trees with unusual bark offers 10 great options to consider.

While you may assume indoor plants have to stay inside all year round, they can actually benefit from getting some fresh air when outdoor conditions allow for it. It only makes sense, of course, as houseplants have native outdoor habitats they originate from. These habitats tend to be more tropical, hence they have become popular houseplants to grow indoors protected from colder climes.

This means not all houseplants will be able to grow outdoors in every region all year round. But, there is a point in the year when you can move houseplants outdoors for summer. Here are our top five.

5 easy houseplants to grow outdoors in summer

Introducing houseplants to the yard is a great way to achieve a tropical garden full of luscious foliage. Your plants will also appreciate fresh air, sunlight exposure, and indoor flowering plants may get some visitors from pollinators outdoors.

But, you should always be aware of what can grow in your US hardiness zone before growing the following plants in your yard. Here, experts share tips on growing them outdoors to help you out:

1. Boston fern

• Hardiness for permanent outdoor position: US hardiness zone 9 to zone 11
• Temperature tolerance: 60-75°F

If you love indoor ferns, you'll be pleased to know you can grow Boston fern outdoors. They are one of the easiest houseplants to grow outdoors for impactful foliage, with their luscious fronds growing well in a hanging basket, container, or bed. This Boston fern from The Sill actually comes in a hanging basket, ready for displaying outdoors.

'Boston ferns thrive on humidity, so it is in its glory being outside for the summer months,' says houseplant expert and garden designer Lee Miller.

'Bring Boston fern outdoors when the night time temperatures stay consistently above 50 degrees. You should place it in a shaded location, such as under a porch canopy to prevent leaf scorch to its beautiful foliage and water frequently to keep the soil moist, but not wet,' Lee advises.

Just like caring for Boston fern indoors, it's wise to keep humidity levels up for your Boston fern outdoors. For example, you could regularly use this plant mister from Amazon, or place your fern among other plants to raise humidity levels.

Make sure to prevent pests when moving any houseplants back indoors. This includes checking leaves, hosing down your plant, and isolating it from other houseplants for a little while.

2. Bird of paradise

• Hardiness for permanent outdoor position: US hardiness zone 10 to zone 12
• Temperature tolerance: 24-80°F

One of the most popular tropical indoor plants is bird of paradise, or Strelitzia reginae, a beautiful plant with glossy paddle-shaped leaves and striking orange blooms that give it its name.

'They have big leaves, so keep them out of the wind, as it may shred them,' warns Lisa Eldred Steinkopf, houseplant expert at The Houseplant Guru.

You can grow bird of paradise in pots or borders. Just make sure to choose a full sun position and water regularly so they don't dry out entirely. Although, you should avoid overwatering and waterlogging the soil.

To help your bird of paradise flower and put on a magnificent display for summer, try using this bird of paradise fertilizer from Amazon. Only feed your bird of paradise every three weeks throughout spring and summer to avoid fertilizing mistakes that could burn their roots.

Find a bird of paradise plant from The Sill.

3. Pothos

• Hardiness for permanent outdoor position: US hardiness zone 10 to zone 12
• Temperature tolerance: 50-90°F

For a vining option, perhaps for a plant to grow up a pergola or to add some greenery to your outdoor living room for summer hosting, consider growing a pothos outdoors.

'Pothos enjoys bright but indirect lighting and protection from winds. It can be beautifully displayed as a potted or hanging plant in a protected area such as under a porch,' Lee says.

There are also lots of pothos varieties to choose from, so you can opt for one that suits your backyard aesthetic. For example, choose the classic golden pothos (from Walmart) or neon pothos (from Walmart) for a brighter look.

'To gradually introduce it back into its indoor home, place in a more shaded location while outdoors for a few days to acclimate it,' Lee suggests.

4. Cacti and succulents

• Hardiness for permanent outdoor position: Varies
• Temperature tolerance: Varies

Landscaping with succulents and cacti is a great way to add some architectural interest to your yard, and it's easier to grow these desert plants outdoors than you might assume.

'They love being outside in the summer. They can be placed in full sun if they are acclimated to that situation,' says Lisa. 'They can be kept outside into the fall and can tolerate colder temperatures than most houseplants,' she adds.

Of course, temperature tolerance will vary between types of succulents and cacti, but they generally can tolerate as cool as 40°F. Ice plants (Delosperma) are a succulent that can be grown across US hardiness zone 5 to zone 9, for example, and you can buy an ice plant from Walmart.

Some key care tips for growing succulents and cacti outdoors include choosing a sunny position and not overwatering – these plants store water and thrive with a bit of drought.

5. Bromeliads

• Hardiness for permanent outdoor position: US hardiness zone 10 to zone 12
• Temperature tolerance: 45-85°F 

Bromeliads are some of the most vibrant tropical plants that are loved as houseplants for their unique blooms. They have an unusual growing habit that makes them a beautiful addition to outdoor spaces:

Bromeliads are epiphytes in their native habitats, living on trees and other objects. They can take a lot of sun, but they need to be acclimated first,' Lisa says.

To acclimatize a bromeliad to your yard, start by placing them in filtered light and gradually increase sunlight exposure. You should then continue providing optimal bromeliad care.

'You can hang mounted bromeliads in your trees,' Lisa notes. To do this, use a tree fern slab (like this one from Amazon) to mount your bromeliad to.

These beautiful plants also come in wide range of colors, ideal for many different garden color schemes. For example, Bromeliad Antonio Pink from The Sill, or Bromeliad Red Guzmania Hope from The Sill.

FAQs

Can you grow houseplants in a greenhouse?

Yes, you can grow houseplants in a greenhouse and this is a great way to add some greenery if you have a seating area for relaxing in your greenhouse. This environment also provides sufficient warmth and light for houseplant propagation. Something to be aware of, however, is how warm your greenhouse gets.

It could become too hot and dehydrate your plants, or scorch their leaves. To prevent this happening, keep on top of watering and make sure to open doors and windows to provide airflow and ventilation for your houseplants. This will also help keep pests and diseases at bay.

There's no denying the easiest houseplants to grow outdoors will bring a touch of the tropics to your yard for the warmest season of the year, but it's key not to leave them in your yard too long into fall – it could kill them off as temperatures drop again.

Likewise, don't forget to keep on top of care while growing them in your yard, including continuing to avoid common indoor plant mistakes.

I’ve nurtured Japanese maples in many gardens where I have worked as a professional gardener, and whether grown in pots or sprawling borders, mulching during late spring and early summer can pay dividends. Believe me, a chunky, two-to-four-inch layer applied in June can really make the difference between lush, green leaves or a brown, crispy canopy.

So, if you want your Japanese maple trees to look their best this year, even when the searing sun is at its most cruel in July and August, mulching is essential. Here, I share everything I know after a decade working in public and private gardens.

Caring for Japanese maple trees in summer

Let's face it, as a season, summer can be hard work for plants. Reports of scorching heat and extended drought are not what we gardeners like to see when we check the weather.

Woodland plants in particular, including all varieties of Japanese maples, can struggle during June, July, August and September, the months when shade is a luxury and moisture hard to come by.

For this reason, I highly recommend a small spot of mulching, which can really help these statement shrubs and trees to survive challenging seasonal shifts in every US hardiness zone.

Mulching Japanese maples

Mulching Japanese maples need not be complicated, but, in my experience, adding this simple task to your summer gardening checklist will really help your plants make it through tricky summer weather.

To get started, take some time to do a spot of weeding. This applies whether you are growing Japanese maples in pots or borders.

There is no need to poke or hack at the root ball... just a quick speed-weed will do, gently teasing any dandelions or clover clumps that might be growing around the base.

Then, deep watering will go a long way to ensuring success. Use a hose on a slow setting for larger trees, or a full watering can or two for pot-grown specimens.

Watering at this stage is important, and ensuring the ground is moist before you mulch will help to seal moisture in the soil once your thick layer is applied.

Following this, you can get mulching. There are not really any rules to follow here, really, just shovel your mulch from the wheelbarrow, rake it out evenly to form a two-to-four-inch layer, and keep a small gap from the base of the trunk.

In terms of what to use, there are many different types of mulch to choose from, and any leaf mold or homemade compost will get the job done.

If you are in the market to buy mulch, I would also suggest something like this organic wood mulch from Back to the Roots, sold via Amazon.

Once you have finished mulching, it is a good idea to fertilize Japanese maples, too.

Use something like this organic tree feed from Espoma, available at Amazon, but be sure to follow the instructions on the packaging, and stop feeding before the end of summer.

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Of course, some extra care is required when learning how to grow clove trees in pots, largely because this plant of the tropics does require summer humidity and winter protection. However, if you can get the growing conditions just right, this powerhouse plant more than earns its spot on your patio. Not only does it look good, but it will also serve as a natural way to deter mosquitoes, which detest an essential oil that the plant produces.

So, if you are looking to pest-proof your patio this year, but want to keep chemicals out of the yard, consider growing the clove tree, considered one of the best mosquito-repellent plants. Here, I share how to get started with this tropical species and keep blood-sucking pests at bay, without a citronella candle in sight.

Why potted clove trees are a really good idea

Seeking out natural pest control methods is always preferable to using chemicals to combat midges, mosquitoes and flies.

Sure, insects might be annoying, and no one wants to be covered in inflamed, itchy bites (the gardener's curse), but these so-called pests are actually a sign of a healthy ecosystem, and often attract hungry birds.

In fast, mosquito-dense areas will prove to be a draw during the hummingbird migration. The only catch? You would need many hundreds of birds in your yard to make a dent in the mosquito population.

That's why learning how to grow clove trees in pots is a smart idea to deter these biting insects from seating areas during summer, while not harming biodiversity or using harsh sprays.

It is not a foolproof solution, but growing this spice tree might just help to keep bites to a minimum while also making your patio smell heavenly.

How to grow clove trees in pots

Clove trees might be best known as a spice cupboard essential, but they’re also surprisingly good patio plants.

Not only do these evergreen trees have attractive, elongated, waxy leaves, but they are also remarkably fragrant. And, it is this characteristic, a result of the high concentration of eugenol oil in the plant, that helps to repel mosquitoes.

While these are tropical plants, doing best in US hardiness zone 9 and zone 10, they can be coaxed to grow in containers in cooler, northern zones too, especially if you have a sheltered patio for the summertime, and a fall and winter protection plan in place.

Once you have sourced a clove tree (seek out a specialized local nursery that deals in tropical species), you are ready to get started.

Plant your statement tree in a medium to large-sized container, something around 15 to 18 inches deep and wide should do the job.

I like the look of this large, lightweight terracotta-effect planter, made by Crescent Garden and sold via Wayfair.

Fill your pot with a good quality, moisture-retentive potting mix, something like this organic potting soil by Whitney Farms, available via Walmart, mixing in some perlite or horticultural grit to improve drainage.

Be sure to firm your tree down, keeping the level of the plastic container the same in your new patio pot, so the tree is not sitting too low or too high.

Position it in a sunny, sheltered spot where it will enjoy plenty of sunshine, although in southern locations, some afternoon shade is no bad thing.

Ongoing care for clove trees in pots

After planting your clove tree, complete a spot of deep watering. Following this, sticking to a regular watering schedule is a good idea; soaking your pots once every week during cool spring weather, or every day when the temperature is high in summer.

Importantly, clove trees thrive in humid environments, so grouping pots together can help to increase humidity for patio plants.

You can also water the floor at the base of your pots, as well as mist the plant very early in the morning or late at night, using something like this plant mister spray bottle from Amazon.

Mulching is also a good idea, both in borders and in pots, which can help to reduce watering and improve the fertility of the soil. This cow manure sold via Amazon will get the job done, or any other homemade compost is a good option.

While the clove tree can grow up to 15 to 30 feet tall and wide, its growth will be much reduced in pots.

Pruning, therefore, won't be necessary for several years, as clove trees are very slow-growing. However, if you need to, you can simply snip any wayward stems during early spring.

When the temperature begins to drop towards the end of summer, it is time to protect your clove tree.

While this will vary from zone to zone, in general, you will want to move your pot indoors or to a greenhouse anytime from October, ensuring that it does not experience any temperatures below 50 degrees Fahrenheit.

There, the clove tree will remain until springtime, when all risk of frost has passed.

FAQs

Can I grow a clove tree indoors year-round?

Yes, you can try growing clove trees as indoor plants. Be sure to place containers in a bright location with plenty of indirect sunlight. You will also want a relatively consistent temperature, ranging from 65 to 80 degrees Fahrenheit. And, to increase humidity, opt for a pebble tray for plants, while also grouping house plants together.

You will want to repot your clove tree every three years, carefully lifting it out of its container in spring and moving it to a slightly bigger pot with new soil.

While this can be tricky (and might require a second pair of hands for larger specimens), it will undoubtedly help to keep plants in good health.

For more pest-control inspiration, see our guide on using marigolds in a vegetable garden, which can help to lure aphids and hungry insects away from your prized blooms.

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Worm casts, or worm castings, on lawns result from earthworms and are commonly seen on spring or fall mornings. While they are beneficial, they can also be a nuisance. If you take pride in your lawn care and having pristine grass, these heaps may be undesirable.

So, what should you do about worm casts on lawns? To answer this, I spoke to some lawn experts who revealed the positives that come from worm casts on lawns and their recommendations for the easiest way to deal with them to keep your grass healthy.

What are worm casts on lawns?

Worm casts are small, spiral heaps of waste soil that appear on the surface of the lawn. They are caused by certain species of earthworms that live in the soil but come to the surface to deposit their waste.

The earthworms eat thatch and leaf litter in the grass and break it down. Many species will deposit this material underground, but some do it at the surface, leaving the distinctive strings of sludgy material.

'Worm casts are just little mounds of soil left behind after earthworms do their thing underground,' says Taylor Olberding, co-founder of Heroes Lawn Care. 'In most cases, they're not doing real harm, more of a nuisance, especially if you're aiming for that immaculate green carpet look.'

Worm casts are commonly left during the night, and they are most often seen in spring and fall after spells of wet weather. The sight of worm casts on lawns is perfectly normal, but they can be an inconvenience.

Are worm casts bad for lawns?

No, the resounding response from the experts is that worm casts on lawns are not a bad thing.

They can be a nuisance, as mentioned earlier, though how much so will depend on the type of lawn you want. However, there are real positives that come from having such evident signs of earthworm activity in your lawn.

Ryan Farley, the CEO of LawnStarter, claims that worm casts on lawns shouldn’t be seen as a problem whatsoever when people spot them on their grass at home. So, don’t think of worm casts as an issue when aspiring for a green and thick lawn.

'I'd regard them as a positive sign and can provide great natural fertilizer for your soil,' he adds. 'Worm casts are essentially just waste products from earthworms, and earthworms in your soil are a great sign that things are working as they should.'

That sentiment is echoed by Chrissie Handley from Online Turf, who speaks highly of the benefits worms bring to soil and grass health.

She says: 'Worms can enrich the soil, aerate the soil, relieve compaction and also decompose thatch, so when compared to small mounds of soil that are on your lawn, the benefits worms provide outweigh the negatives of the unsightly casts.'

Finally, Steve Peeler, an agronomist with Simple Lawn Solutions, reckons that worm castings cause more of a visual issue on low-cut turfgrass such as golf courses and athletic fields, adding: 'There is not so much of a problem on home lawns unless maintaining the turf at a very low height of cut.'

Expert tips for dealing with worm casts on lawns

Worm casts can impact the look of your lawn, and potentially the health of your lawn if they are not managed properly. What do the experts recommend you do with worm casts on lawns, leave them in place or act to get rid?

Chrissie Handley says it is better to deal with them than just leave worm casts on lawns untouched.

'If you leave worm casts on the lawn, they can smear into your grass when mowing, making them look even more unsightly,' she claims. 'Smeared casts can prevent airflow to the grass and ground, making it more liable for weed growth.'

It is not just mowing that risks smearing the worm casts over the surface. Just walking on them can do the same, and the flattened castings can create bare spots in the grass that become an ideal environment for lawn weeds to germinate, especially in spring.

What is the best time and way to remove worm casts on lawns? Thankfully, it is quick and simple to eliminate worm casts and keep lawns healthy, using everyday household or garden tools.

'I wait until they've dried out a bit, usually mid-morning is perfect, and then lightly brush them off with a stiff broom or the back of a rake,' says Taylor Olberding. 'That way, you're not damaging the grass.'

It is best to wait until the mounds are dry, so that they crumble easily and mix into the ground rather than smear over the surface of the grass.

'Some people ask about worm suppressants, but personally, I'd steer away unless you're dealing with an extreme situation,' adds Taylor.

You can get products that will deter earthworms from lawns. However, as mentioned earlier, earthworms offer many positives to lawn and soil health, so it is not recommended to use such products as they can negatively affect the garden’s natural ecosystem.

To reduce earthworm activity in the soil, without eradicating them, and limit the amount of worm casts, you can collect grass clippings and consider when and how long you water your lawn.

Steve Peeler advises: 'Controlling soil moisture is key to controlling worm cast on home lawns. Reduce irrigation frequency, improve drainage, and avoid night-time irrigation.'

FAQs

What can I put on my lawn to get rid of worms?

Earthworms are less plentiful in acidic soils. There are ways you can lower the pH of the soil and make the soil more acidic, including adding sulfur or using fertilizers with aluminum or iron sulfate.

Worms are very beneficial in a garden, and even away from your soil, they can be utilized for their natural ability to turn waste into useful material.

When you use a wormery for compost, you put in kitchen waste, and the worms convert it into nutrient-rich compost to add to beds, borders, and pots.

You can make a wormery or buy one such as this three-tray worm composter at Amazon to make usable compost in under three months.

There are plenty of similarities between these two plants – both are aromatic flowering perennials from the Nepeta genus, or mint family. Yet there are some subtle differences between their appearance and properties. How to grow catmint and how to grow catnip also varies, which may make you err towards planting one over the other.

We've asked horticultural and gardening experts to explain what distinguishes these plants, so you can decide which is best for your flower beds, your feline friends – or to deter unwanted visitors in your yard.

Catmint vs catnip – what is the difference?

If you are a cat owner and want to keep your pets happy, catnip is a good choice, while keen gardeners who are more interested in aesthetics and a plant's color and form – and don't want the neighborhood's felines hanging out in their yard – may prefer to grow catmint.

'Catmint and catnip are often confused because they both belong to the Nepeta genus in the mint family (Lamiaceae), but they do have some key differences,' explains Tabar Gifford, master gardener and representative, American Meadows.

'Catnip (Nepeta cataria) is best known for containing nepetalactone, the compound that causes euphoric reactions in many cats. This plant has pale green, heart-shaped leaves and small white to lavender flowers.

'However, Catmint, particularly ornamental hybrids like Nepeta × faassenii (‘Walker’s Low’), is more refined in appearance. It forms neat, mounding clumps of silvery-green foliage and produces abundant spikes of lavender-blue flowers. Catmint is rarely as enticing to cats, but its visual appeal in the garden makes it a favorite for gardeners.'

This Walker's Low catmint from Nature Hill's can be grown in zones 4-9 and is adaptable to various soil types.

Differences in growing catmint vs catnip

Both of these Nepeta species are low-maintenance and drought-tolerant plants once established and there are many similarities in the conditions they like. Yet, growing them differs and can help to distinguish them.

'Most cultivars of catmints are sterile and cannot be grown from seed but are readily available as container grown plants,' explains Justine Kandra, horticulturalist, Missouri Botanical Gardens.

'Plant them in spring or fall and water well for the first few weeks after planting, to promote strong root establishment.

'Catnip can be planted the same way, but can also easily be grown from seed. Just start the seeds indoors in a warm spot 6 weeks before the average last frost date.'

Tabar adds, 'Catnip thrives in USDA zones 3–9 and prefers full sun to partial shade. It does well in average, well-drained soil and will tolerate moderate watering. Blooming in mid-to-late summer, catnip also self-seeds prolifically, so gardeners should plan for potential spreading or prune it back before seeds set.

'Catmint generally grows well in zones 3–8 and prefers full sun and dry, well-drained soil, which makes it a good choice for xeriscaping or low-water gardens.'

For a vibrant pop of lavender-blue color, consider this 'Cat's Meow' Catmint from Nature Hills.

How to easily tell these plants apart

As outlined already, the flowers on these plants differ in color and appearance, and this is usually the simplest way to tell them apart (as opposed to comparing the shape and color of the leaves).

Catmint is a common name applied to a number of species and hybrids in the genus Nepeta, so there will be variations in flower color and size. However in general, catmint has a neater, more compact and vibrant look, than catnip.

'The flowers of cultivated catmints are usually violet-blue in color and held in dense, upright spikes or panicles, but other species can have violet-pink or white colored blooms,' continues Justine.

'Most have a clump-forming, rounded to mounding growth habit and can reach up to 3' tall but shorter hybrids are quite popular, some only reaching a little more than foot tall. The leaves and stems of catmints have a minty aroma and are not as attractive to cats as catnip.

'Unlike most of the commonly sold cultivars of catmints, catnip is a spreading plant that can be somewhat aggressive when planted in the ground. It will spread from seed and by underground runners.'

Start this Catnip from Burpee from seed and grow it in a pot if you want to keep it contained. As well as keeping any feline friends entertained, the leaves can be used in tea too.

Generally, you are also more likely to find catmint plants for sale in garden centres, than catnip. Both catnip and catmint can be grown in pots, or directly in the ground. Just ensure they have access to plenty sunshine and well-draining soil, whichever of these aromatic plants you decide to grow.

When it comes to indoor plant care, I've discovered there is so much houseplant soil can tell you about the health of your plants. In particular, if your houseplant soil is loose and well aerated, you can be sure plant roots are living in a healthy environment. Compacted soil, on the the other hand, can provide a too-wet environment for roots and restrict airflow, leading to a whole range of issues.

But don't worry if you haven't been aerating your houseplant soil, it's easy to do and doesn't require expensive tools or a lot of time to do. Here's how you can aerate houseplant soil and avoid making this common indoor plant mistake going forward.

Why you need to aerate houseplant soil

There are a few reasons why you need to aerate houseplant soil: drainage, airflow, and better moisture uptake. All of these factors help keep common houseplant pests and diseases at bay, overall supporting healthy plant growth.

Even if you use the best potting soil for indoor plants – i.e. one with ingredients to provide plenty of air pockets and drainage, like this Miracle-Gro houseplant soil from Amazon – you need to continue making efforts to aerate it.

This is because over time potting mix can become compacted. One giveaway I observe is compacted soil's inability to absorb water, or it absorbs water really slowly. If after watering your houseplants you find a pool of water sits on the surface, it's a sign your soil could do with aerating.

As well as struggling to absorb water, compacted houseplant soil can also trap too much moisture. This means your houseplant is subject to a lack of drainage. The risks here are houseplant root rot, fungal diseases, and even attracting pests like fungus gnats.

When compacted, houseplant roots tend to also be trapped in an air-tight environment where they have little-to-no access to oxygen. Oxygen is needed for roots to break down sugars and turn it into energy to support plant growth.

For these reasons, aerated houseplant soil is essential in promoting longer-lasting houseplant health. In my experience, I also notice much more plant growth when I keep on top of aerating houseplant soil.

How to aerate houseplant soil

The good news is, it's really easy to aerate houseplant soil. All you need is something like a fork or chopstick, or you could use these mini houseplant tools from Amazon which I personally find handy to have in my plant care kit.

Insert your tool of choice into the soil and gently wiggle it to loosen the soil. Make sure to do this all around your houseplant's pot and take care not to damage or tear any roots in the process.

It's as simple as that. This action adds air pockets, much in the same way as aerating a lawn.

The circumstance in which this may not be enough is when your houseplant soil has become too compacted. I usually take this as a sign the plant soil not only needs aerating but also repotting. You can test this by lifting your plant out of its pot and observing if the roots have a lack of room to grow.

This is actually the perfect opportunity to give your houseplants fresh potting soil and maintain aeration going forward. You can even amend your potting soil with perlite (from Amazon) and plant pebbles (from Amazon) to increase drainage and air pockets.

After you aerate houseplant soil, or repot you houseplant with fresh soil, make sure to water well to help houseplant roots settle.

FAQs

Can you add sand to houseplant soil for aeration?

Yes, you can add coarse sand (from Amazon) to houseplant soil as an amendment for improved aeration and drainage. But, it's important not to use too much as this ingredient may not contain all the essential plant nutrients needed for your houseplants.

For this reason, it's best to research the soil type your specific houseplants need and amend the soil accordingly. For example, you might find perlite is a better option over sand.

Keeping houseplant soil aerated is one of the reasons I now make DIY potting mix for some of my plants, choosing the best ingredients to provide aeration. If you're also interested in doing this, check out my guide to making your own orchid potting mix and making your own peace lily potting mix.

It might be because they take a lot of effort to grow, or they’re prone to greedily taking up too much space. Maybe they're pretty but horribly invasive. Or maybe they're just, well, maybe they're just so done by this point.

We spend a lot of time talking about the best perennials – and we have a lot of opinions on the most underrated plants, too – but there are plenty of reasons to challenge your perceptions of gardening, especially if it keeps you from making a mistake in your beloved outdoor space.

12 of the most overrated plants

This is one of those gardening articles that has the potential to get controversial, quickly. You should have heard the buzz of shocked voices when some of the Homes & Gardens team began sharing their thoughts on the most overrated plants.

With that warning in place, then, let's dive on in.

1. Daffodils

Learning how to plant daffodils might be the first chapter of Gardening 101, but Tenielle Jordison, Garden News Writer at Homes & Gardens, has them pegged as one of the most overrated plants, much to the dismay of her colleagues.

'I think they are beautiful, but I also think they can be overused,' she explains, noting that she's speaking specifically about the solid yellow varieties that thrive in USDA hardiness zones 3-9. 'White daffodils, however, always catch my eye.'

It's worth noting that some gardeners also wrinkle their noses up at daffodils because it's important to refrain from cutting them back after they've finished blooming for at least six weeks, which can feel like a very long time when you're staring at withering, browning foliage.

2. Fountain grass

Nobody can deny the drama and texture that comes from planting ornamental grasses, but there are some varieties which experts count among the most overrated plants. Or rather, there's one variety.

'A popular ornamental grass is the fountain grass, Pennisetum alopecuroides, which is generally hardy in USDA zones 5-9,' says Andrew Bunting, VP of Horticulture for the Pennsylvania Horticultural Society and author of The Plant Lovers Guide To Magnolias (available on Amazon).

'However, is a prolific seeder and will quickly overwhelm a garden with its offspring. Instead, plant the native prairie dropseed, Sporobolus heterolepis, which has a similar stature and a popcorn-like fragrance when it flowers,' he suggests.

It's a wallet-friendly swap, as you can pick up 200 Sporobolus Heterolepis Seeds from Walmart for just $3.

3. Peonies

Peonies? One of the most overrated plants? Peonies?! Absolutely, according to Sophia Pouget de St Victor at Homes & Gardens.

'They're undeniably beautiful, but they flower for all of 30 seconds and then they're gone,' she says dismissively of these diva-like plants. And, to be fair, she has a point: their flowers only last for 7-10 days usually. A cut-and-come-again flower they are not.

If you love flouncy blooms, you might be better off planting something like dahlias, which tend to flower all summer long.

Try the Dinnerplate dahlia mix from Walmart for a bountiful buffet of large, colourful flowers.

4. Privet

You might not expect an evergreen shrub to be on a list of the most overrated plants, and yet here we are with the not-so-humble privet.

'The privet hedge, Ligustrum ovalifolium, is one of the most popular of all the plants used for hedging,' says Andrew. 'It grows very quickly and requires regular pruning and maintenance. Worse, it has also become a significant invasive plant.'

Yes, privet is one of those garden bullies which outcompetes native plants for resources and spreads incredibly easily. Thankfully, Andrew says 'it can be replaced with evergreens such as Thuja ‘Green Giant’ or inkberry holly, Ilex glabra'.

5. Hostas

They might be the darling of RHS Chelsea Flower Show year in and year out, but the oh-so-striking hosta has also earned itself a place on our list of most overrated plants.

'Yes, hostas can look good. But often they're covered in holes and go slimy as they die back,' says Gardens Content Editor Drew Swainston, who worked as a professional gardener for many years.

'Hostas are so popular and for very good reason. They grow so well in shade gardens and their foliage is available in many different shades of green. The shoots are even edible and they usually have lilac or white flowers,' adds Ellen Mary Webster, author and professional gardener.

'However, hostas are loved by deer and slugs, plus they need plenty of moisture and will soon wilt in hot sun. So unless they are planted in the perfect place, you might find they are not the plant for your garden.'

It's also worth noting here that hostas are incredibly picky plants; all it takes is the wrong kind of soil, watering conditions, climate, or even just the wrong spot in your garden to send them into a sulk.

With that in mind, then, take care to brush up on hostas care and growing tips before leaning hard into your hosta era.

Or you could try another of our favourite part-shade perennials; something like these hellebores from Walmart could be a good low-maintenance alternative.

6. Burning bush

Another unexpected addition to our list of the most overrated plants? The burning bush or fire bush (Euonymus alatus), which is beloved for its ability to burst into an explosion of riotous color come fall.

'Burning bush is still planted as an ornamental with excellent red fall color. However, it is very invasive and invades local woodlands, displacing native plants,' says Andrew. Instead, he advises you 'plant the native Aronia arbutifolia, red chokeberry, which also has red fall color and attractive red fruits in the fall'.

Hardy in zones 3 - 8, you can pick up red chokeberry seeds easily enough at Walmart (although it might be easier buying a ready-grown plant from a garden centre if you want instant impact).

7. Lupins

We never thought we'd see this garden border favourite on the hit list, but Sophia has branded lupins as one of her most overrated plants.

'They're always demolished by aphids,' she says, noting that these cottage garden staples, which thrive in USDA zones 4-8, often wind up with curled leaves and stunted growth as a result of these pesky garden pests. Powdery mildew, too, can cause them to yellow and brown.

'They also look too rigid and pristine,' she adds, although Rachel Bull, our Head of Gardens, says that it's worth it for the beautiful cut flowers ('You can lean them on a bucket edge once cut to encourage them to form into a more naturalistic shape,' she says).

8. Sea oats

If you're designing a garden from scratch, it's best to think carefully about which grasses you plant – as, yes, yet another has wound up on our list of most overrated plants.

'Sea oats, or Chasmanthium latifolium, was promoted as an attractive native grass, which it is,' says Andrew. 'However, it sets copious amounts of viable seed, which means that a garden is soon taken over by this grass.'

If you'd like another native grass that can be used as a substitute, Andrew recommends the little bluestem or beard grass, Schizachyrium scoparium, which can be grown in USDA zones 3 through 9.

You can pick up a Little Bluestem (Schizachyrium scoparium) in 6.5" Pot at Walmart.

9. Bamboo

While its dense, evergreen leafy appearance makes it an ideal plant for achieving garden privacy ideas, bamboo has earned a place on our list of overrated plants, too.

'Some species of bamboo grows far too quickly and running varieties can even spread quickly underground and pop up in lawns, next door gardens and even between paving,' says Ellen Mary.

'It’s so hard to remove when it’s matured and taken over, in fact if left for too long without removal, it can completely take out other vegetation, creep into waterways and cause damage to homes.'

With that in mind, then, take care to learn how to stop bamboo from spreading before you plant any,

10. Barberry

Barberry (berberis thunbergii) are positively renowned for their foliage, flowers, berries, and sharp spikes, which makes them ideal for hedging. So, why are these fast-growing shrubs so overrated?

'Berberis has been planted for boundary protection and for the colourful flowers, but it is banned or at least restricted in many states because it is invasive, and even gives ticks a home,' warns Ellen Mary.

Be sure, then, to invest in a tick remover kit from Amazon if you're planning on planting one.

11. Boxwood

Once upon a time, boxwood (buxus) was the cornerstone of many gardens; hardy in hardy in USDA zones 5 through 9, the glossy evergreen could frequently be spotted as the backdrop for beds and formal gardens.

Nowadays, though, people are all too aware of boxwood blight, a widespread fungal problem prevalent in more than 30 US states, and the gluttonous box tree moth which arrived in the US in 2021.

Both are perilous to the buxus family, which is why so many gardeners recommend you look to beautiful boxwood alternatives, like yew and Japanese holly, which do the same job and are less prone to pests and diseases.

12. Wisteria

Often considered one of the best climbing plants, wisteria has enjoyed a boom in popularity since Bridgerton first aired on Netflix. That being said, some varieties are best avoided.

'Known for its beautiful lilac and white blooms but non-native wisteria, like Wisteria sinensis and Wisteria floribunda, is very invasive in many states, especially the south,' says Ellen Mary of this overrated plant.

'It can completely take over trees, damage buildings and grow incredibly fast. So it does look beautiful but behind those stunning flowers is one aggressive specimen!'

Take care to, then, to avoid being wooed by those stunning purple blooms, and plant one of our gorgeous native alternatives to invasive wisteria instead.

FAQs

What plants inhibit the growth of other plants?

One of the worst traits of overrated plants? Their unerring ability to inhibit the growth of other plants, which is why liriope spicata is best avoided.

'It's a popular grass-like evergreen groundcover, but it is so aggressive that it will choke out all other perennials,' warns Andrew Bunting of the Pennsylvania Horticultural Society. 'Try instead a more clump-forming type of lilyturf like Liriope muscari.'

Now you know the most overrated plants, it's a good idea to sit back and think hard as to whether you agree with them. Gardening is, after all, entirely subjective – one person's old fashioned flower is another's vintage dream.

Be sure to check out the best flowering ground cover plants if you need a little guidance when it comes to filling your garden borders. Or, if you want to go bigger, consider one of the underrated trees that can make a huge impact.

The East Coast has a cornucopia of edible crops that also look right at home tucked in with your ornamental plantings. Plant some leafy greens among your perennials and your neighbors will be none the wiser. Meanwhile you’ll have fresh and nutritious meals with fewer trips to the store.

What are the edimentals that excel in the East Coast’s varying temperatures and humidity? We have gathered some ideas for you from regional experts on the topic. In the choice between edimentals vs bedding plants, these just may persuade you to turn your garden borders into your own personal farm market.

What exactly is an edimental?

‘An edimental, also called an ornaedible, are plants that provide a food source and ornamental value,’ Diane Blazek, Executive Director of the National Garden Bureau, explains.

She says that in the last few years, NGB has seen an increase in interest in the edimental category from home gardens, so much so that the organization added the term as a search function in its New Plants program.

‘They’re so versatile,’ Blazek says. ‘They can be annuals, perennials, shrubs, herbs and so on. A lot of edibles are now being bred not only for great taste, texture and yield, but breeders are also adding in ornamental aspects, as well as making the plants more compact so they are less rangy and look better in an ornamental setting.’

Annuals for the East

The East Coast has a wide range of USDA hardiness zones, from zone 3 in the mountains of Maine to zone 11 at the tip of Florida. A number of annual edimentals excel in this range, growing and thriving in a short summer season or longer where the weather permits.

Here are some annuals that Blazek recommends as edimentals:

Lemon Balm (Melissa officinalis) hardy in zones 4-9. Its lovely green leaves add texture and fragrance to beds and border.

Basil (Ocimum basilicum), such as Everleaf Emerald Towers, a tall variety for filling in spaces in the garden. Hardy in zones 10-11.

Kale (Brassica oleracea var. sabellica.), hardy in zones 7-10. Its color range of greens and the textural elements of its leaves make it a standout in garden borders and containers.

Swiss Chard (Beta vulgaris var. cicla), hardy in zones 2-8. Blazek recommends the variety ‘Bright Lights’ for its vibrantly colorful stems.

A garden kneeler from QVC will make accessing your planted annual edimentals more comfortable.

More generally, flowers such as nasturtium (Tropaeolum majus, zones 2-11) and calendula (Calendula officinalis, zones 2-11) are often thought of as ornamentals but are delicious in salads and as dessert toppers.

Both are easy to grow from seed. Mizuna (Brassica rapa var. nipposinica) and other lettuces with red, bronze or speckled leaves can add color and texture in gardens without an inkling to their final destination (your plate!).

A long-handled watering wand from Walmart will help you water your edimentals tucked into your garden border.

Perennials for hardy East Coast zones

Some edimentals are meant for the garden border, as a wholesale turnover of a vegetable garden often means taking care not to disturb the workhorse perennials.

Without fail these perennial edimentals have texturally interesting foliage with the bonus that it comes back every year. Some of the more interesting perennial edimentals include:

Chives (Allium schoenoprasum), hardy in zones 3-9. There purple flower heads add fun color to a springtime planting bed.

Asparagus (Asparagus officinalis), hardy in zones 3-8, is valued for its feathery fern-like foliage after harvest season, adding soft structure and vertical interest.

Find live plants, seeds and bare roots of asparagus at Burpee.

Rhubarb (Rheum rhabarbarum), hardy in zones 3-8, is prized for its tart stalks in the kitchen but also boasts bold, architectural leaves and striking red stems in ornamental beds.

Jerusalem artichokes, or sunchokes (Helianthus tuberosus), hardy in zones 3-9, produce cheerful sunflower-like blooms atop tall, leafy stems. The edible part? It’s underground tubers.

Edible shrubs for eastern states

The structural foundation of a garden bed, fence planting or even a patio planting are shrubs. Those shrubs can do double duty by provided food as well as form.

Jordan Williams, communications manager for Star Roses and Plants, says one of the breeding company’s favorite edible ornamental plants is the BerryBux blueberry (Vaccinium corymbosum hybrid, zones 5-8).

‘It looks like a boxwood but has the bonus of producing blueberries,’ she says. ‘Its boxwood-like foliage and compact habit make it perfect for planting as a hedge or in groups. It’s a whimsical alternative to a more traditional garden design.’

Another recommendation from Jordan is a blueberry variety called Peach Sorbet (Vaccinium corymbosum, zones 5-10). ‘It’s so nice planted with annuals or perennials, either in large containers or in a garden,’ she explains.

‘At round 2-ft. tall, it’s a great size to fit between other shrubs. The real magic of this variety as an edimental is that it has tricolored foliage in shades of pink, orange, and emerald-green, and in most climates, it keeps its leaves through winter, turning a rich eggplant-purple.’

Currants are a beautiful addition to a garden border or even a large container. At just 3 ft. tall, currants produce small red, black, white or pink juicy berries, the perfect pick-and-eat treat.

Shears to trim your edimental shrubs are available on Amazon.

One of the perks of using edimentals in your planting beds is that they fill up empty spaces quickly. Sprinkle seeds of leafy greens in spaces left by spring or summer ornamental bulbs and you’ll have an edible filler in a matter of weeks. For ideas on what to crop, check out our guide the seven salad crops to sow in August for an early fall harvest.